DIY: H&R Springs Civic Hatchback Sport - Review

Shinjari

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Good day CivicX!

Well after deliberating for ages I finally went and bought some lowering springs for my 2017 Civic Hatchback Sport. I was patiently waiting SWIFT brand springs but they seem to only be working on a set for SI's and have already released their CTR springs. Figured the Spec-R Springs for the SI would be too much for the non-SI dampers so I was back to picking between non-SI options.

I was torn between Eibach Pro/Sportline and H&Rs.

OEM Sport Hatch – 130 Front 160 Rear lb/in
OEM SI – 145 Front 208 Rear lb/in
SWIFT Spec-R – 212 Front 307 Rear lb/in

Eibach Pro - 157 Front 120-183 Rear (progressive) lb/in
Eibach Sportline - 141 Front 103 Rear (always felt this was a typo) lb/in
H&R - TBD (going to call and try and find out)

The SWIFTS are nearly double the spring rate of my current OEM setup which seems a tad…much considering the Spec-r’s were likely verified/tested using SI struts which are different due to the adaptive suspension.

I've had Swifts, Eibach Pros and H&Rs on previous cars and all did well.

After thinking the Pro's were not low enough...and the Sportlines would require the camber arms and be too low for me (I know this is subjective) I opted for the H&R's because their claimed drop (1.2/1.0) was in-between the Pro's (0.7/1.0) and Sportlines (1.4/1.2) and the H&R's may not require the camber arms.

Ordered from TireRack at noon Tuesday and it was delivered the next day. Crazy fast.

Opened it up to find the (4) springs. Didn't realize they were a dark blue. Always thought they were black haha. Came with (2) H&R stickers, a US Flag sticker, a warning disclaimer sticker, a warranty info sheet, technical sheet telling about bumpstop trimming and a spacer brochure.

Pics of Box, Item number, Goodies, Springs.
Honda Civic 10th gen DIY: H&R Springs Civic Hatchback Sport - Review 20180727_143928
Honda Civic 10th gen DIY: H&R Springs Civic Hatchback Sport - Review 20180727_143944
Honda Civic 10th gen DIY: H&R Springs Civic Hatchback Sport - Review 20180727_144013
Honda Civic 10th gen DIY: H&R Springs Civic Hatchback Sport - Review 20180727_144022
Honda Civic 10th gen DIY: H&R Springs Civic Hatchback Sport - Review 20180727_144048
Honda Civic 10th gen DIY: H&R Springs Civic Hatchback Sport - Review 20180727_144159

Installation was fairly easy. There isn't a definitive written DIY (that I was able to find) but I watched the available installations people posted on the good old youtubes. They all had some pros and cons to their approaches and I'll do my best to list my approach. I didn't take pictures with the intent of doing a DIY but I can at least walk through it and if my pictures I have are good enough I'll edit for visual help.

This was the method I went with. Please comment if you have changes. This is the 5th suspension install I've done. I've done both lowering springs and coilovers on the cars I've owned previously.

Tools:
  • Jack
  • Jack Stands (I used 4 to get the whole car off the ground)
  • Impact Wrench (used my trusty Milwaukee m18 mid-torque impact)
  • Rubber Mallet or Deadblow
  • 5mm hex key
  • 6mm hex key
  • 12mm wrench and/or socket
  • 14mm wrench and/or socket
  • 17mm wrench and/or socket
  • 19mm wrench (wheel lugs)
  • Flat head screwdriver or 90 degree pick tool
  • Spring compressors (borrowed from Auto Parts store for a deposit or can be bought for about $20-$25).
Preparation
  • Gather tools, water/favorite drink, gloves/eye protection.
  • Park Car on level surface.
  • Loosen Lugs (can do later if you have impact tools) with 19mm socket (OEM lugs) and wheel lock if equipped.
  • Jack car up safely. There is a front jacking point more or less under the shifter area and rear jacking point on just to the left/driver side of the center exhaust.
  • Place jack stands in appropriate locations.
  • Remove wheels and set aside. (good opportunity for a rotation)
Front Spring removal/installation.

