Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R

ToofHurts

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Was the Radium coolant tank leaking by the radiator cap?



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fatherpain

fatherpain

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Thank you @boosted180sx and @Volksparts for making the trek to Fullerton from Torrance and San Diego, respectively today.

Really enjoyed the visit. Spent something like 3.5 hours or so talking about the Civic Type R on the back outdoor patio, with plenty of breeze and enough social distance...Which is funny, because it seemed like was just a matter of minutes.

My wife surprised us with In-n-out burgers for lunch, which was really cool of her :bow:


4260922E-DFF9-4B82-9A65-9B3ECDDD5830.jpeg
The purpose of today’s visit was for Volksparts to hear the Sequence exhaust on boosted180sx’s Type R.

Had hoped my car might be ready to fire up, but was waiting for the replacement Radium PCV oil catch can to arrive.... Of course it arrived a few minutes after they left 😩
 

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Thank you @boosted180sx and @Volksparts for making the trek to Fullerton from Torrance and San Diego, respectively today.

Really enjoyed the visit. Spent something like 3.5 hours or so talking about the Civic Type R on the back outdoor patio, with plenty of breeze and enough social distance...Which is funny, because it seemed like was just a matter of minutes.

My wife surprised us with In-n-out burgers for lunch, which was really cool of her :bow:


4260922E-DFF9-4B82-9A65-9B3ECDDD5830.jpeg
The purpose of today’s visit was for Volksparts to hear the Sequence exhaust on boosted180sx’s Type R.

Had hoped my car might be ready to fire up, but was waiting for the replacement Radium PCV oil catch can to arrive.... Of course it arrived a few minutes after they left 😩
Thanks again for being an awesome host. Loved seeing the toys.
 
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fatherpain

fatherpain

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  • #439
B1994394-9608-4D71-8FEB-1701E0574251.png

Yes it was. Can see the coolant residue at the cap neck seal and at the threads on the overflow. Both of these leaks were addressed prior to pulling vacuum..

Removed the refill neck, cleaned the o-ring, applied some lube and tightened it a little more....Then applied teflon pipe dope to the threads.

Both repairs were confirmed when the pressure did not subsequently decay.

The main culprit for the failure to hold vacuum was the hose clamp that was out of place. :doh:

Radium sent a replacement o-ring, but I’ll set it aside for now, unless the neck develops another leak.

Speaking of whom... Radium confirmed my PCV oil catch can had a leak, but have not determined the root cause. My suspicion is a bad o-ring. As such, will avoid unscrewing the can to inspect and drain. Gonna just use the pet cock drain valve from now on and order one for the CCV catch can to do the same.

The replacement PCV oil catch can was pressure tested to 40psi in a water bucket.

As for the possible repercussion of a leaking PCV oil catch can, think it would be akin to a small boost leak and could lead to intermittent rpm spikes at idle, like I experienced before.

Was the Radium coolant tank leaking by the radiator cap?
 
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Lust

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5CBCAABC-8726-44D7-81B3-3B1F98513D82.jpeg

Wanted to say thank you to @Hooligan317 for hooking me up with these never installed JRZ coilovers and HKS error cancellers. Jumped on them when they were listed on the forum classified section. If interested in any items he is selling, know he is 110% trustworthy :thumbsup: He is moving onto another platform... so wishing him the best of luck with his new ride. He will be missed here on CivicX


F03F27FB-CB7F-4D7A-ABF8-117A4E646EF4.jpeg

Tempted to throw these on... but am waiting for some RV6 suspension pieces and need to recharge the batteries after this heavy round of mods + would like to enjoy the car at stock height a little while longer...

Besides, gotta save some stuff for the future and need to come up with a solution to keep the car from scraping at the bottom of our driveway at the lower height, which would drive me nuts o_O
Super jealous. Hopefully I can afford these soon lol
 
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fatherpain

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Heh thanks Michael... no need to be jealous man... you have me gapped by miles on driver mod ;)

Super jealous. Hopefully I can afford these soon lol
 
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fatherpain

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  • #443
DE22C064-CB8C-4935-835E-011D065148F0.jpeg

Completely unintentional and a little embarrassing, but had to have my nephew show how to bleed the clutch slave cylinder...

