Brake Bleed Sequence

[ems657]

Hey folks,

The weather is getting warmer and the track season is getting closer …. It’s time to bleed my brakes!

I searched in this forum but couldn’t find anything. Does anyone know the bleeding sequence? The old saying is from the far corner/wheel, but this isn’t always true with modern ABS. the owner’s manual says “please go to the dealer” (ahhh, doesn’t help).

Any suggestion is greatly appreciated! Thank you.

Michael

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[Hollywoo0220]

@ems657
Yes, you are correct in your first thought.
Lift the back end
Begin with the passenger Rear then driver side
Same thing for the front

You can use DOT4 for increased heat tolerance, you will just need to change that more frequently than DOT3; as it will absorb more condensation.

Any more detail feel free to ask...

 

[racer]

The advantage the dealer has is that they should have the tool to cycle the ABS pump so as to assure old fluid is pushed out of the system. Otherwise, yes, the tradition of starting the farthest away holds true. A good DOT4 fluid would be minimum for track use. Lots of brands/preferences, but of course, the higher the boiling points (dry and wet) the better off you will be in a track environment.

 

[hobby-man]

@ems657
Yes, you are correct in your first thought.
Lift the back end
Begin with the passenger Rear then driver side
Same thing for the front

You can use DOT4 for increased heat tolerance, you will just need to change that more frequently than DOT3; as it will absorb more condensation.

Any more detail feel free to ask...

The advantage the dealer has is that they should have the tool to cycle the ABS pump so as to assure old fluid is pushed out of the system. Otherwise, yes, the tradition of starting the farthest away holds true. A good DOT4 fluid would be minimum for track use. Lots of brands/preferences, but of course, the higher the boiling points (dry and wet) the better off you will be in a track environment.

IIRC the manual says to only use DOT 3, and that DOT 4/5 can damage the brake system. Is that only because DOT 4/5 are more hygroscopic and they're covering their bases if people are lazy and go too long without changing it?

 

[Hollywoo0220]

IIRC the manual says to only use DOT 3, and that DOT 4/5 can damage the brake system. Is that only because DOT 4/5 are more hygroscopic and they're covering their bases if people are lazy and go too long without changing it?

Yes & No @hobby-man
As long as you change out the DOT4 more frequently things will be fine. For the typical user DOT3 / for someone tracking then DOT4, but changing at increased intervals.

 

[rmb9797]

@ems657
Yes, you are correct in your first thought.
Lift the back end
Begin with the passenger Rear then driver side
Same thing for the front

You can use DOT4 for increased heat tolerance, you will just need to change that more frequently than DOT3; as it will absorb more condensation.

Any more detail feel free to ask...

This is incorrect, the factory service manual lists the bleeding sequence as follows...
Front Driver
Front Passenger
Rear Passenger
Rear Driver
ie start at front driver and go clockwise.

It also states that after bleeding you should apply and release the parking break 5 times then re-bleed the rear brakes as air can get trapped in the electronic parking brake lines.

 

[ems657]

Thank you all for the excellent info. On the front, there are 2 bleeding valves on each of the Brembo calipers. Do we start from the inside or outside?

Back to the sequence, I also recall my 2012 Odyssey having a similar order to rmb9797's comment. I think I will give it a try this time.

Thank you again,

 

[racer]

IIRC the manual says to only use DOT 3, and that DOT 4/5 can damage the brake system. Is that only because DOT 4/5 are more hygroscopic and they're covering their bases if people are lazy and go too long without changing it?

Difference between DOT 3 and 4 is their BOILING point. Since you are going to a track event, you want a higher boiling point (both wet and dry boiling points are important here). https://blog.amsoil.com/dot-3-and-dot-4-brake-fluid-whats-the-difference/

DOT 5 is silicone based. You would have to flush the entire system and even possibly replace components as it is NOT compatible with Dot 3/ Dot4 fluid. DOT 5 also has greater compressibility. It does, however, resist moisture and its use in "little used, stored long" type cars is often preferred.

 

[baldheadracing]

Difference between DOT 3 and 4 is their BOILING point. Since you are going to a track event, you want a higher boiling point (both wet and dry boiling points are important here). https://blog.amsoil.com/dot-3-and-dot-4-brake-fluid-whats-the-difference/

DOT 5.1 is silicone based. You would have to flush the entire system and even possibly replace components as it is NOT compatible with Dot 3/ Dot4 fluid. DOT 5.1 also has greater compressibility. It does, however, resist moisture and its use in "little used, stored long" type cars is often preferred.

Wrong. DoT5 is Silicone-based, and has the characteristics that you have listed.

DoT5.1 is not Silicone-based, and is compatible with DoT3/4.

 

[racer]

Wrong. DoT5 is Silicone-based, and has the characteristics that you have listed.

DoT5.1 is not Silicone-based, and is compatible with DoT3/4.

Correct.. not sure why I added the .1. whoops!

 

[baldheadracing]

Correct.. not sure why I added the .1. whoops!

I was wondering ... please edit your original post, and then we can delete the follow-up posts .

 

[Number 215]

This is incorrect, the factory service manual lists the bleeding sequence as follows...
Front Driver
Front Passenger
Rear Passenger
Rear Driver
ie start at front driver and go clockwise.

It also states that after bleeding you should apply and release the parking break 5 times then re-bleed the rear brakes as air can get trapped in the electronic parking brake lines.

This is incorrect, the factory service manual lists the bleeding sequence as follows...
Front Driver
Front Passenger
Rear Passenger
Rear Driver
ie start at front driver and go clockwise.

It also states that after bleeding you should apply and release the parking break 5 times then re-bleed the rear brakes as air can get trapped in the electronic parking brake lines.

Can anyone confirm this order please ?
I ask because the poster has an Si, not a Type R.

 

[ems657]

I actually did the brake bleed myself about 2 months ago (driver front, passenger front, passenger rear, and driver rear) (2018 type R, 10K miles at that time)

I used the Motive bleeder and retrofit with a Honda brake fluid cap. It worked really well. The brake pedal feels tight and did really well on both street and track (1 event). By the way I used Motul 600.

As for the front calipers, I flushed the inner valve first.

Honestly I am not sure if this sequence is correct, but this is my best bet through my research. Please chime in if you know something different

Michael

 

[SBPerformance]

Per Honda (Source: ShopkeyPro)

Bleeding Sequence:
Front drivers side (outside bleeder then inside bleeder)
Front passengers side (outside bleeder then inside bleeder)
Rear passenger side
Rear driver side

Apply and release the parking brake 5 times then bleed the rear brakes again (Note: When bleeding the brake system, air can get trapped inside the rear calipers. This is due to the complex fluid path inside electric parking brake calipers. Therefor, this procedure is necessary)

Front Bleeder Torque Spec: 14 lb-ft
Rear Bleeder Torque spec: 17 lb-ft

 

[ez12a]

I used the Motive bleeder and retrofit with a Honda brake fluid cap. It worked really well. The brake pedal feels tight and did really well on both street and track (1 event). By the way I used Motul 600.

Do you have a P/N for the cap you use? i have a motive bleeder with the "universal" cap (supposedly for honda fitment) that is pretty difficult to get a proper seal. Doable, but I could be spending 30 min trying to get a seal.

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