Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R

[EnjoyDriving]

Wow, nice hood!! Have you noticed any temp drop in daily driving condition? Heat soak improvement? Also, would water get into the engine bay thru the center opening? It seems like it would.

Advertisement

 

[fatherpain]

Thanks EnjoyDriving. Haven’t driven it much, but just dropped it off to the dealer for the fuel pump recall. Hoping that is what caused a code and limp mode at my 2nd track day @Big Willow.

Don’t have a means to measure oil temps yet, so won’t know the effect....Aftermarket oil temperature and pressure gauges are on the list of things to do.

Can see heat waves emanating from the vent opening when stopped, so that’s a good sign.

Here is the size of the vent opening. FRP was unpainted when this photo was taken.

There is an optional rain guard that snaps in place when needed. I keep it in the hatch.

Here is what the guard looks like from outside, when it’s in place.

Wow, nice hood!! Have you noticed any temp drop in daily driving condition? Heat soak improvement? Also, would water get into the engine bay thru the center opening? It seems like it would.

 

[fatherpain]

Took the car in today to the dealership and addressed the fuel pump safety recall affecting certain 2018-2019 model years.

To check whether your vehicle needs to go in for this free service, click this link and have your VIN ready:

https://owners.honda.com/service-ma...q7LOQeEra64HRkYTc-VGcBmQnvaK5JLY5-Shws&e=&id=

 

[fatherpain]

Picked up the J’s Racing tower strut bar. As expected, the instructions are in Japanese so had to wing it, though it’s pretty straightforward. Warning: this walkthrough doesn’t apply if your camber pins are removed. Not sure how that would affect installation.

Removed these (3) nuts on the driver’s side using a ratchet and 14mm socket.

Then pulled this black metal plate.

Cleaned the dirt that was underneath.

undid this black plastic tie down using a 10mm socket. Left it attached to the wiring it secured.

Secured the now loose electrical wire to the adjacent wire with the zip tie included in the kit.

Placed this bracket and lined up to the studs.

Applied anti seize and threaded on these (Rampage ti) nuts and washers hand tight.

Repeated for the passenger side. Positioned the connected bracket and bar. Applied anti-seize and installed nuts and washers hand tight, also.

Removed this bolt and connected the strut bar to the driver’s side bracket.

Applied anti-seize and installed the backing nut hand tight also.

This seemed a critical step. Noticed the strut bar had a little bit of slop with everything hand tight. Removed it entirely, by pulling the drivers side bracket outwards then tightening each nut.

Did the same for the passenger’s side.

With both brackets tightened and the strut bar firmly rigid, tightened the nut and bolt connecting the bar as the final step. There is an Allen head, but the bolt didn’t spin, so didn’t need to back up with a key.

J’s Racing tower strut bar installed.

Another angle. Not sure will be able to tell if it makes any difference until my next track day which is TBD.

 

[frtorres87]

Whats the paint code used to paint your grill?

 

[fatherpain]

Apologies Frank, asked the paint shop to match the existing trim and they looked it up using the VIN#, so do not know which code was used.

On a related note, when your grill is painted, highly advise waiting (30) days to fully cure before installing... a small portion on one of the edges rippled and flaked off, so will need to pull it back off and have them touch it up.

Whats the paint code used to paint your grill?

 

[fatherpain]

Happy Father’s Day, fellas. Celebrated a little early last night and went to a SoCal Facebook Type R meet organized by MiguelGT and company. Was a big turnout, more so than usual

So many great cars and nice people to meet and visit with. We all wore masks and maintained social distancing.

Didn’t realize until later on, I was parked next to a car also rocking the J’s Racing/First Molding hood painted all white.

This was about 45 minutes into the meet. Many more arrived. GuessIng maybe 50+ showed up. Was answering questions, so didn’t get a chance to walk around and see everyone’s cars.

An OG Integra Type R joined the fun.

Some beautifully wrapped Rs were on display.

Including this one, which was wrapped by the owner. I think it would be fun to learn this process.

 

[fatherpain]

Here is the optional rainguard for the J’s Racing vented hood. Mine is painted underneath to match.

Top view. FRP

Where it attaches to.

Rain guard installed. It fits well. However there isn’t a rubber sealing surface. Imagine some water will leak by in heavy rain if the catch tray gets full. Might look into sourcing a thin gasket material, but it’s held just by pins so may leak anyway, dunno. Assuming the way to remove collected rain water would be to open the hood and let it run off.

The tray is secured by these plastic push clips. J’s supplied (2) extra pins in the kit in case they break or get lost.

Hood view with rain guard installed. No more ventilation other than the (2) side vents. Those don’t have covers.

