changing my cvt fluid

Dory

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Hey guys. This is my first post ever to this site, so I hope I'm in the right place. I started to change my cvt fluid in my '17 civic ext. I quickly located where to drain the fluid and refill the fluid, but I can't locate the bolt that needs to be removed to check the fluid level. I've looked at several pics and videos, but my car doesn't seem to have a check bolt where the videos are showing. I believe it's a 17mm, but I don't see any such bolt coming out the side of the cvt transmission. Is it possible that my engine doesn't have one? Can anyone maybe give me a more specific location of the check bolt?
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Gruber

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Hey guys. This is my first post ever to this site, so I hope I'm in the right place. I started to change my cvt fluid in my '17 civic ext. I quickly located where to drain the fluid and refill the fluid, but I can't locate the bolt that needs to be removed to check the fluid level. I've looked at several pics and videos, but my car doesn't seem to have a check bolt where the videos are showing. I believe it's a 17mm, but I don't see any such bolt coming out the side of the cvt transmission. Is it possible that my engine doesn't have one? Can anyone maybe give me a more specific location of the check bolt?
How can't you see any bolt? You may not know which is the right one, but there are some bolts.

Honda Civic 10th gen changing my cvt fluid 0395A837-EA2A-4C03-9C5C-AE3DB4FFE5D3
 

pumpkin

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Hey guys. This is my first post ever to this site, so I hope I'm in the right place. I started to change my cvt fluid in my '17 civic ext. I quickly located where to drain the fluid and refill the fluid, but I can't locate the bolt that needs to be removed to check the fluid level. I've looked at several pics and videos, but my car doesn't seem to have a check bolt where the videos are showing. I believe it's a 17mm, but I don't see any such bolt coming out the side of the cvt transmission. Is it possible that my engine doesn't have one? Can anyone maybe give me a more specific location of the check bolt?

i would highly suggest you bring your car to a shop to have this done, you dont sound like you know enough to handle this, its not worth risking having to purchase a new CVT

your drain plug is on the SIDE of the CVT at the bottom,

your check plug is on the FRONT of the CVT higher up,

your fill plug is on the TOP of the CVT under your air filter box
 

BrandonSmith

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I just did this last week on my 2016 EX 2.0L

1) Don't remove that top panel. You do not need to remove any panels to get the airbox off. The piece that connects the airbox to that top panel can be removed from the airbox - it's a flap, just peel the edges of the flap off the airbox inlet. The three bolts that hold the airbox down are easy to get to. The biggest pain is the rubber grommet that holds the left side of the airbox to the bumper... Use a pry tool under the rubber grommet and pop the whole rubber grommet off the pin. I would still remove the airbox because it makes the whole job easier without getting pissed at reaching into tight spots and dropping this or that (don't shortcut the job).

2) Do not run the vehicle without the airbox. After you've filled the trans for the first step, just loosely reinstall the airbox without bolting it back down. Let is heat up per instructions, run it through the gears, and shut it down, and remove the box. Pretty simple.

Please for the love of God use the check bolt to set the fluid level. And speaking of level, make sure the vehicle is on level ground when you drain, when you fill, and when you refill! Pour the 3 Qts in and when you start the 4th Qt pour SLOWLY. It will sneak up on you and pour all over the place. I put 3 qt in and when I just started the 4th qt it began to pour out of the check hole. I heated up per instructions and poured in very slowly until it just began to seep out of the check hole.

So:
  1. Remove airbox (3 bolts, rubber grommet, remove rubber flap around inlet grille)
  2. remove fill plug (this helps prevent gulping during draining)
  3. jack up front of vehicle and place on jack stands (or use ramps)
  4. remove underpanel
  5. remove drain bolt with socket wrench (no socket)
  6. lift rear of vehicle up so the car is level (or lower the front down on level ground)
  7. let it drain for more than 5 minutes (it will drain for a long time if you let it, best to remove as much fluid as possible)
  8. get back under the car and put the drain plug back in with NEW washer (and torque to spec)
  9. remove the check bolt
  10. get the car level again (preferably with the car on level ground because you'll be starting the car)
  11. fill up with 3 qts then slowly add the 4th qt a splash at a time (you won't need much, maybe 2 oz at most so be careful!)
  12. once there is a little dribble out of the check hole put the bolt back in (hand tight is fine)
  13. put the fill plug back in
  14. Set the airbox back in place but don't bolt down yet (clamp the two pieces back together though)
  15. start the car and let it get up to temp (about 10 minutes of idling for me to get the fan to kick on twice - having the hood closed helps the temp rise faster)
  16. Once the fan has kicked on twice you'll run through every gear on the shifter from P to L and then back up every gear from L to P (make sure to stay in each gear AT LEAST 3 seconds, I did 5 seconds)
  17. Shut the car off and remove the airbox, check bolt, and fill plug
  18. Fill a few splashes at a time until there is a dribble coming out of the check hole
  19. put the check bolt back in and torque to spec
  20. put the fill plug back in
  21. Get back under the car and wipe up any fluid from the trans, put the cover back on
  22. reinstall the airbox
  23. thank God the job is done
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