Back when I rotated the clutch slave cylinder to permit the Dream downpipe to fit....


8F049825-FAF1-465E-BE64-7498AB3717A8.jpeg

Didn’t realize it had come out of its’ actuator circled in red... so didn’t reinsert it.


CD15BFE4-9CA3-4EB1-A1CB-D3E2BB00DB70.jpeg

When I thought the car was good to go and ready to start, stepped on the clutch and it dropped straight to the floor... As did my jaw. Heh. Checked to see what happened, found the problem and noticed clutch fluid had sprayed out. :doh:


91C106DF-C9AF-4051-B9E4-64F82AC86C03.jpeg

Close up view of my little fax paux, sigh :banghead:


8C009D8A-0860-4C99-9A2B-4EE1383F64D6.jpeg

My nephew used a super long extension to remove the bolts securing the clutch slave cylinder, made sure it was properly seated, aligned it back into the arm, then reinstalled the bolts.


FB6C2ED4-8866-4FAF-A724-BCFCA3D3F18C.jpeg

Removed this rubber cover from the clutch bleeder.


EC144925-4B13-4D73-A06F-09F46B066049.jpeg

View looking straight down of the clutch bleeder valve.


8E78DCA0-85A4-4A4C-AB46-6B3A0638FA24.jpeg

A 8mm combination wrench is needed to operate the clutch bleeder. Showing this photo for the purpose of clarity. Did not open the valve to bleed until a tygon tube and water bottle was installed to catch the fluid.


7A1C9CC1-F2C3-47D4-8FBC-09678FD73932.jpeg

Like this. Slipped the clear tubing right over the bleed valve.


F79F4838-0FDF-4E50-9483-138AFC3CE091.jpeg

With the tube exit inserted to a bottle.


AF219726-FBE7-4011-96EA-032E6E82578F.jpeg

A 2nd person pumped the clutch pedal 3x then pressed and held it, while the bleed valve was opened a 1/4 turn, then closed to bleed air and fluid from the system and refill the clutch slave cylinder.

The clutch pedal needed to be lifted back to its starting position. Removing my shoe to use my toes worked good for this, heh.


2472F9AB-DD8C-457A-A3F7-53AB3269405F.jpeg

The clutch gets its supply from the brake system, so topped off the brake fluid reservoir between bleeds.

After about (12) bleed cycles, the clutch pedal felt firm like its supposed to.

Replaced the reservoir cap, closed the bleeder valve and reinserted its’ rubber cap then cleaned up.


79EF64E9-22EF-4B1A-88AE-4402D66626E0.jpeg
This is how much fluid bled out to ensure no air was left in the system.

Clutch bleeding is something I just found out about, so was interested in learning it.... Just not this way, :rolleyes:

Recently purchased a Speedibleed for single person brake and clutch bleeds. Will try it out next time ;)
 

kimtyson

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Your projects are getting messy! Thanks for sharing.
 

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DE22C064-CB8C-4935-835E-011D065148F0.jpeg

Completely unintentional and a little embarrassing, but had to have my nephew show how to bleed the clutch slave cylinder...

Back when I rotated the clutch slave cylinder to permit the Dream downpipe to fit....


8F049825-FAF1-465E-BE64-7498AB3717A8.jpeg

Didn’t realize it had come out of its’ actuator circled in red... so didn’t reinsert it.


CD15BFE4-9CA3-4EB1-A1CB-D3E2BB00DB70.jpeg

When I thought the car was good to go and ready to start, stepped on the clutch and it dropped straight to the floor... As did my jaw. Heh. Checked to see what happened, found the problem and noticed clutch fluid had sprayed out. :doh:


91C106DF-C9AF-4051-B9E4-64F82AC86C03.jpeg

Close up view of my little fax paux, sigh :banghead:


8C009D8A-0860-4C99-9A2B-4EE1383F64D6.jpeg

My nephew used a super long extension to remove the bolts securing the clutch slave cylinder, made sure it was properly seated, aligned it back into the arm, then reinstalled the bolts.