  1. Remove front sway link from Strut using 14mm socket to remove nut. May require 5mm hex and a 14mm wrench. My impact made it easy.
  2. Remove ABS line from bracket by hand and using a pick tool remove clip from bracket.
  3. Remove 12mm Nut to remove brake line from bracket.
    • I think you can remove the bracket holding both the brake line and abs sensor wire instead of removing the brake line and abs line separately. but didn't take note of the nut size, I'd guess it was a 12 or 14mm.
  4. Locate the (3) 17mm nuts under the Lower Control arm (LCA) holding the knuckle to the LCA. Remove these nuts.
  5. Locate the 17mm bolt going through the knuckle at the base of the strut assembly. Remove this bolt.
  6. Here is the tricky part. The video's I saw had everyone rigorously man handling the knuckle to remove the strut. From prior experience with FWD cars I didn't want to risk separating the CV axle from the joint/knuckle/trans or stretch/damage brake/ABS lines. Has never happened to me, but have heard/read the horror stories.
  7. Press down on the LCA and separate it from the knuckle assembly/ball joint bracket.
    • Be careful with the CV Boot. There is a bracket/gusset on the LCA that sticks up and can possibly damage the boot if you rest it against it or are careless.
  8. Using a rubber mallet/dead blow, tap the knuckle in a downwards motion to slide it off the strut.
    • This was the part where people in the videos were jumping on the knuckle, pressing on it in an erratic motion, shaking it violently, drop kicking it, etc. Shouldn’t need to man handle it to remove it, I sure didn’t have to.
  9. With the Knuckle and LCA separated, the knuckle assembly should slide off the strut with some taps from your mallet. Just be careful to support the knuckle once it's separated. I used my jack underneath it.
  10. Go up to the engine bay.
  11. Locate and loosen the 17mm nut at the top of the strut but do NOT fully remove it.
    • Impact made this easy to do. If you do not have an impact this step may have to be done with the car still on the ground and a nice lengthy breaker bar.
  12. Locate and loosen the (3) 14mm nuts at the top in the engine bay holding the top of the strut.
  13. Support the strut and remove the (3) 14mm nuts holding the top of the strut assembly to the chassis.
  14. Remove the strut.
  15. Using your spring compressor compress the springs until tension if removed from the top plate of the strut.
    • The model spring compressor I had used a 19mm or 3/4" wrench to tighten.
  16. Remove the 17mm nut from the top plate/strut.
  17. Remove dust boot, top plate, bumpstop and spring from strut.
  18. Remove the bottom rubber mounting gasket from the spring.

  19. Per H&R Technical instructions provided cut the bumpstop approximately 1" from the TOP. The top is the larger diameter section. Install back onto strut.
  20. Install the dustboot and top plate to the H&R Spring. It just twists on and there is a stop to know it is fully seated.
  21. Install the bottom rubber mounting gasket to the H&R Spring. It just twists on.
  22. Since the H&R spring is much shorter than the OEM, you may or may not have to compress it to get the top nut installed. I opted to compress it slightly to make it easier.
  23. Slide spring over the strut and line up the bottom rubber mounting gasket to the strut.
  24. Tighten the 17mm nut.
    • Impact didn't help here. The strut shaft just kept spinning. I had to use a 6mm hex/allen through a deep 17mm socket which I held with vise grips since the nut is recessed under the top plate.
  25. Reverse steps 1 thru 14 to reinstall into car.
    • Trick to installing the knuckle assembly back on LCA is to support the knuckle with a jack and simultaneously push the LCA down. Push the knuckle into place and boom done.
    • Trick to installing strut to knuckle is to get it started and tap the knuckle from underneath with your rubber mallet/deadblow in an upward motion. The strut will slowly seat into the knuckle. It shouldn't just drop in...at least it didn't for me on either side.
  26. Repeat on other side.
Honda Civic 10th gen DIY: H&R Springs Civic Hatchback Sport - Review 20180727_144101
Honda Civic 10th gen DIY: H&R Springs Civic Hatchback Sport - Review 20180727_171724
Honda Civic 10th gen DIY: H&R Springs Civic Hatchback Sport - Review 20180727_172027
Honda Civic 10th gen DIY: H&R Springs Civic Hatchback Sport - Review 20180728_080332



