Blacklude4
Senior Member
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- Apr 10, 2017
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- Location
- Washington
- Vehicle(s)
- 1993 Prelude VTEC, 1990 Civic EX hatch, 2018 civic Si coupe
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- #1
I figured I would throw this DIY guide out there just in case anybody else is a light freak like me. I love the look of the side mirror turn signal lights in the touring trims, so decided to modify my Si to have the same. Total cost of project was around $165 in parts and a couple hours of time. You can buy the pre-built mirrors and throw them on, but with the lanewatch camera it drives the cost up to around $300....ouch.
The only down side to this is that the touring trim has a chrome strip on the front side of mirror housing. I personally like it-it ties in with the window chrome which I do not plan on deleting. I also have Lunar Silver so it blends a bit. The piece could easily be painted or wrapped before assembly. Another thing to note is that the chrome is "supposed" to continue on to the mirror base on car side. You would also need to order the triangular trim piece that is against the door to have that. Not sure on part numbers, as it is not listed with the rest of the mirror pieces.
As always, follow this tutorial at your own risk. Many of these parts are not meant to be disassembled. They can, and do break. You will also be working within the electrical system...if you are not comfortable with this don't do it! I am not responsible for any issues you may create to your car, property or body, or anyone around you on and off the road from doing this mod! Make sure you disconnect the battery! This will keep you from shorting things out as well as possibly decapitating yourself from an accidental airbag launch. Also, do not rely on this guide for re-assembly. I may have missed a step or two. Take notes and take pictures as you go...
**And one last note: This mod will require a trip to the dealer to have your Lane Watch camera "re-aimed". **
Part #'s that are required:
(QTY-1) 76205-TBC-A12ZA (Right Housing)
(QTY-1) 76255-TBC-A12ZA (Left Housing)
(QTY-1) 34300-TBA-A01 (Right Turn Light Assembly)
(QTY-1) 34350-TBA-A01 (Left Turn Light Assembly)
(QTY-1) 76206-TBC-A11 (Right Wire Harness)
(QTY-1) 76256-TBC-A11 (Left Wire Harness)
(QTY-4) 90109-SAG-H01 (Tapping screw 4x14 truss)
I ordered the wire harness so I would have the OEM plug for the lights. The heated and power functions of the mirrors are the same between trims. This harness only gets you down to the door plug that is just below the door sail. From there two wires per door will have to be routed into the cab and tied in with the turn circuit.
Below is the new light and the 'new' compared to old housing pieces. New is the bottom of each pair. I forgot to take a picture of the wire harness...
On to the guide...this is all on the passenger side with lane watch camera. Drivers side is exactly the same, minus the camera/wires.
-Disconnect the negative battery terminal under the hood.
-Remove interior door panel and door sail panel (where tweeter is mounted). There are videos around that show how to remove these pieces. Just be aware there is a slight difference in how the panels are taken off between sedans and coupes.
-Unplug the wire connector. If you use a small pick you can release the zip tie and reuse it. They did send a new one with the parts though.
-Take the three 10mm nuts off. There is a white clip also holding the mirror on, but I would suggest putting a hand on the mirror as you take the last nut off just to be safe. Pull mirror straight away from door and guide wires through hole.
Now the mirror itself needs to come off. Move the mirror around so you can see down behind it. I started at the outside of mirror on opposite end from car. I used a panel tool to try and keep from scratching/breaking the mirror. You need to separate the mirror from the white mount. Insert tool and lightly twist between the mirror and white mount. It will pop out of the hooks. Work your way around mirror until all 4 locations have come loose. There are two wires hooked to the back of the mirror, so once loose do not pull away too far!
This is the backside of the mirror. The tabs in circles are what you are trying to "pop" apart from the white mirror mount:
Unplug Mirror heater element wires-I slid a pry tool over the top of the terminal and pinched that with my thumb as I unplugged the terminal. These are basically just glued on so pulling connector off without support could cause the element to delaminate and be garbage...
