Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R

GreaseCrow

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Hey man, just wanted to say I'm so happy hearing your story in your first post. Glad you got something you love and enjoy, gives me hope when I'm older to find my roots and enjoy them! :D



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fatherpain

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Thank you GreaseCrow for the positive vibes! Glad to hear you found my build thread and enjoyed the background story :thumbsup:

The Type R is a fantastic machine and there are so many great options to modify to your liking... and it’s a great daily driver in stock form.

The big five-oh kinda crept up...which has me squarely in “middle age crisis” range. Maybe this thread is evidence, or that an old dog can learn some new tricks ;)

But hey, I still drive that old 96 Accord. And from what I’ve learned from the R, may start restoring it one of these days.

Can say with confidence, I’d be enjoying the Type R completely stock if not for CivicX and the power of internet at our fingertips...:doh:


Hey man, just wanted to say I'm so happy hearing your story in your first post. Glad you got something you love and enjoy, gives me hope when I'm older to find my roots and enjoy them! :D
 
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fatherpain

fatherpain

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Noticed a weird fluttering sound when turning the steering wheel all the way to the left.

And an emissions CEL popped up. Plugged in the Autel to read the code and found (2) concerning codes:

432AAA3A-353D-421A-919C-71F2C8F19A5C.png

Suspecting some connector may have come loose. Especially considering the entire electrical harness was replaced a few weeks ago 🤔


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This also could be related to the electrical harness.. or the fuel pump that was changed last week due to the recall 🤨

Dropped it off to the dealer to get checked out. Hopefully they won’t need the car beyond today and maybe tomorrow... Would be a bummer, as I was about to start modding to get to FBO. :banghead:

**Update - Problems resolved**
Both CELs were caused by the same issue. An electrical connector had somehow worked itself loose.

The flutter sound on a hard left was due to the lug nuts on the driver’s side needing to be torqued to spec. Not sure how it loosened up.
 
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fatherpain

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  • #379
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Picked up a set of Varis rear fender extensions, with the goal of adding accents towards the rear for visual balance. Unfortunately, they are only available in FRP, so had them CF PPF wrapped.


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Masked the fender area with painter’s tape to guard against glue drips and also test fit the extensions.


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Taped off the top side edge to protect against glue pushby mark the placement of the extension.


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Roughed the surface with sandpaper to break the ceramic coating for the glue to adhere better.


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Until it looked like this.


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Wiped clean with a microfiber towel and rubbing alcohol.

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The Varis extension has a recessed groove on the backside where double stick tape or glue can be applied. Opted to go with glue as I occasionally track and don’t want an extension flying off.


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Wiped the extension groove with alcohol also.


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Then applied Gorilla glue in a zig zag manner.


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This seemed to be the perfect amount . Didn’t want too much where it pressed out, or not enough for a proper bond. The blue tape was there so it was ready to secure once pressed on.


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Pressed on the fender vents and my youngest son hovering around, doing his best to distract me.


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Opened the door to make sure the holding tape had enough to grab onto.


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Applied extra tape to hold the fender in place while the glue set. Didn’t want any unwanted sags.


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Repeated for the other side. Our lawn sprinklers came on during the installation of the last fender extension, so scrambled and pulled the car forward, heh.


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Let it set overnight, then removed the tape in the morning. Voila! Close up of the passenger side.


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Close up of the driver side.


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Passenger’s side fitment :p


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Another angle.


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I lined the fender up and let the extensions overhang about 1/16-1/8” all along the side and bottom edges so white could not be seen behind them.


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Driver side fitment.


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Varis rear fender extensions successfully installed. Relatively fun and easy, but was a little stressful, heh.

Wasn’t an overly big fan of the Varis extensions at first, but now that it’s on, seems like something that could have been on the car from the get go. Digging how it turned out....Very impressed with Varis’ fitment and quality.👍
 
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type_ramen

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I'm following suit, Tom. I got the EPR version and it's horrible fitment and returned it and now dealing with AliExpress headache. Hopefully there are still some US shops that has this in stock, not that I mind waiting. Where did you get the set from?
 
