Downpipe Help

hobby-man

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This was the best thing I read before doing mine. Lots of gems here. I keep it bookmarked for when I eventually go back to stock. https://www.civicx.com/forum/threads/diy-prl-motorsports-downpipe-front-pipe-install.10825/

The undertray isn’t that bad. Just a bunch of clips. I’ve removed so many clips on this car that I ended up buying the Honda clip remover tool. And a bag of replacement clips.
I bought a bag of replacement clips as well lol. I think I broke 3 the first time I pulled the tray off.
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redcivic19x

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I bought a bag of replacement clips as well lol. I think I broke 3 the first time I pulled the tray off.
Can you post a link for the clips? Lol I lose them every time I take that Danm thing off
 

WOPSiWOT

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This was the best thing I read before doing mine. Lots of gems here. I keep it bookmarked for when I eventually go back to stock. https://www.civicx.com/forum/threads/diy-prl-motorsports-downpipe-front-pipe-install.10825/

The undertray isn’t that bad. Just a bunch of clips. I’ve removed so many clips on this car that I ended up buying the Honda clip remover tool. And a bag of replacement clips.
Someone else mentioned you can get away with only taking the skid plate off, I saw a video showing the same I hope theres enough room. I am only doing the down pipe does anyone know? Also im still wondering the torque specs on the turbo bolts .. if I should heat the bolts with a torch as well as pb blaster..
 


WOPSiWOT

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Someone else mentioned you can get away with only taking the skid plate off, I saw a video showing the same I hope theres enough room. I am only doing the down pipe does anyone know? Also im still wondering the torque specs on the turbo bolts .. if I should heat the bolts with a torch as well as pb blaster..
I’ve seen vids of the DP with just the skid off. What you can do and what will cause more hassle than it is worth are different things. Taking off the undertray to give more clearance seems easier in the end but I guess you could judge when you got down there and into it.

If you have a torch use it. Better to take any advantage you can. I soaked mine over the course of like a week and drove it so it got heated. Poor man’s torch. Did that help? Not sure, butI didn’t snap a bolt (we’ll see what happens when I go back to stock eventually). PB Blaster is cheap so might as well apply it liberally.

Here are torque specs. I also added copper anti seize to the bolts to hopefully make it easier to disassemble in the future. So you’d want to adjust for lubricated bolts if you do that. https://www.civicx.com/forum/threads/torque-specs.34521/
 

redcivic19x

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Someone else mentioned you can get away with only taking the skid plate off, I saw a video showing the same I hope theres enough room. I am only doing the down pipe does anyone know? Also im still wondering the torque specs on the turbo bolts .. if I should heat the bolts with a torch as well as pb blaster..
You can do it with just the skid plate removed. You’ll probably have to remove two screws in order to flex the plastic piece at the front of the car out of the way to help you with more clearance.
 

bbeem

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I installed with just skid plate removed also. The only tricky part is the jam nuts. They're crushed into ovals and nasty af. The nuts came half way off then binded and turned the studs out. I think if you're lubed up you're more likely to turn them out then break them. After I turned the studs out I used a Dremel cutting wheel to cut off the jam nuts and I still had enough thread for full engagement with new nuts.

What's super important I didn't see mentioned is to throw those fkn jam nuts away and use proper grade 5 or 8 nuts, and use a flat and lock washer.
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