CTR Rev Matching and Emissions Issues w/Check Engine light.

[redline]

Well add my 2019 ctr. Got the rev match emissions light taking off from a stop sign. What sucks is I just got done putting a prl dp fp and intercooler, hondata tune, legamax exhaust, guess I’ll call the dealership see if they’ll look at it. Had to drive 6 hours to get this guy in black for not over sticker price, so hopefully local guy understands. I know the owners wife has a white one, 2300 miles on mine. Wish me luck, I’ll keep ya’ll posted

If you have hondata read the code first and see what it is, most likely you missed a check box on the tune. People lose there shit immediately when the check engine/emissions shit comes on and are like zomg wiring harness. Literally any check engine light will trigger the emissions/rev match disable.

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[zdonsbach]

If you have hondata read the code first and see what it is, most likely you missed a check box on the tune. People lose there shit immediately when the check engine/emissions shit comes on and are like zomg wiring harness. Literally any check engine light will trigger the emissions/rev match disable.

Man hope you are right, but I’m pretty sure I double checked everything when I’ve reconnected it, but when I get back to my house tom night I’ll reconnect my laptop and make sure

 

[pnewton1958]

Man hope you are right, but I’m pretty sure I double checked everything when I’ve reconnected it, but when I get back to my house tom night I’ll reconnect my laptop and make sure

Had the Hondata tune on my CTR. The 2 warning lights came on after some pretty heavy rain and foolishly allowing my gas tank to approach dead empty around that time. Filled the tank and the warnings disappeared after a day or so.

 

[stuffle69]

Apologies if this has been summarized before, but since this will affect alot of owners I want to try to summarize 32 pages of discussion. Do I have this right, the below?

1) CTRs were built with two different engine harnasses, "Version 1" and "Version 2" (which has the TWO zip ties)
2) If you have harnass version 1 and it faults with the rev match/emission CEL, you'll likely get code P0035 which requires replacement of the entire harnass assembly
3) If your CTR was built with the version 2 harnass and you get a fault it will likely throw P2261 and instead of replacing the entire harnass you just need to replace the turbo bypass control valve which is less work than replacing the engine harnass

Sound right?

Have 2019 ctr with emission and rev match faults but my code is p0400 which is egr valve code is this total different problem? car only has 4000 miles on it could it need cleaned already?

 

[GeezR]

Add me to the Emissions problem/rev match fault club. Like djhartm,I assumed I could drive this car from the dealership (where I bought it 2 weeks ago), to the race track. I did that with my Evo and my M3 without issues. Fortunately, I read various posts here (after the purchase) about all the track issues. So I had at least upgraded my tires to Bridgestone RE71R's 265/35/18's and a cheap but presentable set of track wheels. Cost $200 each vs the stock wheels that cost $1,325 each. Brake pads were ordered Hawk makes a set of track pads for the Type-R, (available from Tire Rack where I got my wheel/tire package), ditto brake fluid but didn't get them installed.

I ran at Mid Ohio yesterday in the advanced group, with the heater blasting to assist with cooling, in R+ and VSA partially off. The car ran strong (130 mph on the back straight) and kept up with or passed 80% of the other cars (its no match for well driven 'Vettes, Camaros, GT3's etc.). But everything else was fair game.

It got interesting in the third run. My fuel gauge said 3/4 full but after 3 laps I had fuel starvation and the car went into limp mode (what an appropriate term...), as I entered the straight, so at 45 mph I am giving point byes to guys doing 140+ mph. Not fun, and extremely dangerous to all concerned. And I had to limp the 2+ miles back to the pits. I got the fault codes (emissions and rev) and they wouldn't go away. Although the gas gauge said 3/4 full, I put 9 &1/2 gallons in it. When I restarted limp mode was gone but the rev match still didn't work and the fault codes were there. I did all the standard stuff: on/off, drive normally off the tack for an hour, on/off, disconnect the battery, etc. Nothing cleared the codes.

As it happened there was a person there next to me who had worked on trouble shooting Type-R issues as part of his employment. He assured me the car was safe to drive on the track. So I did and improved my times every session. Finally, after the last session I parked it and put it in Comfort mode and the fault codes cleared. By the way, my gas gauge said 3/4's full again but it took 7 gallons. So the gas gauge is profoundly unreliable.