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fatherpain

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Hi type_ramen, I got the Varis rear fender extensions from Bulletproof Automotive in Hawthorne, CA

Their contact is: (213) 745-6954
:)

I'm following suit, Tom. I got the EPR version and it's horrible fitment and returned it and now dealing with AliExpress headache. Hopefully there are still some US shops that has this in stock, not that I mind waiting. Where did you get the set from?
 

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Amazing build thread! Your CTR has made one heck of a transformation, just got done going through the whole thread in one sitting lol!

Just got my civic sport hatch at the beginning of this month, and I must say your build has me a bit jealous ;). I just purchased a couple big first mods already lol.

I do want to mention though, if you don't mind my saying... I would be careful of what fastening hardware you use anti-seize on (you may know this already, if so forgive me lol). Anti-seize has been shown to reduce the required torque values by 25-30% to achieve the same amount of clamping force. Which could possibly unknowingly result in stripped threads ect, and bolts that don't stay tight when they should (lug nuts and spark plugs being a prime example not to use anti-seize). Food for thought :headbang:
 
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fatherpain

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Hi kcvpr,
Thanks brother! Holy cow that is a lot of my OCD ramblings and information to take in at one time....talk about sensory overload, heh :bow:

This thread used to be easy to navigate, when there weren’t so many pages... but became tedious as the content grew...
Boosted180sx showed me how to produce a functional table of contents was really beneficial and has helped conserve what brain cells I have remaining, heh.

Hopefully a topic was covered that may come in handy for your mod installs :)

Thank you for the anti-seize heads up. I‘ve been using it on threads that may come back apart, but not on wheel lugs. Need to follow up with my nephew to see if the lugs really were loose, as the feedback was from the service advisor, so should confirm. All lugs were torqued to 94 ft-lbs dry. Moving forward, will re-check them periodically. Hopefully it’s not a design issue with the J’s lugs, if indeed the torque came undone.


Amazing build thread! Your CTR has made one heck of a transformation, just got done going through the whole thread in one sitting lol!

Just got my civic sport hatch at the beginning of this month, and I must say your build has me a bit jealous ;). I just purchased a couple big first mods already lol.

I do want to mention though, if you don't mind my saying... I would be careful of what fastening hardware you use anti-seize on (you may know this already, if so forgive me lol). Anti-seize has been shown to reduce the required torque values by 25-30% to achieve the same amount of clamping force. Which could possibly unknowingly result in stripped threads ect, and bolts that don't stay tight when they should (lug nuts and spark plugs being a prime example not to use anti-seize). Food for thought :headbang:
 
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fatherpain

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In a couple weeks, it will be (1) year since taking up DIY mods as a obsesssion... err hobby :doh:.

To commemorate, am parking the car to install and do the following:
  • Dream Automotive high flow catted downpipe.
  • RV6 front pipe
  • PWR race radiator
  • Acuity reverse flow radiator hoses
  • J’s Racing thermostat *possibly*
  • Eventuri CF inlet air charge and upgraded MAF tube
  • Dream Automotive turbo oil return clam shell and clutch line insulation.
  • Transmission fluid change
  • Turbo boost leak check
  • Remove J’s hood and grill for minor paint touch up
  • Interior clean up
  • Carbon Zone Poland CF interior trim, mirror and CF rear vortex generator caps
  • When everything is back together, take to PPF/ceramic: hood, grill, windshield, fogs, fender side vents, rear fender extensions and CF caps.
Checking to see if a defouler is required to avoid CELs. Will be FBO once this round of mods are complete.


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Looking ahead, the next major goals will be having the car tuned (MoTeC 142) and installing water temperature and oil pressure and temperature gauges.
 
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fatherpain

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Changed transmission fluid for the 2nd time @34k miles and remembered this time to check and clean the transmission fluid strainer circled in blue.


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It’s held in place by a bolt that takes a 10mm combo. Do this while the transmission is drained.


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The strainer housing has a spring inside, so be careful. Mine launched unexpectedly, but nothing was damaged and I didn’t take one in the eye.


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The strainer can be fished out using your finger.


