Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R

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fatherpain

fatherpain

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  • #406
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For the Dream high flow catted downpipe w/lagging to go on, needed as much space as possible, so installed it before the PWR radiator went on. Removed both DP/FP support brackets using a 14mm socket here..


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And here. This is shown with it hanging, but it needed to come off.


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The down pipe was hitting the tip of the clutch slave cylinder (thank you @Nitroturtle for identifying), so removed these (2) bolts.


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And the cylinder rotated down and out of the way.


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Probably could have reused the old gasket and saved $50, but ordered a new one for the DP to Turbo connection as a best maintenance practice.


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These (3) studs needed to be on before the down pipe mated to the turbo housing. The reason being is it’s physically impossible to thread them in with the Dream down pipe in place. Only the 4th stud can be added later.


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Took finesse and patience, but the DP was able to go on.


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Anti seized the studs. There isn’t much room and just getting the nuts onto the studs was tricky.


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For the rear lower stud, the access was super tight, somehow finessed the nut on and used a Q-tip to apply anti-seize.


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There was no way to use a socket or regular wrench here. This view is looking top down at that rear lower stud.


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Used this 4 inch crescent wrench, however the jaws weren’t wide enough to engage the 14mm nut. It was barely too small.


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So took a grinder to open it up a little. Kept the face of the jaw parallel to the grinding disc and removed maybe 0.1 mm then was able to tighten that difficult to reach nut.:thumbsup:

Tightened the remaining (3) studs usinf a 14mm and 12mm combo and used the Rampage nuts where I could, then the upper down pipe flange was complete.



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fatherpain

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  • #407
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With the down pipe Installed to the turbo flange, moved to connect the DP to the RV6 front pipe. Here is the gasket they provided. It is thinner than OEM.


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Used a punch, screwdriver and dead blow hammer to indent the down pipe lagging so the bolts and nuts would fit.


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Look how tight that is. Anti-seized all of the threads.


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Reattached one of the support brackets to hold everything in place, but left the other off to have room to work.


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Then tightened the DP/FP flange. The standard nuts and bolt heads are 14mm. The Rampage nuts are 12mm.


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With the DP/FP connection tightened, reconnected the remaining support bracket.


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Like this.


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RV6 front pipe looks great brand new.


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Moved to finish the front pipe to exhaust connection. Was hoping to use the Rampage ti studs, but they were a little bit short :(


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The RV6 included bolt were even shorter. Here is the length compared to OEM. Thread pitch is also different.


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The RV6 FP bolt is designed to be used with the stock exhaust flange which is thin. Reached out to RV6 and suggested they include longer bolts for aftermarket exhausts, which most people switching front pipes probably already have, 😏


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Space to tighten the flange is tight. Kept the heat shield unbolted so could move it around, as needed.


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Here is a close up view, which may be of interest to fellow Sequence exhaust owners wanting an updated true 3” adapter elbow.. It’s gonna be real tight to get a wrench on any stud or nuts.


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With the FP/Exhaust connector bolted up, re-secured the heat shield and reinstalled the black OEM support brace.

RV6 front pipe with silver ceramic coating installation complete. :thumbsup:

Down pipe installation continuing.
 
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fatherpain

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  • #408
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With both down pipe flanges connected, re-secured the sensor that was rotated to provide extra space....then reinstalled the upper O2 sensor with anti seize, the O2 sensor wrench and ratchet.


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To avoid a CEL with the new DP, picked up a Vibrant Performance J style defouler tube and will try the middle flow restrictor.


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Flow restrictor inserts here and is held in place using a snap ring.


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Make sure to wear eye protection in case the snap ring pops off and launches. Internal snap ring pliers are the proper tool to compress and install to the retaining groove.


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Used a flat screwdriver to make sure the snap ring fully seated.


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Made sure the gasket was in place and applied anti seize.


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Installed the defouler to the secondary O2 sensor port pointed up. Tightened the lock nut to compress the gasket and secure the tube.