Rear Spring removal/installation.
  1. Remove both rear sway bar links from rear sway bar using a 5mm hex key and 14mm wrench.
  2. Support Lower Control Arm (LCA) with Jack.
  3. Remove outer lower control arm bolt with 17mm socket.
  4. Slowly lower the jack to drop the LCA.
  5. Remove jack after LCA is fully disengaged from the knuckle/brake assembly.
  6. Make note of how the lower spring mounting gasket is installed to the LCA. There are (2) tabs/nipples that line up and stick out through the bottom of the LCA.
  7. Press down on the LCA and grab the OEM Rear spring. There should be sufficient space to easily remove it.
  8. Transfer the top rubber mounting gasket to the new spring.
  9. Remove the bottom rubber gasket from the OEM spring and install it back into the LCA. I found that those tabs/nipples are difficult to line up with the spring installed.
  10. Install/twist the spring into the lower rubber gasket. The Bottom of the H&R spring is end with the plastic sleeving. Or another way to tell is ensure the letters/numbers are right side up on the spring when you install.
  11. Using floor jack slowly lift the LCA and line up the spring with the top provisions and line up the bolt hole between the knuckle/brake assembly and LCA.
  12. Install bolt with 17mm socket.
  13. Repeat for other side.
  14. With both springs installed reconnect the sway link to the sway bar with the 14mm nut you previously removed. Will likely have to use the 5mm hex/allen and 14mm wrench again.
    • If you haven't already, this would be a good opportunity to install a SI or CTR or aftermarket Rear Sway bar.
  15. Per H&R Instructions you do NOT have to trim the rear bumpstop.
    • Some other brand springs tell you to trim the rear bump stop like Eibach. If you need to trim the rear, you should be able to just move the dustboot to gain access. Strut removal should not be needed but since I did not have to trim mine, I cannot fully verify this at this time.
  • Other methods I saw to remove the spring was to remove the rear strut and have someone press down on the assembly while the 2nd person manhandles the spring out.
  • Also saw someone remove the Camber bolt to drop the LCA. Wanted to minimize the camber changes so I opted to do the bolt that attaches to the knuckle, not the subframe. Sure it'll still change the camber some, but not as drastically as removing the camber bolt itself.

Honda Civic 10th gen DIY: H&R Springs Civic Hatchback Sport - Review 20180727_184403
Honda Civic 10th gen DIY: H&R Springs Civic Hatchback Sport - Review 20180728_080227


Threw the wheels back on, lowered the rear to the ground first. Then since I had minimal jack clearance BEFORE lowering, I opted to put some 2x4 planks under each from wheel to act as spacers to ensure I could get my jack out from under the car.

Here is a before pic. Look at that HUGE gap all around.

Honda Civic 10th gen DIY: H&R Springs Civic Hatchback Sport - Review 20180727_124440


Here is an after pic. Shadow hides some of the drop. Tried my best to take the pic from the same angle/conditions/location.
Honda Civic 10th gen DIY: H&R Springs Civic Hatchback Sport - Review 20180729_162045


Front Wheel Gap. Just larger than a 1 finger gap. I laid my finger flat on the tire and there was a tiny bit of room before the arch. My index finger measures at roughly 3/4" across.

Honda Civic 10th gen DIY: H&R Springs Civic Hatchback Sport - Review 20180730_063005_HDR
Honda Civic 10th gen DIY: H&R Springs Civic Hatchback Sport - Review 20180730_063040_HDR


Rear wheel gap. Less than 1 finger gap as I had to put my finger in at an angle.
Honda Civic 10th gen DIY: H&R Springs Civic Hatchback Sport - Review 20180730_063020
Honda Civic 10th gen DIY: H&R Springs Civic Hatchback Sport - Review 20180730_063048_HDR


First impressions: I am very satisfied with this kit. Ride comfort is practically unaltered from stock. Not stiff or anything from the 75 miles I've done since installing. There was one section that the rear seemed to be a teeny tiny bit bouncy but maybe I just never paid attention to that section of my commute before.

It definitely flattens the car though the turns and minimizes body roll especially in conjunction with the SI Rear Sway I installed. Have not scraped on anything (yet...) and imagine if I do it'll be the plastic aero pieces that hang really low and are WAY under the front of the car in front of the wheels, not the actual painted lip on the bumper.

