Civic Sport Hatch Autox in HS?

SlowAP2

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Yeah, I was thinking mid-3rd would be pushing 80 mph, but that's also because I'm imagining staying in the top of the rev range (and completely forgot about the "mid-" part of what he wrote).
We've had courses down here in FL that are deep into 3rd gear. I've seen 87/88 on GPS and 65-70ish in slaloms. :)

It depends on the site and "obstacles" around the course.
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Vanimaniac

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How easy/hard is it to change rear toe on these on the fly (ie. at events)?
 

burglar

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How easy/hard is it to change rear toe on these on the fly (ie. at events)?
How accurate do you have to be? There's cammed washers at the inner A-arm bolt. Loosen, tweak, tighten. Easy access, so ten minutes tops, assuming nothing is seized?

My car was shipped with a white paint mark on the washer / arm. That measured out to zero toe using my toe bar. I run the car daily with the paint marks at almost no overlap (the left edge of the stripe touching the right edge of the other, if that makes more sense) and that measures out to (I think) ~1/8" of total toe out. I've tried more, and the car starts to get a little spooky / wandery on the freeway if I go more out.

The nature of the cam type adjuster is that it isn't as reliable and repeatable as, say, a tie rod type. If you're the type of person who HAS to know the EXACT toe setting you are at, then doing the DIY at events is not for you. If you're ok with getting it to arbitrary settings and then "pretty close" back, then you might be ok with it.

Me, I'm real lazy, so I just keep it at my good compromise settings at all times.
 

das borgen

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How accurate do you have to be? There's cammed washers at the inner A-arm bolt. Loosen, tweak, tighten. Easy access, so ten minutes tops, assuming nothing is seized?

My car was shipped with a white paint mark on the washer / arm. That measured out to zero toe using my toe bar. I run the car daily with the paint marks at almost no overlap (the left edge of the stripe touching the right edge of the other, if that makes more sense) and that measures out to (I think) ~1/8" of total toe out. I've tried more, and the car starts to get a little spooky / wandery on the freeway if I go more out.

The nature of the cam type adjuster is that it isn't as reliable and repeatable as, say, a tie rod type. If you're the type of person who HAS to know the EXACT toe setting you are at, then doing the DIY at events is not for you. If you're ok with getting it to arbitrary settings and then "pretty close" back, then you might be ok with it.

Me, I'm real lazy, so I just keep it at my good compromise settings at all times.
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Crane_FK8

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I've done a few events in HS earlier this year and I have to say I was very impressed with how the car handles, especially in the slalom! In my opinion, there is a lot of potential with this platform. I am currently running Whiteline Performance lowering springs, and their front+rear sway bars and the car feels even better now. There is noticeably less body roll and I am able to get through slaloms even faster as well as take turns at much higher speeds consistently. I am excited to see what I can do with some wider/lighter wheels and some 200TW tires!
 


Vanimaniac

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Been a bit quiet here. What's everyone doing for tires this season? I'm going to try and kill my re71r's for the first few locals and then get something that will hopefully still be good by the time nationals rolls around.
 
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jwbrockman

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I took last season off so I’m planning to use up my pile of old re71s and rivals for a while, and maybe try the Falkens later in the season if nats is going to happen and other people confirm they work well on concrete.

Been a bit quiet here. What's everyone doing for tires this season? I'm going to try and kill my re71r's for the first few locals and then get something that will hopefully still be good by the time nationals rolls around.
 

Gefiltefish

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I will be on RE71R's as I bought a brand new set last year before the announcement that Nationals was cancelled.. I never ran them, so they got bagged up and kept them in my basement (temperature controlled). I don't expect them to last all the way until Nats and overall may not trust a tire with a build date of over 2 years ago at that point. So I will have to decide between Falkens or Rivals for Nats.

I plan on attending the Chicago Tour, both events at Spring Nats, Toledo Pro and the Pro Finale & Nats of course.
 

Vanimaniac

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I will be on RE71R's as I bought a brand new set last year before the announcement that Nationals was cancelled.. I never ran them, so they got bagged up and kept them in my basement (temperature controlled). I don't expect them to last all the way until Nats and overall may not trust a tire with a build date of over 2 years ago at that point. So I will have to decide between Falkens or Rivals for Nats.

I plan on attending the Chicago Tour, both events at Spring Nats, Toledo Pro and the Pro Finale & Nats of course.
Sam, I plan on seeing you at Spring Nats. Hopefully we can figure out what's fastest on these cars by then!
 

burglar

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I think I can make it until mid May, depending on if I get stabbed or not, before ordering tires so please figure it out for me by then. ;)
 


Mrbadwrench

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What brake pads, rotors, fluid are you guys running and are you running stainless brake lines?
 

PedalFaster

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What brake pads, rotors, fluid are you guys running and are you running stainless brake lines?
Also, stainless brake lines are only legal for model years up to 1991 per 13.6.B:

Substitution of clutch and brake hydraulic lines with solid metal or braided metal is allowed on all cars manufactured before model year 1992.
 


 


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