That's good to hear!
I'm not sure if that matters, but I used the TGG since it's what comes on the newer Si.
I experimented with some steel epoxy which I hardened into a 1/4" ball. After curing it was hard as rock. I then immersed it in brake fluid. After two weeks, the brake fluid has some murkiness. I was able to split the epoxy ball in half using my fingernail. I don't think the resin part can withstand the brake fluid.
You're right ,i know they can withstand engine oil (devcon aluminium epoxy does).Brake oil is more agressieve so yes better not use it then.
i like this post ive been looking to do this to my fk8 i will did the clutch delay valve and this mod any update how is the car driving
nice work did u use the blue paste or the liquid and why not use the red figured its a stronger holdThe OP's method is very secure. However, I'm not familiar with welding or brazing and was afraid that heating the CMC might deform it. Instead, I plugged the holes.
The holes are about 4mm in diameter. I used an 5mm hand tap to thread the holes to about 80% of the depth.
Next, plug them with M5 allen screws and blue thread lock which, according to Loctite, works in brake fluid and is also a thread sealant.
As insurance, I filled the entire cavity with brake fluid before reassembly. Even if any of the plugs fail, as long as the cavity is filled (absolutely no air) with brake fluid, the CMC will work perfectly.
I used the blue liquid. I applied thread lock not to keep the screw from backing out, but as a sealant. I figured the blue stuff was sufficient. Also it's because that was what I had on hand.
Just figured I'd document this on here since I haven't seen it spelled out on this generation yet. The process has been been around for a while and has become a little more involved ever since Honda decided to put the damper inside the CMC. In days past, it was a seperate entity down the hard line a bit and was easily bypassed with taking it out and adding a small braided line in its place. So this is the guide to bypass the damper built into the OEM CMC. (Obligitory disclaimer: If you jack your shit up, I am in no way responsible)
Here is the OEM CMC in all of its glory
The first step is to strip down the CMC to just the bare casing, you want to remove all of the bits and pieces. I'll spread that out over a few pics. To remove the hardline output adapter, you have to unspread the bottom of the retaining clip and then pry the clip up and then the adapter comes free. Don't forget the seal inside there!
Next is the plastic inlet nipple, again, make sure the o-ring comes out too.
Now for the damper diaphram and it's associated seals and whatnot. This is the part that we're going to bypass. The way it works is the chamber that we just exposed is filled with brake fluid and as the fluid pressure goes up, that plate flexes away from the fluid. This creates a sealed hydraulic system with a very slightly variable volume, and this is where we lose a lot of the feedback that we can feel on the pedal. It also creates a spongier, numb feel.
Now remove the rod, piston and spring by removing the c-clip with a pair ring pliers
Next, you want to take a drill bit and drill into the cylinder from where the hardline adater was. I used a 1/4" drill bit. Once you make it through into the cylinder, take care of any burrs, you don't want them to come off later and damage the piston seals. Take care not to damage the ledge where the hardline adapter o-ring seats.
If you don't have these tools, they are readily available at Home Depot. I used a mapp gas torch, an aluminum brazing rod and some sandpaper to rough up the work area.
*Make sure that the CMC is free of brake fluid and all rubber and plastic bits before any heat is applied*
Take your tool of choice to slightly rough up the area around the damper inlet and outlet holes. I also took this time to put down a floor tile to keep from burning up my wood shop table.
Now for the fun part. FIRE!
Heat up the CMC with the torch focusing on the damper area, it will take about 5 minutes or so as the rest of the CMC heats up as well. Once you're in the ballpark of 750 degrees farenheit, turn the torch off and take your brazing rod and just rub it around the holes and block them off. If the rod doesn't melt on the CMC, it's not hot enough yet. This creates a very, very strong seal over the holes. Sealing off those holes in conjunction with the hole drilled into the cylinder effectively bypasses the OEM clutch damper.
Question after u filled the holes did u have to redrill the main hole out again
Late reply, I've been on vacation, but the car still shifts perfectly.
I suppose you could, but you'd essentially be creating a chamber in the CMC that would need to be bled. It would be near impoosible to get all the air out of there without adding some sort of bleeding port on the plate. Plus, working back in that corner would be a PITA.