It was a warm/humid (75-82 degrees) day and the temp gauge went up when I was hammering it and would drop to normal after a half lap of taking it easy. After the limp mode episode I didn't want to have that happen again. I never was more than 3 bars from maximum.

I ran with VSA partially off. I an not sufficiently skilled to do better with no nannies. I ran with it "fully off" and wasn't as fast.

I had the same threshold braking "yaw" described by djhatm. And 2 times something kicked in that was the opposite of hyper-speed (hyper-braking?) and the car made a noise and decelerated so fast it snapped my neck forward violently-like hitting a wall. My Honda neighbor said the code was written to add boost to the brakes when it sensed imminent disaster. He also said the car's code is written to determine an over-heating issue when the car heats up too quickly, based on typical driving. So it can trigger limp mode if it heats up fast (like at a track day) even when its really not that hot.

Verdict: for $36K its a lot of car. It more than held its own on the track and was comfortable there and back. It has its well-known quirks and most can be worked around.

 

[fiend busa]

P2261

Got it this morning going WOT

No rev match error though just emissiona

 

[Ry-no]

I purchased my 2019 Type R two weeks ago and I received the Emissions System Problem and Rev-Match System Problem at 90 miles. Took the car to the dealership and it was just a software update that needed to be done. Once I hit 150 miles, the same messages reappeared. I have an appointment next Saturday to take it in (the only time I have available) to see what it is again. I feel horrible driving it around with the check engine light on, but due to my schedule, next Saturday is my only option for a visit. I haven't taken the car past 4k RPM, but the car is running perfectly fine with no weird noises or issues with acceleration and whatnot.

 

[jasonjm]

I also track a 2018 Z06, Z07 that is bone stock other than SRF & steel lines.

ZERO issues after a year of instructor thrashing at VIR.

This is not the first year CTR - Honda has had plenty of time to address birthing issues.

The rev match/emissions limp mode is a wide-spread problem that is dangerous when it occurs on track.

Thankfully both times it occurred I did not have someone riding my ass.

I thought I did sufficient research before buying this car but somehow missed this red flag.

I want to make a comparison. The ZL1 1LE has something like 11 heat exchangers. There are still high capacity exchangers for offer.

It’s like the GT350. Ford got sued for not offering an oil cooler. So many people got their panties in a bunch instead of buying the cooler that came with the much more expensive R model. People went so far as to trade in the car and take the loss from the sale AND buy of a new car - instead of buying the oil cooler.

The bottom line is if Honda were to put more exchangers on it probably would cost too much, and still might not be good enough for you.

My advice is to buy a new hood, and add more heat exchangers. If you track so much during hot seasons and still get warnings and don’t want to further deal with it then sell the car. Honda ain’t going to listen or read this forum. We understand, here on the forum.

We should have a sticky “Heating on Track”, with the first line being “Stock, the Type-R will overheat. If your an instructor, prepare to buy heat exchangers and a new hood/ modify with vents. If this is not your cup of tea please do not buy this car”.

 

[mcmario]

Does anybody know where to starter cut relay is for the FK8 or any 10th gen?

 

[Ry-no]

I want to make a comparison. The ZL1 1LE has something like 11 heat exchangers. There are still high capacity exchangers for offer.

It’s like the GT350. Ford got sued for not offering an oil cooler. So many people got their panties in a bunch instead of buying the cooler that came with the much more expensive R model. People went so far as to trade in the car and take the loss from the sale AND buy of a new car - instead of buying the oil cooler.

The bottom line is if Honda were to put more exchangers on it probably would cost too much, and still might not be good enough for you.

My advice is to buy a new hood, and add more heat exchangers. If you track so much during hot seasons and still get warnings and don’t want to further deal with it then sell the car. Honda ain’t going to listen or read this forum. We understand, here on the forum.

We should have a sticky “Heating on Track”, with the first line being “Stock, the Type-R will overheat. If your an instructor, prepare to buy heat exchangers and a new hood/ modify with vents. If this is not your cup of tea please do not buy this car”.

Jason,

What do you think about an oil cooler and upgraded intercooler for first mods? I did not plan to track my CTR, but I am not against the idea if the opportunity arises. I purchased the car because it checked so many boxes off for me, but I am curious about the overheating during spirited driving when the Texas heat comes back. Texas doesn't get Vegas hot, but triple digits are brutal regardless.

