Car almost wouldn’t start

ayeitsmikko

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I bought a certified preowned 2018 Civic Si in August 2020. Car is currently at around 33k miles and I bought the car at around 28k miles. It was fine up until a few days ago. It was Thursday (2/24/21) morning, tried to turn on the car - lights flickered and nothing. It looked as if the battery was drained, but I had no lights on or anything on overnight in the car.

I managed to get the car to start by pressing the push start button a few more times then let the car sit for a bit. I assumed it was a dying battery so I called AAA to see if they can inspect it. Technician came in and did the battery check and told me the battery was good and passed as well as the alternator and the starter. He told me it could have been the weather (40F) but the week before was just as cold if not colder and I never had this issue. Drove to my destination and had no problems.

Today (2/26/21), car started fine, drove to work (40 mile commute), worked my 8 hours and got ready to go to BestBuy which was about 40 miles (closer to my place). Car started, drove, parked at the BestBuy, stayed for about 30 mins just browsing and catching up with a few old friends there. Got back and tried starting the car and was met with the same issue. Thankfully I was able to get the car started again by just pressing the push start button and just drove back home.

I already have an appointment next week to service the car. Had do to an oil change, brake fluid change, and have TPMS sensor issues so I might as well get that issue checked.

I feel like it’s just the battery going bad, but I’m not too sure.

I am just curious if anyone had the same issue and want to share their experience before and after it was fixed.
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latole

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It is possible that you may have a problem with intermittent connections.
To check ; battery terminals; oxidized, tight?
Ground wire to the motor; the same.
Or it is the battery, it is not easy to check a battery. It may indicate good at one point but not afterwards.

If I couldn't find the problem, I would replace the battery.
Good luck.
 

longthaitran91

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Likely the battery. Same exact issue I had. It should be still under warranty. Honda will possibly try to make up some bullshit excuse saying that you modified the cars bulbs with hid/led so there’s a power leakage or it’s caused by your usb cables or what’s plugged into the 12v cigarette plug. If they pull that shit, fight it. Even if they are 100% right about the leakage, the car cuts off all power after a min or 2 after the driver door closes.
 

calonzo

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I'm not convinced that the battery load testers that AAA or auto parts stores use are accurate. I have had the same symptoms in the past and was told the battery was good. But a new battery always solved the problem.
 

latole

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I'm not convinced that the battery load testers that AAA or auto parts stores use are accurate. I have had the same symptoms in the past and was told the battery was good. But a new battery always solved the problem.

I agree, battery testers are not accurate enough
 
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ayeitsmikko

ayeitsmikko

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Thanks for all your inputs guys! I’m just glad it may not be anything major. I just thought my experience was really bizarre. I never had this issue with my 8th gen. I’ll see what the dealer says after the service appointment.
 

"sToCk_Si"

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Battery warranty is 5 years pro rated from date of originally sold so it won't cost you an arm and a leg to get it swapped out.
 

NHCivicGuy

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Super common issue actually. There’s a lawsuit with the CR-V and Accord, and quite frankly I’m not sure why the Civic isn’t included with how many issues there is with them. Can be solved by getting battery replaced under warranty (will happen again prematurely due to OEM issue). Third party battery, such as Duracell (Batteries Plus) or Costco, you will have better results with. I’d get something with better CCA than OEM if possible.

https://www.carcomplaints.com/news/2021/honda-battery-problems-accord-cr-v-lawsuit.shtml
 
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ayeitsmikko

ayeitsmikko

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Super common issue actually. There’s a lawsuit with the CR-V and Accord, and quite frankly I’m not sure why the Civic isn’t included with how many issues there is with them. Can be solved by getting battery replaced under warranty (will happen again prematurely due to OEM issue). Third party battery, such as Duracell (Batteries Plus) or Costco, you will have better results with. I’d get something with better CCA than OEM if possible.

https://www.carcomplaints.com/news/2021/honda-battery-problems-accord-cr-v-lawsuit.shtml
What do you think about the ones AAA carry? I only ask because I’m a member and they usually have long warranties with those, but I might get this one replaced via warranty and then if it fails again, go that route. I’ll definitely look at Costco or Duracell as well.
 

NHCivicGuy

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What do you think about the ones AAA carry? I only ask because I’m a member and they usually have long warranties with those, but I might get this one replaced via warranty and then if it fails again, go that route. I’ll definitely look at Costco or Duracell as well.
I don’t have any direct experience with AAA, but if it’s warrantied (hopefully at least 5 years) I’d say you probably can’t go wrong. I’ve gone the Walmart route on previous cars and have had them fail in 1-2 years. However they had no problem exchanging it for no charge (first 3 years full replacement). I’d probably not go with Walmart choice, just don’t feel like dealing with it lol. Good luck! Hopefully dealer doesn’t charge you an install fee or anything like that.
 
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ayeitsmikko

ayeitsmikko

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Included a video of what happens when the car won’t start. I’m almost convinced that it’s the battery now, but when I had this issue before I remember the car “clicking”more.

It was working fine during the morning for the first few days, then the issue happened again.

 
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jlamb30

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I would check the battery voltage when it happens with the car off. Should be ~12.4 volts... your voltage is probably less, which would indicate at least one bad cell. For checking the alternator, you should be seeing ~14.4 volts with the car running. I've never really trusted an auto parts store's test.
 
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ayeitsmikko

ayeitsmikko

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I would check the battery voltage when it happens with the car off. Should be ~12.4 volts... your voltage is probably less, which would indicate at least one bad cell. For checking the alternator, you should be seeing ~14.4 volts with the car running. I've never really trusted an auto parts store's test.
Called AAA again and they did another battery test after the car was off for about 48 hours. The battery voltage was about 10.4, but thankfully the alternator was good. Just swapped the battery and it was all good. I just never had an issue where the car would suddenly start - work fine for a few days - and then it won’t start again. Either it would start, or won’t start for me from my 8th gen lmao.
 

rwsmith123

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My motorcycle is the same, it either starts or it doesn’t, it’s never almost started.
 
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