Civic 10th Gen Premium Audio Amp/Speaker/Sub Upgrade

[ScubaCollie]

Hi All, i've been searching and reading these forums for weeks researching how to upgrade my Premium sound system in a 2019 Civic EX trim with Premium audio system.

I removed the front left passengers side kick panel and have found the amplifier, and was planning on retaining the oem head unit, and installing an aftermarket DSP, Amp, and Powered Sub.

I'm trying to find the wiring pin diagrams for an EU civic hatch with Premium audio? (im in the UK). (picture of my pin plug below)

I was planning to remove ONLY the 18pin A Plug from the Amp, cut the wires, run speedwire from all channels up to a DSP in the rear, then through an amp, and then back down to the front of the car with speaker wire to pick up on the other end of the oem speaker wire that i cut at the oem amp, to use that existing oem speaker wire to feed the speakers?

Would the above work?

I've removed the A plug and see there are 14 coloured wires, which i think are all speaker wires, due to me having centre, front door left component, front door right component, rear door left component, rear door right component, and rear C pillar left, and rear C pillar right (7 speakers) (calculated based on assuming the front door components have midrange and tweeters connected to each other on a passive crossover (and the rear doors) therefore thats 7 speakers x 2 wires per speaker would be the 14 wires i'm seeing?

I've attached a photo of the plug below.

Is it only A plug that needs to be tapped into?

Problem is I've found another thread of somebody who's lost voice/nav commands etc after making the upgrade?

And i've slso found this thread (link below) detailing Plug B referring to satellite speakers and tweeters? Therefore do i need to tap into them as well? As it sounds like its an Active system if thats the case which will make this install a lot more difficult? Unless i was to just disconnect those wires from Plug B and run new wiring up the door from the new midrange to the new components i'm going to install? Or would this create issues due to me only tapping off from Plug A and therefore not receiving a full range signal to the DSP if i don't also tap off of Plug B?

Can somebody please provide some advise and feedback on what i was planning to do above?

Thank you in advance.

 

[Hasdrubal]

It's been a while, but I think I was part of one of those threads that talked about the voice prompts being on the center channel. I remember someone posting a page from a manual saying they're run through the door speakers, you should be fine for that.

Mine is a sedan, but the front and rear speakers each have a separate channel for mids and tweeters. It's a ten channel system, with two for each corner, one center dash, and one sub. I think the other connector has the rear tweeters on it, someone posted a wiring diagram a while back for that too. I'll try to look around for which thread it was, but if you search you'll probably find it.

The rears in my car did so little that I didn't bother using them as inputs for the DSP. The rear speakers are now getting the same signal as my fronts, though on separate channels.

 

[ScubaCollie]

It's been a while, but I think I was part of one of those threads that talked about the voice prompts being on the center channel. I remember someone posting a page from a manual saying they're run through the door speakers, you should be fine for that.

Mine is a sedan, but the front and rear speakers each have a separate channel for mids and tweeters. It's a ten channel system, with two for each corner, one center dash, and one sub. I think the other connector has the rear tweeters on it, someone posted a wiring diagram a while back for that too. I'll try to look around for which thread it was, but if you search you'll probably find it.

The rears in my car did so little that I didn't bother using them as inputs for the DSP. The rear speakers are now getting the same signal as my fronts, though on separate channels.

Many Thanks mate I managed to find the exact same wiring diagram colours as mine last night luckily after looking for weeks! (as I have the EU version).

I've ordered the Fix 86 and have a 4 channel Alpine 150watts per channel amp coming with 4 x Alpine R Series Components, I'm going to run it Passive with crossovers, therfore will be removing the tweeter output wires from the actual tweeters themselves and rewiring up from the midrange to the new tweeters, I'm assuming the oem amp will still operate with the tweeter wiring removed? It will still be sensing a load on the midrange....

 

[Hasdrubal]

If you're using the factory amp outputs as inputs for a DSP, it's fairly likely that your factory amp will not see enough load and put itself in protection- no output. Mine did, and there are a few other people on the forum who have had the same problem. The DSP seems like it does not put enough load on the amp to work properly.

The solution is to add a resistor to one or more of the speakers and bring the load up into the acceptable range. On my car I had twisted the factory rear mid channel wires together, since they weren't being used, and adding a 30 ohm resistor to each did the trick. Depending on how your install goes, you may not need to do this at all.

 

[Zavage]

Don't forget that you will may have a problem with the hands-free system as the Honda DSP is able to delay the audio signal when on a phone call to avoid echo.

 

[ScubaCollie]

Don't forget that you will may have a problem with the hands-free system as the Honda DSP is able to delay the audio signal when on a phone call to avoid echo.

Hi mate will this definitely be the case? If I'm using the existing output wires from the oem amp therefore the amp would have already muted the sound when a call comes in?

 

[ScubaCollie]

If you're using the factory amp outputs as inputs for a DSP, it's fairly likely that your factory amp will not see enough load and put itself in protection- no output. Mine did, and there are a few other people on the forum who have had the same problem. The DSP seems like it does not put enough load on the amp to work properly.

The solution is to add a resistor to one or more of the speakers and bring the load up into the acceptable range. On my car I had twisted the factory rear mid channel wires together, since they weren't being used, and adding a 30 ohm resistor to each did the trick. Depending on how your install goes, you may not need to do this at all.

Many Thanks for this mate, I'm removing the tweeters but leaving the rears in the C pillar running, therefore I will néed to do with my tweeters in the doors like you did with your rears?

Did you solder the resistors to the positive and negative?

 

[Zavage]

Hi mate will this definitely be the case? If I'm using the existing output wires from the oem amp therefore the amp would have already muted the sound when a call comes in?

Should work like this but i don't know if your DSP is changing something.

 

[Hasdrubal]

I didn't solder my resistors in, I got some that had terminals large enough to have little holes in them- they had built in heat sinks too. I put the speaker wire through the holes and twisted it hoping it would work, and when it did, I was so relieved that I just wrapped the whole works up with electrical tape and called it done.

I don't know how much power the resistors need to handle, but the ones I got look similar to these.

https://www.amazon.com/LM-YN-Wirewo...qid=1675285072&sprefix=30+ohm,aps,322&sr=8-10

 

[ScubaCollie]

I didn't solder my resistors in, I got some that had terminals large enough to have little holes in them- they had built in heat sinks too. I put the speaker wire through the holes and twisted it hoping it would work, and when it did, I was so relieved that I just wrapped the whole works up with electrical tape and called it done.

I don't know how much power the resistors need to handle, but the ones I got look similar to these.

https://www.amazon.com/LM-YN-Wirewound-Electronic-Industrial/dp/B072BWJDQR/ref=sr_1_10?crid=15GGHG49NZRNO&keywords=30+ohm+resistor&qid=1675285072&sprefix=30+ohm,aps,322&sr=8-10

Many Thanks mate im all wired up and luckily I didnt need any resistors, will do a thread over the weekend about it many thanks for your help mate

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