FB6C2ED4-8866-4FAF-A724-BCFCA3D3F18C.jpeg

Removed this rubber cover from the clutch bleeder.


EC144925-4B13-4D73-A06F-09F46B066049.jpeg

View looking straight down of the clutch bleeder valve.


8E78DCA0-85A4-4A4C-AB46-6B3A0638FA24.jpeg

A 8mm combination wrench is needed to operate the clutch bleeder. Showing this photo for the purpose of clarity. Did not open the valve to bleed until a tygon tube and water bottle was installed to catch the fluid.


7A1C9CC1-F2C3-47D4-8FBC-09678FD73932.jpeg

Like this. Slipped the clear tubing right over the bleed valve.


F79F4838-0FDF-4E50-9483-138AFC3CE091.jpeg

With the tube exit inserted to a bottle.


AF219726-FBE7-4011-96EA-032E6E82578F.jpeg

A 2nd person pumped the clutch pedal 3x then pressed and held it, while the bleed valve was opened a 1/4 turn, then closed to bleed air and fluid from the system and refill the clutch slave cylinder.

The clutch pedal needed to be lifted back to its starting position. Removing my shoe to use my toes worked good for this, heh.


2472F9AB-DD8C-457A-A3F7-53AB3269405F.jpeg

The clutch gets its supply from the brake system, so topped off the brake fluid reservoir between bleeds.

After about (12) bleed cycles, the clutch pedal felt firm like its supposed to.

Replaced the reservoir cap, closed the bleeder valve and reinserted its’ rubber cap then cleaned up.


79EF64E9-22EF-4B1A-88AE-4402D66626E0.jpeg
This is how much fluid bled out to ensure no air was left in the system.

Clutch bleeding is something I just found out about, so was interested in learning it.... Just not this way, :rolleyes:

Recently purchased a Speedibleed for single person brake and clutch bleeds. Will try it out next time ;)
It’s always good practice to bleed the clutch anytime you change the brake fluid. As you can see the fluid inside of the clutch line was pretty dark compared to the fresh fluid being poured in
 
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fatherpain

fatherpain

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Heheh serves me right for multitasking... Have taken on way too many concurrent projects, while doing this round of mods...However this was a total brain fade on my part, missed it completely.

Restored my wife’s, my son’s and a nephew’s car during the (2) months the R has been down....


9E4C9F9A-DB39-4EE6-880F-573A057C62B3.jpeg

And also some time restoring the interior of my good old 1996 Honda Accord, which have had for 20 years or so. 355k miles on the original engine.. still running strong and will likely go back to daily driving so the R can be a garage queen, heh.


7C43DE39-A9BE-4FE1-9DCE-D6CDF21C107A.jpeg
Look how neglected and ugly it was before
:drool:


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My OCD recalibrated after discovering the awesomeness of pick-a-part junkyards.


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Found interior pieces in like new condition, from a car that was garbage from the outside.... One man’s trash is another man’s treasure...For real, haha.


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Have become a “parts junkie” of sorts.


DC5B0610-EAD2-41DF-B384-5B6420C26195.jpeg

Stripped the interior to the metal and wet wiped everything down.


8D08B7FC-79F5-40C0-BA8F-5B54F1233044.jpeg

Pulled this carpet from another car, had it professionally cleaned, then installed it.



859F12FE-FA64-4897-9443-43A5086C42C1.jpeg

Interior restoration complete. Might Dynamat the doors, floor and trunk then install a phat stereo system, like I had back in the 90’s :cool:


C056887B-F3EF-45CC-B1C5-2AB1748473C3.jpeg

Changed everything, including seats and belts, plastics, etc. 🤣

Pick-a-part junkyards are great. The hunt is fun, parts are cheap and sometimes the only way to get discontinued parts.

Wouldn’t be surprised to see CTRs pop up on occasion... especially 10-15 years from now.


Your projects are getting messy! Thanks for sharing.
 
Last edited:
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fatherpain

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Thanks Michael. Yes was completely unaware of clutch bleeds until reading about it on the FB track pages and had it on the list of things to-do. This goof up just moved it straight to the front of the line, heh.