To get the white mounting plate off, use a screw driver and push the key ring down past the tabs-see below. Once there, pop the rubber boots up. Make sure they remain seated at the small end on the threaded rod. This needs to be done before assembly later on. Take two hands and pry straight out. It will make noise as you pull the threads out.... Be aware of the white grease on pivots and posts. Keep clear of it and keep it clean as you will be leaving the grease in place and re-using.
If your white posts stayed in the white plate you are good....if not, see this from CollegeHills. You will need to reseat the posts into the white plate. I actually found it easier for reassembly to have the posts in the white plate. (This is opposite what the following directions show) These install directions are for a Type R, but same idea. What I am pointing you to is making sure the orientation of the posts are correct-they have a tab and only insert into white plate in one direction. Thanks to @jdmorangefever for the link:
http://www.collegehillshonda.com/instructions/civic/2017/typer/doormirrorcovers.pdf
From here I separated the mirror housing from the car side base. First, swing the mirror housing to the side to expose a screw. Support the triangle base on both ends as you do this-prying on one side to swing mirror could end badly...Once you take that out put Mirror housing back in 'normal' position-it makes it easier when re-assembling later on. Take out the 3 screws under the small panel on bottom of base.
Cut the door end of the wire harness off. I left about 3 inches of wire hanging out of plug so I knew where to put the new ones(they send you a NEW plug with the parts kit, as well as all wires already have the plug pins crimped onto the ends) You also need to peel away the foam tape that is wrapped around the rubber boot before it enters the mirror assembly. They send new tape with the parts.
Peel back the foam pad as well as the rubber gasket below it-My gaskets were glued in one corner so I left them on. You just need enough room to pull the wire harness out of the keeper tabs below and then out through the mirror base. There should be a piece of colored tape on the harness. Pay attention to where it is before your pull the harness out. You can match it to your new harness and put a piece of tape on the new one-this will help you line up the new harness when you reinstall. Set the base aside for now.
Now you can pull the two housing pieces apart. There are two screws on the face of what was behind the mirror. There is also two plastic tabs-look at your new housings and you can see where they are. One is on the car side of housing, one is on the bottom side where they meet.
Pull the wire harness out through the pivot assembly. Unplug the camera connector, and then pull the connector off of the housing. There is a tab to push to do each step.
From here it is time to install the new harness into the mirror actuators. Take out the 4 screws and lift the actuator housing out. There are two large white plugs. They are labeled A and B. This does not show in the picture. Pay attention to which goes where or your mirrors will end up working bass-ackwards. Pull the two plugs in from the hole, plug in and then put actuator assembly back together with the 4 screws. Be sure to double check the wires lay nice and do not get pinched when putting these back together.
Now install the chrome piece into new shell. It uses two screws with washers and a press on circular clip.
The light has two catches that slide into place at the opposite end of mounting holes. Use two of the screws that were ordered to mount the light to the posts. ( 90109-SAG-H01) Check outside the housing, the light should be flush if installed properly. Swap the camera housing over as well. They sent a new camera mount piece, but I just re-used my old one. The camera is held to housing with one screw. Do not remove the screw circled "no". Also be sure to route the camera wire under the catch-just left of the word cam in the picture.
Make sure your wires are routed correctly. Don't forget to plug in the light connector. Connect the camera wires and remount to the clip post. Route the heater wires out the hole. Reassemble the two housing halves. Re-route the harness through the pivot assembly, make sure all wires are good and put the two screws back in that hold the two halves together. Make sure the actuator assembly is seated properly on the two post seen below before you join the outer shells.
Reinstall everything else in reverse order. When you join the mirror assembly back to the car side base assembly, double check the rubber pad between the two is seated. I had to re-insert the tab. You will also want to make sure the wire harness passes through the pivot assembly with a bit of slack. And I mean a bit...this is Honda. The harness is EXACT. Give too much slack and your wires won't make it to the plug. You won't figure this out until you are completely reassembled... The mirror pivots around the harness when retracted. If tight, you will have some shorted wires in no time. The triangular rubber gasket has press fit tabs on the bottom, and T slots on top-check them, mine came out.
