Brake Fluid code 7 after only 33k highway miles?

[Gruber]

If you haven't re-bled the rear brakes yet, I would. The service repair manual (you can just google it and download for free) indicates that you should bleed all four calipers in the following order:

Front Driver, Front Passenger, Rear Passenger, Rear Driver.

Then, actuate the ebrake 5 times.

Then re-bleed the rear brakes.

See the note at the bottom of my attached image.

This is the same order of bleeding as in my CR-V. Some people, including those making youtube videos on brake servicing, don't check on this and do the typical order (RP, RD, FP, FD). Anyone knows the specific reason Honda does it differently?
Just curious. It seems like the brake system component locations are similar to other cars. People often say you can guess the bleeding sequence by looking where they are located, which doesn't seem to be true. The truth is only in the service manual.

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[Dario1101]

If you haven't re-bled the rear brakes yet, I would. The service repair manual (you can just google it and download for free) indicates that you should bleed all four calipers in the following order:

Front Driver, Front Passenger, Rear Passenger, Rear Driver.

Then, actuate the ebrake 5 times.

Then re-bleed the rear brakes.

See the note at the bottom of my attached image.

Thanks! It's been a year since that post and in that time I replaced my front brakes in March of this year, so I had a chance to bleed the brakes again. When I did it this time, I didn't turn on the E-brake; now the pedal feels good and the E-brake is easy to disengage. Next time I bleed my brakes I'll make sure to follow the manual's instructions on the wheel order and also to cycle the E-brake five times, definitely sounds like the best way to get the air out of that line.

Also, if you're able, would you mind PMing me the service manual for this car? Thank you!

 

[Aegean303]

Just bleed my brakes and they felt great! (Before engaging the e brake 5 times)

I just notice the bottom notice we’re suppose to engage the e brake 5 times and re bleed the rear. I did that, and it felt like all the effort I did went to waste... for some reason my brakes are soft now....

 

[Dario1101]

Just bleed my brakes and they felt great! (Before engaging the e brake 5 times)

I just notice the bottom notice we’re suppose to engage the e brake 5 times and re bleed the rear. I did that, and it felt like all the effort I did went to waste... for some reason my brakes are soft now....

Bleeding the brakes is weird with this e-brake, honestly.

 

[Aegean303]

Bleeding the brakes is weird with this e-brake, honestly.

true that.. now I have to waste more time just to redo it all over again... I’m thinking if the “ebrake” pushes air in the system wouldn’t it be easier to engage it in the beginning process then bleed everything out ?

 

[Dario1101]

true that.. now I have to waste more time just to redo it all over again... I’m thinking if the “ebrake” pushes air in the system wouldn’t it be easier to engage it in the beginning process then bleed everything out ?

I did that, and no; if you undo the e-brake after bleeding it's as if some air gets back into the system somehow or whatever the case is it makes the pedal hard to fully press down, especially if you're trying to turn off the e-brake after turning it on. I bled my brakes like that at first but the pedal just got too much for me to push down to turn off the e-brake since I always turn it on after parking, that when I bled my brakes again and didn't use the e-brake the pedal is now smooth and not hard like how it is from the factory.

 

[PNWCIVICSPORTHB]

i have a pressure bleeder and vacuum bleeder. with these no way will i do the brake pump way again. i prefer the vacuum bleeding method and its quick. i do it when i jack up the vehicle on all corners to rotate tires. i vac till i see the old dark fluid change to clear clean fluid in that line. then refill the MC. take 20 mins max

i actually never follow the pattern and never had any issue with any of the cars i have done. they all run off their own line anyways.

with regards to does it need to be changed every three years? if you follow the book yes, but lots of this stuff is kinda make work for dealerships. there are litterally hundreds of thousands of vehicle one the road over 10 years old or more that have never had the fluid changed with no issues. those that read car forums tend to be more enthusiastic about their vehicles and take care of them better. the average person its just to get from A to B

 

[TranceFC1]

Does anyone know which size tubing to get the best fit on the bleeders?

 

[Dario1101]

Does anyone know which size tubing to get the best fit on the bleeders?

