SpringRubber
Senior Member
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2017
- Threads
- 4
- Messages
- 113
- Reaction score
- 66
- Location
- Virginia
- Vehicle(s)
- 2018 Hatch Sport, CVT, White
- Thread starter
- #1
Hello all – similar to the professional 2-piece 56-inch Race Ramps but I made these from scrap lumber. Yes, it took a bunch of time (available to me right now) but it was fun & thought a detailed build should be shared with all the great folks on CivicX. A couple of my friends will call me out and say just go buy the real thing, you cheapo! Anyway…
<<Updated 4/25 with detailed measurements; updated 4/27 to bold the text about using 3" and 2" salvaged screws, just to be clear that this has more than a (partial) box of gold construction screws>>
Dimensions: Ramps are 10 inches wide & 8 5/8" high with a 12.8 degree pitch. No scraping of the 2018 stock Sport front lip or underbody flaps. Raises the civic more than enough to drain oil directly into a plastic jug. (The one in the pic at end of 2nd post is a kitty litter container that I use for oil changes on the Wrangler, which of course doesn't even need ramps or jacking up -- jug fits right under the fumoto valve easy peezy AND the filter on the pentastar engine removes from above -- so clean.) The platform size is 10"x20" and total length of ramp+platform is 62".
Weight: Each box is 22 lbs; each ramp is 24 lbs.
Materials used:
Plywood: something less than a 4x8 panel of roof sheathing (1/2 inch nominal plywood) – left over from a roofing job. The roofers had cut off some strips to lay over a couplejoists rafters. So, let’s call it a 3.8 x 8 sheet.
Some rough planking: various lengths of 1x3 white wood I salvaged from a shipping crate. Think of a pallet but instead of being nailed together this monster had been screwed and stapled together. I spent a couple hours, I suppose, getting rid of the staples and saving lengths of wood (some 40 inches, some 60 inches) and also a bunch of 3” and 2” square drive screws. Happy to re-purpose and save all of that from ending up in the landfill.
<edit> ADDITIONALLY, a box of 1 5/8" gold construction screws .
Drywall screws and some shorter black screws that were on hand – for less critical areas.
2 bottles of wood glue.
A few galvanized box nails (only for the interior blocking, or use screws)
For each box platform:
1x3 (nominal) lumber:
(3) 24" (for the base, can be pieces to make up 24" -- laid flat and sandwiched between plywood)
(6) 20"
And sections for cross members and blocking -- size depends on the thickness of your lumber and how wide you want the ramps. For 10 inch wide ramps I used (4) 6 3/4" cross members for the bottom box and
(1) 18 1/8" + (2) 8 1/4" + (4) 3 7/8" blocks for the top box.
Also: a piece or pieces to make a tire stop, which is not shown here.
1/2" plywood:
(1) 10" x 24"
(3) 10" x 20 -- (on one layer I pieced (2) 5"x20" sections together)
(1) 10" x approx 2 7/8" (to form the recess for the cleat)
(1) 10" x 7 1/4" (for back)
(1) 10" x 12" (estimated, for front, not shown here)
For each ramp:
1x3 (nominal) lumber:
(3) 20" (for the base, laid flat & sandwiched between plywood)
(3) 10" cross pieces
(4) 11 3/4" rails sistered-together for bottom box
(2) 6 3/4" cross member for bottom box
(8) 13 1/2" triangles
(3) 9 1/2" and cut to fit slope for middle of ramp
(3) small triangles to fit gap
1/2" plywood:
(1) 10" x 39" (this is the hypotenuse of the ramp, cut this piece after the 3 tiers of the slope are assembled -you could also use pieces if that's what you have on hand)
(1) 10" x 38" (the base)
(1) 10" x 20" (can also be formed from pieces, e.g. I used two 5"x20"
(1) 10" x 13 1/2"
(1) 10" x 6 3/4" for front that forms the cleat
<edit> Drilled pilot holes for most all screws.
Pics continue in 2nd post.
Hope someone finds this helpful -- cheers!
<<Updated 4/25 with detailed measurements; updated 4/27 to bold the text about using 3" and 2" salvaged screws, just to be clear that this has more than a (partial) box of gold construction screws>>
Dimensions: Ramps are 10 inches wide & 8 5/8" high with a 12.8 degree pitch. No scraping of the 2018 stock Sport front lip or underbody flaps. Raises the civic more than enough to drain oil directly into a plastic jug. (The one in the pic at end of 2nd post is a kitty litter container that I use for oil changes on the Wrangler, which of course doesn't even need ramps or jacking up -- jug fits right under the fumoto valve easy peezy AND the filter on the pentastar engine removes from above -- so clean.) The platform size is 10"x20" and total length of ramp+platform is 62".
Weight: Each box is 22 lbs; each ramp is 24 lbs.
Materials used:
Plywood: something less than a 4x8 panel of roof sheathing (1/2 inch nominal plywood) – left over from a roofing job. The roofers had cut off some strips to lay over a couple
Some rough planking: various lengths of 1x3 white wood I salvaged from a shipping crate. Think of a pallet but instead of being nailed together this monster had been screwed and stapled together. I spent a couple hours, I suppose, getting rid of the staples and saving lengths of wood (some 40 inches, some 60 inches) and also a bunch of 3” and 2” square drive screws. Happy to re-purpose and save all of that from ending up in the landfill.
<edit> ADDITIONALLY, a box of 1 5/8" gold construction screws .
Drywall screws and some shorter black screws that were on hand – for less critical areas.
2 bottles of wood glue.
A few galvanized box nails (only for the interior blocking, or use screws)
For each box platform:
1x3 (nominal) lumber:
(3) 24" (for the base, can be pieces to make up 24" -- laid flat and sandwiched between plywood)
(6) 20"
And sections for cross members and blocking -- size depends on the thickness of your lumber and how wide you want the ramps. For 10 inch wide ramps I used (4) 6 3/4" cross members for the bottom box and
(1) 18 1/8" + (2) 8 1/4" + (4) 3 7/8" blocks for the top box.
Also: a piece or pieces to make a tire stop, which is not shown here.
1/2" plywood:
(1) 10" x 24"
(3) 10" x 20 -- (on one layer I pieced (2) 5"x20" sections together)
(1) 10" x approx 2 7/8" (to form the recess for the cleat)
(1) 10" x 7 1/4" (for back)
(1) 10" x 12" (estimated, for front, not shown here)
For each ramp:
1x3 (nominal) lumber:
(3) 20" (for the base, laid flat & sandwiched between plywood)
(3) 10" cross pieces
(4) 11 3/4" rails sistered-together for bottom box
(2) 6 3/4" cross member for bottom box
(8) 13 1/2" triangles
(3) 9 1/2" and cut to fit slope for middle of ramp
(3) small triangles to fit gap
1/2" plywood:
(1) 10" x 39" (this is the hypotenuse of the ramp, cut this piece after the 3 tiers of the slope are assembled -you could also use pieces if that's what you have on hand)
(1) 10" x 38" (the base)
(1) 10" x 20" (can also be formed from pieces, e.g. I used two 5"x20"
(1) 10" x 13 1/2"
(1) 10" x 6 3/4" for front that forms the cleat
<edit> Drilled pilot holes for most all screws.
Pics continue in 2nd post.
Hope someone finds this helpful -- cheers!
Last edited:
Used what I had on hand to get the car up to the height I wanted. Not sure if the Sport lip is different, when I was measuring it seemed I needed a pretty low angle of approach.
