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Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R

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fatherpain

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  • #136
Had a little bit of time last night so picked up where I left off.


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Pulled these 12mm and 10mm bolts. This front bracket needed to come off.


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Close up on passenger side. This plastic push clip also needed to come off. Driver side was similar.


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Bracket lift up and out. Set it aside.


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Next prepped the plastic shroud for removal. Pulled this push clip.


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And this push clip on the drivers side.


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Then lifted the plastic shroud off and set it aside also.


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With the radiator exposed, removed both of these metal tabs that secure it in place.


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Removed the first with a 12mm socket.


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Then the 2nd.


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Removed both tabs and set aside.



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  • #137
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Next objective was to release this bracket so it could pushed out of the way, for the radiator to clear when pulled out.


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There are (4) bolts to remove on each end of the bracket. (2) on the top, (1) on the backside


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And another on the front.


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Removed this bolt. Access was difficult but the good old Palmster ratchet came through again.


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This bolt and nut both needed to be removed.


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Used a 10mm combo to loosen this nut.


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Freed this plastic retaining clip to permit movement in the AC line. Needed to do this to remove the bracket in the next pic below.


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Then was able to finesse this AC support bracket off. This only exists on the passenger side.


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Squeezed this plastic clip and released from the radiator. Left it attached to the wiring.


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Did the same for this clip.
 
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  • #138
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Disconnected the electrical connector for the passenger side radiator fan.


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And the connector for the driver’s side fan.


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Squeezed the connectors and they easily separated.


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Clipped this zip tie connector on the backside of the driver’s side bracket. Was too tough to pull. Will run a new zip tie through when it goes back together.


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With all that done, carefully pushed the beam out of the way, just enough for the radiator to clear. There are some delicate lines still attached to it, but it looked like a lot of trouble to remove and not needed.
***Please scroll down to post #141 for update to this step***


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***WARNING*** Do not pull this fitting. Like a doofus, I loosened this without thinking it through and didn’t realize it was the AC line under full pressure. Now I know, heh. The fitting popped off and refrigerant began forcefully spraying out. Kept my wits, held my breath and somehow threaded it back in and got it to stop.

It was a very dangerous situation. alone, inside a closed garage with escaping refrigerant gas creating a hazardous atmosphere. The safest thing would have been to vacate the area or open the garage door and let it bleed out. I stuck with it and got lucky, but was on the verge of exiting if it lasted much longer.
 
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  • #139
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Wiped down the spilled refrigerant and changed my underwear, then proceeded to disconnect the AC condenser from the front of the radiator. There are (4) 10mm bolt heads to remove. (1) here and another on the other side. It will stay in place with all the bolts out.


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And (2) underneath. One here...


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And another on this end.


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Space was limited, but a 10mm combo worked well. Not looking forward to putting these lower bolts back on the new radiator. The nightmare scenario would be having to pull the intercooler that is in front to do so. **update bolts went back in np**


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Used a regular set of pliers to compress this hose clamp so it could move.


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Moved the clamp completely out of the way to eliminate the possibility of cutting my hands on it. Sprayed some kroil lubricant on the hose connection to help free it up.


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Used a small flat screwdriver and pick to break the seal on the hose, as it was on there pretty good.


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Upper radiator hose removed.


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Stuffed a paper towel in it to prevent a coolant leak.


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The lower radiator hose was difficult to reach and its hose clamp was positioned in the worst possible spot. Could only grab it to squeeze from above. Had to pull the intercooler hose connection to the engine (that had been pressure tested good earlier) to gain access. Will have to pressure test again when it’s back together. So frustrating, heh.


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Was able to turn the hose clamp sideways from up top. With the clamp in this position, grabbed it from below and pulled it back.


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Sprayed the lower connection with kroil, Gave the hose a tug and it mercifully popped off. Stuffed a paper towel in the lower hose also.


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With everything disconnected, the radiator was finally ready to remove. Did a thorough inspection and made sure nothing was missed.


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Gently wiggled the radiator back and forth while lifting and out it came.


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Woohoo!! OEM radiator successfully removed! Shoved some paper towels in the hose and drain connectors also.


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Ran out of time. Next step will be to transfer the hardware from the old radiator to the Koyorad, then reinstall, refill and bleed.


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The Koyorad core is much thicker than stock, so there is a slight chance it will not fit between the piping ends of the Wagner intercooler. I sure hope this won’t be the case. Wish me luck ;)

***update: Koyorad is compatible with Wagner Intercooler. Just need to grind down a small portion of the radiator frame so it doesn’t rub against one of the silicone hoses.
 
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  • #140
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Set the OEM radiator next to the Koyo to swap hardware over.


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Removed these (4) bolts (12mm)


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Transplanted the fans from the stock radiator to the Koyo and secured with the bolts. Fitment was perfect.


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Pulled these (2) rubber boots.


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And put them onto the feet of the Koyorad.


