Door panel shoe marks

Rottboy

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Mr. Clean magic eraser worked pretty well for getting out light scratches on mine!
 

Siqc Cafe

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I've had my Civic for a month now. I have hit the lower part of the door panel with my shoe sole when getting out in tight parking spots. I have these curved shoe marks that I can't seem to remove with regular cleaning supplies. Any idea what type of cleaning supplies can get this off? Must be rubber transfer but I'm not sure what to do to remove it.

I use magic eraser for door scuffs
 

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I just use chemical guys interior cleaner, a coarse bristled brush for detail work, and a micro fiber towel.

Spray the shoe marks, agitate them with the brush, scrub and remove debris with the towels.
Problem I have is if my shoe even looks at the door panel the wrong way those marks show up XD
 

TriangleHeat

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So there are three possibilities I can think of:
1. Are you fine with masking/hiding it? Scuffs can probably be made less visible by using a trim shine product similar to how a wax hides micro-marring on clear coat.
2. Have you tried a plastic polish? Most plastic polishes are meant for clear plastics but you're working on solid unpainted plastic with a texture so I don't see why you can't use it. A recommendation is PlastX by Meguiar's. Treat this like fine liquid sandpaper, maybe test a small spot and see if it makes a difference.
3. Someone has probably already suggested Mr. Clean Magic Eraser, I second that. It depends on how deep the marks are. Shoes marks are usually scuffs and scuffs are just very broad and thin scratches as opposed to gouges which are usually slim and deep scratches. You have to treat MCME almost like very fine grit sandpaper so it should work well for the scuffs to cut faster without going too fast. Note that you can only cut so deep before you "sand" away the bumpy texture and it becomes noticeable, once you go that far there's no going back, it will look flat and untextured and not match the surrounding so take your time, stop and inspect periodically.

I'd start with the least abrasive (PlastX) to see if it's cutting fast enough before going to the more abrasive MCME. When you use MCME you may lose some of the natural/intrinsic gloss the plastic originally had after you go at it with MCME, because rubbing with MCME is leveling the surface in tiny amounts and making a bunch of micro-marring, but that can possibly be fixed by using PlastX afterward since it's finer than MCME and PlastX by itself is intended to be a finishing/polishing step. Kind of like how headlight restoration involves sanding with coarse grit for fast cutting, then progressively increasing the grit finer until you get to the last step which is a polish like PlastX intended to make the headlight look shiny, so I suspect PlastX will remove any of the micro-marring left from MCME.
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