Enable subwoofer on premium sound system

Fabio_Bg

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Goodmorning everyone
In my Civic Sport plus EU (I'm Italian) with premium sound system does not have a subwoofer as for the US market. (I wonder why....)
In the amplifier obviously the two pins (subw + and subw-) are not wired.
I tried to temporarily connect a sub speaker and the output is not activated.
Anyone know if it is possible to enable the subwoofer on the main unit?
I want to add a subwoofer under the seat and connect it to the amplifier output in order to keep as much of the original system as possible.
Thanks to all in advance.
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dstix747

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Goodmorning everyone
In my Civic Sport plus EU (I'm Italian) with premium sound system does not have a subwoofer as for the US market. (I wonder why....)
In the amplifier obviously the two pins (subw + and subw-) are not wired.
I tried to temporarily connect a sub speaker and the output is not activated.
Anyone know if it is possible to enable the subwoofer on the main unit?
I want to add a subwoofer under the seat and connect it to the amplifier output in order to keep as much of the original system as possible.
Thanks to all in advance.
If your system doesn't include a sub, the channel is not active. For my system, there is a SUBWOOFER adjustment in the audio settings. Unless you have that, there is no message to the OEM AMP telling it to use the output. However, the sub bass is still contained in the output signal to each speaker. Unfortunately, you can't just bypass the Honda amp because all volume and level controls are passed to it as CANBUS messages. IN other words, the head unit knobs and settings don't adjust the head unit line out to the amplifier like it does with non-amplified systems. The messages tell the amplifier to adjust the output signal.

Most people use a signal processor and tap the sub-bass off the left front speaker channel, then feed a powered sub from the signal processor. For a sub-only install, the DSP of choice is typically the Audio Control L2CI.

AudioControl LC2i (Black) 2-channel line output converter for adding amps to your factory system at Crutchfield

You feed the output of the DSP to the power amp of choice for your powered sub. There are a bunch of HOW TO videos on Youtube and threads on how to do it in this site. If you just want the sub bass added to the sound field, and are happy with the "premium" door speakers, then the LC2I is the way to go. You'll still want a powered sub with at least 100-200W to hold it's own against the door speakers.

I have a JL Audio FIX-86 DSP that grabs all OEM amp outputs and converts them to line out levels that feed my JL amplifier. I needed extra power to drive my Alpine door speakers.
 
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Fabio_Bg

Fabio_Bg

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If your system doesn't include a sub, the channel is not active. For my system, there is a SUBWOOFER adjustment in the audio settings. Unless you have that, there is no message to the OEM AMP telling it to use the output. However, the sub bass is still contained in the output signal to each speaker. Unfortunately, you can't just bypass the Honda amp because all volume and level controls are passed to it as CANBUS messages. IN other words, the head unit knobs and settings don't adjust the head unit line out to the amplifier like it does with non-amplified systems. The messages tell the amplifier to adjust the output signal.

La maggior parte delle persone utilizza un processore di segnale e preleva il sub-basso dal canale dell'altoparlante anteriore sinistro, quindi alimenta un subwoofer alimentato dal processore di segnale. Per un'installazione solo secondaria, il DSP di scelta è in genere Audio Control L2CI.

AudioControl LC2i (nero) convertitore di uscita di linea a 2 canali per aggiungere amplificatori al sistema di fabbrica a Crutchfield

Alimenta l'uscita del DSP all'amplificatore di potenza scelto per il tuo subwoofer amplificato. Ci sono un sacco di video HOW TO su Youtube e discussioni su come farlo in questo sito. Se vuoi solo che il subwoofer si aggiunga al campo sonoro e sei soddisfatto degli altoparlanti per porte "premium", allora l'LC2I è la strada da percorrere. Avrai comunque bisogno di un subwoofer amplificato con almeno 100-200 W per resistere agli altoparlanti della porta.

