DIY: Si or CTR Rear Stabilizer Bar on Normal Civic Sedan/Coupe/Hatch

[BoxsterSteve]

I replaced my original rear sway bar with an Si rear sway bar I bought here from a forum member.
Wow.
Mad reduction in understeer with no other suspension modifications.
Really easy to do... only four 12mm bolts.
Took me 20 minutes to switch out on ramps, including having to monkey it out once because I had it upside down the first try.

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[hobby-man]

Thanks for this, especially the torque specs. Just installed the 22mm RSB from Whiteline + Accord endlinks.

My own thoughts on install process:

1) With an aftermarket exhaust, I couldn't wiggle out the stock RSB+endlink assembly. Had to disconnect the muffler portion of the exhaust for more room at the flange. Kept bumping into the LCA/exhaust
2) Knowing that, I probably would have tried to remove the endlinks first and extricate the bar separately
3) Knowing that, the f-ing nuts were on there so tight I probably had no chance of doing that. Took a lot of swearing and bracing the RSB against a metal pole to finally break those loose
4) For install, I put the bar in first, then put the endlinks in and loosely tightened everything up while fine-tuning the bar/link position before wrenching everything down. Blue locktite on everything!

For anyone else planning to do the same, I was pretty much forced to run the RSB in the "stiff" setting (closer in hole). Simply could not align the links and bar with the softer (desired) setting. Would probably require adjustable endlinks, not OEM.

 

[gtman]

After driving on a lot of familiar roads, I wanted to give an update here since I upgraded to the Si rear sway bar. The stock EX-L bar is 16.5mm and the Si bar is 18mm. That difference doesn't sound like much but it does make a noticeable difference. It's actually something like 45+% stiffer, believe it or not.

For $80, it's a worthy upgrade. But you have to know what you're getting. This won't radically change the handling. It's nowhere near as aggressive as upgrading to something in the 20-22mm range. But for my mod/driving style it's perfect. I always like to take my cars from factory to what the factory should have given us. In other words, better than stock but nothing too extreme.

The Si bar gives me noticeable quicker turn in response and a moderate reduction in understeer. I'm happy with it.

I had a unique opportunity to test it out in an accident avoidance situation. I was travelling at about 40mph and was in the process of making a left turn at a close by intersection. I saw a BMW in oncoming traffic. I knew I had to give it a little gas to make the turn safely. All of the sudden just as I was ready to turn, the BMW driver gunned it. Well, I'm tuned and I gave it a ton of gas as I was making the turn to avoid the BMW ahole. Rubber was burned.

The car was incredibly responsive and well behaved. It turned in nice and fast and flat.

 

[derbo904]

After driving on a lot of familiar roads, I wanted to give an update here since I upgraded to the Si rear sway bar. The stock EX-L bar is 16.5mm and the Si bar is 18mm. That difference doesn't sound like much but it does make a noticeable difference. It's actually something like 45+% stiffer, believe it or not.

For $80, it's a worthy upgrade. But you have to know what you're getting. This won't radically change the handling. It's nowhere near as aggressive as upgrading to something in the 20-22mm range. But for my mod/driving style it's perfect. I always like to take my cars from factory to what the factory should have given us. In other words, better than stock but nothing too extreme.

The Si bar gives me noticeable quicker turn in response and a moderate reduction in understeer. I'm happy with it.

I had a unique opportunity to test it out in an accident avoidance situation. I was travelling at about 40mph and was in the process of making a left turn at a close by intersection. I saw a BMW in oncoming traffic. I knew I had to give it a little gas to make the turn safely. All of the sudden just as I was ready to turn, the BMW driver gunned it. Well, I'm tuned and I gave it a ton of gas as I was making the turn to avoid the BMW ahole. Rubber was burned.

The car was incredibly responsive and well behaved. It turned in nice and fast and flat.

Thanks for the review! The table I listed in the first post shows close to 60% stiffer than stock rear bars! Increasing the rear roll stiffness definitely helps with reducing that understeer.

 

[gtman]

Derbo, I actually had a local Honda dealer do the install (I have back issues). But, I've always felt like your sway bar install DIY is by far one of the best here at CivicX.

 

[V3N0M_VZL4]

i'm looking the FK8 bar, i installed the whiteline bar in the soft position but when i pass over a bump is making some weird metallic noises, somebody experience this before?

 

[hobby-man]

i'm looking the FK8 bar, i installed the whiteline bar in the soft position but when i pass over a bump is making some weird metallic noises, somebody experience this before?

Endlinks or brackets aren't tightened down enough most likely.

 

[V3N0M_VZL4]

Endlinks or brackets aren't tightened down enough most likely.

Everything was tight and also I put loctite there.

 

[V3N0M_VZL4]

also i upgrade the OEM end links for the accord ones.

 

[hobby-man]

also i upgrade the OEM end links for the accord ones.

Not sure what to tell you. I've got the same bar and links and not hearing anything. Try running the stiffer position and see if it goes away? I found the endlinks really strained in the soft position.

 

[V3N0M_VZL4]

Not sure what to tell you. I've got the same bar and links and not hearing anything. Try running the stiffer position and see if it goes away? I found the endlinks really strained in the soft position.

Can you describe your experience using the stiffer position, this is my daily I don't want to loos the comfort.

 

[hobby-man]

Can you describe your experience using the stiffer position, this is my daily I don't want to loos the comfort.

You won't lose any comfort at all, it doesn't affect anything in regard to ride quality. The stiffness setting will just affect how tight the turn-in is and how much oversteer you're inducing (or understeer you're removing if that's less scary sounding).

I know some people have concerns about running too stiff a RSB and I wouldn't take it upon myself to call those feelings invalid. But based on my experience so far, I'd have to be driving like an absolute asshole to get myself into a dangerous situation on a public road.

This is all barring an emergency situation, I dont know how the car will respond in such a situation and that's a risk I'm willing to take.

Just my 2 cents.

 

[derbo904]

i'm looking the FK8 bar, i installed the whiteline bar in the soft position but when i pass over a bump is making some weird metallic noises, somebody experience this before?

Try tightening the endlinks when the suspension is loaded at normal height. Tighten them when the car is on ramps?

 

[V3N0M_VZL4]

Try tightening the endlinks when the suspension is loaded at normal height. Tighten them when the car is on ramps?

The suspension was not loaded when I tight the bolts, and I don't have ramps maybe I can use the jacks let's see, thanks for the advise.

 

[derbo904]

The suspension was not loaded when I tight the bolts, and I don't have ramps maybe I can use the jacks let's see, thanks for the advise.

Maybe you can use two jacks to load the suspension? You will need both sides loaded evenly to ensure the endlinks are leveled at normal height. Getting the car on an alignment rack is also another way to get it loaded and accessible.

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