Boost gone after 6500RPM

[mangelol]

Hey,

So the last month or so whenever I floor it and reach 6500RPM, my car will just stop boosting. I then have no boost whatsoever until I turn the engine off and start it again. After that the car is boosting as normal, until I hit 6500RPM again on full throttle. It started happening around the same time it started getting below 0c temps outside. Could or could not be related, it doesnt matter if its -10c or +5c it happens anyway.

My car has been Stage 1 tuned by JRM in Sweden making 373hp and 505Nm.
Mods are a catback exhaust and k&n panel filter.

To clarify: I do not have any check engine light or any errors popping up whatsoever.

Appreciate any help or suggestions what could be the problem!

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[dellyjoughnut]

What's your fuel cut-off rpm?

 

[mangelol]

What's your fuel cut-off rpm?

I used to be able to reach 7000RPM, no problem. I can still reach 7000 if I do it in 2nd or 3rd gear but after I change gear I have no boost.

 

[MadMage]

What's JRM say? Have you send them logs?

 

[mangelol]

What's JRM say? Have you send them logs?

I had a email conversation with them, they asked me to test and check a couple things and asked me follow up questions. Until one day they stopped responding to me. I unfortunately have no way of creating logs I think? As I dont use a hondata or anything for the software.

also I don’t think I trust them looking at my car if they can’t answer a simple email… it feels like they know they did something wrong with the tune and refuse to take responsibility

i even gave them my phone number and asked them to call me, which they never did

 

[Hatchi]

I unfortunately have no way of creating logs I think? As I dont use a hondata or anything for the software.

So you got the car tuned but the shop used their equipment to do it? Also if your car is actually making 373hp with just those two mods, something doesn't quite seem right. The fuel in Sweden may be a higher grade, but those numbers are really high at least here in the states even for cars with more major mods, like a downpipe.

Regardless, if you got the car tuned, would have definitely suggested buying you own hondata flashpro to have the shop use. The logs are worth their weight in gold, and it's how the shop was able to tune it in the first place, using the data logging from it (unless they used a ktuner).

There's going to be no real way to know exactly what's happening to your car without having a hold on data either live, or recorded. I'd reach out to the shop and see if they'll let you do a quick drive, make it happen, and let them give you the datalog or look it over yourself. (again all assuming they used hondata in the first place)

 

[mangelol]

So you got the car tuned but the shop used their equipment to do it? Also if your car is actually making 373hp with just those two mods, something doesn't quite seem right. The fuel in Sweden may be a higher grade, but those numbers are really high at least here in the states even for cars with more major mods, like a downpipe.

Regardless, if you got the car tuned, would have definitely suggested buying you own hondata flashpro to have the shop use. The logs are worth their weight in gold, and it's how the shop was able to tune it in the first place, using the data logging from it (unless they used a ktuner).

There's going to be no real way to know exactly what's happening to your car without having a hold on data either live, or recorded. I'd reach out to the shop and see if they'll let you do a quick drive, make it happen, and let them give you the datalog or look it over yourself. (again all assuming they used hondata in the first place)

Yeah exactly they used their own equipment

yeah well idk about the correct figures but they rate their stage 1 to 360-380, and my dyno papers say 373

I’m gonna clean my air filter since its due a clean anyway and also clean the MAF while I’m at it. Idk about this car but my previous car which was a non-honda, sometimes cleaning the MAF could solve a lot of issues…

if that doesn’t solve it I guess I’m gonna call JRM and have them look at it, and buy a hondata in the future

if they give it 1 rip on the dyno they should be able to figure out whats wrong

 

[Hatchi]

Yeah exactly they used their own equipment

yeah well idk about the correct figures but they rate their stage 1 to 360-380, and my dyno papers say 373

I’m gonna clean my air filter since its due a clean anyway and also clean the MAF while I’m at it. Idk about this car but my previous car which was a non-honda, sometimes cleaning the MAF could solve a lot of issues…

if that doesn’t solve it I guess I’m gonna call JRM and have them look at it, and buy a hondata in the future

if they give it 1 rip on the dyno they should be able to figure out whats wrong

Power is power, I'm sure it feels a lot better than stock . I'm just saying make sure you trust those guys at the shop, dyno values can be adjusted via a "scale". And make sure you don't pay them anything more since it's their tune that's causing the problem.

 

[Shred]

So you got the car tuned but the shop used their equipment to do it? Also if your car is actually making 373hp with just those two mods, something doesn't quite seem right. The fuel in Sweden may be a higher grade, but those numbers are really high at least here in the states even for cars with more major mods, like a downpipe.

