Brake Rotor Retaining Screw Advice

Tev42

Senior Member
First Name
Tyler
Joined
Jul 28, 2019
Threads
20
Messages
481
Reaction score
368
Location
San Diego
Vehicle(s)
2019 CTR
Country flag
I am not replacing my rotors anytime soon, but I was considering removing the retaining screws now rather than waiting until I need to replace the rotors. I have heard arguments from both sides, some say the retaining screws need to be there, others say they are just there to keep the rotors on as the car progresses through the assembly line. Once the wheel is on and the lug nuts are properly torqued, the rotor should be firmly in place regardless of whether the retaining screw is there or not.

I had an Si and when I replaced the stock rotors at the end of their life the retaining screws almost broke my will to live. Honda must have brought in Zeus to put those screws in.

I bought a budget impact driver from Harbor Freight and stripped every damn screw due to a lack of familiarity with the tool (and buying a cheap tool). My fix there was to drill a hole through the retaining screw to make it weaker, then take a bolt and put it through the back of the caliper mount towards the rotor, so that the threaded end was pushing on the back of the rotor. I put a nut on the bolt, held it in place with one wrench and used another wrench to tighten the bolt, effectively pushing the bolt into the back of the rotor until the retaining screw was forced out. It worked for all 8 screws but was definitely a potshot approach. I would like to avoid that

For anybody who has already replaced rotors, or anybody with a firm understanding about the practicality of rotor retaining screws: Can I take them out and leave them out?
Sponsored

 

charleswrivers

Senior Member
First Name
Charles
Joined
Nov 3, 2017
Threads
43
Messages
3,736
Reaction score
4,468
Location
Kingsland, GA
Vehicle(s)
'14 Odyssey, '94 300zx, 2001 F-150
Vehicle Showcase
1
Country flag
they are just there to keep the rotors on as the car progresses through the assembly line
I've heard the same thing. I've replaced rotors with them not installed and struggled to remove them when they were. When they weren't there... I didn't go out and buy replacements. When they were there… I replaced them w/a touch of anti-seize on the threads. I liked the fact they were tight on the hub when I put the caliper/pads back on around the rotor. It also felt wrong putting it back together w/left over fasteners.

That's me and probably adds little to the discussion. I've also never had to replace a set of rotors that I have replaced a second time... to prove the anti-seize I put on the retaining screw made removing it a non-event. I expect in 3-5 years I'll replace the Odyssey's that I replaced a year or two back since I intend to keep it for several more years. I got 4-5 years and 80k out of the originals before they needed replacing and likely could be touched up and reused... and stuck them out in my shed for whenever it's time.
 

ApexEight

Senior Member
First Name
Anthony
Joined
Jul 13, 2018
Threads
31
Messages
912
Reaction score
439
Location
Atlanta, GA, USA
Vehicle(s)
2019 Honda Civic Type R
Country flag
Yeah I would definitely take them out now while they should be easy to take out and put a little bit of anti-seize on the threads, or just leave them off if that's your style. I'm OCD and would put them on though. Make sure you have the proper size Philips and apply downward (forward) pressure on the head while turning. Maybe let some PB Blaster dwell on it for a bit to loosen it up first.
 

jayy_swish

Senior Member
First Name
Jay
Joined
Mar 10, 2020
Threads
18
Messages
1,291
Reaction score
890
Location
Los Angeles
Vehicle(s)
2019 Honda Civic Sport Touring
Country flag
You not suppose to use the regular screw driver it requires a different bit, that’s why they get stripped so easily. It requires a p3 screw driver, it’s a Japanese screw its meant to add a lot of torque without stripping the Philip head that’s why they’re on hard as hell lol (although it looks the same as a regular screw, it’s different). This screwdriver works wonders!

https://www.amazon.com/Vessel-125943-P3x150-Impacta-Screwdriver/dp/B003BGTTSE

It’s an impact screw driver. If the screw is too hard to loosen hit the end of it with a hammer and each impact turns the screw driver a little bit loosening the screw. Add anti-seize next time also, but you don’t need to add the screw.. it’s meant to hold the rotor in place. Car won’t be effect in anyway if you do not add it
 

d15b7

Senior Member
First Name
Todd
Joined
Nov 10, 2018
Threads
1
Messages
116
Reaction score
189
Location
21921
Vehicle(s)
2018 Civic Type R, 1995 Civic EG K24/20 EFR7163 Fortune Auto track weapon
Country flag
you don't need those screws. pretty much every one of my hondas I've removed them with an impact driver. if they stripped (its about 50/50) I drill them out and i never replace them. they don't do anything other than hold the rotor during assembly. the rotor is centered by the hub bore and is clamped by the wheel and lug nuts.
 