Ho un DSP JL Audio FIX-86 che cattura tutte le uscite dell'amplificatore OEM e le converte in livelli di linea che alimentano il mio amplificatore JL. Avevo bisogno di potenza extra per pilotare i miei altoparlanti per porte Alpine.
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If your system doesn't include a sub, the channel is not active. For my system, there is a SUBWOOFER adjustment in the audio settings. Unless you have that, there is no message to the OEM AMP telling it to use the output. However, the sub bass is still contained in the output signal to each speaker. Unfortunately, you can't just bypass the Honda amp because all volume and level controls are passed to it as CANBUS messages. IN other words, the head unit knobs and settings don't adjust the head unit line out to the amplifier like it does with non-amplified systems. The messages tell the amplifier to adjust the output signal.

Most people use a signal processor and tap the sub-bass off the left front speaker channel, then feed a powered sub from the signal processor. For a sub-only install, the DSP of choice is typically the Audio Control L2CI.

AudioControl LC2i (Black) 2-channel line output converter for adding amps to your factory system at Crutchfield

You feed the output of the DSP to the power amp of choice for your powered sub. There are a bunch of HOW TO videos on Youtube and threads on how to do it in this site. If you just want the sub bass added to the sound field, and are happy with the "premium" door speakers, then the LC2I is the way to go. You'll still want a powered sub with at least 100-200W to hold it's own against the door speakers.

I have a JL Audio FIX-86 DSP that grabs all OEM amp outputs and converts them to line out levels that feed my JL amplifier. I needed extra power to drive my Alpine door speakers.
Hello dstix747
Thanks for the quick and detailed reply.
Unfortunately in the poor eq present in the connect there is no slide for the subwoofer.
I was looking for a way to enable it. But given the lost battle with the dealership and Honda IT for clarification on the 3D Sound module, I think it is utopian to ask to enable the control for the subwoofer.
 

dstix747

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Hello dstix747
Thanks for the quick and detailed reply.
Unfortunately in the poor eq present in the connect there is no slide for the subwoofer.
I was looking for a way to enable it. But given the lost battle with the dealership and Honda IT for clarification on the 3D Sound module, I think it is utopian to ask to enable the control for the subwoofer.
You'll be happier with an aftermarket amp and sub. The Honda sub isn't powered at all, so the output is not amplified any more than one of the door speakers would be (I believe 40W at full volume) and I couldn't even tell it was active. The basic signal wouldn't drive any type of real powered sub without the extra push.
 

MrWaYne

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this audio signal from the honda amp for the subwoofer output isnt great anyway and barely gives you strong bass. (just something between 30-50hz)

i tapped into the audio signal of the front speakers, which gives you full bass down to 30hz.
dont use the rear speakers, their signal is heavily filtered and has barely bass.

i set my subwoofers frequency range to 30-80hz. it fades out completely at 100hz.
 

Bob_L

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You'll be happier with an aftermarket amp and sub. The Honda sub isn't powered at all, so the output is not amplified any more than one of the door speakers would be (I believe 40W at full volume) and I couldn't even tell it was active. The basic signal wouldn't drive any type of real powered sub without the extra push.
What dstix said. The premium sub is terrible. It had less bass than the oem door speakers in my cheapie Nissan Versa.
 

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this audio signal from the honda amp for the subwoofer output isnt great anyway and barely gives you strong bass. (just something between 30-50hz)

i tapped into the audio signal of the front speakers, which gives you full bass down to 30hz.
dont use the rear speakers, their signal is heavily filtered and has barely bass.

i set my subwoofers frequency range to 30-80hz. it fades out completely at 100hz.
this audio signal from the honda amp for the subwoofer output isnt great anyway and barely gives you strong bass. (just something between 30-50hz)

i tapped into the audio signal of the front speakers, which gives you full bass down to 30hz.
dont use the rear speakers, their signal is heavily filtered and has barely bass.

i set my subwoofers frequency range to 30-80hz. it fades out completely at 100hz.
i tapped into sub outs…sucks…gonna listen to your advice. thank you
 
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