When you re-install the white plate to the actuator housing, don't forget the key ring. Slide it on until it stops. Also make sure the white posts are perpendicular to the white plate. Check the rubber boots and verify they are seated properly on the white plate end. Line everything up and push on. Takes a bit of force. Use a trim tool and push bottom of boots in place. Plug in the heater wires-it does not matter which wire goes where. This also applies when you plug the other ends into door harness plug. You can now pop the mirror itself back in place. Line up the white plate with the black tabs-will take force. Make sure you are pressing on mirror DIRECTLY over the black tabs. I rotated the mirror down in the 4 different directions to give me some leverage at each location. When you think they are good, shine a light in and check all 8 tabs. I had to go back a couple times to get them to all seat properly.
Mount the mirror back onto car. You need to plug all the wires into the new white plug. Match exact locations as old plug. The metal crimps on the wires lock in place, and only work in one direction. Look at your old plug for orientation. TRIPLE CHECK WHERE YOU ARE PLUGGING YOUR WIRES INTO THE WHITE PLUG...these are very difficult to "unpin" without damage. I can't stress this enough...check it again before you shove that wire in and hear the "click".....Did you check it 14 times!?
The pink and purple wires are for the light. I DID NOT insert these into the plug as I do not have this style of pins lying around. I believe @17CivicTypeR_Brian is having a hell of a time finding them for his mirror project...besides that, they do require a special crimping tool. I will most likely just crimp and liquid tape them and call it a day.
Plug in your harness to the door plug. Once you like how it sits, apply some of the foam tape around the rubber grommet to harness. Install skull cap. Study the backside of that cap. The tabs are easy to break even when putting back on...
Hooked to 12 volts just to see
And this is where I will stop for now...I am losing my car for the week while it gets window tint, full detail/polish and full frontal PPF. I hope to tackle the wiring the week after next. I haven't decided if I am going to just tie into the turn lights, or do a alternating type of set up. I would like to have the mirrors blink as the regular signal lights go out...will take a bit more research as I am not super savvy with electronics....we will see!
I will add the wiring to this tutorial when completed.
Thanks for reading!
The only down side to this is that the touring trim has a chrome strip on the front side of mirror housing. I personally like it-it ties in with the window chrome which I do not plan on deleting. I also have Lunar Silver so it blends a bit. The piece could easily be painted or wrapped before assembly. Another thing to note is that the chrome is "supposed" to continue on to the mirror base on car side. You would also need to order the triangular trim piece that is against the door to have that. Not sure on part numbers, as it is not listed with the rest of the mirror pieces.
As always, follow this tutorial at your own risk. Many of these parts are not meant to be disassembled. They can, and do break. You will also be working within the electrical system...if you are not comfortable with this don't do it! I am not responsible for any issues you may create to your car, property or body, or anyone around you on and off the road from doing this mod! Make sure you disconnect the battery! This will keep you from shorting things out as well as possibly decapitating yourself from an accidental airbag launch. Also, do not rely on this guide for re-assembly. I may have missed a step or two. Take notes and take pictures as you go...
**And one last note: This mod will require a trip to the dealer to have your Lane Watch camera "re-aimed". **
Part #'s that are required:
(QTY-1) 76205-TBC-A12ZA (Right Housing)
(QTY-1) 76255-TBC-A12ZA (Left Housing)
(QTY-1) 34300-TBA-A01 (Right Turn Light Assembly)
(QTY-1) 34350-TBA-A01 (Left Turn Light Assembly)
(QTY-1) 76206-TBC-A11 (Right Wire Harness)
(QTY-1) 76256-TBC-A11 (Left Wire Harness)
(QTY-4) 90109-SAG-H01 (Tapping screw 4x14 truss)
I ordered the wire harness so I would have the OEM plug for the lights. The heated and power functions of the mirrors are the same between trims. This harness only gets you down to the door plug that is just below the door sail. From there two wires per door will have to be routed into the cab and tied in with the turn circuit.
