Drop In Subwoofer For Coupe Rear Deck (Semi-Custom Bracket)

[TonyTheTiger57]

No, it was touching it, so I bent the rods away from it.

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[Kikonio2]

Link to STL file.

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AiSx6xaZeeRId-_kTPftI5i9b-4

Maybe too much to ask but what kind of material did you pick? Also, I really know nothing about 3D printing but my friend who is helping me print is asking if there is a 3D file.

 

[dirty_civic]

Maybe too much to ask but what kind of material did you pick? Also, I really know nothing about 3D printing but my friend who is helping me print is asking if there is a 3D file.

The link has the STL file. It works great. If your friends printer can't fit make it as one piece, they will need to slice it in half.

 

[cjmies]

Maybe too much to ask but what kind of material did you pick? Also, I really know nothing about 3D printing but my friend who is helping me print is asking if there is a 3D file.

I used ASA. The link above is for the STL 3D file.

 

[Zavage]

The OEM subwoofer is 2 ohm, and the OEM amp is 2 ohm stable which allows it to deliver a bit more power to the subwoofer than the rest of the speakers, which are rated at 4 ohm.

How sure are you about the 2 ohm OEM subwoofer?
Is there a sticker which says "2 ohm"?

Because i'm planning to disconnect the wires from the OEM subwoofer and wire it to an stand-alone enclosured subwoofer in the trunk with about 200watts rpm and 2 or 4 ohm.
So i don't have to bother with the infinite waffle bs.

 

[JT Si]

How sure are you about the 2 ohm OEM subwoofer?
Is there a sticker which says "2 ohm"?

Because i'm planning to disconnect the wires from the OEM subwoofer and wire it to an stand-alone enclosured subwoofer in the trunk with about 200watts rpm and 2 or 4 ohm.
So i don't have to bother with the infinite waffle bs.

1) I measured the impedence of the stock unit
2) I've been running a 2 ohm subwoofer config off the factory amp since I started this thread with zero issues of any kind.
3) other, more knowledgeable people have tested the amp in 1, 2 and 4 ohm configs and the amp shuts down from thermal overload are 1 ohm, but functions normally at 2 and 4 ohm.

I can't remember if it was in this thread or not but I found the datasheet for the amplifier chips from TI they use, and they are rated for 2 and 4 ohm use. Unfortunately you won't get more than ~70 watts out of the amp at 2 ohms.

Edit: because I know this means more than a random guy on the internet, here's an except from the factory service manual:

 

[Zavage]

Thank you for the detailed information.

i thought the OEM amp powers the sub atleast with 100 watts and the OEM sub is just undersized.

Nevertheless, i will try it with a stand alone enclosed subwoofer with > 100 watt rms and 2 ohm powered by the OEM amp.
My guess is that it's probably not the punch you want to hear but it's the easiest way to upgrade.
Second step would be the upgrade of the OEM sub like you did.
Third step would be an external amp + sub and wiring part.

 

[Doc_Mello]

Add me to the list of Drop Kicker modders! Was able to complete this in a few hours total, most of which was spent creating the templates for the Dynamat.

See my Build Thread for full details. Thanks to @JT Si for the write up and info, and to @cjmies for the free 3D mount bracket file!

 

[JT Si]

Add me to the list of Drop Kicker modders! Was able to complete this in a few hours total, most of which was spent creating the templates for the Dynamat.

See my Build Thread for full details. Thanks to @JT Si for the write up and info, and to @cjmies for the free 3D mount bracket file!

It's a much better mod now that there's a 3D printable bracket available. Looks really good!

 

[Doc_Mello]

It's a much better mod now that there's a 3D printable bracket available. Looks really good!

Agreed.

This mod + Dynamat + Viper4Android =

 

[Zavage]

What do you think about the sub?
How is the performance vs OEM sub? Like in the lower frequency, kick bass, etc?

 

[Doc_Mello]

What do you think about the sub?
How is the performance vs OEM sub? Like in the lower frequency, kick bass, etc?

So, I cannot speak only to the quality of the Kicker sub over OEM because I introduced another variable: Dynamat. In essence, I cannot report my experience as an experiment, but rather as a case—control. Just FYI.

Now, that said, I love it! The sub is much more pronounced at low freqs, and especially low volumes. When I crank it up, there’s no audible distortion, everything hits solidly, and at higher volumes the EQ begins to balance out. I use Viper4Android for EQ and bass boost, so, at lower cruising volumes, the Kicker is undeniably along for the ride, especially with hip hop, which is known for being bass-heavy. It sounds amazing, IMO. Best system I’ve had for the $$$. Think of this as an OEM+ upgrade.

 

[Zavage]

Thanks.
So hardware wise you only changed the sub (+ dynamat) and not the other speakers?
I'm still looking for the 465 watts in my civic which Honda sold me
My dad have a Volvo S40 with just the medium system (w/o sub, 200 watt at max) and is far superior even in the low freq.
Maybe Viper4Android brings me a bit more of the lost power

 

[Doc_Mello]

Thanks.
So hardware wise you only changed the sub (+ dynamat) and not the other speakers?
I'm still looking for the 465 watts in my civic which Honda sold me
My dad have a Volvo S40 with just the medium system (w/o sub, 200 watt at max) and is far superior even in the low freq.
Maybe Viper4Android brings me a bit more of the lost power

I changed the front woofers + Dynamted the doors, BUT I was able to dial in everything to hear the sound BEFORE I installed the sub. So, I was speaking from that as my baseline (no pun intended ).

Yeah, the 450 is spread out. I believe JT Si discovered that only about 70W goes to the rear sub alone. Not a lot at all, but even the sub upgrade is worth it for the cost. The sub itself is, like, $80, and I’m sure you can find someone on here to 3D-print the mounting bracket for you for freeeeeee.

V4A revamps the whole system because of it’s algorithms. It’s so much more advanced. Check my build thread for more info.

 

[Doc_Mello]

Also, I still have the OEM sub, if anyone wants to hack it up to use the top portion as a mounting adapter. Just pay for shipping, and someone can have it!

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