Now that it's lowered and have 15mm spacers. I can clearly tell that an 18x8.5 +35mm will easily NOT rub. So I may have to go a hair wider with a 18x9 +35 just to get more flush but not risk rubbing or require fender modification. I have seen people run 18x9.5+35s with allegedly no issues with rubbing, just had to modify the front screw tab by the signal.

I tried to take some measurements but my driveway is clearly not as flat as I thought it was. So these measurements aren't nearly as precise as I would have hoped.

OEM Measurements
Ground to Wheel Arch
Front - 27"
Rear - 26.875"

Wheel Center to Wheel Arch
Front - 14.5"
Rear - 14.375"

Wheel Gap
Front - 2.125"
Rear - 2"

After H&R Installed (<100 miles)
Ground to Wheel Arch
Front - 25.875"
Rear - 24.75"

Wheel Center to Wheel Arch
Front - 13.375"
Rear - 13.255"

Wheel Gap
Front - 1"
Rear - 0.875"

So it seems like roughly 1.125" drop up front and rear. After I've driven a bit I'll try to find a more level surface and take measurements again.

Thanks for looking. Hope this helps.

UPDATE 08/03/18: After 150 miles Civic rides great. I've gotten several compliments on how it looks and rides. It is a little stiffer so you do feel a little bit more of the road but nothing extreme. I haven't ridden in any other 10th gen so I can't comment on how they compare to other springs and as we know comfort is very subjective.

Not sure if the change in ride because of the springs, the SI RSB...or both just make it more apparent since both added stiffness to the car. I'm sure once somebody....anybody comes out with some aftermarket struts this will help tremendously with this. Still want to reach out to H&R to see if they can provide spring rates.
 
Last edited:

spaceboy

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Thanks for the writeup! So much easier to follow than skipping around a video for the step you need.
 
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Shinjari

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Extremely thorough. Thanks for taking the time to write this up!
Thanks. Hopefully can add some torque values when I find them.

Thanks for the writeup! So much easier to follow than skipping around a video for the step you need.
One of the main reasons I wrote it. Trying to watch a video while you do it or take notes etc just wasn't what I wanted to do. Not to mention the forum didn't appear to have a step by step that I could find.
 

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Impressive write up! Please update the thread once you hear back the spring rates from H&R to give everyone a place of comparison.
 


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Shinjari

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Impressive write up! Please update the thread once you hear back the spring rates from H&R to give everyone a place of comparison.
Definitely! More info is always better ;)

Nice write-up! Have you gotten an alignment? I'm wondering what rear camber will be like and if there is enough toe adjustment to get toe back to zero after the drop.
Thanks. Have not gotten an alignment. On the fence about new wheels so figure I'd wait a little on whether I buy new wheels before getting an alignment. Car still drives straight, nothing looks crazy out of the ordinary. I'm sure it is a little out of spec though. I'll update with numbers and whether or not I was able to get the rear within OEM spec.
 
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Shinjari

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what spacers did you get?
I forget the brand but they are 15mm hub-centric spacers that I got in the Marketplace here from another member.

@Kane666 They work well, but just know that the 15mm spacers will require you to make some 'pockets' in the wheels for the OEM studs to fit in. Basically the 15mm spacers leave some of the OEM stud sticking out past the flush surface of the spacer. With the sport/SI wheels, there are 'pockets' between each lug...but they are not large enough to clear the tip of the stud. I learned this the hard way. Installed my wheels...and when I went to remove them to install the H&R springs all 4 wheels were basically stuck due to the tips of the lugs digging into the rim.

After using my dead blow I was eventually able to remove the wheels...saw the damage to the lug tips and wheel. I grinded down the area on the rim and no more issue. I had to clean the lug tips, chase 1 of them due to me trying to put a lug on without cleaning the threads but they were fine. They are made of a tougher metal than the wheels so the aluminum from the wheels 'gave' before damaging the studs. I will have to try and dig up a picture of the issue/solution.

People who run 20mm spacers do not have this issue because the extra 5mm is all that's needed to ensure the lug tips are below the flush surface on the spacer.