Not sure, but this fit great (though they're a little elastic)

 

[stanleywinthrop]

i have a pressure bleeder and vacuum bleeder. with these no way will i do the brake pump way again. i prefer the vacuum bleeding method and its quick. i do it when i jack up the vehicle on all corners to rotate tires. i vac till i see the old dark fluid change to clear clean fluid in that line. then refill the MC. take 20 mins max

i actually never follow the pattern and never had any issue with any of the cars i have done. they all run off their own line anyways.

with regards to does it need to be changed every three years? if you follow the book yes, but lots of this stuff is kinda make work for dealerships. there are litterally hundreds of thousands of vehicle one the road over 10 years old or more that have never had the fluid changed with no issues. those that read car forums tend to be more enthusiastic about their vehicles and take care of them better. the average person its just to get from A to B

I get your response but let me add this to the equation. My 9th gen civic's book recommended flushing the brakes and clutch every 3 years. I did the brakes as required but I never touched the clutch. (The 9th gen clutch fluid was separate from the brakes). After 6 years a seal on my clutch slave cylinder blew and it developed a leak. (A fairly easy fix). I'm convinced that the old dirty fluid had eaten the seal and it wouldn't have happened if I had flushed the clutch when I flushed the brakes.

 

[Dario1101]

I get your response but let me add this to the equation. My 9th gen civic's book recommended flushing the brakes and clutch every 3 years. I did the brakes as required but I never touched the clutch. (The 9th gen clutch fluid was separate from the brakes). After 6 years a seal on my clutch slave cylinder blew and it developed a leak. (A fairly easy fix). I'm convinced that the old dirty fluid had eaten the seal and it wouldn't have happened if I had flushed the clutch when I flushed the brakes.

The reason people recommend to change your brake fluid after three years is so that any water that leaks into the brake system gets flushed out. You don't want water in the lines because brakes get hot, and water vaporizes at temperatures below that of brake fluid. This creates a "gap" of water vapor in the brake lines that makes your pedal feel really squishy after a long time and thereby reduces braking power.

Here's a nice article from cars.com about it.

 

[wdrx02]

Got the A7 indicator light driving back from the body shop.

16k and has not been driven for the past 6 months - so yea... must be programmed for to check/change every 3 years.

I am waiting for a brake fluid check I got from Amazon for $12 for reassurance and checks but, being in the great PNW. I think its ideal to bleed the brake soon and add some new Brake fluid.

 

[ayau]

if you have some basic mechanic skills, you can bleed it for $10 and an hour of your time. just gravity bleed it.

i bleed my cars once a year since it's so cheap.

 

[imccly89]

I just did this and have a few tips.

1. Get two bottles of brake fluid (12oz each) from Honda. They were $6 each for me at the service desk and I picked up some extra crush rings too for oil changes. You could get three bottles of you wanted to flush the clutch lines too or just wanted a cheap insurance in case you go through a lot, but two bottles was fine for me.

2. When engaging and disengaging the e-brake 5 times after flushing the rear, make sure to let your foot off the brake each time you engage or disengage. I didn't at first (not sure why...laziness maybe?) so I had to do it again.

3. I got one of those bleeder bottles with one way valves off Amazon and it worked great. I definitely prefer this to the two person method where you need to crack and close the bleeder valve at just the right time.

 

[Joseloga0297]

I just did this and have a few tips.

1. Get two bottles of brake fluid (12oz each) from Honda. They were $6 each for me at the service desk and I picked up some extra crush rings too for oil changes. You could get three bottles of you wanted to flush the clutch lines too or just wanted a cheap insurance in case you go through a lot, but two bottles was fine for me.

2. When engaging and disengaging the e-brake 5 times after flushing the rear, make sure to let your foot off the brake each time you engage or disengage. I didn't at first (not sure why...laziness maybe?) so I had to do it again.

3. I got one of those bleeder bottles with one way valves off Amazon and it worked great. I definitely prefer this to the two person method where you need to crack and close the bleeder valve at just the right time.

Hey, what do you mean when you say to make sure to let your foot off the brake each time you engage or disengage? Were you pumping the brake pedal?

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