Eibach Pro + Wheels?

[ObsidionXI]

"Tuner" lugnuts generally get run down just like any other lugnut. Sometimes they will have a specific maximum torque spec, or require a specific socket, but I've never had an issue with them in my experience.

If you exercise caution not to damage the finish of the wheels or the nuts, an impact can do it... However, you really should pick up a torque wrench to check and set the final torque, regardless of your primary method of running down the fasteners. They aren't expensive, and are much less likely to cause damage to the wheels, lugnuts, or lug bolts. Even a $20 Harbor Freight (or don't you have Princess Auto up there?) torque wrench will do the job.

That said, another good alternative for use with impact guns is a set of torque-limiting extensions, also known as "torque sticks". They're basically socket extensions that are tempered in such a way that they will deflect at predetermined torque loads in order to run down a fastener to a specified torque and (ideally) no further. I don't use them myself, but a friend of mine does, and he hasn't had a wheel come flying off.

I'm old-fashioned (or maybe paranoid?) and I run down my lugnuts manually and torque them down in stages in the appropriate star pattern with a digital torque wrench. I hand-start the nuts and torque them in sequence to 40ftlb, then in sequence again to 60ftlb, and then in sequence once more to the final 80ftlb factory specification. It only adds a few minutes to the overall process, but I know it isn't for everybody.

Yeah, I might be a little old fashioned as well if it were to come to these types of wheels. I do have quite a few tools in my garage, including a Torque Wrench, so that shouldn't be a problem. I'd probably just settle for hand tightening, and finish off with the wrench once it sits on the ground. Considering aftermarket wheels are a sort of investment in pretty looks, I'd like to keep them pretty as long as possible. It's what I initially though, that is how it should be done, I guess I just like confirmation on many aspects of things I don't usually do, just to be on the safer side.

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[ObsidionXI]

Since we're on the subject of aftermarket wheel accessories, you should also pick up a set of hubcentric rings if the seller that you purchase your wheels from doesn't include them. Aftermarket wheels tend to have hub bores that are larger than OEM sizing so that they can fit a variety of makes and models, and hubcentric rings will fill the gap and ensure that the wheel is centered properly when you install it. They aren't strictly required, but they're good insurance! Be sure to get aluminum hubcentric rings. They're usually only like $15-$20 or so for a set, and they don't have the potential to melt like polymer rings do. Your car has a 64.1mm hub bore diameter, and I believe that those Superspeed wheels you've posted have a 73.1mm hub bore, so these rings should be perfect for you.

Just out of curiosity. The Hubcentric rings are installed / seated in the wheel itself before putting it on the car? I've never done any, so I'm curious to understand the fitment/install process.

 

[LBP]

Just out of curiosity. The Hubcentric rings are installed / seated in the wheel itself before putting it on the car? I've never done any, so I'm curious to understand the fitment/install process.

It’s best to set them into the hub bore of the wheel first, yes.

 

[ObsidionXI]

18x9.5 is about the maximum that you can run without modification, depending on offset. +38 to +45 offset in this size is generally considered to be safe, even on most lowered setups. Also keep in mind that even with identical size specs, different brands/models of tire will have different section and tread width measurements which can have an effect on whether or not you will rub. In other words, some tires are narrow for their advertised size and are less likely to rub on aggressive fitment setups, vs others that are wide for their sizing and are more likely to rub. I personally recommend 18x9.5+45 with 265/35R18 tires if you're looking to maximize width and keep the same flush fitment that you currently have, without requiring modification such as rolling fenders.

So I got a set of Superspeed 18x9.5 +38. Going to get a set of Continentals, since I was able to find some for a decent price after all, and would be better off in the long run for wear.... I'm nervous as hell.... and scared.... Got some hubcentric rings, and lugs.... They don't have +45 on this setup... 38 is the max they offered.

 

[LBP]

So I got a set of Superspeed 18x9.5 +38. Going to get a set of Continentals, since I was able to find some for a decent price after all, and would be better off in the long run for wear.... I'm nervous as hell.... and scared.... Got some hubcentric rings, and lugs.... They don't have +45 on this setup... 38 is the max they offered.

