Brake Service / Brake Fluide Change

[Rickmeister 48]

There isn't really any important reason to do it in a particular sequence. However, it does make sense to do the shortest route first, since that is the route that the majority of the old fluid needs to travel before getting evacuated. That includes the fluid in the reservoir, master cylinder, and ABS module. Once that fluid is replaced with new fluid, then the only old fluid left is within the individual brake lines. At that point it doesn't matter what sequence you use as long as you keep track.

Even if there is air, it still makes sense to first go the shortest distance since that is the quickest way to get the air out of the system.

In fact, the fastest way to replace the fluid is to open all the brake bleeders at once and force the fluid from the top. That way is much faster than doing it one bleeder at a time.

Edit: found this:

Lol, since I can't afford one of those,all I need is five other guys to help file I i for new fluid in,haha

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[charleswrivers]

Lol, since I can't afford one of those,all I need is five other guys to help file I i for new fluid in,haha

All the auto parts stores I know will do a 'free' rental (you leave a deposit, effectively buying it but get all your money back if you return it in a month or so) of the little vacuum hand pump for bleeding brakes at least, if you want to go that route. You can be a dear and buy the few dollar container of brake fluid from them to keep their doors open.

 

[DKL]

A quart of fresh brake fluid, a jack, some vinyl hose to attach to the bleeder nipples a catch container and a 10mm box wrench. Oh, and a couple cold beers. An assistant to pump the old fluid out can speed up the process, but not necessary. I should look into one of those bleeder kits.

 

[SCOPESYS]

THREE HUNDRED DOLLARS TO CHANGE BRAKE FLUID.

F*ck.

Are you sure that's all they want to do?

$300 would buy you about 25 Gallons of Brake Fluid !!

$30 buys you enough of the highest grade Fluid for a complete flush, with a $20 One-Man Flush bottle, you can do it in about 30 minutes yourself -- and be 100% sure it was done !!!
$50 + 1/2 Hour, $30 the next time ...

Brake flush is easier than an Oil change... no filter to mess with, and far less fluid to dispose of...

Got to wonder what the "Dealer Standard Job Time" is for a Brake Flush .. got to be at least 2 hours

 

[racer]

While the simple "pump pump pump, hold, bleed" will work, and will get the majority of air bubbles and old fluid out, the key part is to get the ABS module to run/bleed. Doing the above does not get the fluid moving through the ABS pump, effectively leaving old fluid in the system.

I was taught long ago on my track cars to bleed the farthest wheel first (usually passenger rear, then driver rear, then passenger front, then drivers front). I also have a motive power bleeder to assist.

Not sure about the tools the Honda dealer uses - IE, power bleeder (ie, push fluid through the system) or a power vacuum/evacuator . I would assume that part of their process is to cycle the ABS module as well.

 

[SCOPESYS]

While the simple "pump pump pump, hold, bleed" will work, and will get the majority of air bubbles and old fluid out, the key part is to get the ABS module to run/bleed. Doing the above does not get the fluid moving through the ABS pump, effectively leaving old fluid in the system.

.

So, how does one get the old fluid out of the ABS system ? If there a bleed valve somewhere ?

 

[CivicXI]

So, how does one get the old fluid out of the ABS system ? If there a bleed valve somewhere ?

Do the fluid change in the winter. Then go out on an icy hill and ABS all the way down. Then change fluid again haha.

 

[racer]

So, how does one get the old fluid out of the ABS system ? If there a bleed valve somewhere ?

Here is an older link from Stoptech, but its still the same- you need a special tool to cycle the computer to trigger the ABS

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/bleeding-abs-brake-systems

With these systems, the correct way to bleed the ENTIRE vehicle is to employ a Dealer service tool (it usually looks like a Nintendo GameBoy) that allows you to cycle the ABS valves and/or the pump motor WHILE you are bleeding the brakes. In effect, this allows you to open the hidden passages in order to purge the fluid completely. Fresh fluid is then drawn into the ABS unit, and the old stuff can be flushed away with the rest of the mess. Nothing to it.

