Civic Type R After-market Wheel Guide

RepyT

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Hold on, elaborate for me.

What do you mean full compression? You mean blowing out your dampers?

For the record, I drive my car pretty hard. I have a really heavy foot when braking, accelerating, and I take corners and long sweepers to the point where I scare myself at times. I have never rubbed. In fact, there is almost a 2" gap from my tire to the fender. I have even gone over speed bumps really hard without seeing them and still haven't rubbed.

So, where in the hell can you possibly rub, especially with our stiff suspension?

And yes, you're changing the steering feel, not geometry. You are changing the way the car performs with anything aftermarket. But rubbing with an 8.5" wheel and +35 offset? Not even close.

Sorry I came across a bit too harsh. I apologize, but some of the stuff I hear is so wrong and counter-intuitive to performance that I wonder if people even know what they are talking about.

I sometimes think that people on these forums are spreading the wrong information on purpose, or to sell a product.....especially when it comes to performance. (not talking about you, but others...they know who they are)

This is the same exact setup. 8.5", 18", +35 offset. Nobody rubs with this setup, racing, normal driving, etc..

I have also seen people driving with this setup, slammed on coil-overs, still no rubbing.

IMG_2436.jpg


IMG_2438.jpg
Trying to diffuse this with facts and calculators vs opinion even a popular one.

The tire & wheel selection shows static fitment, not at full strut compression for an FK8. Just because one person hasn’t experienced rub doesn’t mean it’s impossible.

This calculator compares your selection to OEM. Note 25mm of positive scrub. This is quite high so even if you’ve grown accustomed it’s certainly not a desirable setup one should tolerate to save a few pounds of unstrung weight that can change handling too but not as much as scrub typically. Your selection if you’re happy is perfectly fine but you’ll be at the back of the pack in lap times, with bulging forearms.

https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/?wh...-19X9.5ET61&fcl=50mm&scl=50mm&wcl=30mm&sr=0mm

EF22CFFE-190B-41CD-9981-6B493EE8DE19.jpeg


5DF6C9E4-2A2B-466B-9A61-B1556EEA6474.png

 

Deleted member 47337

Trying to diffuse this with facts and calculators vs opinion even a popular one.

The tire & wheel selection shows static fitment, not at full strut compression for an FK8. Just because one person hasn’t experienced rub doesn’t mean it’s impossible.

This calculator compares your selection to OEM. Note 25mm of positive scrub. This is quite high so even if you’ve grown accustomed it’s certainly not a desirable setup one should tolerate to save a few pounds of unstrung weight that can change handling too but not as much as scrub typically. Your selection if you’re happy is perfectly fine but you’ll be at the back of the pack in lap times, with bulging forearms.

https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/?wh...-19X9.5ET61&fcl=50mm&scl=50mm&wcl=30mm&sr=0mm

EF22CFFE-190B-41CD-9981-6B493EE8DE19.jpeg


5DF6C9E4-2A2B-466B-9A61-B1556EEA6474.png
Bro, what is this? We are talking about rubbing, not scrub radius. Why are you changing the subject?

You're not listening what I am saying. YOU WILL NOT RUB UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE.

There are people that have coil-overs and my exact same setup, they don't rub....AT ALL.

I don't know what you're trying to prove, but you will not rub under any circumstance unless you blow out your shocks.

You're now talking about scrub radius? I'm not talking about scrub radius. I don't even know why you are bringing it up. You were arguing about rubbing...

Dude, this is my setup. I don't rub. I drive my car super-hard. No marks on my tires and no marks in the wheel-well. Lost 12lbs of unsprung weight per wheel. No issues with handling, and performance has gone up in every department.

No, I don't track my car, but I know one other person that does...WITH THIS SETUP! NO RUBBING!

I don't know how much harder a person has to drive to rub.


IMG_2438.jpg


IMG_2436.jpg
 
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RepyT

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Bro, what is this? We are talking about rubbing, not scrub radius. Why are you changing the subject?

You're not listening what I am saying. YOU WILL NOT RUB UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE.

There are people that have coil-overs and my exact same setup, they don't rub....AT ALL.