Congrats on the purchase! I bet you'll love the setup. I can't speak with authority on your specific lowering spring setup, but you should be safe at +38. It'll poke out 7mm more than an equivalent+45 setup. If you do run into an issue with rubbing, you will want to look into adding more camber. I haven't looked into this very much, but I believe you can remove the "camber pins" at the top of your front struts which will allow greater camber in the front. You'd want to get an alignment when adjusting camber, of course. Search around the forums and you should be able to find more info.

 

[ObsidionXI]

Congrats on the purchase! I bet you'll love the setup. I can't speak with authority on your specific lowering spring setup, but you should be safe at +38. It'll poke out 7mm more than an equivalent+45 setup. If you do run into an issue with rubbing, you will want to look into adding more camber. I haven't looked into this very much, but I believe you can remove the "camber pins" at the top of your front struts which will allow greater camber in the front. You'd want to get an alignment when adjusting camber, of course. Search around the forums and you should be able to find more info.

Ok, so, I'm getting anxi. I'm being probably paranoid.... but I'm afraid that I might have picked the wrong size..... I'm thinking I might change to 18x8.5 +40 instead......, I'm looking through the info on this thread, and I'm a little confused...... The dealer at where I order them from says that 265/35's on my setup (dropped 1" with 18x9.5 +38) will probably rub. If I were stock suspension, that'd be different..... so, now I'm questioning myself, before picking them up.... maybe I should reconsider.....

I hate being a Libra....

 

[LBP]

Ok, so, I'm getting anxi. I'm being probably paranoid.... but I'm afraid that I might have picked the wrong size..... I'm thinking I might change to 18x8.5 +40 instead......, I'm looking through the info on this thread, and I'm a little confused...... The dealer at where I order them from says that 265/35's on my setup (dropped 1" with 18x9.5 +38) will probably rub. If I were stock suspension, that'd be different..... so, now I'm questioning myself, before picking them up.... maybe I should reconsider.....

I hate being a Libra....

You very well might rub with that offset but don't stress. Check around on FitmentIndustries gallery to see what others are running. Play with the search filters! Maybe you'll put your mind at ease. Many of the examples there are Type Rs, which are a bit wider than other models and can be ignored, but there are several non-Type Rs you can check out. Here's a Si running the same wheel and tire dimensions as you, with Eibach Pro-Kit springs, and he reports no rub or scrub and hasn't trimmed anything or rolled fenders . If it works on a Si, it should work on your sport hatch. He is running pretty aggressive camber, though, so although it isn't stated, he's probably running camber arms or plates etc. There are multiple examples with similar setups to what you have.

Here's another thing that may hopefully put your mind at ease: the Conti DWS06+ you selected have a 8.9" measured tread width according to TireRack. The Si in that example I linked to above is running Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+ which have a measured tread width of 9.6", and he doesn't report any rub, but again it's probably due to his camber.

EDIT: Here's another Si with a similar setup - On Eibach Pro-Kit springs like you, but slightly more aggressive +35 wheels and Falken Azenis RT615K+ which measure 9.5" tread width. Still no trimming or rolling, seems to be running pretty mild camber, and he says no rub. There’s another car on there with identical wheels as this with 255/35 that DOES rub, but he is on BC Racing BR extreme low spec coilovers and so has a much more aggressive drop (2” minimum!).

All that said, if you just can't stand the suspense, then I really do recommend playing it safe and finding a wheel that you like in 18x9.5 with a +45 offset, OR switch to 255/35R18 tires instead, which shouldn't rub with your 1" drop. Otherwise, start from scratch and stick with stock tire dimensions on a 18x8 or 18x8.5 wheel and an aggressive offset like +30 to +40 to keep your current flush look.

 

[ObsidionXI]

You very well might rub with that offset but don't stress. Check around on FitmentIndustries gallery to see what others are running. Play with the search filters! Maybe you'll put your mind at ease. Many of the examples there are Type Rs, which are a bit wider than other models and can be ignored, but there are several non-Type Rs you can check out. Here's a Si running the same wheel and tire dimensions as you, with Eibach Pro-Kit springs, and he reports no rub or scrub and hasn't trimmed anything or rolled fenders . If it works on a Si, it should work on your sport hatch. He is running pretty aggressive camber, though, so although it isn't stated, he's probably running camber arms or plates etc. There are multiple examples with similar setups to what you have.

