Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R

V3N0M_VZL4

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ToofHurts

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Please report back what Radium says about the leak on the PCV catch can. I just installed mine this weekend! I'm curious what side effects one would notice with an air leaking catch can.

Thanks!
 
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fatherpain

fatherpain

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Will do. Hopefully will have an answer and a pressure tested, replacement can by this weekend..

The leak is puzzling. Am 100% positive the can did not leak when I’ve run boost leak checks prior to the (4) track days I had February through middle of May.


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While servicing the Radium PCV catch can this time around, pulled one of the hoses to get space to twist off the can and noted it was really easy to do it that way...

Which made me think adding this remote petcock drain was kind of unnecessary.

But having encountered a leak, am glad it’s there. Will be draining through this valve from now on, so not to disturb the o-ring seal.


Please report back what Radium says about the leak on the PCV catch can. I just installed mine this weekend! I'm curious what side effects one would notice with an air leaking catch can.

Thanks!
 
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fatherpain

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Thank you Nitroturtle for identifying those parts. Was wondering what it was and hopefully didn’t screw up by rotating it out of the way and back again, lol.

Was unaware bleeding the clutch was a maintenance item, so will investigate next time the brakes are bled (which should be soon).

Thank you for following this thread. Always a boost to see these posts are appreciated and are helpful to others or parallel their experiences 👍

The turbo housing/DP studs are no joke. Still kicking myself about that stud that got stuck. Just don’t think I got the area hot enough. That particular stud has the most mass surrounding it.... but it’s galled, so too late now, heh. Was fortunate the stud was able to thread back in most of the way and still be used.

Would prefer to perform (1) mod at a time, but due to the proximity to one another, am doing them all at once. Hopefully everything will work when it’s time to fire up the ignition. Wish me luck, otherwise it will be fun troubleshooting the culprit.

Looking forward to finally get the full benefit of the performance parts with a tune.. Hopefully sooner, rather than later.

Decided early to wait until all bolt on components were added. Discussed this recently with boosted180sx and he mentioned it would have been really nice to have tuned early to datalog the effect of each performance mod... doh!

Also keep deviating to other build areas and the tune gets pushed further out. JRZ coilovers and the RV6 suspension package is next on the horizon...

November would be the ideal time frame for a tune, if able to hold out that long 😂


That "sensor" is actually your clutch slave cylinder. The rubber boot on the right houses the piston that pushes against the clutch fork to disengage the clutch. The little black rubber cap on the left is where you'd bleed your clutch fluid.

I love following your build. You do a great job of documenting and taking pictures along the way. Though I had a little PTSD reading about your turbo stud troubles. Pretty much exactly the same experience I had, except rather than knowing when to give up I continued until the stud snapped and ended up having to have it drilled and tapped.

You're definitely in for a treat once you get this thing tuned. I'm just finishing up my etune with FBO and the car is a beast.
 
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HomieGohan

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Not gonna lie, seeing your build thread made me want to get back on the forum. Good thing you posted on FB and it caught my attention. Time to do some catch up reading...
 
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fatherpain

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Heh that’s pretty awesome HomieGohan, thank you for the kind words and welcome back to CivicX :headbang:

There’s a lot of Information to sift through either by:
  • Reading post #1 through 426 in chronological order as each mod was added with conversations in between
  • Searching the table of contents on the bottom of the first post. Each topic has clickable links in red that will take you directly to that post.
Even if opt for different mod brands, install concepts should be very similar. Maintenance items are also covered that may prove helpful.

Thank you for taking interest in my build. There are many others in this section of the forum and several in the general section that have excellent content...well worth the time to check them out ;)


Not gonna lie, seeing your build thread made me want to get back on the forum. Good thing you posted on FB and it caught my attention. Time to do some catch up reading...
 
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REBELXSi

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fatherpain

fatherpain

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heheh, thank you, appreciate the kind words REBELXSi. The blue painter’s tape was to support the new replacement windshield while the adhesives cured ;)

My original windshield was cracked when we were hit by a rock driving on the freeway.


This kills every time haha, what is that tape doing?

Sweet ride, btw
 

REBELXSi

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heheh, thank you, appreciate the kind words REBELXSi. The blue painter’s tape was to support the new replacement windshield while the adhesives cured ;)

My original windshield was cracked when we were hit by a rock driving on the freeway.
I know what the tape was supposedly for but it seems like two pieces of tape wouldn't do much. Every time I see a newly repaired window, I laugh at the tape.
 
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fatherpain

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Ah 😏 I get it now. For real lol 😆 , but that’s what the window repair dude said, so went with it like that for a few days:drive:

I know what the tape was supposedly for but it seems like two pieces of tape wouldn't do much. Every time I see a newly repaired window, I laugh at the tape.
 
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fatherpain

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Acuity recommends vacuum pressure bleeding when refilling the radiator and they demonstrate using an OEM tools system refiller kit 24444 here.

As luck would have it, I picked up the exact same kit from Amazon after installing to the Koyorad... talk about swami-like premonitions :p


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The Airvac tool consists of a Venturi and the main portion which installs to the coolant expansion tank and has a suction line to draw radiator fluid. It also comes with a variety of rubber adapters.


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Removed the radiator cap. (Both areas showing evidence of leakage were re-sealed.)


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Inserted the 31mm rubber adapter.


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Then inserted the plug portion of the vacuum bleeder.


