Eibach front sway bar.

[hawk02]

Has anyone got the 29mm front sway bar on their sport HB? Big difference? What is the OEM mm for the front one?

Sponsored

 

[hawk02]

WOW, nothing,,,,hmmmm

 

[TrentonSport]

I don't think anyone has attempted to swap the front sway bar yet since it is a pretty in-depth modification. It isn't as simple as the rear sway bar or a front strut bar.

 

[bembol]

I only upgraded the FSB once, got the Eibach kit back with my 2002 Acura RSX Premium. I can't recall any significant improvements, that my FTSB & RSB set up is more than enough.

Putting the money instead on High Performance summer tires is smarter move.

 

[hawk02]

I don't think anyone has attempted to swap the front sway bar yet since it is a pretty in-depth modification. It isn't as simple as the rear sway bar or a front strut bar.

That's why I was asking.......

 

[TrentonSport]

That's why I was asking.......

Well since you replied to you're own thread since no one was answering i figured i would lol

 

[Hatchy]

I've had aftermarket front sway bars on two similar chassis cars (FWD, MacPherson strut front, multi-link trailing arm rear) and can describe the feeling if you want.

I don't know how much difference that specific bar will make on this specific car.

 

[Design]

Front ARB would be the very last upgrade I'd consider on FWD. It can help on strut-oriented setups where front camber may not increase dramatically under compression. In turn, it can help maximize the contact patch/grip by limiting how much the body/strut/tire leans or de-cambers in a corner. That said, the wrong front ARB can completely ruin the car's balance.

My recommendation: Tires > rear ARB > *

 

[joshstew94]

I actually just installed the front sway bar. It was an in depth mod because you have to drop the whole front subframe and remove the steering rack. But with a lift it’s pretty easy. And I’m not sure if it’s a placebo or what but I feel like my car handles better. Definitely a lot stiffer in the front end.

 

[3925blue]

In my last car, my Mazda3, I only did the rear bar because the front was already stiff enough for anything but the very stickiest of tires. IMHO, one would only really want to increase front roll stiffness if you are planning on running significantly stickier and/or wider rubber than OE, or else it will just push more understeer.

So if you do plan those things, wider wheels and high end summer tires, then it may well be exactly what you need.

 

[L8apex]

I’ll be installing the Whiteline front bar one of these weekends. It’ll be on the ground so I’ll take my time with it. I’ve done it on a lift and it’s a lot easier esp. with a subframe jack.

But it’s not impossible on the ground. Just make sure you don’t turn the steering wheel after you disconnect it from the rack, you might damage the cable reel if you install it 360 degrees from where you removed it. Otherwise everything’s remove and reinstall in reverse order.

 

[Hatchy]

The reasons someone would want to increase front roll stiffness are turn-in response and handling predictability.

It's much easier to toss a car that's tight all around. I've had a Progress rear sway bar on my hatchback for a while now and gotten used to it, but the front end still leaps into the air when you make a quick lane change at speed. The car is out of phase with itself when you want to go straight again, because the rear settles back to normal faster than the front. That's a difficult feeling to describe. My other cars with stiffer springs and/or bigger sway bars in the front didn't act like that. I'm trying to not put stiff springs on this car and ruin the nice ride, so I'm now considering a front sway bar change.

I never have understeer or oversteer on public roads because I don't want to wreck the car. Decent all season tires are plenty grippy. I'm just modding this car to make it feel how I want. On a track, and especially with racing-oriented summer tires or R-comps, my stiffer cars were more fun. When the back end slides, you can catch it. It's usually not the fastest way around a corner, but sometimes it's fun. On cars with big rear sway bars and soft front ends, they would just spin out and I couldn't catch it. It's like the momentum of the back overpowers the front. That's not fun. All the cars could understeer or oversteer at different points if you gave them the wrong inputs.

 

[Hatchy]

I hadn't heard of the whiteline until now. I wonder how that compares to the 27x4.5 tubular from the Si. I've also not seen any information on the wall thickness of the 29mm tubular eibach.

http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=BHF97Z
This seems to indicate that it could be 27mm solid. Even if it's tubular, at least it's adjustable. Whiteline describes their 2 position bars as having a nominal setting and a +1mm setting.



Edit: After playing with a calculator, I think a 29x4.5 would be close enough to the same as a 27 solid. 27 solid is maybe 25% stiffer than 27x4.5. Lots of guesswork on arm length and such. I could be way off.

 

[Hatchy]

I found a video saying they have a Type R bar that's also 27mm. Surely that's solid, because the factory one for the Type R is 29x5.0. Maybe they set it up as one position is softer than factory and the other is slightly stiffer. Whiteline has been known to do that on other cars.

Anyway, the Whiteline looks like a nice upgrade for regular civics. I might get one.

 

[3925blue]

Eibach is one of those companies that will actually put together a system. They sell their f&r combo and proKit as all working very well together, whether you get the base, or Si fitment. I would put money on them making a set that is fun, neutral and moderately stiffer than OE, without compromising the range of the OE dampers.

Sponsored