Clutch burned after 300 miles

[fenix-silver]

What do you mean by that? Surely you're not saying you need to be above 2k to get going, right? I hope not lol

Yeah, wanted to say the same thing. 2K is not necessary to get moving and will just cause additional wear. I typically use no more than 1.5K.

Sponsored

 

[civicmanic]

What do you mean by that? Surely you're not saying you need to be above 2k to get going, right? I hope not lol

I believe he is saying he keeps the revs below 2k when shifting.

Surely he can wring it out more than that! That's bogging territory.

 

[Gruber]

the clutch is a wear item, just like your tires and brake pads,

a slipping clutch wont be covered under warranty

if a bearing let go and it exploded, thats a whole different case

Yeah, I say the whole car is a wear item. Because it is.

I never had to replace or service the clutch in my manual cars. And I don't change cars every 5 years and never dumped a car under 100 kmiles. It took me years to really learn driving the stick well, and I taught my daughter to drive on my car.
So if Honda paid for this, I guess they thought there must have been something wrong with the clutch. Still, if the clutch was indeed "worn out" over the 300 miles and not broken some other way, it couldn't have felt as it should while driving. But (I guess again), it was a new car after driving AT for some time, so the OP didn't realize that.

 

[repeet]

To the OP. When you launch, the RPM should be between 1000 and 1200 RPM. After that you should keep it between 2000 and 4000 RPM. You shouldn't go over 4000 RPM during "Break In" or go full throttle.

On the other hand, moderately accelerating up to 4000 RPM is how this car is designed. It's happiest between 2000 RPM and 3000 RPM when cruising, and will give you the best mileage in this range.

"Hyper milers" do try and keep the RPM within a couple hundred RPM of 1000 RPM on level ground. That low of an RPM on an upgrade will eventually damage your drive train.

 

[vieux georges]

I'm glad it all ends well for you.
I hope they found out why the clutch burned down
and solved the problem.
Good luck with the new clutch.

 

[Yitzz]

I'm glad it all ends well for you.
I hope they found out why the clutch burned down
and solved the problem.
Good luck with the new clutch.

Thank you!

 

[Yitzz]

To the OP. When you launch, the RPM should be between 1000 and 1200 RPM. After that you should keep it between 2000 and 4000 RPM. You shouldn't go over 4000 RPM during "Break In" or go full throttle.

On the other hand, moderately accelerating up to 4000 RPM is how this car is designed. It's happiest between 2000 RPM and 3000 RPM when cruising, and will give you the best mileage in this range.

"Hyper milers" do try and keep the RPM within a couple hundred RPM of 1000 RPM on level ground. That low of an RPM on an upgrade will eventually damage your drive train.

Good info, thanks

 

[jtrader]

Bad battery, bad clutch? Sounds like you're in the early development stages of a lemon. Hope not! Glad it all worked outQ!

 

[ian408]

Ya that was a weird one. I might call them about it tomorrow... But I don't want to ask questions just in case they decide to charge me...

Once it's charged to warranty, it's done. Just FYI, you will not get those parts back only because Honda might ask for them back to examine them for the failure mechanism.

As far as the battery goes, from the note, it looks like the tech removed the battery and set it somewhere with the mounting hardware. Maybe someone in the shop mistook it for a bad battery and put it in the recycle pile.

You lucked out.

 

[5th 3l3ment]

So 3 months ago I traded in my 17 ex-t coupe for a 20 Si Sedan.
After 316 miles of light driving my clutch burned out. I know what you're thinking, but this is not my first manual. I've been driving manuals since my 1992 peugeot 106 (Google it).
I had the car towed into my local dealer and they determined that it was my responsibility for burning out the clutch..
Now mind you, this is in the middle of covid-19 and Honda declined to send out a specialist to look at the car. Rather, instead of paying the whole $2600, they're only charging me with $400 (this is also my 4th Honda in as many years, I leased a pilot and an odyssey as the fam wagon, so they where being courteous).
I know what you all are thinking, I'm an idiot that doesn't know how to drive a mani, but I promise I do, so please be easy on me. Even if I didn't drive 100% perfectly, it shouldn't die out after 300 miles! Driving instructors don't replace their clutches after 300 miles!
What else could this be?
What else should I look out for?
I have a feeling they're going to take me on a test drive when I pick up the car tomorrow, what should I pay attention to?
Anybody have similar issues?
Is there something else that would cause this issue?

Call Honda America and report them and your issue they’ll reverse that decision real quick

 

[venomSi2nr]

This clutch has a tendency to exploit every single bad habit lol. Any pressure, however light, can lead to glazing very quickly. It's virtually impossible to burn through a clutch in 300 miles. Glazing however can feel like a worn clutch.

Regardless, be sure to request the parts back to rule out other concerns. GL.

I agree. Glazing could be a factor. Every new clutch has a break in, even in brand new cars. If the clutch and flywheel don't establish a good bond from the beginning (overheating the clutch causes this), this will greatly reduce the holding power and will cause slippage.

 

[GFrez]

Sorry to hear about your clutch . I don’t care if you suck driving a manual transmission. I had a 2001 Honda Insight , taught 5 different people how to drive it and sold it to a friend with 300,000 plus miles and still the original clutch .
I just Bought a 2020 Si Coupe 2 weeks ago and I am expected this clutch to last the same as my Insight . In my opinion your clutch is 100 % defective and any reputable dealer should acknowledge that .

 

[2020CivicSI]

"Battery and one lock lug missing inside the shop."

Did they straight up LOSE your battery and lock lug when working on the car?? ????

 

[Hajidub]

"Battery and one lock lug missing inside the shop."

Did they straight up LOSE your battery and lock lug when working on the car?? ????

This might very well be the car Honda used for it crash test ratings! LOL

 

[therealdede]

adding onto this, have been following the 2020 si clutch situation since the 2020MY came out. not less than a month after the 2020's started to hit dealer lots, honda put out an internal request for visit for 2020 si's with a clutch judder.

not too long after, i saw a post from someone that had put about 1200mi on their 2020 before the clutch went out, now i see this post.

I did some research and it turns out that honda uses a different flywheel in the 2020's compared to the 17-19. The Flywheel for the 17-19 models runs about $1200, the 2020's flywheel now costs $600. Different part numbers too. the CMC, slave, clutch disk, pressure plate, fork, and everything else is all the same.


I'm at 5k on my Si, hoping to maybe do some mods in the near future, but would like to hold off for now, waiting to see how the clutch holds up, or if step 1 should be to install eman's CTR retro.

Sponsored