Clutch knock or rattle

[lowlife.drew]

Just wanted a second opinion before I pull the trigger on a new clutch/flywheel. I have a 2019 Si.
Recently developed this knocking/rattle noise while driving, primarily from the driver’s side, in gear for the most part, very faint when coasting in neutral. Very pronounced from 1,800-3,000rpm range Doesn’t make any noise when neutral revving or at idle like a traditional rod knock. Had a buddy listen to it while I had the car in the air, sounds coming from where the trans mates to the engine. Less noticeable with the car in the air, less weight on the drivetrain so it doesn’t need to work so hard, leading me to say it IS clutch/flywheel issues. Honestly, I’m not too worried about rodknock/piston slap right now, based off of symptoms from a couple Z’s & Altimas coming through my shop. Haven’t found anything concerning in my oil. Change it every 2-3k miles. I’m FBO pretty much, stock clutch, threw the PRL flex fuel on, flashed the 27Won W1 flex fuel basemap on. 93oct with e85, running ~e35 mix, Castrol full-synthetic 5w30. New NGK plugs done like 3k miles ago. Did a couple pulls, clutch finally gave out and started slipping, now I have this noise. Anyone else run into a similar noise? I’m leaning on the clutch & flywheel just being toast Due to the symptoms and when they actually appeared. I can drive the car fine, just vibrates even more and makes that noise. Pretty much sounds like a failing DMF but, I can’t find videos of anyone driving on it, and they’re all DSG transmissions for the most part
I’ll attach a video later on. The one I took, the file is too large, I guess cause of iPhone’s 4K. Couldn’t find anything here pertaining to this kind of trans noise

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[lowlife.drew]

Can’t hear it in the beginning but, that’s me showing that the faint noise goes away with the clutch pedal in. Halfway through the video, you can hear the knocking/rattle noise. Only hear it when the car’s actually moving. It’s probably there in 1st gear but my car vibrates too much to hear.

 

[Ronny2019]

Can’t hear it in the beginning but, that’s me showing that the faint noise goes away with the clutch pedal in. Halfway through the video, you can hear the knocking/rattle noise. Only hear it when the car’s actually moving. It’s probably there in 1st gear but my car vibrates too much to hear.

Does it happen in all gears? Or just 2nd and 3rd i hope it is not the tranny gears. good luck

 

[lowlife.drew]

Does it happen in all gears? Or just 2nd and 3rd i hope it is not the tranny gears. good luck

I hope not too, lol. It’s louder in 2nd & 3rd, but it’s there in all gears, minus 1st since I can’t hear it over the NVH. Don’t wanna swap the clutch just to find out I need a trans

 

[lowlife.drew]

Well, it’s been a minute since I made this thread. The knocking/rattle noise I was hearing was my transmission along with a toasted throwout bearing. I took it to Honda hoping the advisor (FBO Type-R) would bless me with a warranty claim but, I was hoping for too much. Honda dealership wanted $9k to start a tear down on my trans, which I was not going to pay. Ended up getting a Stage 1 transmission from ManualGearboxLLC for ~$3,400; comes with carbon syncros in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. Took about 3 weeks to get delivered to my dealership. Along with that, I got the RV6 retrofit with the stage 0 clutch (OEM) which took about 6 weeks to deliver due to it being a pre-order on TwoStepPerformance, ~$9xx. Threw the trans in yesterday and I think I’m in love again
I only have 50 miles on the clutch & trans right now, so I’ve been babying it for the break-in process. Clutch pedal feels a tad more “lively”, for a lack of better words, than what I remember. Only adjusted the pedal about 1/2 turn clockwise. A much more direct and on/off type of feel compared to the stock’s having a “bite is kind of right here” engagement. Extremely happy to have my car back, I did the install myself, fairly easy when you have access to a lift and shop equipment. I will update later on once I can actually get some pulls in. FBO minus front pipe & charge pipes, W1 turbo, and PRL flex-fuel, running about E30 on KTuner’s basemap until I get tuned.

Side note: 12-point sockets are a must as far as the clutch itself goes. 10mm, 17mm, 19mm, and 21mm to be exact. Having a second hand to hold the engine at the crank bolt helps a lot too when removing and torquing down the clutch & flywheel down.

 

[lowlife.drew]

Old clutch & flywheel just to show you all. Please ignore my messy bay, it’s been a hell of a week

 

[Guitar_stitch]

She's seen a few hot launches, but overall not terrible on the stock grabby bois.