I don't know what you're trying to prove, but you will not rub under any circumstance unless you blow out your shocks.

You're now talking about scrub radius? I'm not talking about scrub radius. I don't even know why you are bringing it up. You were arguing about rubbing...

Dude, this is my setup. I don't rub. I drive my car super-hard. No marks on my tires and no marks in the wheel-well. Lost 12lbs of unsprung weight per wheel. No issues with handling, and performance has gone up in every department.

No, I don't track my car, but I know one other person that does...WITH THIS SETUP. He doesn't rub.



IMG_2438.jpg


IMG_2436.jpg
Calm down some? I never said you’d rub, just that strut travel matters.
Scrub radius matters too, impacts torque steer, handling.
Most folks would look for more offset but whatever works for you is fine with me.

B/L point was calculate more, opine less.
 

Deleted member 47337

Calm down some? I never said you’d rub, just that strut travel matters.
Scrub radius matters too, impacts torque steer, handling.
Most folks would look for more offset but whatever works for you is fine with me.

B/L point was calculate more, opine less.
Calm down some? I never said you’d rub, just that strut travel matters.
Scrub radius matters too, impacts torque steer, handling.
Most folks would look for more offset but whatever works for you is fine with me.

B/L point was calculate more, opine less.
I understand, and I agree with you in what you are saying. But you said that +35mm offset on a 8.5" wheel was (in your words) "torque-steer city". I own this setup, drive on it hard, and have never felt any torque-steer. It feels like how it was stock. Nothing more, nothing less.

I understand that basic physics plays a part in everything that we do to our cars, but getting a wheel with a +35mm offset doesn't mean that no matter what, you're gauranteed to have torque-steer. You definitely have more potential to have torque steer, but still, that does not mean that no matter what, you'll have it.

Now, on a 9.5" wheel, I don't know...there is way more width there, along with more tire...maybe then you will notice something.

***** The reason why I am going back and forth with people on the forums is not to offend you or anyone else, but to just give my personal experience with different products and setups for the FK8....AND I actually back EVERYTHING up with facts, photos of my car, videos....and people STILL argue. I get other people to come and show photos of their cars and prove that I am not lying, and we all get push-back.

I have literally taken the Type R apart...literally...the engine (completely), clutch and all of the clutch components like the master and slave cylinder, seats, steering wheel, shifter, wheels, brakes, infotainment, and more than 50% of the stuff that people have posted here has been false or missing very important details.

That's why I am here constantly correcting people, or giving the missing details that NOBODY seems to post.....I don't like that, because some of the stuff will push an innocent Type R owner towards the wrong direction or make them screw their car up. Do you know how many Type R owners are selling their cars, because they went overboard and completely ruined the driving experience? I know them, personally.

I was so close to spending $4000 on wheels and tires, just because they were some high-end brand and they happened to be forged. I drove a Type R with that exact $4000 setup and it sucked. The car felt slower off the line, and you could literally feel the friction from the wider tires. I spent $1500 and doubled the weight loss of the wheels and tires...literally doubled the weight loss, just because I used my brain and kept the stock wheel and tire width.

Then someone on this forum argued with me for hours...told me that the infotainment controls everything and without it, you'll get all kind of lights on the dash...which I proved to be untrue. My car has the infotainment completely removed. I found out that the canbus system is what controls the car, not the infotainment system. I have no lights on my dash. I just cant listen to music or change the rev-match system to on or off.

Then people told me that swift springs would feel really good on the Type R and give the car better handling. Tried that and it was not better in anyway. The suspension after a few months got softer since the stock damper was not in its optimum height and range. The car did not feel as stiff as how it was stock and handling sucked ass. Made everything stock and the car is way better now. Night and day difference.

There are people on this forum that, till this day, can't tell that they don't have full power from 1st - 3rd gear. No joke. They don't know that the Type R is boost by gear. The torque, and power is limited in 1st, 2nd and 3rd. The Type R has full torque and makes full power in ONLY 4rth, 5th, and 6th gear. You need to tune the car to change that. People still argue with me and tell me that it's the gearing that makes the car slow off the line, not the tune.

