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Axxess AXDSPX-HN3 specs: bypass amp on 12 speaker audio of Sport Touring/Type R?

bernardos70

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Long time lurker, first time writer.

I was looking to see what metra had for our cars and I saw the aforementioned dsp with this list of features:

General Features:
  • Includes a DSP (Digital Signal Processor)
  • 31 Band graphic EQ
  • Bass Knob Included
  • 10 individually assignable outputs
  • Independent equalization on each of the 10 outputs
  • Independent high pass, low pass, and bandpass filters
  • Each channel can be delayed independently up to 10ms
  • Clipping detection and limiting circuits
  • Designed for amplified models
  • Amplifier Does Not need to be retained
  • Retains ability to work with SPDIF digitally controlled systems
  • Includes an amp bypass harness
  • Retains level control of subwoofer through the factory radio
  • Settings adjusted via Bluetooth® in a smart device application (tablet or mobile phone), compatible with both Android and Apple devices
  • Read, write, and store configurations for future recall
  • Password protect feature available in the mobile app
  • Micro-B USB updatable
So since amplifier does not need to be retained, does that mean this thing gets a clean signal from the head unit?

Thank you for entertaining my n00b question

(Original was posted on the wrong forum, https://www.civicx.com/forum/thread...io-of-sport-touring-type-r.52228/#post-845135)



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calonzo

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Did it say it is for the Touring? Can you provide a link to it?
 

josby

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Reading the instructions, it says to totally remove the factory amp from the car. So, it MUST be using the digital SPDIF signal for its input, because that's the only thing coming out of the car's headunit. There's nothing else it could be using.

This is great! The fact that it says it retains the factory subwoofer control is a good sign, because ALL of the controllable elements of the OEM amp like that are sent on the RS485 bus from the headunit. To be able to use the headunit volume control and subwoofer level control, they must be reading and understanding the RS485 signal. That should mean the other things, like bass/treble control, left/right fade, speed-volume compensation, etc. should also be retained.
 
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JT Si

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Reading the instructions, it says to totally remove the factory amp from the car. So, it MUST be using the digital SPDIF signal for its input, because that's the only thing coming out of the car's headunit. There's nothing else it could be using.

This is great! The fact that it says it retains the factory subwoofer control is a good sign, because ALL of the controllable elements of the OEM amp like that are sent on the RS485 bus from the headunit. To be able to use the headunit volume control and subwoofer level control, they must be reading and understanding the RS485 signal. That should mean the other things, like bass/treble control, left/right fade, speed-volume compensation, etc. should also be retained.
That's right. If you look at the diagrams for installation, you just unplug the optical and signal plugs from the OEM Amp/DSP and plug them into this unit. It appears to indicate it's an all-in-one solution to removing the OEM DSP nonsense and installing your own amplifiers with full OEM integration and clean signals.
 
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bernardos70

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My LC-6.1200 is arriving tomorrow and I don't know exactly how I'm going to plug in that many channels into it. I had it figured out with the high level inputs, there being 8 of them. With 6 pre inputs I might just have to get the 4 front door channels in, the center and the sub. That's actually not bad, now that I think of it.
 

JT Si

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My LC-6.1200 is arriving tomorrow and I don't know exactly how I'm going to plug in that many channels into it. I had it figured out with the high level inputs, there being 8 of them. With 6 pre inputs I might just have to get the 4 front door channels in, the center and the sub. That's actually not bad, now that I think of it.
Since you can't retain the OEM amp, you'll be left with no rear channels at all. You could pick up an inexpensive 4 channel amp to hit the rears with.
 
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bernardos70

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I can just replicate the fronts on the rear channels, can't I? I just wouldn't worry about time aligning, I guess. Or do the inexpensive 4 channel amp because the LC-6.1200 kinda broke my piggy bank.
 

JT Si

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I can just replicate the fronts on the rear channels, can't I? I just wouldn't worry about time aligning, I guess. Or do the inexpensive 4 channel amp because the LC-6.1200 kinda broke my piggy bank.
That's exactly why I'm not ready to jump in and buy the interface. I spent maybe $300 on alpine speakers all around, and I don't want to spend another $240 + the cost to amplify 10 channels on top of it yet.

The cheapest I can see getting anything is like 3x Soundstream Stealth ST4.1000D, but even then that's about $420 + $240 = $660 in interface and amp for my $300 of speakers.

If I had known this interface existed before I bought and installed all my speakers I probably would have planned something more extravagant with higher end speakers, knowing I could amplify them properly and get good signals. Now that I modified the speakers I got and can't return them I'm going to stick with them.