Below is the new light and the 'new' compared to old housing pieces. New is the bottom of each pair. I forgot to take a picture of the wire harness...
On to the guide...this is all on the passenger side with lane watch camera. Drivers side is exactly the same, minus the camera/wires.
-Disconnect the negative battery terminal under the hood.
-Remove interior door panel and door sail panel (where tweeter is mounted). There are videos around that show how to remove these pieces. Just be aware there is a slight difference in how the panels are taken off between sedans and coupes.
-Unplug the wire connector. If you use a small pick you can release the zip tie and reuse it. They did send a new one with the parts though.
-Take the three 10mm nuts off. There is a white clip also holding the mirror on, but I would suggest putting a hand on the mirror as you take the last nut off just to be safe. Pull mirror straight away from door and guide wires through hole.
Now the mirror itself needs to come off. Move the mirror around so you can see down behind it. I started at the outside of mirror on opposite end from car. I used a panel tool to try and keep from scratching/breaking the mirror. You need to separate the mirror from the white mount. Insert tool and lightly twist between the mirror and white mount. It will pop out of the hooks. Work your way around mirror until all 4 locations have come loose. There are two wires hooked to the back of the mirror, so once loose do not pull away too far!
This is the backside of the mirror. The tabs in circles are what you are trying to "pop" apart from the white mirror mount:
Unplug Mirror heater element wires-I slid a pry tool over the top of the terminal and pinched that with my thumb as I unplugged the terminal. These are basically just glued on so pulling connector off without support could cause the element to delaminate and be garbage...
To get the white mounting plate off, use a screw driver and push the key ring down past the tabs-see below. Once there, pop the rubber boots up. Make sure they remain seated at the small end on the threaded rod. This needs to be done before assembly later on. Take two hands and pry straight out. It will make noise as you pull the threads out.... Be aware of the white grease on pivots and posts. Keep clear of it and keep it clean as you will be leaving the grease in place and re-using.
If your white posts stayed in the white plate you are good....if not, see this from CollegeHills. You will need to reseat the posts into the white plate. I actually found it easier for reassembly to have the posts in the white plate. (This is opposite what the following directions show) These install directions are for a Type R, but same idea. What I am pointing you to is making sure the orientation of the posts are correct-they have a tab and only insert into white plate in one direction. Thanks to @jdmorangefever for the link:
http://www.collegehillshonda.com/instructions/civic/2017/typer/doormirrorcovers.pdf
From here I separated the mirror housing from the car side base. First, swing the mirror housing to the side to expose a screw. Support the triangle base on both ends as you do this-prying on one side to swing mirror could end badly...Once you take that out put Mirror housing back in 'normal' position-it makes it easier when re-assembling later on. Take out the 3 screws under the small panel on bottom of base.
Cut the door end of the wire harness off. I left about 3 inches of wire hanging out of plug so I knew where to put the new ones(they send you a NEW plug with the parts kit, as well as all wires already have the plug pins crimped onto the ends) You also need to peel away the foam tape that is wrapped around the rubber boot before it enters the mirror assembly. They send new tape with the parts.
Peel back the foam pad as well as the rubber gasket below it-My gaskets were glued in one corner so I left them on. You just need enough room to pull the wire harness out of the keeper tabs below and then out through the mirror base. There should be a piece of colored tape on the harness. Pay attention to where it is before your pull the harness out. You can match it to your new harness and put a piece of tape on the new one-this will help you line up the new harness when you reinstall. Set the base aside for now.
Now you can pull the two housing pieces apart. There are two screws on the face of what was behind the mirror. There is also two plastic tabs-look at your new housings and you can see where they are. One is on the car side of housing, one is on the bottom side where they meet.
Pull the wire harness out through the pivot assembly. Unplug the camera connector, and then pull the connector off of the housing. There is a tab to push to do each step.