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made sure the Koyorad drain plug was tight. The size is 14mm.


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Removed the coolant temperature sensor using a 17mm combo.


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temperature sensor extracted.


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Then moved over to the Koyorad.


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All hardware moved to the Koyorad radiator. Ready to install :)
 
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  • #141
Tried guiding in the core and it would not clear the cross beam that was loose and pushed back a little, so needed more room.


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Earlier in installation, tried disconnecting this AC electrical plug next to the passenger headlight. Couldn’t figure it out so left it alone.


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Now that more room was needed, had to revisit it.
Honda made it idiot proof. Spent 10 minutes or so using a pick and screwdriver trying in vain to get it to release. All it took was to squeeze the end and pull. SMH lol.


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With that connector no longer holding it, pushed the bracket completely out of the way as Should have been done in the first place, heh. Left the hood release cable connected to it.


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Doing so made plenty of space to drop in the Koyorad. The rubber boots on the feet of the radiator will seat fully in these (2) round recesses.


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Close up of the passenger side recess.


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Close up of the driver’s side.


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Dropped the Koyorad in. Had to wiggle it a little to make sure the boots fully seated in those recesses. To my relief it fit just about perfectly and cleared the Wagner Intercooler hard piping, I was worried about.

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Checked from underneath to verify the rubber boots were seated all the way down. There are (2) holes like this to see them through this hole. Sprayed the boots with kroil to help them slide in. It was a little tricky to get them to seat, so it’s a good idea to check here to make sure they are in.

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After that, everything went back together quickly with no issues. Just reinstalled in reverse order of the disassembly, so won’t bore you guys with those details. Having pictures and a log to refer back to made it super easy ;)


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Inspected and found the intercooler silicone hose rubbing hard against the driver’s side of the radiator. Can’t leave it like that or will eventually cut through.

Looks like an easy fix. Just need to remove some of edge of the radiator frame so it no longer touches.

Could use a small hand file, but it’s in a tough location and access is tight. Might be easier to just pull the radiator out again and use a grinder or dremel. Have not refilled the coolant so that is an option. Now that I know exactly what’s needed, it might take all of 15 minutes to yank the radiator and do it right. That said, I’ll try the file first and see how that goes, since it’s soft aluminum.

After this rubbing issue is resolved, will retest the (1) intercooler connection that was disturbed for vacuum leaks, reinstall the intake, ECU and battery. Add coolant, check for leaks and bleed the system. Will also check the HKS for leaks and top off the oil level.

Will post pics and steps of the radiator bleed when I get to it.

If all is good, will reinstall the under plastics, oil tray and front bumper then will finally be back on the road. Can hardly wait, should be soon ;)
 
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fatherpain

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  • #142
EEB6E25C-9DEA-4C5F-B396-704E80F37B87.jpeg

Side by side thickness comparison:

OEM Denso radiator (left)
Koyorad (right)

15E16CC3-233E-4317-8EF8-7214571D8FF8.jpeg
 
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  • #143
F2029BC9-662C-48CF-915C-542817DB77A2.jpeg

To address the radiator rubs, decided to do the job right and pull the radiator back out to modify it properly.


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Trimmed the offending radiator bracket back along the blue line, using a grinder with a cutoff wheel.


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Fitment was perfect after that. Hose no longer touching the radiator frame ;)


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Noticed the other intercooler silicone hose was rubbing also.


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ground down the plastic fan shroud and the aluminum bracket. Didn’t take too much off so not to compromise the strength.


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Not pretty, but no longer touching on this side also ;)


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Checked from underneath and made sure both rubber feet of the radiator were fully seated in the recesses. Sprayed some kroil on both feet then had to reach up and finesse them in. They did not just drop in place.

With the rubs fixed, proceeded to complete the radiator install :)
 
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With the radiator finally completed, there were still a lot of little steps to do;

1. Performed a boost leak test again. Passed!
2. Reinstalled the air intake, ECU and battery
3. Did a thorough pre-start inspection.
4. Added coolant
5. Started the car and let it idle for about an hour with the coolant cap off and the overflow tube routed to an empty water bottle. Ran the heater on at full blast. Had garage door open and a fan blowing so carbon monoxide wouldn’t accumulate. Revved the engine and squeezed the upper and lower radiator hoses to bleed the coolant system. Verified the lower radiator hose didn’t stay cold and the radiator fans worked.
Killed the engine, reinstalled the coolant cap and topped the oil off.
6. Reinstalled the under plastic and bumper.


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For anyone running an Eventuri intake, loosening this ground connector is the key to being able to easily remove and install the side air scoop.


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The Koyorad took about 1.5+ gallons to fill. I blew through about 2 gallons, but a good amount spilled onto the ground when a certain nincompoop (me) forgot there was an overflow drain line on the expansion tank *doh*


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Tried using one of these for bleeding. Unfortunately, it is not compatible with the Radium coolant expansion tank and it leaked also :(


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Looked great on the YouTube video but the cap isn’t the right size to maintain a proper seal so it leaked.


