DIY Limited Slip Differential Install in Non-Si (Quick Write Up and Some Photos)

teletxt

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Hi.
I'm planning to replace factory differential with the the Mfactory one.
I bought two bearings.
Do I have to replace any of the shims too?
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Hi.
I'm planning to replace factory differential with the the Mfactory one.
I bought two bearings.
Do I have to replace any of the shims too?
I didn't do any of that but Jjake96 mentioned something about shims.
 

Jjakef96

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Hi.
I'm planning to replace factory differential with the the Mfactory one.
I bought two bearings.
Do I have to replace any of the shims too?
Ideally? No. Hopefully the one that is in the case now will work. However I am wishing I had ordered every other shim from the catalog. (A, C, E, G, etc) Since they go in 0.05mm increments and the spec calls out 0.10 you should be able to make one of the shims work. I am also now realizing that the seals should be replaced and for how cheap they are I wish I ordered them. Not even sure if I will be able to get a proper measurement with the seals in place and I do not want to take them off and put them back on...

I talked to a dealership parts manager today and he said I can call Monday with the part that I need and he can overnight the shim for ~$30 which is the same amount of buying every other shim.

I am starting the work tomorrow morning and will try to get pictures and/or videos if the wife is willing to be my camera woman. But I can provide an update once I am complete or at a stopping point. Hopefully complete. I want to get the job done by Tuesday. 4 days should be enough right? 🤔

Also I requested @Two Step Performance to carry the mFactory diff and that is where I was able to order mine from. No complaints, would recommend for the free shipping and reward points.

https://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts...ransmission_manual/mt_differential.html?pnc=1 (3)

https://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts...a_6mt/transmission_manual/mt_clutch_case.html (9 & 10)

https://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts...transmission_manual/mt_transmission_case.html (24)

https://www.twostepperformance.com/products/mfactory-helical-lsd-for-l15b-turbo
 

teletxt

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Which transmission fluid is good after the lsd has been installed?
Honda MTF3? Torco MTF?
 

teletxt

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Ideally? No. Hopefully the one that is in the case now will work. However I am wishing I had ordered every other shim from the catalog. (A, C, E, G, etc) Since they go in 0.05mm increments and the spec calls out 0.10 you should be able to make one of the shims work. I am also now realizing that the seals should be replaced and for how cheap they are I wish I ordered them. Not even sure if I will be able to get a proper measurement with the seals in place and I do not want to take them off and put them back on...

I talked to a dealership parts manager today and he said I can call Monday with the part that I need and he can overnight the shim for ~$30 which is the same amount of buying every other shim.

I am starting the work tomorrow morning and will try to get pictures and/or videos if the wife is willing to be my camera woman. But I can provide an update once I am complete or at a stopping point. Hopefully complete. I want to get the job done by Tuesday. 4 days should be enough right? 🤔

Also I requested @Two Step Performance to carry the mFactory diff and that is where I was able to order mine from. No complaints, would recommend for the free shipping and reward points.

https://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts...ransmission_manual/mt_differential.html?pnc=1 (3)

https://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts...a_6mt/transmission_manual/mt_clutch_case.html (9 & 10)

https://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts...transmission_manual/mt_transmission_case.html (24)

https://www.twostepperformance.com/products/mfactory-helical-lsd-for-l15b-turbo
Detailed information would be nice.

Here is the Manual Transmission Disassembly and Reassembly manual from the European Honda Service Website. It marks the parts need to be replaced with a black X.
 
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Jjakef96

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Which transmission fluid is good after the lsd has been installed?
Honda MTF3? Torco MTF?
mFactory included a slip that recommended Torco MTF for break-in and then another fluid flush after 400-500 miles.
 

teletxt

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mFactory included a slip that recommended Torco MTF for break-in and then another fluid flush after 400-500 miles.
Is the Honda MTF3 sufficient after the flush?
 

Jjakef96

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Is the Honda MTF3 sufficient after the flush?
When I called mFactory the guy said I could probably reuse the fluid that was in there for break in since you should not be going hard during the break in. But with how cheap the fluid is I didn't think it was worth the effort. But long term? I would think you would want a heavier duty fluid. If you are putting a LSD in you are going to be driving it harder than most people do. But OEM will work fine I'm sure.
 

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I think these parts are marked as "replace":

91205-57A-003 OIL SEAL (40X56X8) (ARAI)
91206-57A-003 Oil Seal (35X58X8) (ARAI)
91216-57A-003 OIL SEAL (28X43X7) (ARAI)
91309-PX4-003 O-Ring (16X2.1) (NOK)
23927-57A-000 Washer Spring (64MM)
90442-R7G-000 Washer Sealing (6MM)
91003-R88-003 Bearing Needle (40X68X20)
 
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mFactory included a slip that recommended Torco MTF for break-in and then another fluid flush after 400-500 miles.
I did the fluid flush after a around hundreds of miles but I didnt use torco. I didnt know what to use tbh. I went ac delco trans fluid
 


Jjakef96

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So bit of an update. Once I assembled the case back together I made sure I could shift gears and rotate the input shaft for all of the gears. Everything was looking good. Then I did the procedure to get the counter shaft bearing and snap ring into place. It took me a lot of effort. But after slam after slam (it really took a lot of effort) I finally got it into place. Then I wanted to reverify everything. It shifts fine, however in any gear I am unable to rotate the input shaft. But when I am in neutral it rotates fine. So this tells me input is fine. But the counter shaft and ring gear are in a bind. Even in neutral I cannot rotate the differential with the drive/half shaft inserted.

