1.5T CompTurbo Billet Wheel Upgrade

infiniteraiders

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I'm going to be dropping off my stock turbo at CompTurbo tomorrow to get a billet wheel upgrade. It's getting a larger 47mm inducer and extended tip 60mm exducer. Decided to go this route vs spending $1,600 on the drop in upgrade.

I currently have the 27Won Intake with Stage 1 KTuner. And with the turbo out of the car, I also ordered a RV6 downpipe. I've seen posts about engines blowing and rods coming out the engine(?) and I definitely don't want that happening.

Future mods are a front pipe, custom exhaust, intercooler and new clutch. I'm not trying to get too crazy, my goal is to hit 300hp without having to change out internals or blowing my motor. Being there not being too much out there with these motors as far as research, I need some help.

Am I at risk with my current trajectory to hit my goal? What are some things I should be looking out for? After the turbo/downpipe goes in.. I'm sure I should get a tune but what should I have the power limited to (until other upgrades)?



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I don't know of anyone else doing the turbo upgrade in that manner. You are an early adopter and this carries risk. I would seek out a reputable tuner and leave your car with them for as long as it takes for them to declare the tune is solid.

If you can find someone else who has done the same upgrade you could seek out their tune as a starting point.

Keel us posted and good luck.
 

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If it was me then I wouldn't go over " 50% over stock power " if you would like the engine to last long(er) .
For the Regular 1.5T engines the max stock power is 182hp + 50% = 270hp . For the SI this would be 300hp .
 

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If it was me then I wouldn't go over " 50% over stock power " if you would like the engine to last long(er) .
For the Regular 1.5T engines the max stock power is 182hp + 50% = 270hp . For the SI this would be 300hp .
It's a nice conservative sounding target, but until people start establishing a consistent breaking point.... nobody knows ( and nobody wants to find that breaking point! ).
Personally I've always stuck with the same +50% on stock internals thinking. I had a 2011 EvoX at 450whp and a 2002 WRX at 300whp. That WRX was sold to my younger brother, and by that time far more people had established that the EJ205 could make far more power. He's now making 450whp. For our 10th gen civics though, lacking a flux capacitor.... only time will tell.
 
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This is some great info. Thanks for that thread. No reason to rush to 300 HP. But that is my goal.

A clutch is definitely something I'll be upgrading once I get more power. Right now I just want the upgraded turbo and downpipe to be tuned so that the car runs smoothly without chances of anything blowing. Not too worried about going fast right now.
My fastest car was my 07 Si and I never tuned that. Just did bolt ons.
 
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infiniteraiders

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Hondanickx

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It's a nice conservative sounding target, but until people start establishing a consistent breaking point.... nobody knows ( and nobody wants to find that breaking point! ).
Personally I've always stuck with the same +50% on stock internals thinking. I had a 2011 EvoX at 450whp and a 2002 WRX at 300whp. That WRX was sold to my younger brother, and by that time far more people had established that the EJ205 could make far more power. He's now making 450whp. For our 10th gen civics though, lacking a flux capacitor.... only time will tell.

You're right about that ,nobody knows we're all guessing .I like to play it safe until there is more info out there about what the stock internals can handle over a longer period of time.Some engines make 350-400hp but i like to see how long these will last ...
I do think honda didn't over engineerd these engines as much as they did with the older engines .
Stronger parts means more weight which means worse fuel economy,and these days it's all about that.
 

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Know anything about the SPEC clutches?
Well, just looking at specification, spec stage 3+ is a better street driving and holds over 500wtq. Will be coming with both aluminum for max performance and steel for daily drivers. Their clutch will only work with their flywheel btw. But the BIGGEST advantage is no error code . Definitely the clutch/flywheel all tenth gen have been waiting for.
 

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I'm going to be dropping off my stock turbo at CompTurbo tomorrow to get a billet wheel upgrade. It's getting a larger 47mm inducer and extended tip 60mm exducer. Decided to go this route vs spending $1,600 on the drop in upgrade.

I currently have the 27Won Intake with Stage 1 KTuner. And with the turbo out of the car, I also ordered a RV6 downpipe. I've seen posts about engines blowing and rods coming out the engine(?) and I definitely don't want that happening.

Future mods are a front pipe, custom exhaust, intercooler and new clutch. I'm not trying to get too crazy, my goal is to hit 300hp without having to change out internals or blowing my motor. Being there not being too much out there with these motors as far as research, I need some help.

Am I at risk with my current trajectory to hit my goal? What are some things I should be looking out for? After the turbo/downpipe goes in.. I'm sure I should get a tune but what should I have the power limited to (until other upgrades)?
Heard from PRL that they are in the process of making a turbo drop in upgrade in addition to the big turbo upgrade kit they already have. So that'll be another option for a complete drop in turbo upgrade for everyone as well.
 

JDM_DOHC_SiR

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LilToTo17

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