So, sorry to be a bit harsh, but when someone comes on the forum and spreads misinformation, I will correct them immediately and make sure that the truth comes out. If they want to get technical, I will gladly go there. I took photos and videos of everything I have done.

Not you specifically, but there are so many phony people out there with a nasty ego. Not sure if you've dealth with them, but they are out there....on this forum. No matter what you say, or show, or prove, and even get the manufacture to come here and talk to them, they don't listen....they keep mentioning physics as if they have a degree in physics.
 
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RepyT

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I understand, and I agree with you in what you are saying. But you said that +35mm offset on a 8.5" wheel was (in your words) "torque-steer city". I own this setup, drive on it hard, and have never felt any torque-steer. It feels like how it was stock. Nothing more, nothing less.

I understand that basic physics plays a part in everything that we do to our cars, but getting a wheel with a +35mm offset doesn't mean that no matter what, you're gauranteed to have torque-steer. You definitely have more potential to have torque steer, but still, that does not mean that no matter what, you'll have it.

Now, on a 9.5" wheel, I don't know...there is way more width there, along with more tire...maybe then you will notice something.
Wrong guy, not I that said torque steer city. I would have said like ‘hella heifer holdon hometown hoedown’ (just then girlfriend hits floor, wife still standing).

Besides, I like the 19” look now, no gap much less 3 fingers and flushed is a must, I don’t even like my teen pos scrub on 255/35 x9.5, to each their own.

20BC9DC3-82AC-4927-BEAD-7CB7E1719E29.jpeg
 


Slapshot

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Enkei RPF1 - Not sure if you like them as far as looks, but they are super-light, same width as my setup, and an even better offset of +40. Fantastic wheel, great price.

Motegi MR146 SS6 - Great looking wheel, 1 lb heavier than my wheel, but you still get a ridiculously low wheel weight and tire weight with this. VERY GOOD price.

I would get the Motegi MR146 SS6 and put on some DWS 06s and call it a day! You'll love it. Tirerack will ship it to you mounted, balanced, with new lug nuts, the tool to install them. You can literally put the wheels on yourself in your garage. They package them up VERY well, and all you would need is a jack and you're good to go.
Actually, we were apparently thinking alike. I was already considering the Montegi MR146 SS6 as the best option with the other wheel out of stock. I also like the look of these. I would just have Tire Rack throw the DWS 06+ on it. My only remaining concern are all of these people stating that there will be rubbing and torque steer with this setup. Your "real world" experience with the same size setup and tire size is a major factor in my decision. I would just like to see someone else that is not concerned about the offset.
 

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I came across this on Montegi's site. This would seem like the perfect wheel (though Tire Rack does not have it) it is apparently another option of the same MR146 wheel that we both like, and there would be no concerns at all about offset. The only question would be whether 9.5 width would result in any issues due to tire width increase? And, if I can locate them somewhere for sale.


MR14689552745 Finish - Satin Black Size - 18x9.5 Bolt Pattern - 5x120 Offset - 45mm Weight - 19.77 pounds list $- 249.99

MR146 SS6 - Motegi Racing
 

Deleted member 47337

I came across this on Montegi's site. This would seem like the perfect wheel (though Tire Rack does not have it) it is apparently another option of the same MR146 wheel that we both like, and there would be no concerns at all about offset. The only question would be whether 9.5 width would result in any issues due to tire width increase? And, if I can locate them somewhere for sale.


MR14689552745 Finish - Satin Black Size - 18x9.5 Bolt Pattern - 5x120 Offset - 45mm Weight - 19.77 pounds list $- 249.99

MR146 SS6 - Motegi Racing
I can garauntee you, especially with stock suspension, you will never ever rub...EVER. 18", 8.5 width, +35 offset is in the safe zone by a long shot. Don't even think about it. I know it's easy for me to say, but I wouldn't even mention it if there was somewhat of a possibility. I wouldn't do you like that.

Also, tirerack WILL NOT sell you a wheel that will rub. That's why you barely see 9.5" wheel width even being offered on their website for the Type R. They try to stay away from anything that might cause rubbing or issues.

