Essential cooling mods?

boosted180sx

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Bloody Hell!
Ever look at the underside of the hood where those are shown as going?
Notice they are set on top in the picture not actually installed?
That looks like a project disaster just waiting to happen.
In fact it looks like you would have to do an aftermarket hood latch system to even make it work.
Damn- I wanted to like them too.
By the time you destroyed your hood you might as well have sucked it up and just bought the Varis....
https://www.civicx.com/threads/trackspecmotorsports-hood-louvers-fk8-specific.29226/
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JESFromASC

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Thank you for the follow up and clarifications.
My bad call on the positioning of the center vent I apologize.
Looks like it would sit well behind the hood latch and latch reinforcement?
PLEASE send some pictures of how things look on the underside.
It still looks to me like most of the hood is double walled so that must make things a bit difficult?

I'm very interested in these but having done the same to a Miata I know it is not a project for the faint of heart.
 

boosted180sx

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Thank you for the follow up and clarifications.
My bad call on the positioning of the center vent I apologize.
Looks like it would sit well behind the hood latch and latch reinforcement?
PLEASE send some pictures of how things look on the underside.
It still looks to me like most of the hood is double walled so that must make things a bit difficult?

I'm very interested in these but having done the same to a Miata I know it is not a project for the faint of heart.
thats not my car so you'd have to ask him. It's not that hard to cut the hood though. Just have to cut through the skeleton and the hood itself. It's not the same car but I've done it before on my S2000.
 

charleswrivers

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Thought of something else...

Not that it can't also cause an issue of increased wear.. but what about simply over driving the water pump through using a smaller pulley?

If you raise flow rate... more heat exchanger will occur both out of the engine into the coolant and from the coolant to atmosphere via the radiator. I know it's not as sexy as bigger radiators or hoods... but it it's sort of one if those things that can't not work (thats a double negative right there).

Q=mc(Th-Tc) (can't make dots sorry...)

Raise mass flow rate and the delta T will collapse... and we're trying to get the Th down. Assume Q stays the same because the engine is still making the same heat.

BTW... since c is the specific heat capacity... going 30/70 or 40/60 would also effect the delta T as you're changing the heat capacity of the fluid by changing the ratio. (shrug) The math works.
 


GeezR

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My copy of Grassroots Motorsports just arrived with the CTR as one of the cars on the cover. This lightly preped (AFAIK) track car participated in this year's annual Ultimate Track Car challenge. It came in 32nd and was the fastest FWD car and ran on 200 tread wear tires.They note: "There was no magic bullet for the cooling concerns at full boost, though, so the car remained best suited to a time attack format."
 

Arcam

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Hey man... navy nuke training taught me when I need more cooling... run the pumps faster.
Sounds good in theory but I suspect cavitation will play a part in tun the pump beyond specs.
 

charleswrivers

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Sounds good in theory but I suspect cavitation will play a part in tun the pump beyond specs.
It could. The system is already pressurized however. I'm not saying go wild with it, but there's probably room to grow. Raising the pressure would be a mitigation as well.
 

handsoffsam

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"There was no magic bullet for the cooling concerns at full boost, though, so the car remained best suited to a time attack format."
This. Big time. We're now going a few years into production and we still don't see any trickle down into amateur racing clubs (other than the one mentioned a few posts ago which has my attention), but they're pervasive in auto-x and time attack scene where it's all about the hero lap/run. Once I swallowed that pill, I enjoy the R for what it is.

Subscribed, I like OP's intent here.
 


d15b7

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What temps are people experiencing that would be over heating?

Coolant should not be hotter than 180-220
Oil should not be hotter than 220-230

Is this safe to assume? I only ask this because here in South Florida, it's been in the mid 90s lol....
I haven't tracked my CTR, as I have a purely track racecar for that (1995 EG with K24/20 frankenstien and BW EFR 7163 turbo). I've owned it since 1997 and it's been a racecar since 1999, first racing in H1 Honda Challenge (with a stock K20) and later converted to the K24/20 and turbo for GTA timeattack and hillclimbs etc). acceptable coolant temp is up to 220. at 235 the warning light comes on (hondata kpro controlled). at 240 I slow down and do cooldown laps to let it recover. acceptable oil temp is up to 260. at 280 I start to worry. at 300 I do cooldown laps. I have a large fluidyne oil cooler and a large radiator but in 90+ deg temps she will overheat in about 5 mins of hard laps. but typically thats 2-3 laps and thats all the tires are good for anyway (295-35-15 hoosier A7s). thats at about 500 whp level. I run 5w-40 Ardeca synth or Motul synth oil. oil looks great even after two weekends hitting 260 deg (shows no signs of real stress); after 2 weekends I change the oil and filter and its ready to go again.

I think the main issue with the CTR is air flow through the grill and through the radiator and exhausting out from under the hood. I had the same issues with my EG; gotta get the air in and out. I cut openings in it and ducted off the radiator and sealed it up so that air can't get around it and escape without going through the rad. that SCCA race guy that I saw at NJMP wasn't overheating and he had done the Ebay grill and cut holes in his hood and installed some cheap vents and he said that that had basically solved his overheating. he added the oil cooler to keep the oil temps below 280 and the turbo blanket because it helps with underhood temps.
 

d15b7

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My copy of Grassroots Motorsports just arrived with the CTR as one of the cars on the cover. This lightly preped (AFAIK) track car participated in this year's annual Ultimate Track Car challenge. It came in 32nd and was the fastest FWD car and ran on 200 tread wear tires.They note: "There was no magic bullet for the cooling concerns at full boost, though, so the car remained best suited to a time attack format."
hey man! my copy of GRM hasn't come yet! I was paddocked right next to the blue USR CTR; cool car! but one correction I was the fastest FWD there at the UTCC; mine is the white with blue/green livery old school EG hatch that was competing there too; I was on Hoosier A7s. my best lap on fri was a 2:03. my best lap on sat's 'dropout race' where they had the fastest 20 cars from fri compete was a 2:01.9. I *think* that the USR CTR did a 2:08 maybe?

BTW I was barely starting to overheating after 2 full laps (water temp at 230; oil was at 250 which is no issue). it was a pretty warm day though and VIR is a long fast track lots of full power. I had the boost turned down to its lowest setting of 15psi and about 440 whp for that event.
 

Akuto

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Yes. Here is a post from Facebook... the Honda FK8 civic R product review page

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Interesting.... Since it being a hatchback hood, I wonder if the lock mech would work with ours, or even that quick lock mech that they spoke of. Also curious why they went with the FK7 for the event rather than an FK8. Thank you for the info< i really do appreciate it
 

GeezR

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d15b7: I stand corrected! GRM credited you with fastest FWD car in the "open tire" category, and the CTR with fastest FWD in the "200-Treadwear Tire" category. They also note your times of 2:01 and 2:03, vs, the CTR's 2:08. You were 19th overall and you beat a lot of very fast cars, so big congratulations!

GRM also has an article about a factory prepped ready-to-race Civic SI that costs $52,500 directly from Honda. It just makes 220 hp (in "stock tune", hint-hint) but presumably has resolved the many shortcomings of the CTR in heavy track use. It weighs in at 2,450 lbs so has shed at least 600 lbs over stock. GRM got a quick lap of 2:11.388 in it at VIR on Hoosier race tires.
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