Clutch burned after 300 miles

[FC3L15B7]

So 3 months ago I traded in my 17 ex-t coupe for a 20 Si Sedan.
After 316 miles of light driving my clutch burned out. I know what you're thinking, but this is not my first manual. I've been driving manuals since my 1992 peugeot 106 (Google it).
I had the car towed into my local dealer and they determined that it was my responsibility for burning out the clutch..
Now mind you, this is in the middle of covid-19 and Honda declined to send out a specialist to look at the car. Rather, instead of paying the whole $2600, they're only charging me with $400 (this is also my 4th Honda in as many years, I leased a pilot and an odyssey as the fam wagon, so they where being courteous).
I know what you all are thinking, I'm an idiot that doesn't know how to drive a mani, but I promise I do, so please be easy on me. Even if I didn't drive 100% perfectly, it shouldn't die out after 300 miles! Driving instructors don't replace their clutches after 300 miles!
What else could this be?
What else should I look out for?
I have a feeling they're going to take me on a test drive when I pick up the car tomorrow, what should I pay attention to?
Anybody have similar issues?
Is there something else that would cause this issue?

No clutch - even one beat on pretty good - should fail in 300 miles. But, I honestly get the feeling so many people are killing their cars, Honda is fed up and just telling everyone TFB - you pay or it.

There are many complaints about premature clutch failure Honda has refused to cover under warranty because it's technically a wear item.

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[MaxPower]

I did some research and it turns out that honda uses a different flywheel in the 2020's compared to the 17-19. The Flywheel for the 17-19 models runs about $1200, the 2020's flywheel now costs $600. Different part numbers too. the CMC, slave, clutch disk, pressure plate, fork, and everything else is all the same.

Interesting. Would you mind sharing the two flywheel part numbers? I'm curious what the differences are, aside from price.

 

[bikejog]

Interesting. Would you mind sharing the two flywheel part numbers? I'm curious what the differences are, aside from price.

https://www.hondapartsnetwork.com/oem-parts/honda-flywheel-221005cd018
https://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~flywheel~22100-5cd-003.html

Don't know if they're actually different but they do have different part numbers.

 

[MaxPower]

https://www.hondapartsnetwork.com/oem-parts/honda-flywheel-221005cd018
https://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~flywheel~22100-5cd-003.html

Don't know if they're actually different but they do have different part numbers.

Yeah, I don't see any way to determine any differences from the information that the parts sites display. I did notice that the earlier flywheel (-003) also lists compatibility with the Accord Sport and Civic EX (in addition to the Si). The new one (-018) is compatible with the Sport hatchback & Si. So presumably, the 2020 Accord Sport & 2020 EX use yet another flywheel.

Also: looks like -018 replaced another 2020 Si-specific flywheel, part# 22100-5CD-008. I don't know how to make sense out of any of this.

 

[bikejog]

Yeah, I don't see any way to determine any differences from the information that the parts sites display. I did notice that the earlier flywheel (-003) also lists compatibility with the Accord Sport and Civic EX (in addition to the Si). The new one (-018) is compatible with the Sport hatchback & Si. So presumably, the 2020 Accord Sport & 2020 EX use yet another flywheel.

Also: looks like -018 replaced another 2020 Si-specific flywheel, part# 22100-5CD-008. I don't know how to make sense out of any of this.

Yeah google didn't return any results for 22100-5CD-008. Probably a typo and should be 22100-5CD-003

 

[MaxPower]

It saves them costs in having to carry multiple clutch plates when 1 would cover all.

Agreed - this is exactly why I was surprised to see multiple part numbers. Typically, Honda seems to make an effort to build parts that can be used across multiple vehicles/trims. There are a million examples of that. No idea why they decided to buck the trend for flywheels. Very odd.

 

[ebatr24]

Driving in "wide open throttle" in 4th, 5th, or 6th gear will NOT burnout the clutch, unless it is adjusted wrong & slipping. In fact, in the higher gears, there is a LOT less pressure on the clutch plate because it is just using enough power to keep the car at the same speed.

It's a different scenario if you are trying to start off in 4th, 5th, or 6th gear, but that is user ignorance & abuse.

I'm on my 7th vehicle (last 3 being new) & only the 1st one was automatic. All of my other cars were Manual. On just 2 of these alone (both I bought new), I had 494,000 miles on them combined. I've never had any problem like you described.

"learning to drive on it, dumping it, riding the clutch, etc... Most of these things won't kill it"
You obviously have NO IDEA how a clutch works.
These are some of the most common things that will shorten a clutch's life.

"riding the clutch" WILL prematurely wear-out the throw-out bearing which will eventually lead to premature clutch failure.

I've replaced clutches myself & have had both cable & hydraulic clutch cars.

I see you have a 2019, so I am going to assume you have little experience with this car and are probably pretty stock. I have more experiencing with this cars clutch than you and plenty with other cars. I will give you one thing, I didn't elaborate much on the dumping and riding the clutch. This car has CDV and as well as a pretty slow flowing CMC. It delays the clutch engagement making the car harder than most, to stall out and to launch really aggressively in a way that will hurt the trans. This makes it great for people to learn on, but it is not great for performance along with a really heavy dual mass flywheel. The clutch itself is pretty weak as well, so the torque in 4th, 5th and 6th from going WOT at lower RPMS will glaze the flywheel pretty bad otherwise known as "lugging the engine", especially if you're pushing more power than stock. Lots of people have replaced their clutches and show pics of the flywheel with a bunch of heatspots on it even at low miles, there is a reason this is such a discussed topic for the Si and other trim 10th gens. It is not a problem with the Type R as Honda used a much lighter single mass flywheel, and a way better clutch.

