I didn't do any of that but Jjake96 mentioned something about shims.Hi.
I'm planning to replace factory differential with the the Mfactory one.
I bought two bearings.
Do I have to replace any of the shims too?
Ideally? No. Hopefully the one that is in the case now will work. However I am wishing I had ordered every other shim from the catalog. (A, C, E, G, etc) Since they go in 0.05mm increments and the spec calls out 0.10 you should be able to make one of the shims work. I am also now realizing that the seals should be replaced and for how cheap they are I wish I ordered them. Not even sure if I will be able to get a proper measurement with the seals in place and I do not want to take them off and put them back on...Hi.
I'm planning to replace factory differential with the the Mfactory one.
I bought two bearings.
Do I have to replace any of the shims too?
Detailed information would be nice.Ideally? No. Hopefully the one that is in the case now will work. However I am wishing I had ordered every other shim from the catalog. (A, C, E, G, etc) Since they go in 0.05mm increments and the spec calls out 0.10 you should be able to make one of the shims work. I am also now realizing that the seals should be replaced and for how cheap they are I wish I ordered them. Not even sure if I will be able to get a proper measurement with the seals in place and I do not want to take them off and put them back on...
I talked to a dealership parts manager today and he said I can call Monday with the part that I need and he can overnight the shim for ~$30 which is the same amount of buying every other shim.
I am starting the work tomorrow morning and will try to get pictures and/or videos if the wife is willing to be my camera woman. But I can provide an update once I am complete or at a stopping point. Hopefully complete. I want to get the job done by Tuesday. 4 days should be enough right?
Also I requested @Two Step Performance to carry the mFactory diff and that is where I was able to order mine from. No complaints, would recommend for the free shipping and reward points.
https://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts...ransmission_manual/mt_differential.html?pnc=1 (3)
https://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts...a_6mt/transmission_manual/mt_clutch_case.html (9 & 10)
https://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts...transmission_manual/mt_transmission_case.html (24)
https://www.twostepperformance.com/products/mfactory-helical-lsd-for-l15b-turbo
mFactory included a slip that recommended Torco MTF for break-in and then another fluid flush after 400-500 miles.Which transmission fluid is good after the lsd has been installed?
Honda MTF3? Torco MTF?
When I called mFactory the guy said I could probably reuse the fluid that was in there for break in since you should not be going hard during the break in. But with how cheap the fluid is I didn't think it was worth the effort. But long term? I would think you would want a heavier duty fluid. If you are putting a LSD in you are going to be driving it harder than most people do. But OEM will work fine I'm sure.Is the Honda MTF3 sufficient after the flush?
I did the fluid flush after a around hundreds of miles but I didnt use torco. I didnt know what to use tbh. I went ac delco trans fluidmFactory included a slip that recommended Torco MTF for break-in and then another fluid flush after 400-500 miles.
It makes me happy to read great feedback after adding LSD on their 6mt non si.So final update: Clutch is broken in and car has been trashed around. Oh my word, what a difference.
After pulling the transmission out again and taking the case apart, I got the sensor out. I struggled getting it back together for a bit but turns out a piece of plastic was stuck between the case and oil guide tube. Once I found that, things went together much better.
I ended up finding someone who rebuild D and B series transmissions and he came over to help me out and learn more about the L-series transmissions. One big thing I learned from him is that when you put the case together dry (no sealant) the case should have a gap. This is from the spring washers that the gearsets sit on. That gap should be the difference in height of the washer unsprung minus the thickness of the washer. If this gap is bigger, something is not set right. Take the case off and do it again. Another thing I learned, the case should not need to be tapped on the ground for the snap ring to find the bearing. Once everything was set, I lifted the transmission, held it against my body and did a small jump with it, and it clicked right in.
But on the street I can actually put down the power while cornering without the engine pulling timing the whole way. And now at Autocross I am able to do the pedal dance and run the car without making a smoke show on the slow corners.
Someone at autocross drove my car with a tune and a stock si almost back to back and he said he could feel a difference in the differential and that the mFactory one hooked up a lot faster/better.