The end result takes a little more time than a conventional bleed, and requires you use a little more fluid, but looks like this:

Step 1 - Manually bleed RR, LR, RF, LF brakes
Step 2 - Install service tool and cycle all valves and/or pumps
Step 3 - Manually bleed RR, LR, RF, and LF brakes again

You end up having bled the system twice, but this is necessary to ensure that fresh fluid - and NOT used fluid - is drawn into the unit the next time that the ABS valves (and/or pump) are cycled

 

[civicdabest-foo]

racer, that article also suggests you can get by without the tool:

But What If I Don't Have The Dealer Service Tool?


If you really feel the need to cycle the valves, but do not have access to a service tool (or if the dealer is not willing to loan theirs) you COULD just replace Step #2 above with "go driving and slam on the brakes a few times to make the ABS work" to purge the used fluid from the unit. This is usually NOT the most efficient nor socially responsible solution, though it seems to work just fine. You still need to bleed the car a second time, but it saves you from procuring the service tool.


-----

I wonder if this actually works. For those who live in areas where roads are iced over in winter, it should be easy to get bleed once, then get civicx out and get the ABS to cycle easily on a local road, then bleed again. Could save you from dealership work and having to buy that special scan tool? Perhaps this would satisfy most DIY'ers?

 

[racer]

And at somepoint, its a measure of convenience. Spend 2 hours bleeding your brakes.. in the cold of winter just so you can trigger the ABS pump? Or spend $100? to have the dealer / shop do it for you.. and stay warm and dry and have a beer. Or just bleed as normal and skip the ABS pump flush. There are always choices.

 

[CivicXI]

There is like maybe 2 liters of fluid in the car total and maybe 100ml of fluid in the abs unit. Once that activates a few times, it'll mix with everything around it.

This is just a guess but it's probably a 1:5 ratio with the new fluid. You probably don't even need to change the fluid again. Rather than change the fluid every 3 years, you just do it every 2.

 

[R&Civic]

Going to Wake this thread up a bit!

I purchase my civic Mar 7 this year and just hit approx 23K. Got a service code 0-1-9. So went in for my second oil change. The service advisor asked if I want to have my brake check and service. I was shock. I simply declined it due to the fact 80%+ of my milage are all highway. And when you are driving that much highway, I don't touch my brake that often.

Anyway, I might need to start look for a local shop that is reputable, this dealership is crazy!

 

[TimberWolf]

Going to Wake this thread up a bit!

I purchase my civic Mar 7 this year and just hit approx 23K. Got a service code 0-1-9. So went in for my second oil change. The service advisor asked if I want to have my brake check and service. I was shock. I simply declined it due to the fact 80%+ of my milage are all highway. And when you are driving that much highway, I don't touch my brake that often.

Anyway, I might need to start look for a local shop that is reputable, this dealership is crazy!

Or, how about actually reading the manual so you don't look like an idiot? The dealer is going by the maintenance minder.

 

[R&Civic]

Or, how about actually reading the manual so you don't look like an idiot? The dealer is going by the maintenance minder.

Good point. I actually never really look into my manual. I really should. Lol

I guess I should rephrase or word it better. I understand the dealership just go by the maintenance minder. But every situation is a different and unique, they should be able to see that I only have my car for 9 months and I have that much Km. They should have ask more detail (in my mind) before suggesting.

I was simply shock that's all.

 

[kered424]

Unpopular opinion: You can probably get away with changing the brake fluid in the master cylinder only. Most of the brake fluid is in the master cylinder, and if you change that, most of your fluid will be clean/new. If any of you watch Eric the Car Guy on youtube, he says that this is what some mechanics do (not him, but he knew some who do this) when you take your care in for a brake fluid change. Eric used to be a Honda/Acura mechanic before becoming a youtube mechanic, and I trust most of the stuff he recommends.

Obviously, a flush would be ideal, but if you're like me and don't want to bleed the brake lines, this is better than nothing.

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