 

[fatherpain]

Stopped by APR Performance and picked up their (3) Piece CF Radiator cooling plate kit. Installed the driver’s side with some existing push clips and a 10mm bolt. Everything lined up except....

This tab towards the windshield. It was off about 1/2”.

The hole also was sized a little too small for the plastic clip to push lock. Will need to enlarge it.**update took to APR and they corrected by grooving the hole. Trick is also to install this push clip first, then work in the others.**

Fortunately the passenger side fitment was spot on. Dropped in, no issues.

Removed the OEM radiator plate by removing a bunch of push clips and needed to pull (2) of these rubber bumpers to transfer to the APR center plate. Sprayed some Kroil to help it slide.

Squeezed the plug with a needle nose, while turning and pushing it through.

Bumper removed and ready to be installed to the APR center piece.

One hole was perfectly sized and the bumper easily pushed through and locked in. However this hole was too small. The bumper should have seated at the red dotted line before pressing it through, but it stopped here instead.

Didn’t want to force it and risk cracking the CF, so used a round hand file to enlarge the hole.

Filed lightly, until the bumper seated this far, then pressed it through.

With the bumpers installed, positioned the center plate and re-installed push clips that were pulled to remove the OEM radiator plate.

Found the APR center plate missing (3) holes for the intake rubber seal, so placed the stock plastic plate on top and marked the where the holes are supposed to be, using a pick.

Set aside the OEM plate and scored the (3) holes to be drilled.

Drilled at a very low speed and torque setting with very light pressure. Started each hole with a small pilot drill bit, then incrementally increased the bit sizes until reaching 13/64”

The (3) holes drilled to 13/64”. Now it was ready for the intake rubber seal engagement pins to snap in place.

View from driver’s side.

View from the passenger’s side.

APR Performance (3) piece radiator cooling kit installed. Doubt it helps cooling in any way, but it’s some nice engine dress up. Weave quality is impressive. Despite the adjustment required, am happy with how it enhances the look of the engine bay.

 

[frtorres87]

Stopped by APR Performance and picked up their (3) Piece CF Radiator cooling plate kit. Installed the driver’s side with some existing push clips and a 10mm bolt. Everything lined up except....

This tab towards the windshield. It was off about 1/2” .

The hole also was sized a little too small for the plastic clip to push lock. Will need to enlarge it. Installed as-is for now, with this one hole unsecured. Debating whether to take it back to see if APR has one with a better fit, or attempt to adjust it.

Fortunately the passenger side fitment was spot on. Dropped in, no issues.

Removed the OEM radiator plate by removing a bunch of push clips and needed to pull (2) of these rubber bumpers to transfer to the APR center plate. Sprayed some Kroil to help it slide.

Squeezed the plug with a needle nose, while turning and pushing it through.

Bumper removed and ready to be installed to the APR center piece.

One hole was perfectly sized and the bumper easily pushed through and locked in. However this hole was too small. The bumper should have seated at the red dotted line before pressing it through, but it stopped here instead.

Didn’t want to force it and risk cracking the CF, so used a round hand file to enlarge the hole.

Filed lightly, until the bumper seated this far, then pressed it through.

With the bumpers installed, positioned the center plate and re-installed push clips that were pulled to remove the OEM radiator plate.

Found the APR center plate missing (3) holes for the intake rubber seal, so placed the stock plastic plate on top and marked the where the holes are supposed to be, using a pick.

Set aside the OEM plate and scored the (3) holes to be drilled.

Drilled at a very low speed and torque setting with very light pressure. Started each hole with a small pilot drill bit, then incrementally increased the bit sizes until reaching 13/64”

The (3) holes drilled to 13/64”. Now it was ready for the intake rubber seal engagement pins to snap in place.

View from driver’s side.

View from the passenger’s side.

APR Performance (3) piece radiator cooling kit installed. Doubt it helps cooling in any way, but it’s some nice engine dress up. Weave quality is impressive. Despite the adjustment required, am happy with how it enhances the look of the engine bay.

Your engine bay is looking good.

 

[fatherpain]

The cracked front windshield was replaced today, and the technician performed the work in our driveway, which was nice.

Paid a $250 deductible for insurance, ouch. But knowing the Honda factory glass costs over $600 alone, the sting is alleviated some.

Blue tape needs to stay on the car for (1) day. No car washes for (3) days.

Darn freeway rocks

 

[AndrewsCivicSi]

$

The cracked front windshield was replaced today, and the technician performed the work in our driveway, which was nice.

Paid a $250 deductible for insurance, ouch. But knowing the Honda factory glass costs over $600 alone, the sting is alleviated some.

Blue tape needs to stay on the car for (1) day. No car washes for (3) days.