 

[bikejog]

Easily......I had a 2003 Golf that I bought new & it had 228,000 miles on it when I sold it. It still had its factory clutch & still showed no signs of slipping. It still grabbed hard with 228,000 miles on it, like the clutch was new.

Mostly highway? Also unfair to compare a low power golf to a higher power sporty car. My co-worker had a Saturn with 150K miles on factory clutch that he drove mostly highway. My cousin had a Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 and clutch cracked and needed replacement less than 50K.

 

[Skfhfjsjdn]

To the original poster, hope you still check this thread

So, i have a good idea what happened,

this is assuming you really didnt do the damage yourself, which i dont think you did

bottom line is unless you truly have a defective part installed, what happened is some yahoo,

either the lot boy who ferries the car from shipping freighter to the initial yard,

or the dealer lot boy who ferries the car to your dealer’s lot, or a salesman,

played have-a-go hero and burned your clutch

i test drove a ford focus, whatever the highest hot hatch model was with the stupid seats were

the salesman was a young guy who wasnt very smart, so he drove it off the lot with me in the passenger seat, the backroad was a long road and he wanted to show off the power

so he did a hard launch and i could immediately tell he fucked it up. He burnt the clutch a good 100 meters solid. He was flooring it pretty hard too.

blue smoke was pouring out of the engine, he had to stop and lift the hood

for your clutch to be fried so quickly, someone was having a bit of fun with your car at so e point and didnt know how to drive either

thats how you destroy a clutch right away.

 

[Yitzz]

To the original poster, hope you still check this thread

So, i have a good idea what happened,

this is assuming you really didnt do the damage yourself, which i dont think you did

bottom line is unless you truly have a defective part installed, what happened is some yahoo,

either the lot boy who ferries the car from shipping freighter to the initial yard,

or the dealer lot boy who ferries the car to your dealer’s lot, or a salesman,

played have-a-go hero and burned your clutch

i test drove a ford focus, whatever the highest hot hatch model was with the stupid seats were

the salesman was a young guy who wasnt very smart, so he drove it off the lot with me in the passenger seat, the backroad was a long road and he wanted to show off the power

so he did a hard launch and i could immediately tell he fucked it up. He burnt the clutch a good 100 meters solid. He was flooring it pretty hard too.

blue smoke was pouring out of the engine, he had to stop and lift the hood

for your clutch to be fried so quickly, someone was having a bit of fun with your car at so e point and didnt know how to drive either

thats how you destroy a clutch right away.

I can't tell if I'd rather it was a defect or someone else messed with it... Now that it's fixed I'm so nervous to drive it... Don't think I'll put it on the highway till I hit 1k city miles and the trans is still running smoothly...

 

[Yitzz]

If you had it replaced at a reputable Honda dealership, I wouldn't worry about it.
I doubt they would purposely damage your clutch. If it fails prematurely again, they would have to pay for fixing it again.
Most will give at least 1 year/12,000 Miles waranty on parts like these.

I haven't had any problem with mine, & I just put about 1,000 miles on it this weekend (Also averaged 40-43 MPG each fillup. Went up & down mountains.).

You can always take it on short highway trips, like get on the highway & go 25 miles, then return back home. See if you notice anything that does not feel right.

Wow how do you get that kinda mileage? So far I've done about 17.5 mostly city, better than I got on my 17 ex-t but no where near 40...

 

[20ABM06MT]

I am averaging 30-31 mpg (every tank so far has been between 30 and 31).. mostly suburban driving with some highway... on a highway only trip I can get 38-40...

 

[Sixers Ryan]

So 3 months ago I traded in my 17 ex-t coupe for a 20 Si Sedan.
After 316 miles of light driving my clutch burned out. I know what you're thinking, but this is not my first manual. I've been driving manuals since my 1992 peugeot 106 (Google it).
I had the car towed into my local dealer and they determined that it was my responsibility for burning out the clutch..
Now mind you, this is in the middle of covid-19 and Honda declined to send out a specialist to look at the car. Rather, instead of paying the whole $2600, they're only charging me with $400 (this is also my 4th Honda in as many years, I leased a pilot and an odyssey as the fam wagon, so they where being courteous).
I know what you all are thinking, I'm an idiot that doesn't know how to drive a mani, but I promise I do, so please be easy on me. Even if I didn't drive 100% perfectly, it shouldn't die out after 300 miles! Driving instructors don't replace their clutches after 300 miles!
What else could this be?
What else should I look out for?
I have a feeling they're going to take me on a test drive when I pick up the car tomorrow, what should I pay attention to?
Anybody have similar issues?
Is there something else that would cause this issue?

 

[Sixers Ryan]

My 2020 Honda Civic SI clutch just burned out on my last night and left me stranded. I only have 6,800 miles on it and the smell is just terrible. My Honda dealer has already ordered some new parts but mentioned nothing about payment. I have been a stick driver for 30 years so I can almost guarantee it not how I drove the car. I had it since October of 2019 and am quite furious. We'll see if my Honda dealership in Pa makes "it right". Honestly, I'm afraid to start driving it again as luckily I was 10 minutes from my house and dealership. It stopped driving when I stepped on the gas. There is no way a clutch should burn out this quickly so I'm wondering if its a particular part on the SI that is different from the Accord or other models. I'll now wait to see what else they find....

 

[alxgravel]

It looks like the clutch on 2020 is more fragile ( based on post here)... with my si 2017 I'm running tune since 2018 and this year tsp stage 1 map 3 and no issue at all with the clutch. I'm having 90k kilo on my car now . You should try to upgrade it if you have extra money and fix the problems for future. Next year I will be full bolt on with the downpipe so, I will upgrade it before make it slip. Well good luck with it. Its not normal if you didn't abuse it. You should go to an another dealer and look what they said.

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