C&R Radiator Installed

[fatherpain]

I didn’t check for voltage before draining and pulling the old radiator (Koyo). Will check the PWR once it’s filled... But have a few items to knock out first...Should be an easy check, so recommend doing so when time permits

Hum. Nothing like that from C&R. Just a radiator in a (well packaged) box. I played it fast and loose. I drained the old coolant, installed the radiator, vacuum tested the system then vacuum filled to ensure no air pockets. My car has 4,500 miles. Hopefully there are not shorts and the coolant should be relatively clean.

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[bcrichster]

Are you guys saying that the radiator needs be unbonded /not grounded on these cars..?? Real question, Lol.

 

[fatherpain]

These are PWR’s full instructions. They mention the need to safeguard against electrolysis several times and to check for it’s presence on a regular basis.

Are you guys saying that the radiator needs be unbonded /not grounded on these cars..?? Real question, Lol.

 

[fatherpain]

From the internet:

Radiator Electrolysis

This condition occurs within the cooling system mainly due to current seeking an easy path through the coolant to ground. Typically stray/electric current is the result of accident damage to the vehicle, poor installation of electrical components and faults occurring in electrical components.

From Griffin Radiator:https://www.griffinrad.com/electrolysis.php

WHAT IS ELECTROLYSIS?

Electrolysis is the result of electricity flowing through your cooling system and causing an electrochemical charge across the aluminum. This results in rapid corrosion and severe damage to the components in your cooling system including discoloration, pitting, flaking, and pinholes. Most common in late model vehicles, hot rods and street rods, electrolysis will usually occur if there is a defective or missing ground on one of the numerous potential electrical sources.

HOW CAN I TEST FOR ELECTROLYSIS?

To test if your cooling system has been affected by electrolysis, you will need to test the voltage in your cooling system. The first step is to connect the negative lead of a volt/ohm meter to the battery ground. Then, carefully insert the positive lead of the volt/ohm meter into the coolant inside the radiator without contacting the filler neck. If the result is more than 0.10 V, this indicates that there is an electrical current flowing through the system. Continue to check the voltage between the coolant and 1) the engine 2) the frame by touching the negative lead to each respectively. Repeat test with the positive lead touching the radiator instead of the coolant. A simple and usually effective way to try and determine the faulty electrical source is to conduct this test with the engine running and all vehicle accessories on. Have a friend or coworker systematically switch on and off components of the car as you monitor the meter (in some instances, fuses need to be removed in order to switch the accessory off. You may also want to test with the ignition off). If voltage drops when disconnecting an electrical circuit, that circuit represents a likely electrical source.

WAYS TO PREVENT ELECTROLYSIS:

Unfortunately, only the careful monitoring and proper maintenance of your cooling and electrical system can really prevent electrolysis from destroying your system. ALWAYS make sure the radiator is not used as a ground and that all components are functioning properly. Periodically test your system and check for any discoloration or pinholes – especially around the tube-to-header joints and tubes near the center of the core by the electric fan mounts.

Are you guys saying that the radiator needs be unbonded /not grounded on these cars..?? Real question, Lol.

 

[the8rotor]

Hum. Nothing like that from C&R. Just a radiator in a (well packaged) box. I played it fast and loose. I drained the old coolant, installed the radiator, vacuum tested the system then vacuum filled to ensure no air pockets. My car has 4,500 miles. Hopefully there are not shorts and the coolant should be relatively clean.

Looking at buying a coolant vacuum filler, and am torn between a mityvac and an oem automotive. What filler are y'all having luck with?

 

[BlinkerBeat]

Looking at buying a coolant vacuum filler, and am torn between a mityvac and an oem automotive. What filler are y'all having luck with?

I have the OEM Tools coolant vacuum filler. It worked. Cap adapters fit the Civic tank. I haven't used any other systems but Acuity recommended this one for their reverse flow hoses.

 

[the8rotor]

I have the OEM Tools coolant vacuum filler. It worked. Cap adapters fit the Civic tank. I haven't used any other systems but Acuity recommended this one for their reverse flow hoses.