Big thank you to boosted180sx for noticing I had originally installed the defouler to the primary O2 sensor position which is incorrect. Caught it in time where it was still easily correctable.:bow:


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Installed the secondary O2 sensor to the defouler.


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Then both sensor plugs needed to be reconnected.


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Reattached both sensor leads to the holding bracket.


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Like this.


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Plugs reconnected.


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Dream Automotive high flow catted down pipe and Vibrant defouler tube installation complete. All that’s left is to put the stuff back on that was removed to get to it :)
 

V3N0M_VZL4

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i can see the conectors very close tot the DP, but everything looking good check this guy on youtube i believe he solve the overheating issues on his Type R.
 

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Looking good!
 
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fatherpain

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Thank you. Is it possible the connectors are in danger of melting? Hoping the hard lagging on the DP will help, but there is no provision to re-use the factory heat shield..

May investigate what insulation options are available.


i can see the conectors very close tot the DP, but everything looking good check this guy on youtube i believe he solve the overheating issues on his Type R.
 

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@fatherpain Nice addition, making me jealous. Do you notice any significant improvement from the DP/FP? And how is the defouler working, seeing any cel? Last, what does that "mid flow restrictor" do? What's the benefit? As usual, good write-up ;-)
 
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fatherpain

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Thanks EnjoyDriving, appreciate it man.

Unfortunately, while I’ve completed the DP, FP and majority of the Radiator install... Will still be a little while until get a chance to test out. Still have a bit left to complete. Mechanically still need to:
  • Install Eventuri CF inlet air charge and upgraded MAF tube
  • Perform Turbo boost leak check
  • Reinstall J’s hood and grill after PPF and ceramic
  • Replace vacuum line to exhaust
  • Reinstall bumper and under trays
  • Repair leaking seal on Radium coolant expansion tank while it’s empty
  • Refill the radiator
Though it’s not been tested, am confident the defouler will work. Here is a good video about it and I followed the poster’s recommendation to use the middle restrictor to help prevent CELs. He reported the defouler eliminated the CELs he was having :)


@fatherpain Nice addition, making me jealous. Do you notice any significant improvement from the DP/FP? And how is the defouler working, seeing any cel? Last, what does that "mid flow restrictor" do? What's the benefit? As usual, good write-up ;-)
 
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fatherpain

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  • #415
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Finally received the Eventuri carbon fiber inlet air charge pipe and upgraded V2 MAF tube. Ordered this May 1 from Evasive Motorsports and the wait was starting to bum me out..but they came through in the end...


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Was really tempted to throw it on right away... but wanted to perform a boost leak check while everything is apart.

Put the OEM pipe back to run the test. The Eventuri CF pipe is not rated for pressure and there is a possibility of it rupturing under 15-20 psi compressed air and the diameter is much larger than stock, so the Turbo Boost Leak Tester wouldn’t fit anyway.


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Found this leak on the Radium PCV oil catch can threaded body, which was unexpected.


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Suspected the o-ring might be the culprit. Put some sealant goo and tried again and still leaked.

Contacted Radium engineering and they had me mail the can to them so they can determine the cause of the failure. They are sending a new, pressure tested replacement.

There were no other leaks on the system :)


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Will keep the OEM inlet air charge pipe to run future boost leak checks. From now on, it will be a beautiful, repurposed tool.

Next up, Eventuri CF inlet air pipe and V2MAF update ;)
 
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fatherpain

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  • #416
2ECA868F-ADBC-487D-9282-3850592459DF.jpeg

Eventuri CF turbo tube and V2 MAF tube upgrade


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Eventuri provides a warning not to tighten down on the hose clamps securing the carbon fiber tube or risk breaking. Hand tight only. Official Eventuri installation instructions can be found here.


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Removal of the OEM turbo tube was covered on a previous post here. So won’t repeat.


