engine isnt making factory boost level

[dc2turbo]

I noticed a similar lack in performance recently, and checked my boost levels after seeing this thread. They were 2-3 bars from max, where I saw full bars when I initially bought the car.

I fully deactivated the vsc and traction control and am seeing full bars on the boost gauge at WOT.
There's a thread with instructions on how to fully deactivate vsc.

If the car notices you're going to lose traction, it will limit the power the engine produces, which I'm assuming leads to the lower boost levels. The only problem is you have to deactivate vsc ever time you start the car.

that has nothing to do with it. traction control will only kick on when tires are slipping. when it does kick on. it will either cut fuel or just lower the throttle plate position. Also the VSA light will flash when its on

are you seeing full bars the whole time or just near the redline?

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[nukeguy]

that has nothing to do with it. traction control will only kick on when tires are slipping. when it does kick on. it will either cut fuel or just lower the throttle plate position. Also the VSA light will flash when its on

are you seeing full bars the whole time or just near the redline?

I looked down at around 3500 rpm and it was at full bars from there through redline.

I only did a few short runs on my way home from work. I'm going to take a closer look and do some more testing this weekend to see if the vsa is makin any difference or not.

 

[dc2turbo]

I looked down at around 3500 rpm and it was at full bars from there through redline.

I only did a few short runs on my way home from work. I'm going to take a closer look and do some more testing this weekend to see if the vsa is makin any difference or not.

That will be interesting if it does. I did that before and it didnt help me at all.

Do one with vsa on , vsa off and VSA/TCS completely disable. Dont reset your ecu

 

[CEXT]

I looked down at around 3500 rpm and it was at full bars from there through redline.

I only did a few short runs on my way home from work. I'm going to take a closer look and do some more testing this weekend to see if the vsa is makin any difference or not.

How do you fully deactivate? Just press the button or is there another way?
I'm not full bars with the button pressed to off.

 

[Snoopyslr]

This thread is still going? Has anybody used a REAL boost gauge to confirm not hitting target yet?

This is a boost gauge.

This is NOT a boost gauge.

 

[dc2turbo]

This thread is still going? Has anybody used a REAL boost gauge to confirm not hitting target yet?

This is a boost gauge.

This is NOT a boost gauge.

dont need a guage with datalogging with KTuner or FlashPro or any obd port reader. I'm reading it from the ECU. The wastegate is controlled by the ECU. The engine has two boost measure sensors.

to disable VSA
1. Turn car on
2. Parking brake off
3. Press and hold brake pedal
4. Turn traction control on and off
5. Release brake pedal
6. Parking brake on
7. Turn traction control on and off
8. Press and hold brake pedal
9. Turn traction control on and off
10. Traction control light should be solid and another light blinking

 

[dc2turbo]

The stock ECU has a PA sensor that reduces boost as it senses a gain in altitude. This can be tuned with FlashPro.

The 10th gen Civic engine control is torque based. Throttle pedal position indicates torque request. Torque is generated by altering:

• Ignition timing
• Wastegate position (boost)
• Throttle plate angle

There are times where less boost with more ignition timing will make more torque and power than more boost with less ignition timing. So, don't get too hung up on the boost level.

Also as stated here that it's normal that the boost drops. As knock control settles down, it will lower the boost and run more IGN for more power

 

[Snoopyslr]

dont need a guage with datalogging with KTuner or FlashPro or any obd port reader. I'm reading it from the ECU. The wastegate is controlled by the ECU. The engine has two boost measure sensors.

Guess you missed the joke. I'm not reading 5 pages in this, but people were saying they aren't getting full boost because the "gauge" on the dash wasn't full bars.

 

[CEXT]

This thread is still going? Has anybody used a REAL boost gauge to confirm not hitting target yet?

This is a boost gauge.

This is NOT a boost gauge.

I understand it's not an accurate boost gauge, but it is a good relative boost gauge, ie. if you are in idle, no bars; part throttle, some bars; full throttle, more bars. So from that standpoint, more bars means more boost. If the car is not displaying as many bars as before, I'm pretty sure the boost is less too.

 

[dc2turbo]

I understand it's not an accurate boost gauge, but it is a good relative boost gauge, ie. if you are in idle, no bars; part throttle, some bars; full throttle, more bars. So from that standpoint, more bars means more boost. If the car is not displaying as many bars as before, I'm pretty sure the boost is less too.

its accurate imo. full bars is 14-15 psi or more - 2 empty bars is 10-11psi - 3empty bar is 9-10psi according to my logs

 

[CEXT]

its accurate imo. full bars is 14-15 psi or more - 2 empty bars is 10-11psi - 3empty bar is 9-10psi according to my logs

Then I'm pretty sure it is measuring boost. It would be silly for honda to put a gauge there that randomly displayed bars that meant nothing. The only difference between it an a "real" boost gauge is the lack of numbers and the fact that it only displays boost in incremental bars rather than a continuous range.

 

[nukeguy]

So I tried some runs with vsa on, off, and vsa/traction control completely disabled and there was no difference between the three settings.

Saw full boost during some runs, only above 5000 rpm or so, and 1 bar from the top in other runs, regardless of vsa setting.

So it looks like a general improvement over what I had been seeing the past month or so, which happens to coincide with an average temp increase of about 10-15 F the past week or so (~55-60 F compared to 40-50 F the previous few weeks).

Not sure if or why this would change anything, but it's an observation.

Also, not sure if anyone else has had this problem, but during spirited WOT driving I've noticed a plastic/rubbery burning smell, so I'm going to have the tranny checked out soon. Is there a dipstick where I can check the fluid or so I just have to bring it in to a dealer?

 

[Ryude]

You will see varied boost levels because of how the ECU controls boost, timing, etc. It commands torque, not boost. It will try to add timing first, then boost, in order to meet the torque requested. At least that's how it was on my last two cars.

So it's normal to see boost vary depending on climate, altitude, fuel quality, etc.

 

[bubbaleenc]

Also, not sure if anyone else has had this problem, but during spirited WOT driving I've noticed a plastic/rubbery burning smell, so I'm going to have the tranny checked out soon. Is there a dipstick where I can check the fluid or so I just have to bring it in to a dealer?

When I drove mine up some of the most challenging mountain roads (very steep inclines and tight curves where trucks are forbidden... FUN!) I had that same smell at first. Either I got used to it or whatever it was burned off. I haven't smelled it since.

 

[CEXT]

You will see varied boost levels because of how the ECU controls boost, timing, etc. It commands torque, not boost. It will try to add timing first, then boost, in order to meet the torque requested. At least that's how it was on my last two cars.

So it's normal to see boost vary depending on climate, altitude, fuel quality, etc.

I actually think my boost became less after running on 91 octane. If what you say is true for the civic, then maybe the car doesn't need as much boost because the higher octane facilitates more advanced timing. Hmm...maybe higher octane doesn't make more power in this case...

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