Civic Sport Hatch Autox in HS?

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jwbrockman

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My car was good enough for 3 trophies at Nationals and several Prosolo/Champ Tour wins/trophies with the stock stuff, probably best to not worry about it and drive.

Well the whole car is "fine" but I want great :)

 

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Because, as Josh pointed out, this is the thread for Street, which is the class which allows the least number of mods.

Looking at your original post again -- you're also not allowed to run rotors that are substantively different (weight, material, size) than the stock ones.

You're focusing on the wrong things anyway. Even in a money-is-no-object build for a higher prep class, stainless steel brake lines wouldn't be on the list of mods you'd want, and brake rotors would be fairly far down the list.

You're best off running the car in its current state until you're able to turn consistently competitive times and can more precisely identify what weaknesses you want to address. Within the constraints of the Street ruleset, brakes are unlikely to top the list.
 

Vanimaniac

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Well the whole car is "fine" but I want great :)
Wheels/tires/alignment/bar and you will have a great car for HStreet. If you want to think outside the box and try and take it to the next level then figure out an upgrade on shocks and test out a front bar. :)
 


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Because, as Josh pointed out, this is the thread for Street, which is the class which allows the least number of mods.

Looking at your original post again -- you're also not allowed to run rotors that are substantively different (weight, material, size) than the stock ones.

You're focusing on the wrong things anyway. Even in a money-is-no-object build for a higher prep class, stainless steel brake lines wouldn't be on the list of mods you'd want, and brake rotors would be fairly far down the list.

You're best off running the car in its current state until you're able to turn consistently competitive times and can more precisely identify what weaknesses you want to address. Within the constraints of the Street ruleset, brakes are unlikely to top the list.
The car already has bigger wheels, sway bars, strut bars, springs, tuned, intake, intercooler, and dp so I'm guessing I'm already in a different class. I haven't raced it yet as I bought it in January so not sure what class yet.
 

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The car already has bigger wheels, sway bars, strut bars, springs, tuned, intake, intercooler, and dp so I'm guessing I'm already in a different class. I haven't raced it yet as I bought it in January so not sure what class yet.
Off the top of my head, that sounds like Street Mod.

You might be able to run a few events in Novice if you're new and your region has the class available, which is fine if you're not planning on chasing points.
 

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Off the top of my head, that sounds like Street Mod.

You might be able to run a few events in Novice if you're new and your region has the class available, which is fine if you're not planning on chasing points.
Yeah I'm just doing it for fun. I know this car isn't competitive. I'm planning on racing sth if I ever get kicked from novice
 
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jwbrockman

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As long as the wheels are 9” wide or less and the tires are 265 width or less, nothing on that list should put you out of STH.

Yeah I'm just doing it for fun. I know this car isn't competitive. I'm planning on racing sth if I ever get kicked from novice
 

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So I just emailed Lee Grimes at Koni about shocks for our car. And then he responds within minutes with this....

"Hi Van,



Your timing is impeccable because not more than 10 minutes ago I got confirmation from Holland that finally the Prototypes for the 10G Civic are shipping out from Holland this week for testing here. I just need to locate a car that we can borrow for a few days to do the confirmations on. As I recall however, you are located in Colorado so that may not be possible. If you know anyone in the general Cincinnati, Indy, Lexington, Louisville, Columbus, OH area who autocrosses one of these, let me know as I have 3-4 weeks to locate a car for testing.

These are KONI Sport adjustable units that are externally (knob type) adjustable on the fronts and internally (off the car, compress to adjust) adjustable on the rear because the factory rear mounting system is puts the top of the piston rod hidden blind into a void in the fender well that cannot be accessed on the car or from the inside, very similar to what VW has done since the late 1990s. The good news is that Honda moved the spring off the damper so dropping the shock will only require 3 bolts and does not require a spring compressor to remove the spring to compress it. Additionally, Honda chose a very small diameter top mounting nut diameter so that is too small to be made hollow and allow an adjuster tab to come up through.

