DIY: Install subwoofer in non-touring (P300-10)

Black Knight

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Just installed an under-seat subwoofer today. I wouldn’t even have thought of installing one if it wasn’t for this thread. Thanks for the instructions, guys.
Hey do you mind explaining what you installed and how? i used a Lc2i and tapped into the RL speaker and then connected it into a powered underseat subwoofer but the subwoofer makes little/no bass but does work.



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SCOPESYS

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Hey do you mind explaining what you installed and how? i used a Lc2i and tapped into the RL speaker and then connected it into a powered underseat subwoofer but the subwoofer makes little/no bass but does work.
You need to tap into the FRONT SIDE speaker (ideally both Left& Right).
A lot of Bass goes to the front speakers, very little Bass goes to the rear side speakers, they are more for Back Fill,

If you insist in tapping into the Rear side speakers, you will get VIRTUALLY NOTHING out of the sub output of the LCi2 !! (as you have already found out )
 

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You need to tap into the FRONT SIDE speaker (ideally both Left& Right).
A lot of Bass goes to the front speakers, very little Bass goes to the rear side speakers, they are more for Back Fill,

If you insist in tapping into the Rear side speakers, you will get VIRTUALLY NOTHING out of the sub output of the LCi2 !! (as you have already found out )
Sorry to revive an old thread, but stumbled upon this one while searching. Why does it matter to grab signal from both L/R speakers for the sub signal? I'm not very knowledgeable about sound mixing but I don't see why a song would use lower frequencies in a left channel and not the right at the same time, given they are omnidirectional. In my old 9th gen LX, I grabbed just the left side rear speaker signal and never had an issue with low frequency dips due to L/R differences. Has anyone here just used one front speaker to grab signal for their LOC?

I also found people in a 10th gen FB group saying just take the signal from the rear deck sub if you have one, however that supposedly only goes up to 80hz so I'm not too keen on losing a good bit of frequency range there.

I did find out my amp has speaker level inputs for Front/Rear L/R should I wire the rear speaker amp inputs into the stock sub's output signal?
 
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FogEater

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I just installed the smaller Rockford Fosgate P300-8P in my car and used this no cut setup.
I DO however have the Touring model and thus factory sub. When I went to the Crutchfield website to ask for a second opinion as to where to tap for the sub the guy told me the factory sub would be the preferred place. Honestly it sounds great to me and was SUPER easy to install with this setup.

I also found people in a 10th gen FB group saying just take the signal from the rear deck sub if you have one, however that supposedly only goes up to 80hz so I'm not too keen on losing a good bit of frequency range there.
I'm finishing up my sub install and was going to start a thread with some new tips when I get done, but since this thread has been bumped, I'll share my EASY method for tapping the signal from the rear speakers. I read that Honda has been using the same speaker connectors for years, so I'm amazed I haven't seen anyone else come up with something like this...

The two metal contacts inside the male clip on the rear speakers are actually just about the right size for attaching standard 1/4" female speaker disconnect terminals! I happened to find some "piggyback" terminal adapters at my auto parts store and they fit quite well to allow directly connecting two wires to each contact. I just had to slightly tighten the fit by carefully squeezing the female part of the adapter with some vice grips. On the blades of the piggyback adapter I connected the Metra 72-7800 harness that goes to the factory speaker female connector and my speaker wires that go to my line output converter. For style and strain relief I sleeved the Metra harness and speaker wire with paracord and heat shrink from the hardware store. Just for good measure, I put dielectric terminal "bulb" grease on each contact to prevent corrosion and make everything easy to disconnect in the future.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...Dorman+Conduct-Tite&mc=CTI&pt=N0840&ppt=C0189

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...k=Search_N1753_5229342_291&pt=N1753&ppt=C0189

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...h_bulb+grease_5229342_291&keyword=bulb+grease

https://www.amazon.com/Metra-72-7800-Connector-Harnesses-Vehicles/dp/B0002BEPJY

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-8-in-x-1-ft-Blue-and-Gray-Camo-Paracord-71506/207020069

Picture of connections to the male speaker connector (the sleeves are pulled back for identification when connecting, but can be slid all the way up to the terminals so no wires will show on the final install)

IMG_20170414_173815.jpg


Left side (also shows my distribution block, insulated with 2 in" heat shrink that hasn't been shrunk yet)

IMG_20170414_225441.jpg


Right side (also shows my ground point with decal preventing corrosion on the area where I sanded off too much paint :p)

IMG_20170414_192834.jpg
 

number41

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I bought the P300-10 for my sons 2017 ex. Will be a christmas gift so I have ~6 weeks before the install. I think I understand most everything. Got the RF 8 gauge wiring kit, etc.
Going to get the PAC LP7-2 Pro. From what I've read I don't need an LOC, I would just like to use one and it's pretty inexpensive.


