Si BEST mpg settings w/ TSP or MAPerformance

consensual_induction

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or can I like...disable the turbocharger on the stock map?

idk how some ppl claim 49.freaking9 mpg, I know i drive like a goon accel decel accel decel wheee......but i cant break 35. yes Im aware of 5th and 6th gear

lmk!
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86salmon

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Lots of variables

I can get 32-35 in town taking it easy if it's flat. In town with hills and I'm getting 18-22

Highway with hills doing 78 I get 38, flat and I'm getting 40-44

All on TSP stage 1 map 3

Driver mod will make the biggest difference. Don't get on it all the time, short shift, keep it around 2k rpms, etc
 

EkSean

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I just keep it out of boost around town, rarely see 1psi and I’m at about 28mpg in town. I shift around 3k and just don’t go over 0psi. I’ll get around 42mpg on the highway at 72mph on cruise. All on map 3 with tsp btw.

I got all the flooring it everywhere out of my system for now, I was averaging 14mpg in town.
 
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consensual_induction

consensual_induction

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Ok sounds like it’s down to right foot tune haha.

I’ve never actually tried driving not in sport mode now that I think about it.

Still 49mpg, that’s gotta be like turbo disabled.

I’ll report back with better driving and non sport.

Still ain’t outta my system though haha. Might not be ever :O
 

Micah

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Map 3 all day. Normal on highway, sport around local roads. Better to go full throttle for a moment than just a little boost for a long while.

Honda Civic 10th gen BEST mpg settings w/ TSP or MAPerformance 20190828_074217


I don't look at boost often. I look at IAT and knock control. Unless I need to move out, I usually shift around 2000rpm give or take.
 


EkSean

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Map 3 all day. Normal on highway, sport around local roads. Better to go full throttle for a moment than just a little boost for a long while.

20190828_074217.jpg


I don't look at boost often. I look at IAT and knock control. Unless I need to move out, I usually shift around 2000rpm give or take.
Damn you drive a lot haha but that’s some good ass mpg right there :headbang:
 

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It's possible to adjust certain parameters on the KTuner starter tunes to help with mpg's but the TSP tune is basically locked, so the only adjustment is your right foot.
 

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Map 3 all day. Normal on highway, sport around local roads. Better to go full throttle for a moment than just a little boost for a long while.

20190828_074217.jpg


I don't look at boost often. I look at IAT and knock control. Unless I need to move out, I usually shift around 2000rpm give or take.
Damn the only thing I really envy about the new SI. I can't do even half of it.
 

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By the time I get to the end of my commute I see an average of 45-52 mpg. NJ traffic is fun.

But the local around town driving, groceries, school, daycare, family errands, etc... I see between 23-35 mpg, again NJ.
 

charleswrivers

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Bring up your boost meter on your instrument panel and keep it in vacuum all the time. You'll get wonderful mileage and a dull drive. Run highest gear you safety can when you're just maintaining speed on level ground (i.e. I use around 4th at 25 MPH, 5th at 35 MPH, 6th at 40 MPH). Avoid brake usage by timing your stops and coasting where you can. That's a big one for in-town driving. I can easily crack 40 MPGs on my 50/50 city/highway 10 mile drive to and from work everyday if I play the hypermiling game. I can see reaching or exceeding 50 MPG if I was limited to around 55 MPH. Instantaneous MPGs holds around 60 MPG at low speeds (40-45 MPH) in 6th gear.

If you can't control your foot... running the maps with the lower boost targets will get your marginally better economy because you'll burn a little less fuel under WOT...but you likely won't break out of the 30s. I get 34 +/- 1 over a tank like clockwork from mostly city driving with a lot of short trips (<5 miles) doing a lot of WOT and am always on the hottest map (the 24.5# map is my map 1). I can get 40-42 on the interstate, running 80 MPH at 3000 RPM still holding it in a vacuum. I do find I can squeeze a bit more in highway MPGs using my foot than the cruise as I'll allow my speed to vary a little with grade changes and as speed needs to change with the traffic. I can't recall ever getting a tank average that was over 45 MPGs though. I hold too high a speed w/the AC on to get really good MPGs for straight highway driving. The CVT-equipped cars should do a little bit better as I think their final ratios are a bit higher.

(EDIT) So far as making boost adjustments... TSP, as was mentioned, is locked. On older cars with a mechanical wastegate... you could lower the boost as low as the wastegate spring allowed... which was generally 'safety boost', but would still be some amount of boost. For the electronic wastegate under boost… I'm not sure how far you can go to shooting for no boost. Assuming you could get it to make no boost... you could, again, improve WOT marginally over setting with boost. It would have virtually no impact on your economy when you're still running in a vacuum... which is where you'd be most of time anyways if you were shooting for economical driving. You'd also make the car a 3000 lb, 100 whp gutless thing that could be dangerous if you needed the power to do thing like merge and it wasn't there. Stock NA L15 engines with VTEC that are on Fits only rated to around 130 HP as memory serves. Our engine's, with no VTEC and a head made for turbocharging and to tumble right for DI would probably breathe far worse if you tried to get it to play the NA game. Even just a few pounds of boost makes a pretty substantial difference. The more boost you, run, the more diminishing returns you get for power.
 