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Verified the tool was fully seated, then turned the handle to expand the plug and lock in the tool.


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Here is the operation of the Venturi for anyone not familiar.


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With both valves closed on the main portion of the bleeder tool, attached the Venturi via the quick disconnect.


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Then attached compressed air to power the Venturi with the valve open.


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Clamped the expansion tank overflow closed to prevent air leaks.


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Opened the Venturi suction valve to draw vacuum on the radiator and coolant system.


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Full vacuum on the system reached 25.5”. Closed the suction valve and disconnected the air. Verified the vacuum held solid.

The beauty of this tool is in addition to refilling the system, it will let you know if there is leak. A drop in vacuum would indicate a leak in the system to be troubleshot and fixed.


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With the vacuum good, Set up a bucket for the new coolant and placed the suction line inside. The instructions state it’s best to have the coolant supply at the same level as the tool, so stacked some stuff up to achieve this.


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Poured in (2) gallons of genuine Honda coolant.


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Taped the end of the suction hose to a breaker bar handle to keep it submerged


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Then dropped the suction end into the bucket.


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With the vacuum holding steady at 25.5”, removed the Venturi. All valves are closed.


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Slowly opened the valve to the suction line submerged in the bucket. Coolant immediately was drawn into the system.


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Vacuum decreased rapidly as more coolant was drawn in.


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Tilted the bucket to make sure the end of the suction hose stayed submerged and didn’t allow air to be pulled in.


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Let this continue until the vacuum reached zero.


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Refilling of the coolant system complete. Used some rolled up paper towels to remove some fluid because it filled to the rim and would have leaked out the overflow once the clamp was released.


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Airvac vacuum refiller tool removed, coolant expansion overflow unclamped and radiator cap reinstalled. Cleaned and put away the tools and disposed the unused radiator fluid.

Gotta say the OEM tools Airvac 24444 works really well and sure beats the manual method. Highly recommended for the DIY mechanic.:headbang:

This is how vacuum filling is accomplished when all conditions are perfect...

However I encountered a vacuum problem and had to troubleshoot and repair the leak before being able to refill the system as detailed above. Will detail on the next post :oops:
 
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fatherpain

fatherpain

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F57533EF-B9D1-4BD1-9D7A-1D2139AB2333.jpeg

Whelp, when I first attempted to refill the radiator, it wouldn’t hold vacuum.

Pulled the airbox and radiator coolant plate back off and retightened the (4) hose connections at the radiator and engine, radiator drain plug and resealed the areas showing evidence of leakage on the Radium coolant expansion tank.

Pulled vacuum and it still decayed:oops:

No worries. Being the “smart guy” I like to think I am, reconfigured the OEM tools vacuum bleeder to pressurize the system by switching a couple fittings around...
Took the system to around 10 psi, looked for leaks... then KABOOM!!!


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The vacuum bleeder compression plunger let go and radiator fluid went everywhere!! :doh:


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Even on the ceiling. Brilliant!! Felt so stupid :banghead: and spent a couple hours cleaning up... fortunately nothing was hurt besides my ego :rolleyes:.


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Discouraged but not deterred, called Autozone and found you can borrow their Coolant system pressure tester for free, with a deposit of $250 that is refunded when you return it.

Vacuum filled the radiator with distilled water, then hooked up the test device. It had a radiator style cap that locked in place and wouldn’t blow off. Gave it a few pumps to pressurize the system and looked for leaks.


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Bingo! Heard a faint squeal and found I forgot to put this hose clamp back to its original position :rolleyes:

This is the precise reason my preference in a perfect world is to perform (1) mod at a time.

Suppose a good practice would be to take pictures of every connection that is disturbed, to go back step by step to ensure nothing is missed.


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Slid the hose clamp back in place.

Found another clamp out of place on one of the smaller lines underneath the offending hose and returned it to normal.


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With the hose clamps back where they should have been, the leak was fixed, vacuum held and was able to refill the radiator as described on the previous post.
 
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the8rotor

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You know what, I used to wrench on cars and I still make bonehead moves every once in a while too. Live and learn... minus the learn for me 🤣

As always, love your build thread. Can't wait to see how your car rips.
 

kimtyson

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Thank you so much for your thread. I really respect the fact that your ego is not more important to you than helping us learn from your mistake. (You, and others, are the reason I value this forum so much. We have a lot of really helpful people in this community.)
I really love how thorough your posts are, along with the pictures and explanations. I am learning a ton just by reading. (And I am amazed with how much you know and the tools you have.)
I do believe that going forward, you should have a secretary taking notes of what you do so when it's time to put stuff together you can just read it in reverse. lol
Keep on keeping on Fatherpain.
 
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fatherpain

fatherpain

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Wanted to say thank you to @Hooligan317 for hooking me up with these never installed JRZ coilovers and HKS error cancellers. Jumped on them when they were listed on the forum classified section. If interested in any items he is selling, know he is 110% trustworthy :thumbsup: He is moving onto another platform... so wishing him the best of luck with his new ride. He will be missed here on CivicX


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Tempted to throw these on... but am waiting for some RV6 suspension pieces and need to recharge the batteries after this heavy round of mods + would like to enjoy the car at stock height a little while longer...

Besides, gotta save some stuff for the future and need to come up with a solution to keep the car from scraping at the bottom of our driveway at the lower height, which would drive me nuts o_O
 

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