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Will pick up on the install to coincide with step 8 of Eventuri’s instructions, which say to pull these (3) connectors... Piece of cake, right?


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This one is...


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And so is the second...


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But the third and final connector? WTH? Can barely see it, let alone reach it from up top :doh:


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Look how far down that son-uv-a-gun is :banghead:


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After about an hour or so of futility... Smarter not harder won out and removed the passenger wheel to try reaching it from another angle.


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Found an opening inside this part of the wheel well.


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From that vantage point, there was a clear line of sight, however there is only room to reach up, disengage and disconnect it with one hand... which is a pita. Be very careful not to damage the wiring harness. Don’t want to force it.


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After a couple of failed attempts, focused on disengaging the tab, while wiggling the connector at the same time and off it came:headbang:


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Yesssssssss :cool:


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Unwrapped the electrical tape holding the plastic harness.


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Used a small and medium flat head screwdriver at the same time to pry apart the plastic shroud. The small one to open the tab and the larger one to separate it.


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Plastic shroud removed. Will no longer be used. Set aside in my graveyard of OEM parts.


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Wiring harness with shroud removed.


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Cut and installed the supplied conduit protector.


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And wrapped the entire harness with electrical tape
 
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fatherpain

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  • #417
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Installed this adapter, silicone coupler and gasket. Probably could have re-used the old gasket, but opted for a new one. Part# 17272-RPY-G01


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Installed the gasket to the adapter.


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Slid the silicone coupler with the tapered internal end facing up. The CF turbo tube will connect to this end.


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Tightened the supplied hose clamp using a 7mm nut driver.

.
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Here is where the adapter connected to. Made sure the surface was clean.


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Applied anti seize to the (2) supplied bolts.


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Installed and tightened using a torx security bit and ratchet.


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Loosened and slid on the 2nd supplied hose clamp. The ideal position for the hose clamp screw is where the X is. I rotated the clamp to that spot later in the install.


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Reconnected the (3) electrical connectors that were previously pulled to remove the plastic protector. Routed the electrical and vacuum lines to have the least amount of strain on them.


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Installed the supplied anti-vibration stud here. The turbo tube has a tab that will sit here and it will be held down by a locknut.


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Inserted the supplied zip tie plug to the turbo tube.


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Then carefully guided the CF turbo tube to the correct position and inserted the lower end into the silicone coupler/adapter.


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Secured the CF turbo tube here. One bolt is longer than the other. Both used a 10mm socket.


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A needle nose worked well to zip tie the electrical and vacuum line to the turbo tube with the previously installed zip tie clip.


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Here is the reason the X is the ideal position for the hose clamp screw. With the turbo tube installed, there is a clear view of it...


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And the screw can be easily reached using a long flat head screw driver. Tightened hand tight only, per Eventuri’s instructions.
 
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Nitroturtle

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FA1057B6-FECD-4F21-96CF-2F0FDAA0A0D4.jpeg

The down pipe was hitting the tip of this sensor, so removed these (2) bolts.


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And the sensor rotated down and out of the way.
That "sensor" is actually your clutch slave cylinder. The rubber boot on the right houses the piston that pushes against the clutch fork to disengage the clutch. The little black rubber cap on the left is where you'd bleed your clutch fluid.

I love following your build. You do a great job of documenting and taking pictures along the way. Though I had a little PTSD reading about your turbo stud troubles. Pretty much exactly the same experience I had, except rather than knowing when to give up I continued until the stud snapped and ended up having to have it drilled and tapped.

You're definitely in for a treat once you get this thing tuned. I'm just finishing up my etune with FBO and the car is a beast.
 
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fatherpain

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  • #419
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Securing the CF turbo tube should have been EZ Peezy lemon squeezy, except I have Radium’s CCV oil catch can and the hoses are in the way, making it impossible to get the Eventuri lock nuts to engage the bolts from underneath. :doh:


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Fortunately, where there is a will, there is a way :hmm:. This post is specific for those rocking the Radium CCV oil catch can, though some principles will still apply for those that do not.