Since these are prototypes and will be used to test and finalize the valving and specs for production units, this will be the only set until the production units become available which will be most likely late this year after Solo Nationals.

Best regards,


Lee Grimes"


As much as I would love to be the test mule and have the prototype for nationals I am just not close enough. Is there anyone here in Ohio that can test these out for him?! I'm super psyched to have an option to upgrade our shocks!

Van
 


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I don’t know if anyone in Ohio running one, Will Teller is probably closer than me (he’s in VA), same for Russell Blume (KS). Peter Ling doesn’t have his anymore and Matt Morhardt is in Austin, further away than me. Depending on time frame and how long they need the car I might be up for a road trip though. I only put 2500 miles or so on the car in the first year.
 

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I got screwed by class changes this year and decided to do a quick prep on my daily driver 2020 civic sport sedan to run in HS and save some money while I figure out what to get next. Has anyone had problems with rear sway bar end links? Just put on my whiteline adjustable bar and it seems like the 90deg end link bolt orientation puts a lot of extra stress on the arm side bushing on the end links. I've also noticed the stock ones are plastic. I'm wondering if the aluminum si or accord ones will actually hold up or if that lower bushing gets trashed and I should bite the bullet on eibach adjustable ones with spherical joints. My other cars have all had the bolts parallel to each other so I could just loosen the bolts, allow the inner sleeve to rotate, then lock it back down when making adjustments so not really sure what to expect for bushing life on something like this. It seems like the stiffer position is pretty well aligned but I'd like to have it on the softer setting for driving in bad weather, just not sure it'll survive long.
 

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I got screwed by class changes this year
Sorry about that. FS?

I'm wondering if the aluminum si or accord ones will actually hold up or if that lower bushing gets trashed and I should bite the bullet on eibach adjustable ones with spherical joints.
I have the Whiteline bar and I run it year round on the stiffer setting w/ the Accord endlinks. The only time I notice the bar at all in normal driving is going up pitched driveways. I don't think it's really worth moving from soft to stiff and back again, not like the car gets super loose or anything. In fact, in bad weather the low grip doesn't generate enough roll for the bar to really come into play.
 

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Sorry about that. FS?



I have the Whiteline bar and I run it year round on the stiffer setting w/ the Accord endlinks. The only time I notice the bar at all in normal driving is going up pitched driveways. I don't think it's really worth moving from soft to stiff and back again, not like the car gets super loose or anything. In fact, in bad weather the low grip doesn't generate enough roll for the bar to really come into play.
Yep, FS. I was running a mustang that was only moderately competitive but now it's not worth the cost of tires given that there's people with the same chassis, stiffer springs, and wider wheels in class.

Fair enough if it isn't that loose on stiff with normal tire pressures not worth switching. I haven't had a lot of driving on it with the new bar yet but I did take it through a roundabout until the point of slip under light throttle and it seems like the front and rear are pretty close to breaking loose at the same time which had me a little worried. This is also the first fwd car I've owned in about 3 years and the first time racing one seriously. Still tend to use my old f150 when the snow gets really bad, so I've got a lot of adjusting to do still. I'm very use to catching a loose rwd vehicle but the idea of lift off oversteer on the street has me a little anxious. Our first test and tune is about a month out so I'll be using that to figure tire pressures and get use to how it behaves when pushed too hard.
 

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Picked up a new to me 2019 Civic Sport Coupe and then quickly ordered some RE71RSs (255/40 R17) on Konig Hypergram 17x8s et45. I did not like the Falken 660s on my now totalled Mini Cooper S. NOt a fan, couldn't ever seem to get them locked in. I liked the old RE71s. So, I decided to take a shot at the new RE71RSs.

Need an idea of what pressure to start with on the Civic. We have an event on the 20th. Tires should be in Monday, wheels shortly afterwards.

 

 
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