After playing some more, essentially only with the snap ring the bind would sometimes be there and sometimes everything would work. Because it wasn't consistent I decided to try and pull it apart again and now I am unable to get the counter shaft bearing out of the case.

I'm guessing since it took me so much effort to get everything set (because something wasn't right) now I have to fight even harder to get it out. And that the cause of the bind is between the bearing with the snap ring and the counter shaft.

I'm probably going to start calling transmission shops to see what they can do to get me running.
 
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Jjakef96

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So I ended up sending out my transmission to Synchrotech-transmissions for them to essentially rebuild my transmission. Took about 6 weeks but no local shop wanted to touch it. They just said for me to get a junkyard transmission. I got everything installed last week 6/2 but did not have any speed readings. Thought, no big deal, sensor probably got damaged while sitting in my tool box for 6 weeks.

I order a new sensor and go to remove the old one but only half the sensor comes out. I guess with 6 weeks my memory escaped me on the spacer that went in between the sensor and the case. Instead I used the spacer as a washer. Which allowed for the sensor to be inserted to far and I guess hit against some gear teeth. So now I am in the process of pulling the transmission back out. Then I will have to open the case again and get the sensor out. Hopefully I won't have any issues this go around...

https://synchrotech-transmissions.com/about-us
 

Jjakef96

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So final update: Clutch is broken in and car has been trashed around. Oh my word, what a difference.

After pulling the transmission out again and taking the case apart, I got the sensor out. I struggled getting it back together for a bit but turns out a piece of plastic was stuck between the case and oil guide tube. Once I found that, things went together much better.

I ended up finding someone who rebuild D and B series transmissions and he came over to help me out and learn more about the L-series transmissions. One big thing I learned from him is that when you put the case together dry (no sealant) the case should have a gap. This is from the spring washers that the gearsets sit on. That gap should be the difference in height of the washer unsprung minus the thickness of the washer. If this gap is bigger, something is not set right. Take the case off and do it again. Another thing I learned, the case should not need to be tapped on the ground for the snap ring to find the bearing. Once everything was set, I lifted the transmission, held it against my body and did a small jump with it, and it clicked right in.

But on the street I can actually put down the power while cornering without the engine pulling timing the whole way. And now at Autocross I am able to do the pedal dance and run the car without making a smoke show on the slow corners.

Someone at autocross drove my car with a tune and a stock si almost back to back and he said he could feel a difference in the differential and that the mFactory one hooked up a lot faster/better.
 
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So final update: Clutch is broken in and car has been trashed around. Oh my word, what a difference.

After pulling the transmission out again and taking the case apart, I got the sensor out. I struggled getting it back together for a bit but turns out a piece of plastic was stuck between the case and oil guide tube. Once I found that, things went together much better.

I ended up finding someone who rebuild D and B series transmissions and he came over to help me out and learn more about the L-series transmissions. One big thing I learned from him is that when you put the case together dry (no sealant) the case should have a gap. This is from the spring washers that the gearsets sit on. That gap should be the difference in height of the washer unsprung minus the thickness of the washer. If this gap is bigger, something is not set right. Take the case off and do it again. Another thing I learned, the case should not need to be tapped on the ground for the snap ring to find the bearing. Once everything was set, I lifted the transmission, held it against my body and did a small jump with it, and it clicked right in.

But on the street I can actually put down the power while cornering without the engine pulling timing the whole way. And now at Autocross I am able to do the pedal dance and run the car without making a smoke show on the slow corners.

Someone at autocross drove my car with a tune and a stock si almost back to back and he said he could feel a difference in the differential and that the mFactory one hooked up a lot faster/better.
It makes me happy to read great feedback after adding LSD on their 6mt non si.
It makes a big difference! So much more fun!
 

ManitobaSI

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You have to be careful with zero clearance. You can measure zero and you could have less than zero. I changed out my diff bearing and now I have zero with a 1.5mm 90mm shim. I need to get my hands on a 1.45mm shim as I want a hair of clearance and ensure I’m not stretching the case. Anyone got a 1.45mm shin. They are backordered till June.
Honda Civic 10th gen DIY Limited Slip Differential Install in Non-Si (Quick Write Up and Some Photos) 35C5021D-FAA4-44FE-850C-DD6BE45DF1A0
Honda Civic 10th gen DIY Limited Slip Differential Install in Non-Si (Quick Write Up and Some Photos) 9EE7B1B2-2163-444E-A502-D679B1F4DFCA
 


 


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