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Was able to work around the problem by removing the entire CCV catch can line furthest from the engine.


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Eventuri in their infinite wisdom provided (2) castellated nuts for this step.... which is awesome because they won’t fall out of the closed end of a 10mm combination wrench.. which is key to installing the nut from underneath. :bow:


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Just like this. Got the first one barely started and left it loose.


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Did the same for the second.


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Both castellated nuts installed loosely to the Radium brackets and bolts.


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Slid the CCV catch can line back into the brackets.


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Tightened the bracket on this end with the 10mm combo backing the nut underneath.


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Then did the same for the other end.


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Reattached the hose to the line and CCV catch can.
 
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fatherpain

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  • #420
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With the MAF sensor and wiring relocated outside of the the air box, the lid now has a unused hole, where engine bay air can get in. Air probably entered through this opening all along, but now that it has no function, the slot bothers me :rolleyes:. Covered it with black electrical tape. Eventuri says the hole is negligible on performance, so there will not be a re-design of the lid. They may make a rubber grommet available at some point.


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Eventuri’s V2 MAF grade instructions can be found here

Transferred the old hose clamps to the updated silicone hose and attached to the turbo tube and various lines. Did not over tighten the connection to the CF tube.


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MAF tube comparison. V1 top, new V2 bottom. Exit to the silicone hose and turbo tube is significantly larger.


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And it has a smoother transition now.


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Removed the original air box seal per Eventuri’s instructions.


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Seal removed and still in good shape.


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Marked the top centerline with a red sharpie, then cut using a sharp pair of scissors.


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After the top apex was cut, chose one side and whacked it flush. This is what it should look like when finished.


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Reinstalled the seal to the airbox, with the remaining flap facing out.


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Transferred the old air filter to the V2 MAF tube. Eventuri suggests blowing it out with compressed air every 3100 miles or 5km.


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Inserted the V2 MAF tube through the airbox.


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Screwed on the new MAF sensor mount in using a torx bit.


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Transferred the MAF sensor to the V2 tube.


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And secured. These torx screws are a little larger than the other torx.


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Rotated the radiator retention bracket back in place. This needs to be done prior to the airbox going back on.


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Made sure to reconnect these electrical connectors and re-secure them with their push clips.


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With the MAF sensor and wiring relocated, the entire airbox can be installed and removed as one complete piece.

No longer need to disconnect and remove the ECU to open the side lid to get to the MAF, which is a plus.

Important: The radiator cooling plate must be back in place before installing the airbox.


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It’s very important to make sure this lower opening coming from the side scoop is properly lined up with the bottom of the airbox. If It’s not centered correctly, there will be a big gap on the seal, which will result in hot engine air being sucked into the air box.


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The way to correct this is by reaching your left hand down and pressing the side scoop all the way towards the right, while tightening the airbox mounting bolt at the same time. Then affix the other bolt. This photo is just for demonstration.... I do not have (2) left hands, heh. Be sure to feel around the seal after the airbox is locked in to verify there is no gap in the seal.


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This is the new route for the MAF sensor wire. It feeds underneath towards the front.


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Then the connector pokes up behind the MAF tube and plugs in. Nice and clean:headbang:


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Tightened the hose clamp connecting the MAF tube to the silicone hose.


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The (2) plastic clips that secure the MAF sensor wire will still install to the ECU frame at these (2) spots.


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Reinstall the ECU and connect the battery.


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Applied a sticker to the airbox. Might keep it on....remove later. Don’t normally like using them but doesn’t look bad.


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That’s pretty much it for the Eventuri Carbon fiber turbo tube and V2MAF upgrade install. All that was left was to reinstall the radiator cooling plates and weatherstripping.


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The install was a bit more involved than originally anticipated... Have a few more things to take care of and want to get the J’s hood and grill PPF’d and ceramic’d before driving the car again.
 
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