Glad that one worked, thank you!

 

[bcrichster]

These are PWR’s full instructions. They mention the need to safeguard against electrolysis several times and to check for it’s presence on a regular basis.

From the internet:

Radiator Electrolysis

This condition occurs within the cooling system mainly due to current seeking an easy path through the coolant to ground. Typically stray/electric current is the result of accident damage to the vehicle, poor installation of electrical components and faults occurring in electrical components.

From Griffin Radiator:https://www.griffinrad.com/electrolysis.php

WHAT IS ELECTROLYSIS?

Electrolysis is the result of electricity flowing through your cooling system and causing an electrochemical charge across the aluminum. This results in rapid corrosion and severe damage to the components in your cooling system including discoloration, pitting, flaking, and pinholes. Most common in late model vehicles, hot rods and street rods, electrolysis will usually occur if there is a defective or missing ground on one of the numerous potential electrical sources.

HOW CAN I TEST FOR ELECTROLYSIS?

To test if your cooling system has been affected by electrolysis, you will need to test the voltage in your cooling system. The first step is to connect the negative lead of a volt/ohm meter to the battery ground. Then, carefully insert the positive lead of the volt/ohm meter into the coolant inside the radiator without contacting the filler neck. If the result is more than 0.10 V, this indicates that there is an electrical current flowing through the system. Continue to check the voltage between the coolant and 1) the engine 2) the frame by touching the negative lead to each respectively. Repeat test with the positive lead touching the radiator instead of the coolant. A simple and usually effective way to try and determine the faulty electrical source is to conduct this test with the engine running and all vehicle accessories on. Have a friend or coworker systematically switch on and off components of the car as you monitor the meter (in some instances, fuses need to be removed in order to switch the accessory off. You may also want to test with the ignition off). If voltage drops when disconnecting an electrical circuit, that circuit represents a likely electrical source.

WAYS TO PREVENT ELECTROLYSIS:

Unfortunately, only the careful monitoring and proper maintenance of your cooling and electrical system can really prevent electrolysis from destroying your system. ALWAYS make sure the radiator is not used as a ground and that all components are functioning properly. Periodically test your system and check for any discoloration or pinholes – especially around the tube-to-header joints and tubes near the center of the core by the electric fan mounts.

Oh wow.. good to know, Thank you

 

[Random]

Curious. @BlinkerBeat @Lust do you guys recommend changing out the stock charge pipes? Unsure of how beneficial that would be. My current set up is stock at the moment.

 

[BlinkerBeat]

Curious. @BlinkerBeat @Lust do you guys recommend changing out the stock charge pipes? Unsure of how beneficial that would be. My current set up is stock at the moment.

Personal thought is the performance gains are probably not worth the cost. I did because I had the front end apart so why not add them. If you had old hoses or running a lot more boost they could be beneficial.

 

[Lust]

Curious. @BlinkerBeat @Lust do you guys recommend changing out the stock charge pipes? Unsure of how beneficial that would be. My current set up is stock at the moment.

I’m sticking with stock until they break.

 

[Random]

I guess remaining on stock it is lol. Saves some money here. My radiator and intercooler is suppose to be arriving on Thursday. Looking forward to getting it installed.

 

[Random]

Did you guys happen to have a drain bolt come with your radiator? Trying to get it installed. But, my mechanic is saying there's a missing drain bolt and can't reuse the OEM one.

 

[Lust]

Did you guys happen to have a drain bolt come with your radiator? Trying to get it installed. But, my mechanic is saying there's a missing drain bolt and can't reuse the OEM one.

Yea it came with it

 

[BlinkerBeat]

Did you guys happen to have a drain bolt come with your radiator? Trying to get it installed. But, my mechanic is saying there's a missing drain bolt and can't reuse the OEM one.

Mine did not and the OEM was way to big. I called Cory at C&R and they sent me a drain plug. He said they were fixing that issue....

I think it is M12x1.5

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