Here's another thing that may hopefully put your mind at ease: the Conti DWS06+ you selected have a 8.9" measured tread width according to TireRack. The Si in that example I linked to above is running Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+ which have a measured tread width of 9.6", and he doesn't report any rub, but again it's probably due to his camber.

EDIT: Here's another Si with a similar setup - On Eibach Pro-Kit springs like you, but slightly more aggressive +35 wheels and Falken Azenis RT615K+ which measure 9.5" tread width. Still no trimming or rolling, seems to be running pretty mild camber, and he says no rub. There’s another car on there with identical wheels as this with 255/35 that DOES rub, but he is on BC Racing BR extreme low spec coilovers and so has a much more aggressive drop (2” minimum!).

All that said, if you just can't stand the suspense, then I really do recommend playing it safe and finding a wheel that you like in 18x9.5 with a +45 offset, OR switch to 255/35R18 tires instead, which shouldn't rub with your 1" drop. Otherwise, start from scratch and stick with stock tire dimensions on a 18x8 or 18x8.5 wheel and an aggressive offset like +30 to keep your current flush look.

18x8.5 on +40.... That's what I've been thinking of going to. Less aggressive, but safer fitment I believe..... Stock size tires should fit nicely, and look decent as well.... question is do I still look at the same tires you suggested, or should I perchance look at something else ?>

 

[LBP]

18x8.5 on +40.... That's what I've been thinking of going to. Less aggressive, but safer fitment I believe..... Stock size tires should fit nicely, and look decent as well.... question is do I still look at the same tires you suggested, or should I perchance look at something else ?>

That sizing should work perfectly and have slightly less aggressive fitment compared to your current setup with spacers. If you're interested in getting new tires instead of mounting your existing ones on the new wheels, then, sure, the tires I suggested should be available in 235/40R18 and be a fair amount cheaper than they are in 265/35R18.

 

[ObsidionXI]

That sizing should work perfectly and have slightly less aggressive fitment compared to your current setup with spacers. If you're interested in getting new tires instead of mounting your existing ones on the new wheels, then, sure, the tires I suggested should be available in 235/40R18 and be a fair amount cheaper than they are in 265/35R18.

That's exactly what I was looking at. The gentleman I was talking to about the new wheel setup from the shop suggested, that if I really wanted, I could always add a 5mm spacer if i wanted to poke out a bit more. Superspeed wheels don't have that many options in the wheels setups when it comes to different offsets compared to many other brands. Still, I like the look of their wheel. I appreciate your input, and comprehensive knowledge on this subject matter yet again.

 

[mikebtw]

Not sure how it is for the hatch, but I rubbed in the front badly with 18x9.5 +38 on 255/35/18. Unfortunately had to sell the wheels and go back to stock. The rubbing was so bad it popped out my side markers. Keep in mind I do have the coupe, so it might be different for you. I'd like others to know about my mistake so they don't waste their money.

 

[LBP]

Not sure how it is for the hatch, but I rubbed in the front badly with 18x9.5 +38 on 255/35/18. Unfortunately had to sell the wheels and go back to stock. The rubbing was so bad it popped out my side markers. Keep in mind I do have the coupe, so it might be different for you. I'd like others to know about my mistake so they don't waste their money.

Interesting, I’ve seen some people claim only a few issues at that sizing, not quite as severe as what you experienced. Very good to know, and reinforces my recommendation to specifically stick with +45 offset on 18x9.5.

 

[mikebtw]

Interesting, I’ve seen some people claim only a few issues at that sizing, not quite as severe as what you experienced. Very good to know, and reinforces my recommendation to specifically stick with +45 offset on 18x9.5.

The main issue is the front wheels. 9.5 is very wide, which I didn't know because this was my first set of wheels I've ever bought. There's not enough natural camber in the front to tuck the 9.5 wide wheel in. If you were lower, it would easily work.

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