Ryan

 

[jasonjm]

Jason,

What do you think about an oil cooler and upgraded intercooler for first mods? I did not plan to track my CTR, but I am not against the idea if the opportunity arises. I purchased the car because it checked so many boxes off for me, but I am curious about the overheating during spirited driving when the Texas heat comes back. Texas doesn't get Vegas hot, but triple digits are brutal regardless.

Ryan

I think under spirited driving you should not get warnings even in Texas heat. Because you always have an opportunity to cool down and the car cools down fast enough for daily arid climate driving. What you will notice is decreased performance more so than any warnings.

The usual Intercooler, grill will suffice in keeping intake temps down.

From here consider ceramic coating or Ti inlets to further lower temps.

I think things like hood, oil coolers, bigger radiator are parts to consider only if tracking the car.

 

[JesterPerez26]

So, I picked my CTR up yesterday with 12 miles on it. I drove 3 miles down the road to get gas because I didn't want the dealership driving it. After I finished refueling it at Shell, I paired my phone and the Rev Match and Emissions error occurred. I went right back to the dealership to further evaluate the issue. They said that it was a soft connection on the O2 sensor. They disconnected and reconnected the wire clip and reset the ECU. He said that if it happens again, bring it back and they will order an O2 sensor. So, later that evening, I was driving and noticed a delay in acceleration on the tachometer (very similar to Rev Hang) compared to the deceleration when downshifting. Not even 2 seconds later, the Emissions Warning and Rev Match issue displayed on the screen. I'll be going to back to the dealership today. How many people are experiencing these same issue with their new CTRs? Upon further troubleshooting today at Honda, they found the problem. The wire in the #2 O2 Sensor was not crimped properly into the wiring harness. I'm waiting for my picture to upload so ya'll can see the issue you are faced with them.

Had the same issue this morning, after reading this thread I'm glad that it's not a serious issue from the car. I'm taking my CTR to the dealership to get it fixed.

 

[cle00]

Add me to the list. Just left the dealership with no answer as to what caused the Emissions System and Rev Match messages (P0456). Looking at others issues it appears the messages are generic in nature and the code really determines the detail of the issue. Mine triggered on cold start with Half a tank at 11k miles. Reset code, ran EVAP test, nothing found. Said to come back when it pops up again. Not sure if related to Cap less Gas Fill or something upfront like vacuum lines. Heck could even related to some of these harness issues. Only thing found that requires software update was the P0461 codes, haven't seen much on P0456.

Also, @Ry-no don't worry about Texas heat. I live in DFW and have had no issues with running hot or even acting sluggish.

 

[Ry-no]

Add me to the list. Just left the dealership with no answer as to what caused the Emissions System and Rev Match messages (P0456). Looking at others issues it appears the messages are generic in nature and the code really determines the detail of the issue. Mine triggered on cold start with Half a tank at 11k miles. Reset code, ran EVAP test, nothing found. Said to come back when it pops up again. Not sure if related to Cap less Gas Fill or something upfront like vacuum lines. Heck could even related to some of these harness issues. Only thing found that requires software update was the P0461 codes, haven't seen much on P0456.

Also, @Ry-no don't worry about Texas heat. I live in DFW and have had no issues with running hot or even acting sluggish.

Happy to hear about no issues with the heat, but sorry to hear that you are having the emissions issue. My dealership first did the software update and then during my second visit, they replaced a faulty sensor, the shutter valve in the fuel tank and the fuel neck. They did six evap or smoke tests and everything was good. Added 400+ miles since and have had zero issues.

 

[Whoneedsknow]

2019 white ctr here. K&N intake, AWE touring exhaust w/front pipe catless. Using Hondata flash pro on the 91 octane with k&n intake but stock otherwise preset tune. Driving for about 25 minutes then got on it from 2nd to 3rd and right when I shifted to 3rd, boost was like barely there and got the cel. Rev match problem, emissions system problem, the codes went away after I filled my gas tank oddly. I checked to see what codes were thrown and got p0101 MAF voltage overload or something along those lines. Safe to turn the code off in hondata? What's my best option because I am almost positive I will see this again. Thanks, Jarrod

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