Axxess AXDSPX-HN3 specs: bypass amp on 12 speaker audio of Sport Touring/Type R?
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MrStix
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@vblue42 I just watched the first part of your youtube video. I want to make sure I'm understanding this right.
Basically I want to make sure that all the signals are full range and the ability to set high/low/band pass is only if your amp doesn't support those options. I want to avoid another device that is setting its own crossover settings.
You mentioned "summing/grouping" for us with passive crossovers, but it shouldn't really be summing if it is full range to begin with. They should all be full range until you set your own crossovers, right?
So if you select the Front Left Midbass as the output for Ch 1 and don't set a crossover, then it's actually a full range signal? This is the only thing that would make sense, as its the factory amp that takes the stereo signal and applies its own crossover to send to the speakers, and since we are removing the amp, there should be no pre-applied crossover points meaning they're all full range signals.
You also mentioned that some of the speakers were out of phase. Again, if the phase "correction" is applied by the factory amp, and we take it out, this is no longer possible to be on the signal side. So the phase at that point would only be determined by the wiring, right? Meaning, the physical connection at the speaker is wired out of phase, since it would be impossible for the HN3 to be receiving an out of phase signal?
I'm using the 6 channel audiocontrol amp with a sub amp with passive component crossovers for the front and rear. So I would only want full range FL, FR, RL, RR, Sub, and Center output going to the audiocontrol inputs without any grouping/summing necessary. I am trying to avoid grouping any crossed signals as I believe it will always create a negative impact over simply getting the full range signal from the start.
Basically I want to make sure that all the signals are full range and the ability to set high/low/band pass is only if your amp doesn't support those options. I want to avoid another device that is setting its own crossover settings.
You mentioned "summing/grouping" for us with passive crossovers, but it shouldn't really be summing if it is full range to begin with. They should all be full range until you set your own crossovers, right?
So if you select the Front Left Midbass as the output for Ch 1 and don't set a crossover, then it's actually a full range signal? This is the only thing that would make sense, as its the factory amp that takes the stereo signal and applies its own crossover to send to the speakers, and since we are removing the amp, there should be no pre-applied crossover points meaning they're all full range signals.
You also mentioned that some of the speakers were out of phase. Again, if the phase "correction" is applied by the factory amp, and we take it out, this is no longer possible to be on the signal side. So the phase at that point would only be determined by the wiring, right? Meaning, the physical connection at the speaker is wired out of phase, since it would be impossible for the HN3 to be receiving an out of phase signal?
I'm using the 6 channel audiocontrol amp with a sub amp with passive component crossovers for the front and rear. So I would only want full range FL, FR, RL, RR, Sub, and Center output going to the audiocontrol inputs without any grouping/summing necessary. I am trying to avoid grouping any crossed signals as I believe it will always create a negative impact over simply getting the full range signal from the start.
slab42
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I am in the industry
Not talking about that one. You won't find any info on a maestro solution until there is one, that's how they do it. If you don't believe me, that's fine.
I know they are working on a solution, but I don't know how close they are to finalizing it since I have not spoken to them for a couple months.. I do know they are working on it though. I have been waiting for a year and a half, what is a little more lol
RBZIC
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So this bypasses the the amp on civic SI 2017 with any type of android radio or has to be a specific one ?
I didn't read the whole thread. Maybe that was answered already.
Thank you
slab42
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Nothing at the moment. Maestro is working on an interface to allow you to install an aftermarket stereo, but it's not a simple task as the factory stereo uses both spdif and analog audio, and also serves as the interface to change vehicle settings, hvac, etc. They have been working on the solution for a while, but idatalink does more than maestro, they also do remote start interfaces, which are a much larger part of their business, so sometimes the radio interface work takes a back seat.
