Civic Si in GS

Banannie

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Thanks Annie! You made me dig deep!
I'd love to see your video :)
LOL you just were afraid of the Hello Kitty skirt :p

Des and I were video challenged this past weekend - the latest SoloStorm update is making it difficult to get the GoPro to stay synched to the tablet. So, not sure we have anything....



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88BBB8B

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Mike
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LOL you just were afraid of the Hello Kitty skirt :p

Des and I were video challenged this past weekend - the latest SoloStorm update is making it difficult to get the GoPro to stay synched to the tablet. So, not sure we have anything....
man solostorm and i haven't been vibing since the STR days LOLLL
 

macrossranma

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My si have just whiteline rear sway bar and 255 40 17 re71r. I have been running 33 front and 40 rear cold psi with this car (and my previous car stock mazda 3) with good results, but sometimes the rear would kick out unpredictable. However recent conversations with some experience autocrossers advise that running same psi front and back will have greater turn in with less unpredictable kick in the rear. Just want to see some advise from pro autocrossers here what kind of psi i should use with my setup?
 

macrossranma

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Yup. I've known Mike for 16 years. His car is a beast, when it doesn't break. ;)

He's been doing the few local events we've been allowed to have up here since the border is closed. He isn't a regular at the PITL series.



They run a good, fun series but the classes are overly simplified. Wide variety of cars and drivers. The courses rarely offer any line choice and can be tight and confusing sometimes.

I'm going to be at the next one as it will be my first and possibly only event of the year on dead 245/40/17 RE71R's. I may have access to a used set of 255/40/17's so am I correct that they will fit on the Si without rubbing? They would be on a GS legal 17x8 wheel.

I'd hoped to campaign the Si for the entire season this year including a couple of U.S. tours but that obviously isn't happening. I am continuing my ND2 build and will be back in STR next season, which is where I was in my NC2 up until last season.
Sjd are you the one at PITL this past weekend without the wheel lock. Hope to see you next event!!
 

burglar

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My si have just whiteline rear sway bar and 255 40 17 re71r. I have been running 33 front and 40 rear cold psi with this car (and my previous car stock mazda 3) with good results, but sometimes the rear would kick out unpredictable. However recent conversations with some experience autocrossers advise that running same psi front and back will have greater turn in with less unpredictable kick in the rear. Just want to see some advise from pro autocrossers here what kind of psi i should use with my setup?
I think I tend to run a little higher pressure than most, but I run 37 psi square on that exact setup. Well, last year I ran the Karcepts, but I haven't changed pressures for the Whiteline. I'll run a little lower pressure on a low grip surface.
 

Vanimaniac

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My si have just whiteline rear sway bar and 255 40 17 re71r. I have been running 33 front and 40 rear cold psi with this car (and my previous car stock mazda 3) with good results, but sometimes the rear would kick out unpredictable. However recent conversations with some experience autocrossers advise that running same psi front and back will have greater turn in with less unpredictable kick in the rear. Just want to see some advise from pro autocrossers here what kind of psi i should use with my setup?
I run 28 front 40 rear on my sport hatch. eibach rear bar, 255/17 stones. 1/16 toe out front/rear Rotation is perfect IMO.
 

sjd

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Sjd are you the one at PITL this past weekend without the wheel lock. Hope to see you next event!!
That was me! The car is going to the dealer this week so they can remove the wheel locks and provide me with 4 new lug nuts at no charge since they lost the key.

At least I was able to jump into a friend's C6 Z06 and have some fun autocrossing that day. It's a beast that I wasn't truly comfortable throwing around until my last run. lol.

I won't be at the next event though as I am busy that weekend.
 

cito

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Tired of killing tires in 4 events. Running 255/40/17 RE71R's. 2-driver car. Temps have been high. They look pretty dead after about 50 runs. We run about 31 psi in the front. I think that is partly why they wear so quick, but frankly they feel better and faster to me with lower pressures. I know that is not the experience of others on here, but now I also see some people running 28psi.

Anyone tried the Goodyear SC3? If I am going to kill tires this fast, should I just go with the Yok's (faster) or RT660's (cheaper) instead? Why are the Rivals in this size so goddam expensive?
 

