Battery issues

[misslibrarian]

I have a 2017 Honda Civic EX-T coupe. I'm on my third battery currently and something is draining my battery. I bought this battery last year (April 9th, 2023) and so it hasn't even been a year yet, so I don't think the battery should be dead. We jumped it and it's starting and running, but when I turned it off this time, all of the lights went out immediately. Usually, the interior lights are supposed to come on for a little bit when you shut off the car and I have my exterior lights set to stay on until I get out and shut the door, so both sets of lights turning off with the car is not normal. I couldn't turn on the interior lights. When I opened the door, the interior lights came on, so I closed the door again and tested it and they worked.

I figure something has to be wrong with the car that it's needlessly draining batteries. I know I can test for a parasitic drain but would it be a good idea to take it to an independent mechanic? Would they know how to fix it? I live alone and this is my daily driver (I work 5 days a week but my commutes are only 5 miles/15 minutes each way). I also have no aftermarket parts installed other than a grille and aftermarket foglights and headlights (which I don't *think* would make a difference).

Thanks!

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[GermanCivic]

What's the capacity (ampere hour / amp hour / Ah) of the battery you bought in April 2023?
The battery should be as powerful as the original one.

 

[misslibrarian]

What's the capacity (ampere hour / amp hour / Ah) of the battery you bought in April 2023?
The battery should be as powerful as the original one.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...pacity-maximum-starting-power-51r-2/2130008-P

This is the battery that I bought. Sorry, I'm kind of a rookie at these things. 🥹

 

[Montana Miner]

I have a 2017 Honda Civic EX-T coupe. I'm on my third battery currently and something is draining my battery. I bought this battery last year (April 9th, 2023) and so it hasn't even been a year yet, so I don't think the battery should be dead. We jumped it and it's starting and running, but when I turned it off this time, all of the lights went out immediately. Usually, the interior lights are supposed to come on for a little bit when you shut off the car and I have my exterior lights set to stay on until I get out and shut the door, so both sets of lights turning off with the car is not normal. I couldn't turn on the interior lights. When I opened the door, the interior lights came on, so I closed the door again and tested it and they worked.

I figure something has to be wrong with the car that it's needlessly draining batteries. I know I can test for a parasitic drain but would it be a good idea to take it to an independent mechanic? Would they know how to fix it? I live alone and this is my daily driver (I work 5 days a week but my commutes are only 5 miles/15 minutes each way). I also have no aftermarket parts installed other than a grille and aftermarket foglights and headlights (which I don't *think* would make a difference).

Thanks!

here is where to begin

 

[shoegazer]

This sounds more like an intermittent electrical issue rather than a dead battery, IMO. But my thoughts are to test the battery and charging system to rule them out. Check for loose cable connections and rodent damage (since it's Winter). Speaking of... it's been cold the past few days. If there were some previous mods that a previous owner returned to stock in a hurry; they may be something to explore (cheap splices coming loose, electrical tape drying out, etc).

If the aftermarket fogs are 'tapped' or 'spliced' into another light circuit; I'd disconnect them and see what happens. And, of course, it could always be a BCM (body control module) issue.

In my experience... Honda won't even try to diagnose an electrical issue while aftermarket electric stuff is installed/connected.

 

[misslibrarian]

Okay, so I took it to an auto parts store to do a free bat and alternator test and both came out fine. Car starts fine.

I went to a drive thru and I guess coincidentally, I was straightening my wheels and I heard a loud popping sound and all of my electronics had turned off (car was still running) and then came back on again.

So I guess I can assume it's an electrical issue and not a battery issue? I'm going to try taking it to a JDM specific mechanic because my warranty expired 6 days ago and I don't really like the Honda dealership.

 

[GermanCivic]

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...pacity-maximum-starting-power-51r-2/2130008-P

This is the battery that I bought. Sorry, I'm kind of a rookie at these things. 🥹

I can't find anything about amp hours on this site. The original battery on my car has 450 Ampere and 60 Amp hours.

So I guess I can assume it's an electrical issue and not a battery issue? I'm going to try taking it to a JDM specific mechanic because my warranty expired 6 days ago and I don't really like the Honda dealership.

I think that's a good idea

 

[latole]

I also have no aftermarket parts installed other than a grille and aftermarket foglights and headlights (which I don't *think* would make a difference).

" I also have no aftermarket parts installed other ........ foglights and headlights (which I don't *think* would make a difference ) "

You could be wrong
- Check these wire for a short circuit , intermittent or not

 

[shoegazer]

/// I heard a loud popping sound and all of my electronics had turned off (car was still running) and then came back on again. ///

If the 'pop' was kinda' like when you plug in a high-draw electric thing into the wall; I'd be a little concerned.

Just thinking out loud and based on previous posts...

I'm wondering if there's a power wire for a previously installed sub that someone didn't terminate properly. That... or the fogs are powered off of the parking lights. Straightening the front wheels and getting the zap sounds like an energized wire touching metal. That should blow a fuse, though. Maybe have whoever you hire make sure all fuses are the correct value and nothing is wired without a fuse.

Good luck with it. And please update once you get it sorted.

 

[KensBlueGenX]

I know I can test for a parasitic drain

Checking the parasitic loss is indeed the place to start. Should be somewhere around 40-50ma.

I struggled finding one of these for a while, turned out the hood open switch was defective and the BCM stays up and running then. (To watch for when the hood is closed.) That one had an ongoing drain of about 210ma.

Not saying that’s your issue, but it’s something to consider.

Also be aware, because of that switch, to check parasitic loss with the hood open, you have to bypass the switch and wait a couple of min. for the BCM to shut down.

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