Brake Vibration

[Nickthewaffler]

Hi everyone,

So about 7 months ago, I changed out all of my rotors and pads after my rear rotors started getting scratched by burnt out pads roughly 12,000 miles early. I did do some aggressive canyon driving at least once a month for year before then, so maybe that's why. But anyway, I loved the new rotors and pads I got, some Japanese drilled and slotted with ebc yellow stuff in front and hawk 5.0 is the back.

About a couple months ago, I started noticing that when I brake the cars starts to shake like there is rotor warp, but after disassembly, inspection, and reassembly, I couldn't find any scratches, warp or issues with the rotors, pads, or calipers. I think the problem is the back wheels, as the steering is straight on, just some shaking as if there is something stuck to one point on the rotor, it keeps biting it when I'm rolling slowly and sometimes even makes a louder noise than usual at that "bite" point.

I am also running some spacers, 20mm all around, they are generic brand, so I thought maybe they were the issue, but I'm not so sure. Removing them didn't seem to help out.

All lugs are tight- please don't be that guy

Maybe fluid? Maybe lines? What do you guys think, I'm not sure what it could be, the Honda guys didn't want to touch my car with all the aftermarket stuff. It's lowered, spacers, wheels, etc... everything but rear camber is in OEM allignement.

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[jayy_swish]

What brand rotors?
If it’s biting one 1 point like you say you probably were braking aggressively got the pads hot holding the brake and the pads got impeded on the rotor. If your only receiving this shake when braking it has to be rotor warp, brake pad, or calipers. If your insistent that it is not a warped rotor, then try running different pads to see if the issue persists. Inspect the pads to see if it has even wear if it does then it’s not the caliper. If it still vibrates and the pads are evenly used, and the pads have been swapped, then it’s the rotors. Check out some R1Concept rotors. They’re well priced and haven’t had any issues with them. There pads aren’t badly priced too if you want some experimental pads to see if the problem persists.

 

[SCcanyoncrvr]

Hi everyone,

So about 7 months ago, I changed out all of my rotors and pads after my rear rotors started getting scratched by burnt out pads roughly 12,000 miles early. I did do some aggressive canyon driving at least once a month for year before then, so maybe that's why. But anyway, I loved the new rotors and pads I got, some Japanese drilled and slotted with ebc yellow stuff in front and hawk 5.0 is the back.

About a couple months ago, I started noticing that when I brake the cars starts to shake like there is rotor warp, but after disassembly, inspection, and reassembly, I couldn't find any scratches, warp or issues with the rotors, pads, or calipers. I think the problem is the back wheels, as the steering is straight on, just some shaking as if there is something stuck to one point on the rotor, it keeps biting it when I'm rolling slowly and sometimes even makes a louder noise than usual at that "bite" point.

I am also running some spacers, 20mm all around, they are generic brand, so I thought maybe they were the issue, but I'm not so sure. Removing them didn't seem to help out.

All lugs are tight- please don't be that guy

Maybe fluid? Maybe lines? What do you guys think, I'm not sure what it could be, the Honda guys didn't want to touch my car with all the aftermarket stuff. It's lowered, spacers, wheels, etc... everything but rear camber is in OEM allignement.

I had this same issue and discovered my driver side caliper was damaged. I noticed It more at my last track day. After testing the caliper the piston was moving much slower than the passenger side. I literally just replaced the whole caliper yesterday instead of opting to rebuild since I got a stellar deal on used calipers off a totalled SI. Vibration is completely gone and the initial bite on the brakes Is 10x better now.

 

[Nickthewaffler]

What brand rotors?
If it’s biting one 1 point like you say you probably were braking aggressively got the pads hot holding the brake and the pads got impeded on the rotor. If your only receiving this shake when braking it has to be rotor warp, brake pad, or calipers. If your insistent that it is not a warped rotor, then try running different pads to see if the issue persists. Inspect the pads to see if it has even wear if it does then it’s not the caliper. If it still vibrates and the pads are evenly used, and the pads have been swapped, then it’s the rotors. Check out some R1Concept rotors. They’re well priced and haven’t had any issues with them. There pads aren’t badly priced too if you want some experimental pads to see if the problem persists.

Not exactly sure on the brand, I think it was called dixcell or something like that. I had my friend in Japan send them to me, per his recommendation. The sizing is correct, I checked. It's not a warped rotor, the surface is smooth. I might try to put on the OEM rotors in the rear, even though they are scrathed, they aren't warped, so maybe the issue will go away. Guess I got something to keep me busy at least. I saw R1 rotors before, so if it comes to getting new rotors, I'll consider it. Thanks for your reply.