My main issue is should I tap into the front or the rear speakers? I know it's "easier" to tap into rear deck speakers. But I would like to do the front if the sound will be better. In doing that I would still like the LOC mounted in the trunk. Partially for adjustments but also in case it ever goes bad. It'd be easier to swap out in the trunk rather than behind the head unit.
I guess one disadvantage is I would have to buy extra speaker wire, tap into the fronts behind the head unit, and run down the passenger side to the trunk.
Also, I know it's not necessary but I could tie to LOC ground and power into the P300 ground and power.
Any thoughts or advice?
 

IByrdl

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I bought the P300-10 for my sons 2017 ex. Will be a christmas gift so I have ~6 weeks before the install. I think I understand most everything. Got the RF 8 gauge wiring kit, etc.
Going to get the PAC LP7-2 Pro. From what I've read I don't need an LOC, I would just like to use one and it's pretty inexpensive.


My main issue is should I tap into the front or the rear speakers? I know it's "easier" to tap into rear deck speakers. But I would like to do the front if the sound will be better. In doing that I would still like the LOC mounted in the trunk. Partially for adjustments but also in case it ever goes bad. It'd be easier to swap out in the trunk rather than behind the head unit.
I guess one disadvantage is I would have to buy extra speaker wire, tap into the fronts behind the head unit, and run down the passenger side to the trunk.
Also, I know it's not necessary but I could tie to LOC ground and power into the P300 ground and power.
Any thoughts or advice?
Yes you definitely want to tap into the front for the best signal. I didn't even use an LOC just front speaker tap into my amp's high-level inputs and Viper4Android to tweak the EQ.

Ran the signal down the passenger side and power down the driver's side.
 

number41

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Yes you definitely want to tap into the front for the best signal. I didn't even use an LOC just front speaker tap into my amp's high-level inputs and Viper4Android to tweak the EQ.

Ran the signal down the passenger side and power down the driver's side.
Thanks for the quick reply.

SO, you just cut off RCA ends of the harness it comes with and connected that to speaker wire and ran up to front R&L behind head unit? I have some of those posi taps to connect there.
Do you think 16 gauge wire is OK or should I go 14? All copper either way.

I have never heard of Viper4Android. I'll google it. Do I need it? This is for my son and he has an iphone.
 

IByrdl

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Thanks for the quick reply.

SO, you just cut off RCA ends of the harness it comes with and connected that to speaker wire and ran up to front R&L behind head unit? I have some of those posi taps to connect there.
Do you think 16 gauge wire is OK or should I go 14? All copper either way.

I have never heard of Viper4Android. I'll google it. Do I need it? This is for my son and he has an iphone.
I had just woke up and didn't read the whole post and thought you were talking about the audio control active LOC (LC2i) that people use to bring back bass frequencies.

You definitely don't want to go cutting up your RCA and splicing it to speaker wire. My amp can use RCA or high-level speaker wire inputs (see picture). From what I can tell from that model you're looking at it only has RCA inputs, so you would still need a basic LOC like you mentioned to take speaker wire in and output RCA. It's small enough that you should be able to just velcro tape it to the sub box, that's what I did in my old car with a non-active LOC like that one. It doesn't need any power/ground, just speaker in and RCA out.

Viper4Android is not required for a sub but helps fix the harshness that a lot of people, including myself, feel from the speakers. It requires rooting the head unit using Honda Hack which is like a $10 program, but since he has an iPhone it would only work with bluetooth and not CarPlay.

apiau9vcn__58031.1603268380.jpg
 

number41

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The post didn't notify me of a reply. Thanks.

Here's waht I am talking about. I'll try to link the instruction page that mentions cutting the RCA ends off the provided harness and attaching speaker wires. Am I looking at this correctly? I certainly don't mind buying a LOC but alot of info shows I do not need one.
Here's a link or picture.


p300inmage.jpg
 

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