 

[Rustlinjimmies]

Well, it’s been a minute since I made this thread. The knocking/rattle noise I was hearing was my transmission along with a toasted throwout bearing. I took it to Honda hoping the advisor (FBO Type-R) would bless me with a warranty claim but, I was hoping for too much. Honda dealership wanted $9k to start a tear down on my trans, which I was not going to pay. Ended up getting a Stage 1 transmission from ManualGearboxLLC for ~$3,400; comes with carbon syncros in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. Took about 3 weeks to get delivered to my dealership. Along with that, I got the RV6 retrofit with the stage 0 clutch (OEM) which took about 6 weeks to deliver due to it being a pre-order on TwoStepPerformance, ~$9xx. Threw the trans in yesterday and I think I’m in love again
I only have 50 miles on the clutch & trans right now, so I’ve been babying it for the break-in process. Clutch pedal feels a tad more “lively”, for a lack of better words, than what I remember. Only adjusted the pedal about 1/2 turn clockwise. A much more direct and on/off type of feel compared to the stock’s having a “bite is kind of right here” engagement. Extremely happy to have my car back, I did the install myself, fairly easy when you have access to a lift and shop equipment. I will update later on once I can actually get some pulls in. FBO minus front pipe & charge pipes, W1 turbo, and PRL flex-fuel, running about E30 on KTuner’s basemap until I get tuned.

Side note: 12-point sockets are a must as far as the clutch itself goes. 10mm, 17mm, 19mm, and 21mm to be exact. Having a second hand to hold the engine at the crank bolt helps a lot too when removing and torquing down the clutch & flywheel down.

What ended up being your issue in the trans? Not entirely sure if my car is having the same exact noise as yours but it is eerily close..

This is my noise.
In first gear and slightly letting go off the clutch and its this noise I've been dealing with... I spent a good 2 hours trying and I feel a slight rattle in my clutch pedal when the noise is occuring. Only in low gears, once I get moving to high way speeds? No noise

 

[lowlife.drew]

What ended up being your issue in the trans? Not entirely sure if my car is having the same exact noise as yours but it is eerily close..

This is my noise.
In first gear and slightly letting go off the clutch and its this noise I've been dealing with... I spent a good 2 hours trying and I feel a slight rattle in my clutch pedal when the noise is occuring. Only in low gears, once I get moving to high way speeds? No noise

I’m not gonna lie to you. My old transmission has just been sitting in my shop, I have yet to take it apart for inspection. Still leaning on it being my differential since I still had all gears. After I had the noise issue, it popped a few weeks after.
Your noise is odd, but to me it sounds like one of your bearings. Be it the throwout bearing on the clutch fork or pilot bearing in the flywheel. I’m no expert unfortunately. My ‘03 WRX makes a similar noise, the throwout bearing on it is pretty much toasted

 

[lowlife.drew]

What ended up being your issue in the trans? Not entirely sure if my car is having the same exact noise as yours but it is eerily close..

This is my noise.
In first gear and slightly letting go off the clutch and its this noise I've been dealing with... I spent a good 2 hours trying and I feel a slight rattle in my clutch pedal when the noise is occuring. Only in low gears, once I get moving to high way speeds? No noise

You don’t have any worn out mounts do you? Specifically trans or rear mount. Nothing loose in the engine bay that NVH would cause to rattle? Sometimes my hood prop comes loose and makes me think I blew my motor I also had to remove my washer neck & put a tie around my ECM cover due to a crap ton of rattling/knocking noise

 

[Rustlinjimmies]

You don’t have any worn out mounts do you? Specifically trans or rear mount. Nothing loose in the engine bay that NVH would cause to rattle? Sometimes my hood prop comes loose and makes me think I blew my motor I also had to remove my washer neck & put a tie around my ECM cover due to a crap ton of rattling/knocking noise

I checked with the car suspended in the air, the mounts didn’t look blown, nothing looked loose or felt loose.

I’m hoping you’re right and it is a throw out bearing because I ordered the rv6 ctr clutch kit(the last one they had w/ flywheel) and I’m hoping that’s my problem.

90k mile on the car and stock so that’s why I’m like dang… and I baby the car

 

[lowlife.drew]

I checked with the car suspended in the air, the mounts didn’t look blown, nothing looked loose or felt loose.

I’m hoping you’re right and it is a throw out bearing because I ordered the rv6 ctr clutch kit(the last one they had w/ flywheel) and I’m hoping that’s my problem.

90k mile on the car and stock so that’s why I’m like dang… and I baby the car

Hoping for the best! You’ll love the clutch kit too! I have the Stage 0 or whatever one comes with the stock Type-R clutch. With you being stock, I have a good feeling it’s just worn components. I’m sure mine exploded cause I was was on the W1 turbo & flex fuel lol

 

[Rustlinjimmies]

Hoping for the best! You’ll love the clutch kit too! I have the Stage 0 or whatever one comes with the stock Type-R clutch. With you being stock, I have a good feeling it’s just worn components. I’m sure mine exploded cause I was was on the W1 turbo & flex fuel lol

Appreciate it just need to find the time to replace it on my driveway… unless I’m willing to shell out 9-1100 for a shop. I miss working at a dealer and I could do all my work with the lifts.

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