370-380 would be about right for a FBO car. Phearable's canned tuned even gets 370 without the DP and on 91, see here: https://www.phearable.net/tuning-software/civic-type-r-fk8/phearablestage2ctrhondata.html

The Euro spec FK8s come from the factory at a 320 HP rating already too, so an extra ~50 HP might be doable. I wonder if the wastegate is stuck open for some reason.

 

[mangelol]

370-380 would be about right for a FBO car. Phearable's canned tuned even gets 370 without the DP and on 91, see here: https://www.phearable.net/tuning-software/civic-type-r-fk8/phearablestage2ctrhondata.html

The Euro spec FK8s come from the factory at a 320 HP rating already too, so an extra ~50 HP might be doable. I wonder if the wastegate is stuck open for some reason.

wouldn't the waste gate stuck open throw a CEL tho? my last car had a faulty wastegate, had same symptoms as with this car while giving full throttle, but the CEL came on and it threw a code.

 

[Shred]

wouldn't the waste gate stuck open throw a CEL tho? my last car had a faulty wastegate, had same symptoms as with this car while giving full throttle, but the CEL came on and it threw a code.

Yes but you are tuned now, so CELs can be turned off. Also was it stuck open causing the CEL or vice versa? A friend of mine had a CEL that caused his wastegate to remain open so that he would not get boost until the issue was fixed.

 

[mangelol]

Yes but you are tuned now, so CELs can be turned off. Also was it stuck open causing the CEL or vice versa? A friend of mine had a CEL that caused his wastegate to remain open so that he would not get boost until the issue was fixed.

On my old car the wastegate was a replacement and had been set up incorrectly causing overboost which triggered the CEL

 

[mangelol]

I am hoping its just that my air filter is very dirty causing insufficient air to the engine. In early december the roads were salted like crazy and I went on 2.5 hour drive, the entire front end of my car was covered in dirt. Probably got a lot of dirt into the filter aswell

my filter was brand new when the car was tuned

 

[Hatchi]

370-380 would be about right for a FBO car. Phearable's canned tuned even gets 370 without the DP and on 91, see here: https://www.phearable.net/tuning-software/civic-type-r-fk8/phearablestage2ctrhondata.html

The Euro spec FK8s come from the factory at a 320 HP rating already too, so an extra ~50 HP might be doable. I wonder if the wastegate is stuck open for some reason.

Euro cars only get that rating from the better fuel, lowest places have I'm told is 95 ron, and that's the equivalent of 91 octane in the US. 373 might be possible, but he's not FBO, still the stock airbox too, just a K&N filter. Exhausts don't help the car breathe until much higher power, and the downpipe would need to be larger as well to accommodate. These cars it's widely known the quickest sources of power are either flex fuel (higher octane for the ol boost) or a larger downpipe with a higher flowing cat. You'd most definitely see something like this (from the link you sent)

" Test Results On A Stock Vehicle With Only Phearable Stage 2 Tune: 353 HP 363 TQ on 93 octane "

The higher octane over there could potentially bump it up to higher, but you'd be making that power from some slight timing changes and more boost probably (still new to this so perhaps not 100% sure).

As for this issue, still can't be sure. I don't think it would be a wastegate thing unless your car peaks boost pressure at 6500rpm. Not sure what the shop did to your car.

Keeping air filters clean is important, but I don't think they can get that dirty to choke a turbo.

 

[mangelol]

Euro cars only get that rating from the better fuel, lowest places have I'm told is 95 ron, and that's the equivalent of 91 octane in the US. 373 might be possible, but he's not FBO, still the stock airbox too, just a K&N filter. Exhausts don't help the car breathe until much higher power, and the downpipe would need to be larger as well to accommodate. These cars it's widely known the quickest sources of power are either flex fuel (higher octane for the ol boost) or a larger downpipe with a higher flowing cat. You'd most definitely see something like this (from the link you sent)

" Test Results On A Stock Vehicle With Only Phearable Stage 2 Tune: 353 HP 363 TQ on 93 octane "

The higher octane over there could potentially bump it up to higher, but you'd be making that power from some slight timing changes and more boost probably (still new to this so perhaps not 100% sure).

As for this issue, still can't be sure. I don't think it would be a wastegate thing unless your car peaks boost pressure at 6500rpm. Not sure what the shop did to your car.

Keeping air filters clean is important, but I don't think they can get that dirty to choke a turbo.

I made a video of a pull in 4th from 4k to 6.4k rpm, starts at 1.7 bar then falls to 1.5 bar at 6.4k rpm. Then in the video I lose all boost.

edit: traction control off because JRM asked me to try turning it off…