As for the H&R's they are performing great. I've had several people compliment me on the look and how the ride felt. Some said they couldn't tell a difference in ride comfort. Since I drive it nearly everyday...I'd say the H&R's are pretty comfortable for an aftermarket spring. They are very comfortable and provide some handling improvements especially for a DD. I've done the whole super low route and I'm just tired of the having to drive 2mph into driveways, over speed bumps, scraping on EVERYTHING. The only thing that scrapes when exiting certain driveways is the low hanging plastic pieces under the car about a foot behind the front bumper and on each side.

I don't think they settled/dropped anymore than initially...maybe a tiny bit but nothing drastic.

I like that it's low, but not SO low that I have to drive 2mph over things. But it is low enough that I'm very cautious of parking blocks. Also, even with the 15mm spacers (essentially a 18x8 +35) I do NOT rub.

Looking forward to seeing if Koni comes out with some struts.
 

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so go with 10mm or 20mm spacers on stock 18s and i should be ok?

with the h&r springs...did you run the camber kit? itll be a 2" drop for me so i feel its iffy. id rather do it in one shot than having to go under twice.
 


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Shinjari

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@Kane666 Depends on how the 10mm spacers are. If they are bolt-on like the 15-20mm, then you will have the same issue I ran into. But if they are just spacers like the picture below then you should be ok. I just don't like that they are not hubcentric on the wheel side like the bolt-on ones are.

Honda Civic 10th gen DIY: H&R Springs Civic Hatchback Sport - Review 5lug-5mm-spacer-5-800x800


This thread shows/talks about the same thing I encountered.
https://www.civicx.com/threads/sold-—-garageline-15mm-spacers-like-new.20333/

Here's a picture showing where the OEM studs hit the wheel. I guess he says he had the same issue with 20mm but they werent as bad...but still dug into the rim like the 15mm.

I just made those pockets where the stud was hitting bigger and now I have no issues.

As for camber kit I did not run a camber kit. I took it in for an alignment at a buddies shop and it was within spec. Taking his word for it since I have no print out.

Honda Civic 10th gen DIY: H&R Springs Civic Hatchback Sport - Review 2
 
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Shinjari

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Figured I'd update this. Car still drives great. Springs performing as intended. The only thing I've noticed is that when I go slow over bumps/driveways, I hear the strut cycle. Its like a creak/squeak like opening an old barn door. It only happens when the suspension cycles slowly over a dip/speedbump/driveway. Doesn't do it under normal conditions, pot holes etc. Obviously wouldn't hear it if you had the radio turned on. Also, its primarily passenger front. I have heard it on the driver front and passenger rear but only once in blue moon. Passenger front seems to happen more often.

Planning to get some wheels at some point and maybe rear camber arms if the price is right. I'd rather be in the middle of the camber spec than on the edges.
 

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Figured I'd update this. Car still drives great. Springs performing as intended. The only thing I've noticed is that when I go slow over bumps/driveways, I hear the strut cycle. Its like a creak/squeak like opening an old barn door. It only happens when the suspension cycles slowly over a dip/speedbump/driveway. Doesn't do it under normal conditions, pot holes etc. Obviously wouldn't hear it if you had the radio turned on. Also, its primarily passenger front. I have heard it on the driver front and passenger rear but only once in blue moon. Passenger front seems to happen more often.

Planning to get some wheels at some point and maybe rear camber arms if the price is right. I'd rather be in the middle of the camber spec than on the edges.
Sorry for updating an old thread, but you have any updated pictures?
 
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Shinjari

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Hi @Stenguyen1 I mean I could take pics of the car as it sits but it honestly hasnt changed much from the pics in the original post. Still rides great and looks right where I want it. Here are 2 pics I quickly found in my phone.

Honda Civic 10th gen DIY: H&R Springs Civic Hatchback Sport - Review 20190120_121416_HDR


Honda Civic 10th gen DIY: H&R Springs Civic Hatchback Sport - Review 20190401_070403
 

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I see no tire wear , that’s a plus , unless you already had the car aligned , I always used the H&R’s on my cars , I just picked up an SI, and will probably get these springs for my car
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