Also, if people on this forum are doing 9.5" wheels with +45mm offset and not rubbing, then you should know that for sure, you will absolutely not rub with my setup size of 8.5, +35mm. It's a narrower wheel and tire.

The +45mm offset on a 9.5" wheel is the almost the same thing as an 8.5" wheel with a +35mm offset. Meaning, the outter portion of the wheel (the face of it) will be pushed out at the same place the +35mm offset would be in a 8.5" wheel...maybe even slightly more, by a few mm. I think it is slightly more (check that bottom chart)

So if you are concerned about rubbing with 8.5" +35mm, you should be more careful with the 9.5" +45 since it sticks out more. The +45mm, 9.5" is actually more aggressive.

As far as the wheel, that MR146 in a 9.5 looks beautiful..very light wheel, VERY good price...with DWS 06, you'll definitely like it.


If someone else can chime in and verify that there will be no rubbing for the +45, 9.5, I'd jump on it...The MR146 SS6 from Motegi is honestly a gorgeous wheel. Haven't seen it on a Type R, but it looks badass and I'm sure it will look super-aggressive.


This is a side-by-side comparison chart with measurements...with precision.



Rim 1 (18x8.5 ET 35)

Rim 2 (18x9.5 ET 45)
Tires Tire 1 (245/40 R18) Tire 2 (265/35 R18)
Clearance Wheel 1 Wheel 2
Rim Diameter 457 mm 457 mm =
Rim Width 216 mm 241 mm ⬈ 12%
Backspace 143 mm 166 mm ⬈ 16%
Offset 35 mm 45 mm ⬈ 29%
Typical Weight 12.8 kg 14.3 kg ⬈ 12%
Section Width 245 mm 265 mm ⬈ 8%
Sidewall 98 mm 93 mm ⬊ 5%
Overall Diameter 653 mm 643 mm ⬊ 1.6%
Rim Sizes 18x8 18x8.5 18x9 18x9.5 18x8.5 18x9 18x9.5 18x10
Circumference 2052 mm 2019 mm ⬊ 1.6%
Revs per mile 784 797 ⬈ 1.7%
Speedometer Assuming that this is OE tire and speedometer readings are correct When speedometer reads 60 km/h actual speed will be 59 km/h
Typical Weight 10.7 kg 10.8 kg ⬈ 1.3%
Rim + Tire Weight 23.4 kg 25.1 kg ⬈ 7%
Suspension There are not any problems with clearance on both sides Tire is 20 mm closer to suspension components. Rim is 23 mm closer to suspension components. Make sure that you have enough room for that. If not, consider lower offset or narrower tires
Fenders There are not any problems with clearance on both sides Rim will stick out 3 mm farther. Acceptable for most cars
Wheel Wells There are not any problems with clearance on both sides 100% clear (leaves even more room than OE)
Brakes There are not any problems with clearance on both sides Rim offset is more than OE, so brake support will be closer to the rim. Make sure they are not touching.
Scrub Radius Unknown Unknown
 
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Deleted member 47337

Hey Bax. Calm down man.
Hey Alpha...sorry man, I lose it sometimes trying to explain myself to people that change the subject when you end up proving them wrong.

Just trying to help Type R owners with my experiences and steer people in the correct direction...which ever they choose after hearing the facts.

I bet you got a kick out of this one...lol

No hard feelings, eh?
 

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Hey Alpha...sorry man, I lose it sometimes trying to explain myself to people that change the subject when you end up proving them wrong.

Just trying to help Type R owners with my experiences and steer people in the correct direction...which ever they choose after hearing the facts.

I bet you got a kick out of this one...lol

No hard feelings, eh?
There are no hard feelings.

But I dont want you to pass out from not breathing is all.
 

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I think in the case of whether a 18x8.5 +35 or 18x9.5 +45 might rub the issue comes down to the overall width of the tire that you put on the rim and whether you are lowered or not (changing factory camber also will effect this). Some tires like those that are more track focused just have a wider tread or cross section than others even with the same tire width stamp (ie 245, 255, 265, etc). To get an idea as to where your tire type might stand in relation to other tires you can look at the specs tab under each tire if listed at Tire Rack.

 
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