SlowAP2

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Tired of killing tires in 4 events. Running 255/40/17 RE71R's. 2-driver car. Temps have been high. They look pretty dead after about 50 runs. We run about 31 psi in the front. I think that is partly why they wear so quick, but frankly they feel better and faster to me with lower pressures. I know that is not the experience of others on here, but now I also see some people running 28psi.

Anyone tried the Goodyear SC3? If I am going to kill tires this fast, should I just go with the Yok's (faster) or RT660's (cheaper) instead? Why are the Rivals in this size so goddam expensive?
Sounds like you're over heating the tires. You need to spray them down more and/or drive smoother. If you like to sledge hammer, you might want to go to rivals. yoko or falkens will be as bad or worse than the 71r if over driven.

My last set of 71rs, I ran 36/38 and rotated them every event and flipped at about 60 runs. At ~100 runs they were still fairly even on wear and 3-4/32 across the board. They were Heat cycled out but still had tread.
 

PedalFaster

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If I am going to kill tires this fast, should I just go with the Yok's (faster)
I get about half the number of runs out of the Yokohamas as I do out of the Bridgestones, so only switch if you want your tires to last two events while not going any faster.
 

JDBWV

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Had my first chance to run my 2019 Si last weekend at a local/divisional event. It's a very fun car to drive! Also, I'm very slow (haven't done this for a few years) and I miss the launch traction that my WRXs had.

Alas, I didn't get all my runs in because when the brakes got hot (into the second run of each heat), the car developed a metal-on-metal scraping noise on the left front when turning left. It persisted in my cool down drive around the parking lot, but was gone after it sat while I was working. Same thing happened in the afternoon. It's never made that noise outside of autox, even though I've driven it hard in a few spots.

Any idea what this is? I searched and found some discussion about brake clips grinding against the disc, but they weren't autox specific. Figured if it was a known issue (with a known fix), you guys would know.

Thanks!
 

meclaymore

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C
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Had my first chance to run my 2019 Si last weekend at a local/divisional event. It's a very fun car to drive! Also, I'm very slow (haven't done this for a few years) and I miss the launch traction that my WRXs had.

Alas, I didn't get all my runs in because when the brakes got hot (into the second run of each heat), the car developed a metal-on-metal scraping noise on the left front when turning left. It persisted in my cool down drive around the parking lot, but was gone after it sat while I was working. Same thing happened in the afternoon. It's never made that noise outside of autox, even though I've driven it hard in a few spots.

Any idea what this is? I searched and found some discussion about brake clips grinding against the disc, but they weren't autox specific. Figured if it was a known issue (with a known fix), you guys would know.

Thanks!
Hey, I have developed a very similar issue after my last AutoX. It was my second AutoX that involved more closely tied together runs (every 15 mins).

It's a squeaking noise rather than scraping for me. I thought it was the brake shield so I pushed mine as far away from the rotor from possible but I still hear the noise occasionally under the exact same conditions as you (front left car side turning left.)

Anyone else have any other suggestions as to solutions or what it could be?
 

SlowAP2

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Could be a tiny rock between the pad and the rotor. Ive had thathappen 3-4 times in the last year with my car
 

macrossranma

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Also check the endlinks mine was making some kind of metal noise turning and found broken
 

Gefiltefish

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Alas, I didn't get all my runs in because when the brakes got hot (into the second run of each heat), the car developed a metal-on-metal scraping noise on the left front when turning left. It persisted in my cool down drive around the parking lot, but was gone after it sat while I was working. Same thing happened in the afternoon. It's never made that noise outside of autox, even though I've driven it hard in a few spots.

Any idea what this is? I searched and found some discussion about brake clips grinding against the disc, but they weren't autox specific. Figured if it was a known issue (with a known fix), you guys would know.

Thanks!
I've had this too. Even when the brakes were not hot! Both on my '18 Si and my '20 Sport Hatch... I have no clue what it is. It sounds horrible but nothing is broken or anything. Eventually it goes away on a run, but is certainly alarming when it happens at the wrong time.
 

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