From here it is time to install the new harness into the mirror actuators. Take out the 4 screws and lift the actuator housing out. There are two large white plugs. They are labeled A and B. This does not show in the picture. Pay attention to which goes where or your mirrors will end up working bass-ackwards. Pull the two plugs in from the hole, plug in and then put actuator assembly back together with the 4 screws. Be sure to double check the wires lay nice and do not get pinched when putting these back together.
Now install the chrome piece into new shell. It uses two screws with washers and a press on circular clip.
The light has two catches that slide into place at the opposite end of mounting holes. Use two of the screws that were ordered to mount the light to the posts. ( 90109-SAG-H01) Check outside the housing, the light should be flush if installed properly. Swap the camera housing over as well. They sent a new camera mount piece, but I just re-used my old one. The camera is held to housing with one screw. Do not remove the screw circled "no". Also be sure to route the camera wire under the catch-just left of the word cam in the picture.
Make sure your wires are routed correctly. Don't forget to plug in the light connector. Connect the camera wires and remount to the clip post. Route the heater wires out the hole. Reassemble the two housing halves. Re-route the harness through the pivot assembly, make sure all wires are good and put the two screws back in that hold the two halves together. Make sure the actuator assembly is seated properly on the two post seen below before you join the outer shells.
Reinstall everything else in reverse order. When you join the mirror assembly back to the car side base assembly, double check the rubber pad between the two is seated. I had to re-insert the tab. You will also want to make sure the wire harness passes through the pivot assembly with a bit of slack. And I mean a bit...this is Honda. The harness is EXACT. Give too much slack and your wires won't make it to the plug. You won't figure this out until you are completely reassembled... The mirror pivots around the harness when retracted. If tight, you will have some shorted wires in no time. The triangular rubber gasket has press fit tabs on the bottom, and T slots on top-check them, mine came out.
When you re-install the white plate to the actuator housing, don't forget the key ring. Slide it on until it stops. Also make sure the white posts are perpendicular to the white plate. Check the rubber boots and verify they are seated properly on the white plate end. Line everything up and push on. Takes a bit of force. Use a trim tool and push bottom of boots in place. Plug in the heater wires-it does not matter which wire goes where. This also applies when you plug the other ends into door harness plug. You can now pop the mirror itself back in place. Line up the white plate with the black tabs-will take force. Make sure you are pressing on mirror DIRECTLY over the black tabs. I rotated the mirror down in the 4 different directions to give me some leverage at each location. When you think they are good, shine a light in and check all 8 tabs. I had to go back a couple times to get them to all seat properly.
Mount the mirror back onto car. You need to plug all the wires into the new white plug. Match exact locations as old plug. The metal crimps on the wires lock in place, and only work in one direction. Look at your old plug for orientation. TRIPLE CHECK WHERE YOU ARE PLUGGING YOUR WIRES INTO THE WHITE PLUG...these are very difficult to "unpin" without damage. I can't stress this enough...check it again before you shove that wire in and hear the "click".....Did you check it 14 times!?
The pink and purple wires are for the light. I DID NOT insert these into the plug as I do not have this style of pins lying around. I believe @17CivicTypeR_Brian is having a hell of a time finding them for his mirror project...besides that, they do require a special crimping tool. I will most likely just crimp and liquid tape them and call it a day.
Plug in your harness to the door plug. Once you like how it sits, apply some of the foam tape around the rubber grommet to harness. Install skull cap. Study the backside of that cap. The tabs are easy to break even when putting back on...
Hooked to 12 volts just to see
And this is where I will stop for now...I am losing my car for the week while it gets window tint, full detail/polish and full frontal PPF. I hope to tackle the wiring the week after next. I haven't decided if I am going to just tie into the turn lights, or do a alternating type of set up. I would like to have the mirrors blink as the regular signal lights go out...will take a bit more research as I am not super savvy with electronics....we will see!
I will add the wiring to this tutorial when completed.
Thanks for reading!
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