Bought Ktuner, loaded a basemap, considering custom tune...

[murphyjim]

The only problem is that it is like a 30 second 10 step Mortal Kombat finishing move style sequence of button clicks to fully disable the VSA. I think Ktuner and Hondata both have a way to make the disabling of the VSA a one button solution, not sure though.

Well that was not what I thought. Turned off both in the factory map. Then tested, no improvement. Turned off via button on dash as well, same result. Back to factory. Maybe I got a lemon? Newer version of the ECU?

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[murphyjim]

The only problem is that it is like a 30 second 10 step Mortal Kombat finishing move style sequence of button clicks to fully disable the VSA. I think Ktuner and Hondata both have a way to make the disabling of the VSA a one button solution, not sure though.

OK, but how did you get it done? Custom tune?

 

[cmwalton16]

I see VSA traction control at the bottom and U1022 VSA above in that section? Which one or both? Sorry, I'm in the car and will research later.

Just VSA traction control. The u one will kill a dash light if there is one afterwards.

 

[murphyjim]

Just VSA traction control. The u one will kill a dash light if there is one afterwards.

So the U1022 is just to turn off the light when traction control is actually off? I guess I can see why that would be nice. But if the U one is just for cosmetic reasons, then I've already done it with the VSA off at the bottom. It must me more complex than this because it literally did nothing in terms of a fast take off from stop. I'd better check that ECU model number. Never even gave it a thought. My car might be different.

 

[cmwalton16]

So the U1022 is just to turn off the light when traction control is actually off? I guess I can see why that would be nice. But if the U one is just for cosmetic reasons, then I've already done it with the VSA off at the bottom. It must me more complex than this because it literally did nothing in terms of a fast take off from stop. I'd better check that ECU model number. Never even gave it a thought. My car might be different.

I haven't tried it with it off yet so I can't really comment on any differences.

 

[murphyjim]

The only problem is that it is like a 30 second 10 step Mortal Kombat finishing move style sequence of button clicks to fully disable the VSA. I think Ktuner and Hondata both have a way to make the disabling of the VSA a one button solution, not sure though.

The only problem is that it is like a 30 second 10 step Mortal Kombat finishing move style sequence of button clicks to fully disable the VSA. I think Ktuner and Hondata both have a way to make the disabling of the VSA a one button solution, not sure though.

I must be in need of all the steps. Not much help just turning VSA off in the factory basemap. Didn't notice anything. I did have the U1022 turned off, guess I could refresh without that turned off and see if it helps.

 

[cmwalton16]

I must be in need of all the steps. Not much help just turning VSA off in the factory basemap. Didn't notice anything. I did have the U1022 turned off, guess I could refresh without that turned off and see if it helps.

The solution he mentions above is the VSA Traction Control toggle. That is used instead of having to do the button seq and keeps it permanently off, rather than having to disable at each startup.

All the U codes are ECU diag codes, like the catalyst efficiency one turns off a CEL if you install a catless downpipe. I wouldn't imagine you would need to check the box for the U code in this instance.

 

[murphyjim]

The solution he mentions above is the VSA Traction Control toggle. That is used instead of having to do the button seq and keeps it permanently off, rather than having to disable at each startup.

All the U codes are ECU diag codes, like the catalyst efficiency one turns off a CEL if you install a catless downpipe. I wouldn't imagine you would need to check the box for the U code in this instance.

I guess my test was a valid one then. Thanks!!!

 

[Quicksipper]

Well that was not what I thought. Turned off both in the factory map. Then tested, no improvement. Turned off via button on dash as well, same result. Back to factory. Maybe I got a lemon? Newer version of the ECU?

yeah the Vsa/TC won't really make a difference in normal driving, it helps to prevent wheel spin. I always turn them off for good measure unless the roads are slick. I'm still playing with the quick adjustments and I can tell what I'm experiencing isn't in the tune of the engine but more of the tune of the CVT, first gear seems to be set slow Intentially because CVTs don't like torque and it's subject to alot at its lowest gear ratio (think low gear on a bike) the belt will be spinning it's fastest in low gear, this is where CVTs are most succeptable to damage. I'm going to continue to roll into the throttle even on improved settings.

 

[cmwalton16]

yeah the Vsa/TC won't really make a difference in normal driving, it helps to prevent wheel spin. I always turn them off for good measure unless the roads are slick. I'm still playing with the quick adjustments and I can tell what I'm experiencing isn't in the tune of the engine but more of the tune of the CVT, first gear seems to be set slow Intentially because CVTs don't like torque and it's subject to alot at its lowest gear ratio (think low gear on a bike) the belt will be spinning it's fastest in low gear, this is where CVTs are most succeptable to damage. I'm going to continue to roll into the throttle even on improved settings.

Are you guys using S mode or D? S does help a little too...

 

[murphyjim]

OK, well that makes good sense to me

Just VSA traction control. The u one will kill a dash light if there is one afterwards.

Hmm. Tried that and didn't get the great result you got.

 

[murphyjim]

Are you guys using S mode or D? S does help a little too...

Tried both. Agree. I basically am driving a "two speed manual". LOL.

 

[UberCivic]

http://www.civicx.com/threads/so-im...-disengage-traction-control.7358/#post-131174

This is the full sequence to disable traction control that I was talking about. For me on the gravel covered paved road that I drive on it makes it burn rubber at launch as the power comes on much quicker. There is still an extra shove in the back as full boost kicks in, but the launch is vastly improved. I don't yet have a tuner so I am not sure if this still applies to your situation.

 

[Quicksipper]

Are you guys using S mode or D? S does help a little too...

I don't care for S mode, it really brings out the worst in the CVT with its jerkiness. I bought the Ktuner so I could stay out of S keep in D and it has helped alot. also I feel silly switching from drive to S with my Wife in the car lol, she makes fun of me because I act like it's a manual. ALSO I'm still unsure of switching to S while pressing the accelerator, everyone says it's fine but the manual specifically says doing so could damage the transmission on the 16 CVT sedan.

 

[d1zguy]

Learning that sweet spot on the throttle will help you more than anything. The starter 21 with everything on Improved/Aggressive II definitely helps, but doesn't fix it. Try rolling into it, instead of mashing it off the line. If I really want to launch I brake hold to between 2-3k which builds about 7psi and then take off

I believe this is because of the torque converter. If you roll into it from a stop the torque converter is engaged multiplying torque. That sweet spot you're talking about is when the Torque Converter is doing it's job. If you mash it the logic in the ECU might be locking it early it giving you torque losses of the line.

Ideally you would want just enough power from the engine for a quick take off and then mash when the torque converter locks preferable just past mid-range. Who knows this may be tunable via the ECU as I believe it's electronically locked.

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