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Dirty birdy. This was the first time pulling the strainer to clean and inspect. There were some tiny metal dust particles on the mesh.


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Looking inside the strainer.


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Strainer nice and clean. Pardon my beat up dirty un-manicured thumb :drool:


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Strainer orientation. Although the strainer, spring and housing are reinstalled one at a time due to space constraints.

There is a rubber O-ring to replace. Part# 91307-PR8-005

Will be changing transmission fluid (Amsoil synchromesh) and checking this strainer every 12-15k miles from now on.
 
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fatherpain

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Short update. Have been motoring along at a decent pace. Successfully removed the air charge pipe, down pipe and front pipe. Drained the radiator. Removed the hood and grill and took for paint. Hood is already back, but won’t reinstall until all of the other work is complete. Changed transmission fluid and cleaned the filter. Might have to order some gaskets.


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Found a machine screw missing from the Eventuri side lid from when my car was worked on at the dealer, 😔.... this can be easily replaced by a random screw and washer... but it would be different than the other lid screws and would wreak havoc with my inner “Rainman”.....so reached out the Eventuri for a replacement.


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Here’s a quick look at the stock turbo. Will inspect more closely tomorrow for any signs of cracked or chipped blades. Looks ok so far.


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Here is the Dream Automotive high flow catted down pipe and RV6 front pipe side by side with OEM.
 
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fatherpain

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Here is a surefire method to remove the downpipe bolts, nuts and studs without snapping them off.

I’ve used this on much more stubborn equipment in a power plant, when I was a mechanic.... but didn’t get to confirm it works on the downpipe hardware until today.


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You will need some Kroil or similar rust penetrant.


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And a butane torch and freezIng spray with a fine aiming straw.


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first spray kroil on the threads and bolts. There are (2) bolts that are threaded directly into the body of the turbo housing and (2) nuts threaded onto studs. Be sure to spray kroil through the (2) backside holes in the turbo housing. Let sit for about (10) minutes. Be sure to wear eye protection and leather gloves.


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For the threaded bolts, apply heat evenly to the turbo housing where the threads engage, circled in blue. Do this for about (1) minute. The kroil will smoke off. Does not need to get red hot. This will make it expand.


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Immediately spray the bolt head only with the freeze spray for 5-10 seconds. This will make it contract.


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With it still hot, quickly use a 14mm socket and breaker bar and apply even steady pressure to break it free. At this point the external housing is hot (expanded) and the internal bolt thread is cooler (contracted).... A variation of the ball passing easily through the heated ring trick in physics....:cool:

If the bolt doesn't move and you are pulling hard, Stop. Repeat this process and try again.

Always apply pressure perpendicular to the plane and try to keep force as close to the fastener as possible. Avoid pulling from extended, offset angles unless absolutely necessary. The lower and rear fasteners may require a 14mm deep socket.


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For the (2) nuts, simply heat the nut for about (30) seconds. Try to hit all sides to make it expand evenly.


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Immediately spray just tip of the exposed thread to make it shrink.


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Pop the nut free with your wrench.


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Do the same for the other nut below.


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And the other stud. It’s a little tricky to get the torch positioned to heat the backside, but it can be done. Cool the bolt head on the other side and break it free.

If wish to remove the (2) remaining studs from the turbo housing, double nut them, then use the methods described above.


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Success no broken bolts or studs when removing the downpipe ;)
 
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fatherpain

fatherpain

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Thank you V3N0M_VZL4, didn’t apply that much heat, so don’t believe it did. However that is a very valid consideration.


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Did not heat anything where it was even faintly glowing orange and didn’t thermally shock cool the housing itself. Only the fasteners and studs. Doesn’t take much heat and look how far away the turbo blades are in comparison. Should be ok.... Of course I’ve probably jinxed myself by typing that 😂

That said, anyone considering this method may want to wait until I have everything back together and running again, just in case...

I have had a fail once before on the rear brakes :doh:


nice job i hope the turbo blades haven't suffered damage.
 
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Chrisp1

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I don’t see how you can possibly damage the turbo even in extreme cases the components are pretty far away...
 

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