Darn freeway rocks

$250 is nothing.
I paid $900 for my windshield for my Volvo when I thought I had windshield insurance and it wasn’t even OEM and I got hooked up because I worked at dealer. If that makes you feel better lol.

 

[fatherpain]

For real. When it happened, didn’t give it much thought.. Naively figured it would be a couple hundred tops.

Was stunned to find it would be around $1,200 parts and labor at the dealer, and that’s not including PPF and ceramic replacement.

Very grateful insurance covers rock damage.

$250 is nothing.
I paid $900 for my windshield for my Volvo when I thought I had windshield insurance and it wasn’t even OEM and I got hooked up because I worked at dealer. If that makes you feel better lol.

 

[fatherpain]

Wanted to replace the plastic OEM fender vents with carbon fiber. Went with the APR Performance kit. Started the install on the passenger side first, which is the more difficult of the two. APR’s instructions aren’t as detailed as they could be and omitted a key step, which this post will cover.

First, turn the wheel fully outwards on the side you are working on, to provide space to work.

Remove these (3) Phillips screws. The 4th circled item is a square plastic clip that does not need to come off.

The square clip came off easily here, but was really stubborn on the driver’s side. There’s a real danger of breaking it, so advise skipping this altogether.

Pull back the liner to access and remove the philips screw that secures the bottom half of the vent.

Open the hood. Remove the side engine bay cover, if have one. Otherwise proceed.

Within this recess is (1) plastic push pin that needs to be removed. This pin is towards the outside of car. Disregard the push pin on the cabin side. You will be reaching your arm inside, so be careful not to cut yourself on sharp edges.

Here is the push pin that needs to be removed. It secures the top half of the vent.

A long screwdriver comes in handy to pop the clip.

Like this. Push pin ready to come out. If your arms are skinny, can reach in and grab it... again, be careful doing so, there are sharp edges that will shred your forearm.

A Doctor Octopus arm would come in handy, but this mechanical grabber works just as well.

With the upper and lower fasteners pulled, carefully pry the body panel from the vent with a plastic pry tool...There are (4) holding tabs on the vent that need to be disengaged.

Wiggle and pull the vent from the bottom while separating the body from it. Can see (2) of these holding tabs on the lower right.

Slightly open the door to get proper clearance and keep pulling the vent. Here is a good view of those holding tabs.

OEM vent removed! Success

Side by side rear comparison. OEM left. APR right. Note the APR does not have that probe doohickey gizmo and it's not needed.

Side by side front comparison. OEM left. APR right.

This is the critical step not mentioned in the APR instructions. The upper hole on the APR is slightly smaller than OEM and needs to be enlarged to 21/64”. Didn’t realize this until after the vent was in and could not get the push clip to engage. Had to pull the APR off, which was a little hairy, but was somehow able to do so without breaking it

Messaged boosted180sx to “vent” about this and was reminded he had warned me about this step. My brain didn’t register this, so suffered through some extra work (and pain)

Placed the vents CF side face down on a soft cushion and carefully bored the holes using a 5/16” drill bit, followed by 21/64”. Kept the drill motor at very low speed, low torque and light pressure. Have to be very careful for it not to grab and seize or the CF may break.

Verified the push pin clip now can pass through and expand. The push pin is broken, but still did the job. I may revisit and install a new clip, the next time I want to punish myself.

Open the door fully, to get needed clearance to install the APR fender vent.

Install by sliding the vent top down, opposite of how the OEM came out.

The vent will then snap into place. Make sure all (4) nubs on the vent are fully seated. Thread in the lower screw and install the push clip to secure the top. That push clip is a b1tch, because you need to reach your arm inside the fender wall and there isn’t much space + the sharp edges press into your forearm. Be very careful not to cut yourself when doing this step. Patience or skinny arms is the key. Was on the verge of asking my 12 year old to help me out, but was able to get it.

Once the upper and lower vent fasteners are in, screw the plastic skirt back on, reinstall the engine bay trim (if any). Repeat for the driver’s side, close the hood, straighten the wheels and voila!

APR Performance CF fender vents installed!

Fitment is spot on after boring that hole.

Pleasantly surprised how it turned out. Looks great in person and the CF weave matches the vents on the J’s Racing hood pretty well.

Should have the Varis rear fender extensions wrapped in CF PPF and ready to install Friday.

Carbon Zone Poland CF caps for the side mirrors and rear vortex generators are the next exterior cosmetic mods. ETA 2-3 weeks.

Also still waiting for my personalized black and yellow California legacy license plates to get made.

 

[frtorres87]

Apologies: APR Performance fender vent installation post under construction... comments to be added soon

now that's a mod ive always wanted to do. looks good bro.