It’s always good practice to bleed the clutch anytime you change the brake fluid. As you can see the fluid inside of the clutch line was pretty dark compared to the fresh fluid being poured in
 
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fatherpain

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  • #448
83B16E1B-8A76-44AA-9843-1A673014DCC2.jpeg
Finally! After a little over (1) month, was able to get back onto the road and drive it again!

To recap, installed:
  • Dream Automotive high flow catted down-pipe.
  • RV6 front-pipe
  • PWR Race radiator
  • Acuity reverse flow silicone hoses
  • Eventuri CF turbo tube and V2 MAF tube
  • Aftermarket skid plate
  • Bled clutch
  • Replaced leaking Radium PCV oil catch can
  • Repainted J’s grill and hood touch up
Didn’t accomplish everything I wanted to... Still need to detail the interior and check the Acuity shifter to make sure everything is as it should be.

Was a little freaked initially to start it back up, especially with the two mishaps I had.

Also scary to see smoke burning off from the engine... but read that is normal for down-pipe installs. Opened the hood and verified it emanating from bolts that were anti-seized. The down-pipe and front-pipe also have a coating that cooks off.

Very pleased with the upgrades so far. Throttle response feels significantly improved (butt dyno). Exhaust note is louder and much more aggressive sounding, under throttle with Sequence exhaust valve open.

Car sounds stock when cruising normally and the valve is closed.

The intake sound is also more pronounced. Hits and sustains 24 psi max boost easily.
 
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fatherpain

fatherpain

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50B15188-0447-4E84-8BB7-221ECE438E15.jpeg

Added this after market aluminum skid plate to help some FB type R peeps reach their minimum order to get these fabricated. It came with (6) bolts and threaded clips. The (2) blue circles are where there are missing rivnuts. Had to purchase (2) more bolts and clips from Autozone.


F2B2AFBB-B5A2-4556-93DB-C5F5BFB62710.jpeg
The OEM skid plate has rivnuts at these spots. Have had zero issues with the OEM skid plate...but some folks have had them come off while driving and they get torn up. As I am often under the car, don’t foresee that happening to me... But I suppose it’s good to have a stiffer plate, just in case. (The OEM skid plate rocks however. So easy to remove and install.)


49BE09C1-DD3A-41EC-9A66-289C0C4F7878.jpeg

New threaded clips on left. OEM twist clips on right.


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Removed all of the existing OEM twist clips.


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And replaced with the supplied threaded clips.


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Installed (2) threaded clips directly to the skid plate where there should have been rivnuts.


1A87C9E7-4C03-4114-837E-1FBF8E3361F6.jpeg

Positioned the skid plate and used a 10mm ratchet to install the bolts.


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Fender washers were used for the (2) front holes, where the rivnuts should have been. I may go back and redo this with rivnuts so it will be more like OEM.


118876DF-9C6B-43C3-907C-54926AA12487.jpeg

Replacement aluminum skid plate installed.. It arrived with some scratches, but it’s underneath so don’t care about that.


9FEFC07C-0338-4CCB-A535-ED68A3903310.jpeg

One of the neat features was this window to access the oil filter and drain plug, which could have been ingenious..


B22FED82-0927-4479-93AD-6124E31F1D25.jpeg

Except more space could have been provided for oil filter access and the drain opening doesn’t allow for draining. A for effort, D- for execution


3B56C4E1-F3C9-4E13-8DEA-1F98377B3510.jpeg

Oil can be drained if have a Fumoto drain valve and tygon tube and adapter. Still it’s harder to operate the valve than it should be. Might try cutting to extend the opening or will remove the entire plate when it’s time to access, like the OEM.


61134450-CB1F-4909-8D85-01C47BB7852D.jpeg

After market skid plate installed. Mixed feelings on it. Looks nice, but doesn’t add much to function.
 
Last edited:

kimtyson

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Good review. I thought the oil door would be helpful. Sad they didn't do adequate testing first. (v2?)
So happy there was no liquid involved in this product, though I did start to worry when I saw the oil panel removed. No mess!
 

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