b2point0h's track build & fast lap videos

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b2point0h

b2point0h

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I'm guessing you frequently take the bumper off? Why is that?
Just makes taking bumper off a bit easier so I can get to the splitter on track if needed.
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b2point0h

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Went out to Buttonwillow CW13 for Round 5 of Honda Time Attack challenge with a very specific goal in mind. Go faster than previous PB of 1:57.924. The only difference in car setup this time was the tires, old PB was on 265/35 RE71Rs vs 275/35 Falken RT660.

I hit that goal in Session 2. Temps were perfect around 70F, car and tires weren't overheated yet so conditions were ideal. Car performed flawlessly as usual. After reviewing data and video, I believe the optimal time of 1:56.2 is possible with a few adjustments to line and braking zones.

Enjoy the video! I'll post the recap video soon.

 


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b2point0h

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I presume you needed the rear camber arms and toe arms to reach that? Thank you!
While I am running rear camber and toe arms, I don’t think they’re needed to reach these specs. This is just lowered on Swift springs and removed front guide pins.
 

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While I am running rear camber and toe arms, I don’t think they’re needed to reach these specs. This is just lowered on Swift springs and removed front guide pins.
Those specs are odd to me as I have -1.9 front camber L&R with only guidepins pulled and set to max negative.

I would have assumed you would have more negative camber than that on the lowering springs...unless you adjusted it to be less negative?!

In any event, I'm glad to see how capable the car is with such minimal negative camber up front!
 

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Those specs are odd to me as I have -1.9 front camber L&R with only guidepins pulled and set to max negative.

I would have assumed you would have more negative camber than that on the lowering springs...unless you adjusted it to be less negative?!

In any event, I'm glad to see how capable the car is with such minimal negative camber up front!
Im lowered and I still have pretty minimal camber up front. I think a degree if that, but I cant say for certain, I tossed my sheet.

Once my ball joints go in, im going to max that bitch out tho.
 
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Those specs are odd to me as I have -1.9 front camber L&R with only guidepins pulled and set to max negative.

I would have assumed you would have more negative camber than that on the lowering springs...unless you adjusted it to be less negative?!

In any event, I'm glad to see how capable the car is with such minimal negative camber up front!
Thanks! Yes this is the max camber allowed on springs and pins removed. Wish I could get more, but dont want to change ball joints or add coilovers, yet.

Im lowered and I still have pretty minimal camber up front. I think a degree if that, but I cant say for certain, I tossed my sheet.

Once my ball joints go in, im going to max that bitch out tho.
You'll likely get -3 or more camber up front with the ball joints.
 


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Thanks! Yes this is the max camber allowed on springs and pins removed. Wish I could get more, but dont want to change ball joints or add coilovers, yet.



You'll likely get -3 or more camber up front with the ball joints.
thats about what I was expecting, cant wait.
 

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thats about what I was expecting, cant wait.
I was neg 1.5 Left and 1.8 right with the pins pulled on stock springs. Hardrace ball joints in the middle position got me exactly neg 2.5 Left and neg 2.8 right side. Didn't want to go the neg 3.5 as I don't use A052s with their softer sidewall. Likely neg 3 is ideal but can't get there easily.
 

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Thanks! Yes this is the max camber allowed on springs and pins removed. Wish I could get more, but dont want to change ball joints or add coilovers, yet.



You'll likely get -3 or more camber up front with the ball joints.
Is there a reason you are holding off on the camber ball joints? I am considering picking up the EVS ones but am unsure is there are any negative effects.
 
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Is there a reason you are holding off on the camber ball joints? I am considering picking up the EVS ones but am unsure is there are any negative effects.
Wanted to keep OEM suspension geometry as close as possible, sans camber since its still street driven sometimes.
 

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Wanted to keep OEM suspension geometry as close as possible, sans camber since its still street driven sometimes.
When you say geometry, you mean the actual suspension stroke/motion and not alignment, correct?

I am trying to figure out in practice what the actual joints do before making a decision. In my best understanding they offset the mounting location of the ball joint to push the bottom part of the wheel/hub out. I am however still uncertain as to what this actually does to the suspension/geometry aside from just changing the alignment.

Your car and videos are awesome though! I am new to this platform, had the car about a month or so now. I should be hitting my first event at Buttonwillow on the 19th this month but will be getting out there somewhat consistently, maybe we can link up at one of these events and I can pick your brain.
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