Check engine lights after oil change

Sunnohh

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Howdy,

My old man does my oil changes and with the whole covid crap going on I dropped the car off and he worked on it the next day. He jacked it into the air and turned the engine on to get some heat into the oil before doing the change. Car is 2016 four door base model, manual transmission.

He came back about 10 minutes later and since then I have had the following lights:
tcs off when starting
tcs orange
electric steering orange
tpms orange / flashing when started
brake light red
brake system orange

The parking brake makes a horrible noise when trying to engage when running since this started, it won't even try when the car is off.

Any help much appreciated. Is this normal if you run the car on jack stands? If so, is there an easy fix, I've put a cycle of driving on it and the lights are unchanged. We have not disconnected the battery yet. He did pull the main fuse, but assumed if I have to take it to the dealer they will want the codes. Other posters have mentioned something about an ecu fault that is common but, I also saw a few posters imply that you can't run the car while it's off the ground. Neither seemed to have much actual info....

Thanks, first and hopefully not last honda... this will be my 4th issue since buying it new. I came from a dodge neon and never had issues like this car. Actually just replaced a control arm at 120k and nothing else on that car, lol. So far I have been in for, horrible quacking noise from the gas lid, 2 unexplained check engine lights that required major repair they wouldn't actually tell me how they fixed it at the dealer, and now this.
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shoegazer

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IMO... you have nothing to lose by doing the battery disconnect/reset followed by a Sunday drive to gather data (and hopefully turn off the errors).
 

DRUSA

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Most likely what happened:

Your old man put the car in the air and let the car idle in neutral, even in neutral there sometimes is enough resistance to allow the wheels to spin. If the vehicle see wheel speed from the front wheels only and not the back wheels as well, it thinks there is a ABS sensor failure. So you trick the vehicle into thinking that both rear wheel speed sensors are dead and hence the christmas tree gauge cluster.

The ECU fault people are talking about does not apply to your car, some of the 16-18 automatics had TCM failures. All the lights would come on and the car's ebrake would never disengage, car won't move at all.

Disconnect the battery for about 10min, reconnect the battery. You will have a few lights on the dash still, drive over 8mph in a straight line and they should go away automatically.

Your buzzing sound from the fuel door lid is the fuel door lock actuator, it makes a terrible buzzing sound when you unlock or lock the car doors when they go bad.
 
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Sunnohh

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No need to do that with 0W-20 oil.
How do you get the aero plastic off without jacking it up? There is no clearance and there is no engine oil filter cutout like some other brands have.
 


latole

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How do you get the aero plastic off without jacking it up? There is no clearance and there is no engine oil filter cutout like some other brands have.

I answer to no need to warm-up engine with 0W20 oil
 
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Sunnohh

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I answer to no need to warm-up engine with 0W20 oil
That seems pretty questionable to me, you drain more oil when it's warm and it contains more particle matter. If it were a lease sure but, I was planning on keeping this thing for a long time.

Most likely what happened:

Your old man put the car in the air and let the car idle in neutral, even in neutral there sometimes is enough resistance to allow the wheels to spin. If the vehicle see wheel speed from the front wheels only and not the back wheels as well, it thinks there is a ABS sensor failure. So you trick the vehicle into thinking that both rear wheel speed sensors are dead and hence the christmas tree gauge cluster.

The ECU fault people are talking about does not apply to your car, some of the 16-18 automatics had TCM failures. All the lights would come on and the car's ebrake would never disengage, car won't move at all.

Disconnect the battery for about 10min, reconnect the battery. You will have a few lights on the dash still, drive over 8mph in a straight line and they should go away automatically.

Your buzzing sound from the fuel door lid is the fuel door lock actuator, it makes a terrible buzzing sound when you unlock or lock the car doors when they go bad.

Dad and I undid the battery and getting the same symptoms. Drove a cycle or two, drove quite some distance at 8 mph, and still all christmas tree all the time.

