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Do I need to get +60 offset wheels to minimize torque steer?

zenren

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I am looking at wheels and man +60 is hard to find especially in 8.5", so I ballpark a couple mm and also consider 9"s. I manage to find wheels like these SSR Professor SP4 or Advan RS II. I'd rather have a multi piece wheel and I would glady settle on some SSRs, I just need to look through the rest of the selection. I just want a smaller diameter wheel that can mount a good tire, I am eyeballing the Pilot Sport All Season 4 after hearing good things about them on the C8 Corvette, also they are $200 a pop in 255/40r18 vs $300+ when buying for the stock 20s. I don't want them to stick out more or cause a big loss in grip.

I am also curious about clearing the Brembos with 18s, though I suspect most of the wheels I am looking at are clearanced for it.



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Speed9117

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There are TONS of threads on this topic... But short answer is no, you don't need +60 to minimize torque steer. The knuckle design itself does a lot of work to minimize torque steer with a high offset wheel being one part of this by reducing scrub radius. I will eat my shorts if you can notice any significant difference with a wheel within 20 mm (or even more) of stock offset. I have the 18x8.5 +40 RPF1s for daily duty and have no issues.
 

tinyman392

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I went to +42 (18x8 with 245 width tires) and it increased the torque steer a little bit. It’s not bad by any means, but it is there.
 
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zenren

zenren

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I do want to keep a similar to stock scrub radius, so I am good to fudge it a few mm at least. I am leaning towards some R disk Works, I can get away with that and stay around 60mm with a 9 or 10" wheel, still a 255/40r18.
 

Tev42

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I was also worried about this before switching wheels.

I'm sure there is a reason honda went with +60 offset and it may be necessary for absolute peak, top-of-the-line, record breaking performance.

That being said, an 18" wheel with a +38 offset will not turn your car into a Vista Cruiser in terms of handling ability.
 

MisterC

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So, this year I did a mid ohio run on the stock 20s with ps4s and had really bad sidewall rollover, to the point I've swapped them out with 18s, specifically I went with the apex ec7 18x9.5 +43, 265/55r18 ps4s for the tire.

I can tell you that yes, you can make the car torque steer, and it is notably more pronounced than on the 20s. It's not awful, we're not talking a focus st / srt4 / mazdaspeed 3 level of squirm, and in a turn it mostly manifests as the car trying to push, but it's there.

But the truth is, the type R always has had some level of torque steer, it's just minimized and managed by the knuckle design.

The tradeoff for me at least, moving to 265s was well worth it, and the little bit of squirm when you go flat out below 40 doesn't bug me. Your mileage might vary though.

People who say it doesn't exist are full of it, but it's not ruining the experience or something either.
 

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So If I go with a wider wheel from 8.5inch to 9.5 inch and which adds 25.4mm to the width. Half of that is 12.7mm, so if I get a wheel with 60-12.7mm which is 47.3mm offset, won't the effect of torque steer be equivalent to stock. This is hypothetical but I just want to be sure I am looking at this the right way.

My idea is that the inner part of the wheel is level with stock inset.

wheel ofet diagram.PNG


wheel offset.PNG
 

MisterC

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I think with the knuckle design, the thing that helps it not torque steer is the center point / scrub radius being matched up, but on a 9.5 if you wanted to maintain the center point, I feel like the wheel might hit the suspension (I could be full of shit on that though)

*edit* but if those flat black lipped gunmetal rotas fit, man those are 🔥
 

amurciano

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I think with the knuckle design, the thing that helps it not torque steer is the center point / scrub radius being matched up, but on a 9.5 if you wanted to maintain the center point, I feel like the wheel might hit the suspension (I could be full of shit on that though)

*edit* but if those flat black lipped gunmetal rotas fit, man those are 🔥
I think your right it based on the centerline. IN stock the steering axis meets with the centerline at the bottom of the tire so its designed perfect.

torque steer.PNG

 

EdG

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I can tell you that yes, you can make the car torque steer, and it is notably more pronounced than on the 20s. It's not awful, we're not talking a focus st / srt4 / mazdaspeed 3 level of squirm, and in a turn it mostly manifests as the car trying to push, but it's there.
This has been my experience as well with 18 inch 9.5 +45 rims with 265/40/18 PS4. Maybe this is only a Cleveland thing? ; )
 

TypeSiR

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Lust

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I’m running an 18x10 +40 wheel.

No torque steer here and I’m FBO + tune.

What some of you might be experiencing is bump steer.
 

spyder57

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OP keep in mind that torque steer is relative and that certain situations may induce more of it. Obviously aggressive driving (canyon carving, tracking, etc.) over rough bumps seem to be the worst case. That said, general advice has been to stick with +45 or higher offset to minimize torque steer.
 
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zenren

zenren

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I think with the knuckle design, the thing that helps it not torque steer is the center point / scrub radius being matched up, but on a 9.5 if you wanted to maintain the center point, I feel like the wheel might hit the suspension (I could be full of shit on that though)

*edit* but if those flat black lipped gunmetal rotas fit, man those are 🔥
I'm actually looking at a 10" wheel right now, still a 255/40r18. You think theyll hit the suspension with +60 offset?
 

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