Evans's 2017 Type R #01815 Build

[evans609]

Now for the install. Im sure most places wouldnt have the issues I had but being a daily for right now until I get my sti finished and using damn salt in the winter tends to kill cars but here it is

I didnt take as many pics but mostly videos for our youtube channel Jiggs N Wheels

But I will talk through the process

So cat backs are relatively straight forward to install. With this one there is 3 bolts that mount to the end of the front pipe and then 5 exhaust hangers.

So first thing we done was lift the car and place jack stands under the car. Def make sure you have something to catch the car if it happens to fall.

Once you have that done there will be 4 10mm bolts and 2 plastic push clips to remove. Push clips will be on the sides in the wheel wells. One on each side

Once the tray is hanging spray some penetrating fluid on the bolts. We done that and it worked for 2/3 bolts. The other bolt we snapped off almost flush with the flange so that only means one thing. Drill it out as our other method would not work.

My buddy having a go at drilling hah as its a long process. Hardened steel takes a while. But use titanium bits for this if it happens to you. Use a small bit to start a hole so that you can use a bigger bit. Started off with 1/16 I believe and then went to a 3/8th. We completely drilled out the bolt and make sure the next one was long enough which it was.

Now for the next two. These where a bit easier. But we assumed with all the salt in out area it corroded the bolts to the back of the flange which we where right.

So to do this next part have a small propane torch and some water handy. We but a nut on backwards and put it in a few threads and then placed another nut on the right way so that it brings up on the first nut. Now this might also break the stud/bolt free. If not then heat up the bolt and then shock it with some water.

Then hammer on the outside nut and after a few hits the stud will break free. The youre done hah

Also dont forget to brace up the front pipe as it has quite a bit of movement

like so

So when I install the downpipe ill prob be going this route so I dont snap off any bolts as it seems to happen often on the downpipes.

Next issue I ran into was not having the exhaust hangers for when I done a muffler delete I either through them out or misplaced them. So i ordered some fron Torque Performance but for right now I needed something to brace the rear hangers.

So what we done was grab some pieces of 1/8th rubber and drilled out the hanger holes and doubled up the rubber to get me by. Again all this can be watched on our youtube channel which just launched and the video will be uploaded soon.

Now pics

Car is very dirty lol will get better pics and post up a video comparison

Love the exhaust so far. Its a little louder than muffler delete but its also a bit deeper so looking forward to the downpipe for sure.

 

[evans609]

PRL front pipe im getting dropped off tomorrow. Coated and heat wrapped

 

[evans609]

Hey,

Youtube channel has officially launched. Hope to see some people there!

Updates coming soon

https://youtu.be/glrQMl3nl1Y

 

[evans609]

Well finally got a little update. Been busy with work, bought another car (07 350z) and trying to finish my STi so havent had much time for the poor civic hah

Anyways gave it a little clean, threw some Indy 500s on (265/35/18) along with installed some Hawk Street 5.0 Pads and StopTech Rotors. Didnt get any pics of install as it was a messy and annoying job so ill do a little walk through.

Fronts where super easy, hardest part was getting the little Philips screw out as where I live there is alot of salt so the screw was corroded in. But some penetrating oil and hammer in a big Philips screw driver done the trick.

Either way its a fairly simple process for the fronts. Remove wheel, remove the two pins that hold in the bracket on the top of the pads. There is two big bolts on the back that need to be removed and one small 12mm I believe it was holding the brake line also has to be removed to allow some movability. Place caliper to the side and remove that screw. There is two little open holes that you can thread a bolt into to help remove the rotor from the hub.

Once rotor is off you can remove the old pads if you havent done so already. Use either a clamp or caliper tool you can press the pistons back in.

Once you have the pistons pushed in you can now clean the new rotor off with brake cleaner and place new rotor on the hub. You can use a lug nut to hold rotor in place. Reinstall caliper with big bolts first and then the bracket screw.

Before installing the new pads I always find it good to regrease the pins and clean up the shim if you didnt get new ones. Also place a small bit of grease on the back of the pad where the piston will apply.


Pic of the new tires (even tho they are dirty already)

So for the rears this is a bit more extensive. I would def recommend a scan tool that can place the car into brake maintenance mode.

Once the car is place in brake maintenance mode you can jack the rear of the car up. Remove wheels, then remove the little bracket on the outside of the caliper. There will be 2 bolts on the back that have to be removed. Once the caliper is free you can haul or pry the old pads out. Using a caliper tool or clamp again push the piston back but I was told not to twist the piston has it could damage it. Once the caliper is in you can install the new pads the same as the old ones came out and install the new rotor. Slide the caliper over the rotor and bolt back in place. I believe these bolts are around 115ft/lbs but better to look it up.

Now for my story on this. We put the car in brake maintenance and install the new pads and rotor but actually had to use a rubber mallet to get the caliper over the rotor which shouldnt be. It was hard to rotate the rotor as well so we thought that was odd and took it out of maintenance mode to check and see if it would engage. Not thinking about rhe other side being an inch and a half less in pad depth. Either way it though a light saying e brake not working properly. So we cleared the code and read the error number. When brake was engaged it was showing open ground and when the brake wasnt engaged it was showing e brake issue. So checked the actuator plug to see if any wires or prongs had come loose and nothing.

So we took the new pads out and put the new ones in the light/code cleared. So threw the car in maintenance mode again and done some research and all I could come up with was the pads where too thick or that the wire was damaged going to the actuator. So took the 4 pads, measured the depth and then using a big flat sander we sanded off about 0.5mm and reinstalled them.

Rotors moved freely but the light still came on. Drove it down the road and erased the code again and it worked fine. So now im at the point that when I engage the e brake it works but when I disengage the light comes back on and will go off after a while. Other way around it is to not disengage the e brake and just drive away so the car will disengage it by itself and then I get no light. So still hoping the pads are a little too thick but if it persists ill have to get a new plug perhaps.

 

[evans609]

Next some other little mods are the hood scoop overlay

The side vent overlay

the rear lower spoiler extension

and engine bay side plastic pieces (engine bay needs a clean I know hah)

 

[V3N0M_VZL4]

under the hood you have a lot of dirt is it because of something in particular? you can use the pressure washer in the last picture with degreaser lol.

 

[xXoVrKiLLXx]

You got my youtube sub brother keep up the good work!

 

[evans609]

under the hood you have a lot of dirt is it because of something in particular? you can use the pressure washer in the last picture with degreaser lol.

hahah def need too. Its because of the undercoating we use here. We have alot of salt on the roads in winter and it absolutely kills cars sadly

 

[evans609]

You got my youtube sub brother keep up the good work!

Thank you sir greatly appreciate it

 

[OrchidFc3]

hahah def need too. Its because of the undercoating we use here. We have alot of salt on the roads in winter and it absolutely kills cars sadly

Yeah definitely salt, my winter beaters are the same.

 

[evans609]

Yeah definitely salt, my winter beaters are the same.

I hate it haha salt destroys everything

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