What else could I check? Hate going to the dealer, the three times it has been in for warranty work were some of the worst customer experiences I have had in my entire life.

Thanks in advanced!
 

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That seems pretty questionable to me, you drain more oil when it's warm and it contains more particle matter. If it were a lease sure but, I was planning on keeping this thing for a long time.




Dad and I undid the battery and getting the same symptoms. Drove a cycle or two, drove quite some distance at 8 mph, and still all christmas tree all the time.

What else could I check? Hate going to the dealer, the three times it has been in for warranty work were some of the worst customer experiences I have had in my entire life.

Thanks in advanced!
Is the battery itself in good condition? Low voltage can cause issues and possibly prevent recalibration of all of the systems. Especially since all of them are try to recalibrate at once.
 

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I've had a similar experience when failing to properly reconnect the electrical connections for the ebrake during a brake pad swap. That said, it's important to know the associated DTCs with the fault.

It's too bad we live in this Covid-restricted environment, or you could just run into an Autozone and borrow an OBDII reader, but I've heard they have reduced that access due to pandemic-related measures. Don't want a lot of handling of the reader and passing between hands, it seems. Seems that the ebrake/brake system has been really freaked out.

The post prior to mine mentioned battery, and I know from experience that the battery in my 2018 Honda lasted exactly two years and was toast. Would be worth checking the voltage, to be sure.
 

DRUSA

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Dad and I undid the battery and getting the same symptoms. Drove a cycle or two, drove quite some distance at 8 mph, and still all christmas tree all the time.
Time for a dealer visit then. Do not mention the whole "my dad did the oil change story", just tell them the lights are on and play dumb, otherwise this reallllllly shouldn't fall under warranty work.
 


vtecr

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Time for a dealer visit then. Do not mention the whole "my dad did the oil change story", just tell them the lights are on and play dumb, otherwise this reallllllly shouldn't fall under warranty work.
Don't do this...

As a tech, we'd often have people come in and be cryptic about what exactly happened and all it does it slow down your diagnosis of the problem. You'll likely be paying for the techs time so try to minimise that by being as clear and concise about what lead up to the issue.

My guess is that it'll be fine once the codes are cleared.
 

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Aw c'mon man?
Either something is broke or is not broke. :dunno:

If it's not broke (case A) then after connecting the scanner, checking and clearing the codes, it will be fine and this should be fast and cost very little, if they insist to charge. If it doesn't clear easily, it's Honda design's fault. The system should be abe to easily initialize if nothing is broke.

If something is broke, (case B) then it's still Honda design's fault that the car requires part replacements if the engine is started with wheels free. This means it could also happen when the wheels momentarily lose contact with the ground, which happens all the time with spirited driving....:cool:
 
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Sunnohh

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Aw c'mon man?
Either something is broke or is not broke. :dunno:

If it's not broke (case A) then after connecting the scanner, checking and clearing the codes, it will be fine and this should be fast and cost very little, if they insist to charge. If it doesn't clear easily, it's Honda design's fault. The system should be abe to easily initialize if nothing is broke.

If something is broke, (case B) then it's still Honda design's fault that the car requires part replacements if the engine is started with wheels free. This means it could also happen when the wheels momentarily lose contact with the ground, which happens all the time with spirited driving....:cool:
Yeah - my honda dealer has been awful when it comes to telling me what they fixed under warranty. Time to pay them back.

If it isn't under warranty I am taking it to an independent honda specialist, not giving the dealer a penny.
 

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Yeah - my honda dealer has been awful when it comes to telling me what they fixed under warranty. Time to pay them back.

If it isn't under warranty I am taking it to an independent honda specialist, not giving the dealer a penny.
They feel like they are gods (although they are car service people, not MD's :wave:). Even if it was a warranty repair at no cost to you, it's still your car and you are driving it, not the property of the dealer or American Honda, so you (should) have the right to know what was done to it.

This never happened to me though. I always got a receipt with warranty repairs which had a diagnosis and a description of what was done, and they would answer my questions about it.
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