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Ordered one of these nifty vacuum bleeder tools for next time. Would have been so much easier and less messy. Hopefully it will fit.


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The Type R oil dipstick is so hard to read. This is it dried off, with the target oil level marked.


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Here it is wet, reading the proper level. Have to let the light catch it just right to see it. Maybe would be easier, if it were any color, other than orange. Certainly would consider an aftermarket dip stick if someone produces one, heh.

All that’s remaining is to reinstall all of the plastic push clips on the bumper and reinstall engine compartment trim and put back the oil tray. Placed additional zip ties to secure the front brake lines but opted not to Change them out, as the rub damage appears strictly cosmetic and the fluid is practically new. Will hold off until the next change.

With any luck, the R will be back on the road today. It’s been just over (3) weeks and I’m looking forward to driving it for the first time in 2020 ;)
 
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  • #145
66DB032D-68BB-4CEC-A48A-F919C92A4986.png

LOL ok not that Kraken!!


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This one, heh ;) Went for a 35 minute drive through some hills and pushed it a little when had some open road. Had forgotten how amazing it is to drive the Type R. Such a great all around performance machine in stock or modded form.

The Hasport 62A didn’t “stand out” and I mean that in a good way...Was concerned it might vibrate the mirrors off, but that was not the case. No break-in period needed for my tolerance level, I suppose, heh. There seemed to be a little more rumble to the engine, but I’ve been driving my Accord and my wife’s Rav 4 for the past few weeks... For comparisons, it would have been better if this mod was done by itself, to see the difference the same day. Did (1) hard pull from a stoplight and didn’t notice wheel hop through any of the gears, which is awesome. The RMM seems to be doing its job. I believe it’s a very good value mod at about $134.

Did not experience any overheating issues, so believe the radiator is working properly and the bleed effort went well.

Also did not notice any of the spiking RPMs at idle, so I’m cautiously optimistic fixing those small boost leaks has put that issue finally to rest ;)


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Also secured the HKS oil cooler lines to the metal cross brace that was removed for the install. Doing so keeps them out of the way of the aluminum oil tray.


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Speaking of HKS, I am disappointed with this wonky step in their instructions. DO NOT cut the vent according to their template, as I made the mistake of doing.


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Here is the reason. WTH?


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Are you kidding me? Part of the bumper shows from behind. SMH... who verified this ridiculous nonsense at HKS? Lol


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Other than this minor faux pas, very pleased with how the HKS cooler install turned out. Can hardly tell it’s there with it powder coated black. All will be good after I get another fake vent and cut it properly or paint the white part that is showing black. ;)


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Same thing for the punch plate painted black ;)
 
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OrchidFc3

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Just went through your entire thread! Love all what you have done to your CTR and the detailed writups are great. Thanks again for messaging me about your koyo rad install, it will defiantly save me some time.

On another note, how to do you like those project kics lug nuts? Have they faded or stripped at all? I was looking into them for my new wheel setup.
 
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Hello Holly,
Thank you for the positive vibes. Was reading your build and saw you picked up a Koyorad recently. Glad it may help as it was a bit of a learning curve and don’t want others repeating my gaffes and mistakes, heh.

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Really digging the Koyo kics. I followed hpbyhermann’s lead on these and no regrets. They look great and are lighter in weight than the OEM lugs. They come with a non marking socket + (1) special adapter for one of the lugs that acts like a lock. Went with black though was tempted by the neo-chromes. Had the lugs ceramic coated along with the wheels.

Just went through your entire thread! Love all what you have done to your CTR and the detailed writups are great. Thanks again for messaging me about your koyo rad install, it will defiantly save me some time.

On another note, how to do you like those project kics lug nuts? Have they faded or stripped at all? I was looking into them for my new wheel setup.
 
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OrchidFc3

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Your welcome! Oh wow those look so good with your wheel setup. I was leaning towards the neo chrome as well haha. My wheels are blue, so I think it may be a bit to in your face, I will likely go black.
 
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  • #149
With the car drive-able again, took the opportunity today to follow up on this rear window seal warranty issue that affects 2017-18 models. The Honda Service Department at Freeway Honda called a couple weeks back, but my car was apart and wasn’t able to take it in.


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Recapping an earlier post, here was my seal. Not bad, but starting to curl away.


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Not as bad as this example, but well on its way.


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Fixed :) Freeway Honda replaced it, did their full inspection and also recharged my AC, free of charge. Even better, there were no additional joy ride miles on the car when I picked it up. A+ for the cool peeps in their service department.

If your rear window seal is curling, I advise taking it in for replacement under warranty. May take a couple weeks to get parts in.


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Feels good to get all these projects out of the way and be able to enjoy the car again, ;)
 

OrchidFc3

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Holly
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Now I have to see if my window seal is the same way, I never even noticed if it was lol.
 

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