Engine Movement

Aoslo

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Hey guys! Back again unfortunately…
Today I was changing my oil and when I had my friend start the car with the hood up I noticed the engine moves back and forth excessively. I’m thinking it’s probably the motor mounts are starting to go. It doesn’t seem to move side to side at all. My question is, is there a way to check the mounts to determine if it’s just the rear or if it’s others too?

ps: for those of you who seen my negative fuel trim post, it’s still negative with long term fluctuating between -8 and -14. I have a data log if you want to see it I can email them.
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Chris_19Si

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I recall quite a bit of movement before upgrading my rear motor mount (RMM) to the Perrin inserts. There was still movement but, it felt a lot better. I then upgraded to a Hasport 82a RMM. The movement was much less now, but noise and vibration went up quite a bit. I then replaced the tranny mount and engine mount with Hasport 82a mounts. The noise and vibration went up quite a bit more, but the engine movement went way down. The car is much more responsive now.

I wouldn't be bothered by the engine movement unless you think the RMM is bad, or you want a more firm launch with less wheel hop. I would add the Perrin inserts as an early mod if you haven't modified your RMM yet. It's cheap and it adds quite a bit of firmness without adding all the noise and vibration. Only takes a few minutes with some basic tools. While you have the RMM out, you can inspect the condition of the rubber to make sure there are no cracks.

Other than the inspection step I just mentioned, you could find a newer Civic, set brakes on both cars to apply torque, then compare the engine movement side by side. You say excessive, but without comparing it to something similar this movement may be normal.
 
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Aoslo

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I recall quite a bit of movement before upgrading my rear motor mount (RMM) to the Perrin inserts. There was still movement but, it felt a lot better. I then upgraded to a Hasport 82a RMM. The movement was much less now, but noise and vibration went up quite a bit. I then replaced the tranny mount and engine mount with Hasport 82a mounts. The noise and vibration went up quite a bit more, but the engine movement went way down. The car is much more responsive now.

I wouldn't be bothered by the engine movement unless you think the RMM is bad, or you want a more firm launch with less wheel hop. I would add the Perrin inserts as an early mod if you haven't modified your RMM yet. It's cheap and it adds quite a bit of firmness without adding all the noise and vibration. Only takes a few minutes with some basic tools. While you have the RMM out, you can inspect the condition of the rubber to make sure there are no cracks.

Other than the inspection step I just mentioned, you could find a newer Civic, set brakes on both cars to apply torque, then compare the engine movement side by side. You say excessive, but without comparing it to something similar this movement may be normal.
Thanks for the response and info. I’ll give those Perrin inserts a shot and inspect the rubber when I take the mount off. From what I’ve seen within the last couple of days with other civics is that it isn’t as bad as I thought.
 

Chris_19Si

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You'll feel a significant improvement in how the car launches and each time you let the clutch out aggressively. The inserts also reduce wheel hop. If you think you need more stiffness beyond the inserts, beware of the extra noise and vibration. It's annoying. Your interior will rattle and your significant other will bitch more. My car has transformed more into a race car than a pleasant commuter. It's really good on the track, where all the mods make sense, but no longer comfortable.

What tune are you running?
 


Chris_19Si

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Clutch holding up?
 

Chris_19Si

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It's nice to have an aftermarket clutch so you have piece of mind on map 3. Sucks to add power and not to feel comfortable using it. Adding power seems to be what people go for first with these cars. Pretty cheap to pep it up, but these cars also turn really well with a good tire. Have you considered autocross? Really cheap fun, and our cars are very competitive on these short courses. Hardly any wear and tear.
 
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Aoslo

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I haven't. I was actually considering it down the road once I've got a little more financial security and finished modding the car. I have a good enough pair of summer tires (I will have to get winter tires as well living in MN) but down the road, I'll get higher end ones.
 

Chris_19Si

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I run the BFG gforce comp2 a/s tires all year in Ohio. They are great all around, and you don't have to mount winter tires every year. They do well in the snow, really good in the rain, and pretty good in the summer. Datalog shows about 1.1 g's in the dry and on city streets. In autocross a little better, and even more so when warmed up. I just got a set of dedicated wheels and tires for the track, so I won't be punishing my daily tires as much now. Might get more life out of them. I don't see the point of using summer tires to commute with. My commute isn't all that exciting.
 


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Aoslo

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I run the BFG gforce comp2 a/s tires all year in Ohio. They are great all around, and you don't have to mount winter tires every year. They do well in the snow, really good in the rain, and pretty good in the summer. Datalog shows about 1.1 g's in the dry and on city streets. In autocross a little better, and even more so when warmed up. I just got a set of dedicated wheels and tires for the track, so I won't be punishing my daily tires as much now. Might get more life out of them. I don't see the point of using summer tires to commute with. My commute isn't all that exciting.
hey handle well in the snow? How much did you pay for them? If that’s the case I might get them and avoid having to switch out tires every spring and fall. Hard to find one good enough for snow and ice yet good in summer and yet is durable and lasts.
 

Chris_19Si

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I got mine from tirerack for about $168/tire. They are in the small category for ultra high performance all season tires. Very few tires can do it all.
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