 

[Nickthewaffler]

I had this same issue and discovered my driver side caliper was damaged. I noticed It more at my last track day. After testing the caliper the piston was moving much slower than the passenger side. I literally just replaced the whole caliper yesterday instead of opting to rebuild since I got a stellar deal on used calipers off a totalled SI. Vibration is completely gone and the initial bite on the brakes Is 10x better now.

Hmmm intresting, did you notice a change in the steering direction when you were braking hard? Like a pull or something? If it was front brakes, that would almost always be a symptom, at least, I think. Also, how did you test this, did you just stand outside the car while someone pushed the brakes in? If anything, I might just go for a full retrofit swap, or a big brake kit. I really am burning through my brakes, less than OEM and with faster cooling, but still not the desired consistency/stopping power.

 

[SCcanyoncrvr]

Hmmm intresting, did you notice a change in the steering direction when you were braking hard? Like a pull or something? If it was front brakes, that would almost always be a symptom, at least, I think. Also, how did you test this, did you just stand outside the car while someone pushed the brakes in? If anything, I might just go for a full retrofit swap, or a big brake kit. I really am burning through my brakes, less than OEM and with faster cooling, but still not the desired consistency/stopping power.

You are correct as far as checking the caliper. There was no significant pull happening on one side since the caliper was still working. I too run the canyons every weekend and have done multiple track days. I almost pulled the trigger on the wilwood bbk for 1k but in the end felt the stock calipers are sufficient for my cars setup.

 

[SCcanyoncrvr]

Is the wobble happening right away even during daily conservative driving? Or when your car is in the middle of a spirited run?

 

[Nickthewaffler]

Is the wobble happening right away even during daily conservative driving? Or when your car is in the middle of a spirited run?

It fluctuates throughout the day, I think it gets worse as the brakes warm up, but sometimes it's fairly noticeable right of the bat.

The intensity not so high, I can control it such that passengers will never know about it, and It doesn't bother me until I start paying attention to it.

I'll check out the pistons when I get a moment, and a friend to help me.

 

[jayy_swish]

Brembo BBK conversion is the best cheap way to get a big break kit. Only issue is wheel Fitment, but a big improvement over stock when I take my car up for canyon runs. No brake fade what’s so ever. Check out slick fab:
http://slickfabllc-com.3dcartstores.com/Brembo-Big-Brake-Upgrades_p_28.html

 

[Nickthewaffler]

Brembo BBK conversion is the best cheap way to get a big break kit. Only issue is wheel Fitment, but a big improvement over stock when I take my car up for canyon runs. No brake fade what’s so ever. Check out slick fab:
http://slickfabllc-com.3dcartstores.com/Brembo-Big-Brake-Upgrades_p_28.html

Yeah, I was considering going this route, but with some used Brembo's and a acura rotor, but at this price, the link you sent, it's not that bad. Also, if you get "no brake fade" you're not braking enough lol. I've gotten fade on turbo s 911, and that bad boy had some BRAKE on it. Although, I'm sure for most runs, uphill and such, it's practically insignificant. I'm worried that the problem is at my rear brakes, which this won't fix.

Btw, I like the color on the wheels, fits your paint IMO.

 

[jayy_swish]

Yeah, I was considering going this route, but with some used Brembo's and a acura rotor, but at this price, the link you sent, it's not that bad. Also, if you get "no brake fade" you're not braking enough lol. I've gotten fade on turbo s 911, and that bad boy had some BRAKE on it. Although, I'm sure for most runs, uphill and such, it's practically insignificant. I'm worried that the problem is at my rear brakes, which this won't fix.

Btw, I like the color on the wheels, fits your paint IMO.

Oh a 911 is way above this when it comes to HP lol so those brakes are put to WORK, at these hp levels were at there’s really no brake fade with some good set of pads. You’ll smell the brakes for sure but with good pads, drilled and slotted rotors, and some ATE Type 200 Dot 4 racing brake fluid (or Motul 5.1) you shouldn’t have any issues and I don’t have SS brake lines either. Will get to that eventually lol. The rear brakes are tiny but I mean the type r has 306hp and has the same rear brakes. Most of the stopping comes from the front anyways, but the rears do activate when trying to stabilize the car so the pads get eaten up fast unless you full disable traction control. And appreciate it!... thought of powder coating them Gloss black but was going to test with plastidip to see if I liked the change. Just haven’t gotten around to it lol

 

[nox]

almost always it’s caliper issue in this situation same as other car brands

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