OP
OP
Tev42

Tev42

Senior Member
First Name
Tyler
Joined
Jul 28, 2019
Threads
20
Messages
481
Reaction score
368
Location
San Diego
Vehicle(s)
2019 CTR
Country flag

jayy_swish

Senior Member
First Name
Jay
Joined
Mar 10, 2020
Threads
18
Messages
1,291
Reaction score
890
Location
Los Angeles
Vehicle(s)
2019 Honda Civic Sport Touring
Country flag
I tried an impact driver with my Si a few years back, maybe that driver had a phillips head instead of a pozidriv, I don't remember but that would make sense.

I will give this tool a shot
Also give this Bluetooth OBDII reader a try. If you do DIY brake jobs this is able to put our rear electronic parking brake into maintenance mode. So you can work on the rears, won’t even need a twisting rear brake piston compression tool either you can just push the piston in like how you do the front pistons. Just push them into the caliper, no twisting needed.
https://www.amazon.com/Autel-Bluetooth-Diagnoses-Functions-Diagnostic/dp/B07Y8K6XZF
 

XxTeexX

Senior Member
First Name
Tee
Joined
Apr 9, 2020
Threads
3
Messages
99
Reaction score
43
Location
Ontario
Vehicle(s)
2019 Civic Sport Hatch & 2018 Civic EX
Country flag
First day I took my hatch home I took out those rotor screws. They have made my life a living hell in the past and I refuse to deal with that again! Even taking them out the first day I had to use an impact driver but they all came out !

the tool the user posted above looks a little weak (my opinion) . This is what I used and had no difficulty .

TEKTON 2910 1/2-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000NPUJYE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_e10JEbJ1G0866
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
Tev42

Tev42

Senior Member
First Name
Tyler
Joined
Jul 28, 2019
Threads
20
Messages
481
Reaction score
368
Location
San Diego
Vehicle(s)
2019 CTR
Country flag
Also give this Bluetooth OBDII reader a try. If you do DIY brake jobs this is able to put our rear electronic parking brake into maintenance mode. So you can work on the rears, won’t even need a twisting rear brake piston compression tool either you can just push the piston in like how you do the front pistons. Just push them into the caliper, no twisting needed.
https://www.amazon.com/Autel-Bluetooth-Diagnoses-Functions-Diagnostic/dp/B07Y8K6XZF

The rear parking brake issue is something else I have been looking into. I see some people taking major precautions and removing things to prevent damaging the electronic parking brake, and other people say "I just took out the pads and screwed the pistons in with the normal brake tool and my parking brake is fine"

As with everything in the world, there are two conflicting sides who swear by their respective practices
 

jayy_swish

Senior Member
First Name
Jay
Joined
Mar 10, 2020
Threads
18
Messages
1,291
Reaction score
890
Location
Los Angeles
Vehicle(s)
2019 Honda Civic Sport Touring
Country flag
The rear parking brake issue is something else I have been looking into. I see some people taking major precautions and removing things to prevent damaging the electronic parking brake, and other people say "I just took out the pads and screwed the pistons in with the normal brake tool and my parking brake is fine"

As with everything in the world, there are two conflicting sides who swear by their respective practices
Yeah I mean it’s all up to the owner it can be a hit or miss. Some have success with it while others don’t. Unless your putting it in maintenance mode or removing the motor and loosening it from the back... a twist rear brake compression tool from the front (although can be done with success) is not the intended way of doing it. I rather spend $70 on this OBDII reader than about $200 for a new caliper. If you kill the internals of the EPB in the caliper the only fix is a new caliper. The motor though that can be replaced separately.