RBZIC
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Ohh yeah its quite understandable from their point of view. But yeah the honda unit isn't very practical at least for me, especially that I am used to the android unit that I have in my Subaru.
slab42
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I shouldn't say nothing...there is a metra kit that is rather expensive, and replaces the factory radio and hvac. I am hesitant to try it tbh.
http://www.metraonline.com/part/99-7821B
http://www.metraonline.com/part/99-7821B
NkryptD0n3
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I hate to think I’m necro’ing a thread but this has been the best discussion I can find.
I thought about ripping out the amp, speakers & sub then starting over but seems I’d lose a ton going to a no-name android HU since I have an Si.
I know computers & high level networking, not car audio, so please forgive my ignorance. I think the Metra dash kit, this Axxess DSP bypass & a craptastic Android head unit is what I’d need. Is that right? Because that’s like $1500 and screw that noise. I’m just tired of the stupid ass, sluggish, 7” touch screen. I love my Si but this factory “premium” sound limitations is $!@&”!&@“
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Wow, this thread was a ride, thanks to all the contributors. Good information. I’d be keen to hear if the call echo issue was ever tracked down, or if anyone else had this working with no problems in a Civic ST or RS
MrStix
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The Metra dash kit allows you to pick a head unit of your choice and retain a/c controls. According to the link, you would need the AXSP-HN if you want to retain the factory amp.
As much as I’ve read, the amp is where many of the issues lie.
If you replace the HU, I would bypass/remove the amp unless you are trying to make use of the factory sub, center, and rear ambiance speakers if you have the hatch, which I would not.
Replacing the HU will give you your front, rear, and sub, which should be all you need for good sound.
It’s your choice, though.
CopperPeacock
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Just my .02 from someone who does this for a living, the Metra dash replacement kits don't have the strongest track record for reliability. I've seen countless touchscreen and button failures even within a short time (3-6 months) to the point we've stopped offering them for most cars if an option from PAC or ADS exists.
Also, if you have an amplified system, the part needed to retain it can't be purchased and as far as I can tell, isn't even in production.
The steering wheel controls are a PITA to keep and don't work as well as they should, only the ASWC-1 works for these cars and requires you to go to the clockspring plug to retain some buttons and after all that it's still a crapshoot. Currently ADS doesn't currently offer a MSW firmware for these cars.
The backup cam is it's own special brand of issues, when the factory HU is replaced the cam image defaults to the fisheye mode because that's the raw camera image, the normal looking mode can be used by grounding the BIT1 wire in the harness but that's extra complexity on top of it being a 6v system, AND without building a sweet little switchy boi jig you lose the ability to switch camera modes.
Without removing the factory amp from the signal chain the best you can do for sq to to fix the signal with a DSP but you're still not solving the original problem of the amp ruining the signal, just band-aiding it. As far as I know only one solution theoretically exists to remove it (AXDSPX-HN3) but good luck buying one.
Also, if you have an amplified system, the part needed to retain it can't be purchased and as far as I can tell, isn't even in production.
The steering wheel controls are a PITA to keep and don't work as well as they should, only the ASWC-1 works for these cars and requires you to go to the clockspring plug to retain some buttons and after all that it's still a crapshoot. Currently ADS doesn't currently offer a MSW firmware for these cars.
The backup cam is it's own special brand of issues, when the factory HU is replaced the cam image defaults to the fisheye mode because that's the raw camera image, the normal looking mode can be used by grounding the BIT1 wire in the harness but that's extra complexity on top of it being a 6v system, AND without building a sweet little switchy boi jig you lose the ability to switch camera modes.
This is 100% accurate, the amp handles almost everything in these cars and is the weak link in the signal chain. The main problem is it also handles the digital-to-analog conversions and mixes in the nav, bt, and other noises as well as backfeeds that info back to the CANBUS to control such goofy shit as the blower motor speed while the mic is active and muting in reverse.
Without removing the factory amp from the signal chain the best you can do for sq to to fix the signal with a DSP but you're still not solving the original problem of the amp ruining the signal, just band-aiding it. As far as I know only one solution theoretically exists to remove it (AXDSPX-HN3) but good luck buying one.
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