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Micah

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Bring up your boost meter on your instrument panel and keep it in vacuum all the time. You'll get wonderful mileage and a dull drive. Run highest gear you safety can when you're just maintaining speed on level ground (i.e. I use around 4th at 25 MPH, 5th at 35 MPH, 6th at 40 MPH). Avoid brake usage by timing your stops and coasting where you can. That's a big one for in-town driving. I can easily crack 40 MPGs on my 50/50 city/highway 10 mile drive to and from work everyday if I play the hypermiling game. I can see reaching or exceeding 50 MPG if I was limited to around 55 MPH. Instantaneous MPGs holds around 60 MPG at low speeds (40-45 MPH) in 6th gear.

If you can't control your foot... running the maps with the lower boost targets will get your marginally better economy because you'll burn a little less fuel under WOT...but you likely won't break out of the 30s. I get 34 +/- 1 over a tank like clockwork from mostly city driving with a lot of short trips (<5 miles) doing a lot of WOT and am always on the hottest map (the 24.5# map is my map 1). I can get 40-42 on the interstate, running 80 MPH at 3000 RPM still holding it in a vacuum. I do find I can squeeze a bit more in highway MPGs using my foot than the cruise as I'll allow my speed to vary a little with grade changes and as speed needs to change with the traffic. I can't recall ever getting a tank average that was over 45 MPGs though. I hold too high a speed w/the AC on to get really good MPGs for straight highway driving. The CVT-equipped cars should do a little bit better as I think their final ratios are a bit higher.
Yep I agree with most of that. I shift at 2k as a habit. Been doing it for over a decade with lots of different cars. When I want speed I can downshift and punch it. My AC is always set to 68 and my heated seat is almost always on, even in the summer.

Cruise control wastes gas if you have hypermilers habits. It is good for average drivers I guess. I prefer to watch traffic and use hills intelligently to build or scrub momentum. Over 30k miles and my brake pads are at 30% and tires are still pretty good. I drive it easy until I drive it hard.

There is an old saying/question of "Would you rather drive a slow car fast or a fast car slow?". Most would say there is no definite right or wrong answer but....

Drive a slow car fast and you risk overwhelmed parts and increased maintenance frequency. Plus the car has nothing extra to give when a situation calls for it.

Driving a fast car slow results in the opposite, which I find highly preferable. Good fuel economy, long OCI, less frequent maintenance required, and a good amount of reserved capability to draw upon when desired.

$0.02
 

charleswrivers

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OP... if you go to Ecomodder and lurk... you can read about hypermiling until your eyes bleed. Honestly... I'm not surprised that people are able to reach upwards of 50 MPG on these cars, even with a tune. Without touching boost, you'd actually improve MPGs from timing advance, as you'd be improving thermal efficiency of the engine. The higher compression engines are, by default, engines that are *slightly* more efficient. The higher ratio of those cars that have them help. There are people over there that place an emphasis on driving style... tire selection... gearing changes... aero- mods... etc.

It takes a dedicated driving style to do so... and that style is just incompatible with 'sporty driving'. The driver is going to have, by far, the largest impact on MPGs.

Pretty sure Top Gear demoed a Prius vs a inline 6 BMW around a track to show the BMW was faster and more fuel efficient than the Prius around their track. The BMW was just poking along... maintaining momentum. The Prius was being driven at 10/10ths. You can make anything fuel inefficient, if you try.
 
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consensual_induction

consensual_induction

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OP... if you go to Ecomodder and lurk... you can read about hypermiling until your eyes bleed. Honestly... I'm not surprised that people are able to reach upwards of 50 MPG on these cars, even with a tune. Without touching boost, you'd actually improve MPGs from timing advance, as you'd be improving thermal efficiency of the engine. The higher compression engines are, by default, engines that are *slightly* more efficient. The higher ratio of those cars that have them help. There are people over there that place an emphasis on driving style... tire selection... gearing changes... aero- mods... etc.

It takes a dedicated driving style to do so... and that style is just incompatible with 'sporty driving'. The driver is going to have, by far, the largest impact on MPGs.

Pretty sure Top Gear demoed a Prius vs a inline 6 BMW around a track to show the BMW was faster and more fuel efficient than the Prius around their track. The BMW was just poking along... maintaining momentum. The Prius was being driven at 10/10ths. You can make anything fuel inefficient, if you try.
Did this (and other commenters insight applied as well) and was able to do an hour long on the highway and get 48 on tsp3.

-I never used brakes unless totally necessary
-stayed in a slipstream behind suv or trucks as often as possible
-stayed in vacuum with ktuner display psi as reference
-windows up no aircon
-took woofers out of trunk lol
-no sport mode
-no cruise
-no throttle on hills

Then off the highway reset the mpg gauge and drove like a maniac! Still got 16! My evo got 7mpg city lol when I drove like that.

I love this car, and with maperformance tune it feels faster than stock sti. I. Love. This. Car.
 

AdamSI

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Did this (and other commenters insight applied as well) and was able to do an hour long on the highway and get 48 on tsp3.

-I never used brakes unless totally necessary
-stayed in a slipstream behind suv or trucks as often as possible
-stayed in vacuum with ktuner display psi as reference
-windows up no aircon
-took woofers out of trunk lol
-no sport mode
-no cruise
-no throttle on hills

Then off the highway reset the mpg gauge and drove like a maniac! Still got 16! My evo got 7mpg city lol when I drove like that.

I love this car, and with maperformance tune it feels faster than stock sti. I. Love. This. Car.
i use MAP stage 1 and love it. the torque comes in around 3,500rpm and i usually shift lower than that daily driving so its great on the clutch. i get around 37 to 40 mpg
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