The one major issue is the the wire harness clip for the EPB that brakes. Unplug it before working on the rears
 


Hollywoo0220

Customer Service oriented (most of the time) :-)
First Name
RJ
Joined
Feb 10, 2019
Threads
5
Messages
744
Reaction score
524
Location
WA
Vehicle(s)
Dihatsu Charade, BMW, Various Hondas, Focus ST, and VW GTI
Country flag
You not suppose to use the regular screw driver it requires a different bit, that’s why they get stripped so easily. It requires a p3 screw driver, it’s a Japanese screw its meant to add a lot of torque without stripping the Philip head that’s why they’re on hard as hell lol (although it looks the same as a regular screw, it’s different). This screwdriver works wonders!

https://www.amazon.com/Vessel-125943-P3x150-Impacta-Screwdriver/dp/B003BGTTSE

It’s an impact screw driver. If the screw is too hard to loosen hit the end of it with a hammer and each impact turns the screw driver a little bit loosening the screw. Add anti-seize next time also, but you don’t need to add the screw.. it’s meant to hold the rotor in place. Car won’t be effect in anyway if you do not add it
Also give this Bluetooth OBDII reader a try. If you do DIY brake jobs this is able to put our rear electronic parking brake into maintenance mode. So you can work on the rears, won’t even need a twisting rear brake piston compression tool either you can just push the piston in like how you do the front pistons. Just push them into the caliper, no twisting needed.
https://www.amazon.com/Autel-Bluetooth-Diagnoses-Functions-Diagnostic/dp/B07Y8K6XZF
YES. What he mentioned. P3 screw driver.
and
Without the need to put the car in "Maintenance" mode; jack stand the rear passenger/driver sides, block brace one of the front wheels (front & back), turn the ignition cycle on, shift to N, then turn off the ignition. No E-Bake in that position.

If you care for something more durable, that you will be able to use down the line on other vehicles then, this impact would be a very affordable option also:
https://www.acehardware.com/departm...VtBx9Ch0hDQfMEAQYBCABEgLJT_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
Tev42

Tev42

Senior Member
First Name
Tyler
Joined
Jul 28, 2019
Threads
20
Messages
481
Reaction score
368
Location
San Diego
Vehicle(s)
2019 CTR
Country flag
Yeah I mean it’s all up to the owner it can be a hit or miss. Some have success with it while others don’t. Unless your putting it in maintenance mode or removing the motor and loosening it from the back... a twist rear brake compression tool from the front (although can be done with success) is not the intended way of doing it. I rather spend $70 on this OBDII reader than about $200 for a new caliper. If you kill the internals of the EPB in the caliper the only fix is a new caliper. The motor though that can be replaced separately.

The one major issue is the the wire harness clip for the EPB that brakes. Unplug it before working on the rears
I'm definitely erring on the side of caution for the rear brake job and will not just rotate the pistons in with a traditional tool. High risk, low reward
 
OP
OP
Tev42

Tev42

Senior Member
First Name
Tyler
Joined
Jul 28, 2019
Threads
20
Messages
481
Reaction score
368
Location
San Diego
Vehicle(s)
2019 CTR
Country flag
Without the need to put the car in "Maintenance" mode; jack stand the rear passenger/driver sides, block brace one of the front wheels (front & back), turn the ignition cycle on, shift to N, then turn off the ignition. No E-Bake in that position.
With this approach, at the end of what you just explained, the rear will be lifted and the parking brake will be off. After removing pads, what would be your approach to retract the pistons?
 

bluehatch17

Senior Member
First Name
bluehatch17
Joined
Dec 18, 2018
Threads
97
Messages
2,251
Reaction score
1,209
Location
NJ
Vehicle(s)
2018 sport touring hatchback. 2019 Coupe sport.
Country flag
Don’t need it. Remove it.
 

Hollywoo0220

Customer Service oriented (most of the time) :-)
First Name
RJ
Joined
Feb 10, 2019
Threads
5
Messages
744
Reaction score
524
Location
WA
Vehicle(s)
Dihatsu Charade, BMW, Various Hondas, Focus ST, and VW GTI
Country flag
With this approach, at the end of what you just explained, the rear will be lifted and the parking brake will be off. After removing pads, what would be your approach to retract the pistons?
You can then use the "turn key" tool to push them in, as there would not be any resistance from the vehicle electronics.
Prior to, also loosen up the Brake Fluid cap.
When done, slightly open the bleeder screw (with a bleeder hose attached that is placed into a receptical of water and submerged).
Fully Depress the brake pedal and release.
Go back to the bleeder screw and tighten it / Then untighten it again
**Do that 2x and on the 2nd one just tighten the bleeder screw.

That will ensure you have no air in that line.
Then of course, fill your brake fluid resevoir to the proper level.

If you were doing this as a preventative measure, that all you need to do.
If doing it as scheduled maintainance, you would want to do that to each line until ALL of the fluid comes out of each line the same coloring as the new fluid.
Sponsored

 
Last edited:


 


Top