It just doesn't make sense to me to spend more than double, at minimum, the cost of the speakers to amplify them. Maybe if someone comes out with a custom fit subwoofer box for the coupe or something to give me a good reason...

The OEM amplifier itself (ignoring the DSP) isn't complete garbage. The spec of the amp chips says they can output a solid 20-30W RMS depending on resistance before THD starts to rise above 0.5%.
 
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bernardos70

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In my case I did get Focal Flax and I'm trying to figure out if I can get a box fabricated for a shallow 10 like the pioneer z line.

My thinking is simple. The six low level inputs will be
2. Front driver side tweeter and woofer;
2. Front passenger tweeter and woofer;
1. Center channel
1. Subwoofer

Then I'll have the amp spit out of its 6 outputs:
2. Front component sets (into the passive crossovers for the speakers).
2. Rear component sets (into two more passive crossovers, duplicating the front components input)
1. Center channel
1. Subwoofer

What I would be giving up here would be the two tiny ghost tweeters in the c-pillar (no great loss), the ability to time align them (moderate loss), and the dolby setting on the head unit. Also will not be able to fade front to back and vice versa (which I'm willing to lose as my fader is dead center anyway), and I can probably do something about it from the amp.

I'm gonna keep an eye out for it. I could still go for a small 4x amp anyway.
 

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In my case I did get Focal Flax and I'm trying to figure out if I can get a box fabricated for a shallow 10 like the pioneer z line.

My thinking is simple. The six low level inputs will be
2. Front driver side tweeter and woofer;
2. Front passenger tweeter and woofer;
1. Center channel
1. Subwoofer

Then I'll have the amp spit out of its 6 outputs:
2. Front component sets (into the passive crossovers for the speakers).
2. Rear component sets (into two more passive crossovers, duplicating the front components input)
1. Center channel
1. Subwoofer

What I would be giving up here would be the two tiny ghost tweeters in the c-pillar (no great loss), the ability to time align them (moderate loss), and the dolby setting on the head unit. Also will not be able to fade front to back and vice versa (which I'm willing to lose as my fader is dead center anyway), and I can probably do something about it from the amp.

I'm gonna keep an eye out for it. I could still go for a small 4x amp anyway.
Are rear speakers and center speaker necessary for your usage? If you don't have people in back seat rear speakers don't really contribute to a good sound stage, and center speaker aren't really necessary for a perfect good stereo sound stage. You can use the first 4 channels on the LC6.1200 to run a full active crossover front stage and bridge channel 5-6 to for [email protected] ohm to your sub. The difference between active and passive crossover front stage is substantial.

As far as the high level inputs, all you really need is front woofers x2, front tweeters x2, and the subwoofer. The center and rear channels don't really have any frequencies that the others don't.

If you are looking into shallow mount subs, look into Sundown SD4 10". It works wonderfully in tiny sealed boxes (0.5-0.75cuft) It's not as thin as most shallow mount subs but this sub have cooling vent on the side instead of at the bottom like the pioneer, so you don't have to leave a 1-1.5" space behind it.
 

vblue42

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Howdy folks. Just stumbled spin this thread and wanted to let everyone know I am currently evaluating the DSPX HN3 in my 2020 Insight. I am working through a few issues but it does work well and sounds amazing. Keep in mind all Honda Touring models appear to have the same system so my results should mirror all of yours. Stay tuned.
 

JT Si

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Howdy folks. Just stumbled spin this thread and wanted to let everyone know I am currently evaluating the DSPX HN3 in my 2020 Insight. I am working through a few issues but it does work well and sounds amazing. Keep in mind all Honda Touring models appear to have the same system so my results should mirror all of yours. Stay tuned.
Can you briefly share what type of issues you've been working through?

What amp(s) are you using to power the system?

What aftermarket speakers do you have?
 
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bernardos70

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Can you briefly share what type of issues you've been working through?

What amp(s) are you using to power the system?

What aftermarket speakers do you have?
This, please. Haha. I went to order and it was out of stock. I'm very curious about these questions as well. Keep us posted, please.

Also just found this video:
It comes with a bass knob? Oh lordy.
 
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JT Si

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This, please. Haha. I went to order and it was our of stock. I'm very curious about these questions as well. Keep us posted, please.

Also just found this video:
It comes with a bass knob? Oh lordy.
I believe ours does not because it integrates the OEM subwoofer level control from the head unit.

If you look at the product page it doesn't show a bass knob in the photos and it doesn't list it in the description. I think the video is outdated or was made before marketing knew there was no bass knob on these
 
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